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• July 28, 2010
• 10:22

  Finding Exclusivity in the Numbers Game

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Every wednesday, there is the wednesday watch article from my hand over at MotoringExposure. This week’s topic is about exclusivity and production numbers, let me know what you think. Click here to read the entire article (a new window will open). Leave a comment with your thoughts. Related posts:Cars and Watches A buyers guide for [...] Related posts:

  1. Cars and Watches
  2. A buyers guide for $2000 watches
  3. Cult Watches Over At MotoringExposure: The Rolex Submariner
• July 25, 2010
• 10:10

  Fratello’s Give Away: Orient Automatic Watch

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  A few months back, I had a chance to review an Orient wrist watch and I was pretty amazed by the quality and accuracy of this Orient watch. Now, Orient USA is giving away one of their automatic watches to a lucky reader of FratelloWatches. Although the watch pictured above is the one Orient is [...] Related posts:

  1. Fratello Give Away: Mario Paci MP XVIII “Querciabella” strap for Panerai
  2. Orient CFH01001B Review: A Lot Of Bang For The Buck?
  3. Hodinkee’s Second Anniversary Give Away(s)!
• July 24, 2010
• 8:55

  Panerai iPhone Application

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Although I don’t have a Panerai in my [modest] collection any more, I still have a lot of love for this brand from Firenze. Therefore, I am happy to announce that Officine Panerai is offering a free iPhone App that allows you to go through their 2010 novelties, lists an overview of all authorized Officine [...] Related posts:

  1. Jaeger-LeCoultre iPhone application ROCKS!
  2. 100 Years of Rolex for iPhone
  3. Killer iPhone App: Uhren Katalog
• July 17, 2010
• 9:54

  What Does It Mean To Be A Cartier Man?

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Earlier this year, Cartier introduced a new watch for men, Calibre de Cartier. A few years ago, Cartier introduced the Santos 100 to fulfil the demand for a more masculine watch, the Calibre de Cartier is their next-gen masculine watch with in-house movement. And perhaps this new model does the trick even better! I tried [...] Related posts:

  1. Cartier: Jewellery or Haute Horlogerie?
  2. Cartier Santos
  3. The king of bling got sued
• 1:15

  And The Winner Of The Mario Paci MP XVIII Is…..

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  The winner of the Mario Paci MP XVIII (sponsored by TC Straps) is Luigi G from Canada. Congratulations with your new strap! A cappuccino coloured strap (as you wished for) is coming your way. Another great contest for Panerai lovers is coming up, thanks to Elliot of ViaPaneristi/TC Straps. Wait and see… Related posts:Fratello Give [...] Related posts:

  1. Fratello Give Away: Mario Paci MP XVIII “Querciabella” strap for Panerai
  2. Camille Fournet via TCStraps
  3. Watchramblings on a saturday
• July 15, 2010
• 8:46

  Is Your Rolex Exclusive Enough For You? Read It At Motoring Exposure!

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Watch customizations are very popular, especially amongst wearers of the Crown of watches, Rolex. Project X Designs creates such customizations, available from ‘stock’, on request and several limited editions (restricted to 24 per model) that you can choose from. Also, you can bring your own watch for a DLC job and other customizations. For now, [...] Related posts:

  1. A Decent Watch Under 1000 USD, Check Motoring Exposure!
  2. Grönefeld GMT06 Tourbillon Minute Repeater is the Wednesday Watch at Motoring Exposure
  3. Project X Designs introduces Rolex Submariner PXD SS1
• July 11, 2010
• 16:03

  The Chuck Maddox Homage Watch : Omega Seamaster Pro Chrono Diver Titanium

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  “This is not an elegant dress chronograph, this is a bruiser of a tool watch and likely will not fit under anyone’s shirt cuff unless you have a wrist the size of Michael Jackson’s and are wearing Arnold Schwartzenegger’s shirt.” – Chuck Maddox (27th of May, 2003) Photograph by Chuck Maddox A few weeks ago [...] Related posts:

  1. A conversation with Chuck Maddox, Part 2
  2. Chuck Maddox
  3. A conversation with Chuck Maddox, Part 1
• July 10, 2010
• 15:00

  Watch Magazine And Books

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  When the World Cup final is over and the weather allows you to go and visit the beach, make sure to bring the latest copy of WATCH magazine. It is in Dutch and only available in The Netherlands and Belgium. So, if you are in either of these countries, go and check-out the latest copy [...] Related posts:

  1. Heuer Monaco show-off
  2. BaselWorld 2009: TAG Heuer Monaco
  3. Steve McQueen’s Rolex 5512 on Antiquorum
• July 07, 2010
• 15:00

  MB&F Reveals The Horological Machine No.4 – The Thunderbolt

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Today is the day. Max Büsser (friend of the show) introducing his Horological Machine Numero 4, the Thunderbolt. My guess is that this will be the most bizarre time piece you have ever seen. Even if you can’t imagine yourself wearing a watch like this if you had the resources for it, you’ll have to [...] Related posts:

  1. Pre-SIHH 2009 news from Max Büsser: Horological Machine 2 Ceramic
  2. MB&F’s Horological Machine No2-SV (Sapphire Vision)
  3. Maximilian Büsser and Friends
• 0:15

  Omega Hour Vision For Little Money

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Since Omega started making in-house movements (again), you could say that they stepped up a bit on the horological ladder. Their Hour Vision is a very interesting watch, not only because the caliber 8500 movement, but also because of the classic case design that resembles their 1960s models. Furthermore, their Hour Vision has this nice [...] Related posts:

  1. Omega Hour Vision
  2. Review Omega Seamaster Professional PloProf 1200m
  3. Omega Speedmaster Professional 3570.40
• July 04, 2010
• 2:20

  Fratello Give Away: Mario Paci MP XVIII “Querciabella” strap for Panerai

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Fratello has some nice give aways coming up, and this Mario Paci MP XVIII strap is one of them! Together with TC Straps and ViaPaneristi, long time friends of FratelloWatches, I can offer you this great give away for your Panerai time piece. Leave a comment with your name and a valid e-mail address, and [...] Related posts:

  1. And The Winner Of The Mario Paci MP XVIII Is…..
  2. Custom IWC Ingenieur strap by Jacob
  3. Speedmaster with Velcro strap
• June 28, 2010
• 14:25

  BREAKING NEWS: NICOLAS HAYEK PASSED AWAY

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Swatch Group Press Release: “Biel/Bienne, 28 June 2010 – With deep sadness and regret we inform you that Mr. Nicolas G. Hayek, Chairman and Delegate of the Board of Directors of The Swatch Group Ltd. unexpectedly passed away today due to heart failure during work at his beloved Swatch Group. Mr. Nicolas G. Hayek’s greatest [...] Related posts:

  1. Bruno Meier is the new CEO of Rolex
  2. Omega will be Olympic again.
  3. ETA has to deliver movements
• June 25, 2010
• 1:55

  Nautilus Meets Its Natural Environment

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Watch journalist and friend of the show, Kristian Haagen, made a few great photographs of one of my favourite watches, the Patek Philippe Nautilus. His version, the chronograph, is the 40.5mm ref.5980/1A and uses an in-house caliber CH 28-520 C movement. I mention in-house, because for a long time, Patek Philippe was relying on chronograph [...] Related posts:

  1. Nautilus 30
  2. You never actually own a Patek Philippe
  3. Begin your own tradition
• June 24, 2010
• 8:02

  Thomas Prescher: The Ultimate Goal Is To Create Excitement!

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Thomas Prescher did create excitement amongst watch collectors, he created a mechanical timepiece that is absolutely unique. A triple-axis tourbillon movement in a wrist watch. The Triple Axis Tourbillon Regulator, as the watch is being named, is again one of these great inventions of Thomas Prescher, since he started working for himself in 2002 and [...] Related posts:

  1. Thomas Prescher: Handcrafted Time
  2. Thomas Prescher’s Handcrafted Time
  3. Greubel Forsey’s Private Room in Hong Kong
• June 19, 2010
• 10:37

  Ebel 1911 BTR Chronograph: Interesting But Rarely Seen

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  When I just started out liking and looking at (serious) mechanical watches, Ebel was one of the brands that I really liked. Especially their chronograph with Zenith El Primero movement was particularly interesting, easy to recognize as these models have a snap-on case back. Over the years, the movements changed (from Zenith to Ebel’s in-house [...] Related posts:

  1. Ebel 1911 BTR
  2. Vintage Zenith El Primero Chronograph: Aloha!
  3. Ebel never gets much attention
• June 17, 2010
• 12:50

  The Real Source Of Inspiration For The Vintage IWC Ingenieur

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  About two weeks ago, I spoke to Dimer (friend of the show and eCommerce Manager at AceJewelers) and he showed me his recently acquired IWC Ingenieur from their Vintage collection (as shown below). Since I have a weak spot for the Ingenieur series, I tried this Vintage Collection Ingenieur a couple of times already and [...] Related posts:

  1. IWC Ingenieur
  2. IWC Ingenieur Mission Earth Edition Adventure Ecology IW3236
  3. Ingenieur 3227: the score
• 9:44

  Hamilton Reaches Out To Women with Three Great Automatic Watches for 2010

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  This year Hamilton is releasing some excellent watches for women. These are well designed, high grade, mechanical timepieces that bring to women the value and vintage-like, classic style that is at the base of the company’s success. There are many mechanical watches for ladies to choose from in more expensive price brackets. This is not [...] Related posts:

  1. Only one watch
  2. Robert Lighton’s great bargains!
  3. BaselWorld 2010: Maurice Lacroix’s Novelties Revealed
• June 13, 2010
• 15:17

  A Timeless Tale Report

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  A few weeks ago, I reported about the Timeless Tale expo over at the Rolex boutique in Berlin (as part of the Wempe emporium). Some friends of the Dutch Rolex Forum went to Berlin to see the most important watches in the history of Rolex. Rolex Forum regular sBmRnR published their report in this thread, [...] Related posts:

  1. A Timeless Tale by Rolex in Berlin
  2. Rolex Milgauss, proven unpopular?
  3. Tokyo Tour Report
• June 12, 2010
• 9:16

  Hodinkee’s Second Anniversary Give Away(s)!

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Hodinkee is celebrating their 2nd anniversary, big time! Even Stephen Hallock, President of MB&F North America, chips in with a piece from his own collection, a Tissot Idea 2001. This Tissot was introduced in 1971 and although it looks kinda ..uuh.. special, it is a vintage timepiece that will not look bad in your collection. [...] Related posts:

  1. A Decent Watch Under 1000 USD, Check Motoring Exposure!
  2. Fratello Give Away: Mario Paci MP XVIII “Querciabella” strap for Panerai
  3. Swatch Forum
• June 08, 2010
• 8:36

  AP 15300 vs 15202 continued…

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  About a year ago, I wrote that the Royal Oak Date ref.15300 could be more interesting than the famous Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Ref.15202 (click here for the article). Not long after that article, I decided to pull the trigger on Royal Oak Date. On the 24th of December 2009, I did a trade-up to the [...] Related posts:

  1. AP Royal Oak: 15300 more interesting than the 15202 (a.k.a Jumbo)?
  2. Michael’s Royal Oak 15300
  3. Just before year-end, I bought this….
• June 06, 2010
• 6:05

  Kurt Klaus at Ace Jewelers’s IWC corner

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  IWC’s legendary master watchmaker Kurt Klaus was over for a visit at Ace Jewelers in Amsterdam. Alon Ben-Jospeh, CEO of Ace Jewelers, did an interview with Kurt Klaus for all IWC fans over at the IWC forum of WatchUseek and captured it on video. A real treat for both all IWC fans and Ace Jewelers, [...] Related posts:

  1. IWC Show at Ace Jewelers in Amsterdam
  2. Easy way to win a RED8 watch by Christian Bedat !
  3. Ace Jewelers goes Shopping Cart
• May 15, 2010
• 15:11

  Greubel Forsey’s Private Room in Hong Kong

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Greubel Forsey is renowned for their impressive tourbillon timepieces, especially the Quadruple Tourbillon made a huge impression last year. This timepiece was even honoured as the ‘Best Complicated Watch’ during the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Asia on the 25th of September in 2009, hosted in Singapore. Now, Greubel Forsey opened a dedicated ‘private room’ for their timepieces [...] Related posts:

  1. Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2009
  2. Hong Kong watch & clock fair
  3. ART HK 09: Glashütte Original’s Museum Pieces in Hong Kong
• May 11, 2010
• 13:45

  A Timeless Tale by Rolex in Berlin

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Between the 5th of June and the 2nd of July 2010, the (Europe’s very first) Rolex boutique in Berlin is showcasing their most important or better yet, meaningful watches  of their 105 years of existence. The watches are chronologically displayed starting with their oldest timepiece dating 1905 and includes their first Oyster watches, produced in [...] Related posts:

  1. Tudor TNight in Berlin
  2. Christie’s: Rolex Deep Sea Jacques Piccard edition fetches almost 40.000 USD
  3. Grab the former Rolex Sea-Dwellers while you can!
• May 06, 2010
• 14:15

  Sea-Dweller Back From Rolex Service!

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  After I graduated in 2002, I bought this Rolex Sea-Dweller from my first (few) salaries. A used 1997 model with tritium dial (boy, did I want the Super Luminova model back then) with just minor scratches from every day use by its previous owner. In December 2007, I decided this watch needed a complete overhaul [...] Related posts:

  1. Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea
  2. A 180,000.00 USD Rolex Double Red Sea Dweller ref.1665 from 1967
  3. Rolex GTG and the SAHH 2010 Report
• May 05, 2010
• 10:46

  The Scuderia Ferrari One by Cabestan

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Cabestan proudly announces a partnership with Ferrari to celebrate the oldest and still existing Formula 1 racing team in the world, Scuderia Ferrari. With their debut in Formula 1 in 1950 (Grandprix of Italy), the Scuderia Ferrari team is active in Formula 1 for 60 years now. The Scuderia Ferrari One time piece by Cabestan [...] Related posts:

  1. Ferrari 250 TR
  2. A Limited Edition Strap
  3. Italians choose Italians
• 9:31

  Bremont over at MotoringExposure

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Bremont is becoming one of my favorite English brands at this moment. I have written about Bremont before, covering their Martin Baker project and Bremont watches in general.  Their collection of chronographs is just stunning and blows away the direct competition without having the typical ‘we are better than the rest’ attitude. Today is Wednesday [...] Related posts:

  1. Cult Watches Over At MotoringExposure: The Rolex Submariner
  2. Marvin Watches over at MotoringExposure
  3. Bremont MB1 (Martin-Baker project)
• April 27, 2010
• 11:37

  The Palace by Jean Dunand – The Best of BaselWorld 2010

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Last year in Basel, during the BaselWorld 2009 show, I was introduced to Jean Dunand by my friend Frank (Monochrome), Suryia Hill (Sparkle) and Ian Skellern. Truth to be told, I had not taken the time to read about Jean Dunand time pieces and boy did I regret that. Luckily, Thierry Oulevay (owner of Jean [...] Related posts:

  1. Jean Dunand Tourbillon Orbital Confucius
  2. BaselWorld 2010: Maurice Lacroix’s Novelties Revealed
  3. BaselWorld 2010: Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moonphase Complication
• April 25, 2010
• 10:04

  How to move forwards while looking backwards?

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Olivier Muller over at The Watch Lounge did some research about innovation in the watch industry and explains how brands move forwards while looking backwards. Olivier analyzes whether some of the brands are more or less obliged to look backwards while others are benefiting from this. What to think about new brands (like Romain Jérôme) [...] Related posts:

  1. The Financial Crisis didn’t hit Romain Jerome
  2. Watch Lounge magazine #2
  3. 15300ST on a custom strap
• April 21, 2010
• 9:10

  Marvin Watches over at MotoringExposure

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  As every wednesday, it is Wednesday Watch over at MotoringExposure. Today it is time to put Marvin Watch in the spotlight! This brand, over 150 years old, has recently been re-invented and the on-line promotion and presence is unbelievable. This brand knows how to put themselves back on the horological map again. Reasonable priced (mechanical) time [...] Related posts:

  1. Cult Watches Over At MotoringExposure: The Rolex Submariner
  2. Cars and Watches
  3. MotoringExposure: Introducing the Speedmaster
• April 16, 2010
• 9:34

  What are you wearing today?

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Almost all watch forums seems to have these weekly or even daily threads about what’s on your wrist today. Well, in my case it is quite easy, the vintage Submariner I recently got is hard to beat on a sunny day like this Our friends over at the German Rolex Forum (Das Rolex Forum) [...] Related posts:

  1. Which watch will you be wearing on x-mas?
  2. Daytona Ausverkauf
  3. Roland Garros 2009: Roger Federer and his Rolex Yacht-Master II
• April 14, 2010
• 14:57

  Tudor Heritage 1970 is the Wednesday Watch @motoringexposure

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  One of the eye catchers of BaselWorld 2010 is the Tudor Heritage Chrono and not without a reason. Tudor really succeeded in creating a fine timepiece that comes very close to the original 1970 version and still is very up-to-date and wearable. The waiting lists at the Tudor / Rolex dealers must be huge by [...] Related posts:

  1. ETA has to deliver movements
  2. Tudor TNight in Berlin
  3. Watch Industry Forum
• April 11, 2010
• 9:03

  The Rolex GMT-Master 1675

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  One of my favorite Rolex watches is the GMT-Master. With the introduction of the 116710LN and 116713LN models, I feel that the classic GMT-Master has been phased out by Rolex. The new updated model with its bulky lugs and ceramic bezel surely is a nice timepiece and probably suits all modern requirements, but it cleary [...] Related posts:

  1. Ceramic Bezel close-up of the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 116710LN
  2. Some Rolex Yacht-Master History
  3. Haven’t Seen This One Before: Rolex GMT-Master DLC
• April 03, 2010
• 4:50

  Glycine introduces the Airman Base 22 – Back to the original 1953 Airman

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Glycine (founded in 1914) introduced a multiple time zone watch in 1953, the Glycine Airman. These watches were meant to be for travellers and pilots that needed a watch that enabled them to read two different time zones. Through all these years, the Airman watch was never absent from the Glycine collection, but it changed [...] Related posts:

  1. Glycine Airman SST 06 Re-edition
  2. Stowa Airman
  3. Project X Designs introduces Rolex Submariner PXD SS1
• March 31, 2010
• 14:27

  A 180,000.00 USD Rolex Double Red Sea Dweller ref.1665 from 1967

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  This Sea-Dweller ref.1665 wasn’t owned by Steve McQueen and neither did James Bond wear it during one of his missions. According to the seller of this 180,000 USD Sea-Dweller from 1967,  it is: “The first version of the Double Red Sea Dweller was produced in 1967. It is said that approximately 50 to 100 early versions [...] Related posts:

  1. Double Red Sea-Dweller
  2. Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea
  3. Double Eagle
• March 29, 2010
• 8:46

  Wood Piano Black and Orange Watch Box

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  As soon as you buy (or collect) a few nice timepieces, make sure to store them safely to protect them for dust, moisture, children, hungry pets etc. The best way to store your watches would be in a safe, so make sure you pick a watch box that will fit your safe or the safe [...] Related posts:

  1. Leather One Watch Winder
  2. Holiday season is burglary season
  3. Great value watch winder
• March 24, 2010
• 15:14

  Wednesday Watch: The new Rolex Explorer explained

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Today would be the birthday of Steve McQueen (24th of March), him being an avid Rolex wearer, I though it might be a good day to write about one of the new introductions based on an all time classic sports watch. The Rolex Explorer. “Perhaps the classic Rolex sports watch of all times is the Explorer [...] Related posts:

  1. BaselWorld 2010 Novelties
  2. Rolex Explorer Opinion Girl
  3. Explorer
• 6:08

  Bulova Accutron Spaceview re-introduced during BaselWorld 2010

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  In 1960, Bulova introduced the Accutron Spaceview 214 wristwatch. This battery operated non-quartz watch, was considered to be the most accurate timepiece available in those days. Using a tuning fork, this watch hummed all day and at night, it was impossible to sleep when you left this watch on the drawer next to your bed. [...] Related posts:

  1. Bulova Accutron Forum
  2. Bulova Accutrons
  3. BaselWorld 2010: Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moonphase Complication
• March 21, 2010
• 5:00

  Maîtres du Temps Chapter One Round

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  This morning, I went to Maîtres du Temps to check-out and see their Chapter One Round timepiece. This master piece has been created by Peter Speake-Marin and Christophe Claret. I also have a lot of respect for Steven Holtzman, who has been working very hard to combine the efforts of the best master watch makers [...] Related posts:

  1. Maitres du Temps, Chapter One.
  2. The Sophisticated Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Moon
  3. SIHH 2009 round up
• 2:49

  BaselWorld Day 3 In Pictures

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Yesterday we had our third day in Basel. Interesting meetings with Chronoswiss (more coverage later on) and a few of the Horomundi people. We rounded up with a nice diner with Kees Engelbarts (Cornelius & Cie), Bart and Tim Grönefeld, Ben (Hodinkee), Frank (Monochrome), Gerard (Horloge.com) and few others. Click here to see a few pictures [...] Related posts:

  1. BaselWorld 2010: 12 Faces of Time: Book Signings with Watchmakers
  2. 12 Faces of Time: Horological Virtuosos
  3. Book Review: 12 Faces of Time by Elizabeth Doerr & Ralf Baumgarten
• March 20, 2010
• 3:17

  BaselWorld Day 2 Pictorial

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Day 2 in pictures. I was able to see some novelties over at Bremont, Linde Werdelin, Ikepod (Yes! Alive and Kicking!), Ateliers DeMonaco and lots of others. The day ended with a very nice introduction / cocktail of the new Maurice Lacroix watches. This event was held in Bar Rouge of the Ramada hotel in [...] Related posts:

  1. BaselWorld 2010 Day 1 Pictorial
  2. BaselWorld 2010: Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moonphase Complication
  3. BaselWorld 2009: Linde Werdelin Sneak Preview
• March 19, 2010
• 2:24

  BaselWorld 2010 Day 1 Pictorial

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  BaselWorld day 1 in pictures, to be seen in my forum over at Watch-U-Seek! Click here to have a look! Patek Philippe’s line-up of their magnificent movements! I had to push some Italian looking mobsters to the side (giving me the evil eye) to get this picture, be proud of me. Very proud. Related posts:BaselWorld Day [...] Related posts:

  1. BaselWorld Day 2 Pictorial
  2. BaselWorld 2010 Novelties
  3. BaselWorld 2010!
• March 18, 2010
• 7:22

  BaselWorld 2010 Novelties

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  First day BaselWorld and it rocks. Where everybody was waiting for (or at least the majority) has become reality, a new Rolex Explorer. This 39mm is a beauty! Sorry for the bad picture (of lot of them will follow), but in most cases I need to shoot through the display. This ref.214270 Explorer features a caliber [...] Related posts:

  1. BaselWorld 2010: Maurice Lacroix’s Novelties Revealed
  2. BaselWorld 2010!
  3. BaselWorld 2010 Day 1 Pictorial
• March 17, 2010
• 3:47

  BaselWorld 2010!

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Today, it is the press day for BaselWorld 2010. However, tomorrow the doors are opening for everyone who’d like to attend the biggest watch expo in the world. I will be there, together with Ernie Romers of WatchUseek and Frank of Monochrome. Soon, we will know if there will be a new Rolex Explorer or a [...] Related posts:

  1. BaselWorld 2010 Novelties
  2. BaselWorld 2010 Day 1 Pictorial
  3. BaselWorld 2009: Rolex News
• March 16, 2010
• 15:43

  IWC Show at Ace & Dik in Amsterdam

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com
  Last week, on the 8th of March, I attended the IWC show at Ace & Dik (AceJewelers.com) in Amsterdam. I was particularly interested in the new Portuguese with the dial of the red gold version and – of course – the new IWC Yacht-Club. One of the most interesting timepieces was the IWC Portuguese Grande Complication, [...] Related posts:

  1. IWC Show at Ace Jewelers in Amsterdam
  2. IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar by Bucherer
  3. As promised.
• March 14, 2010
• 15:53

  A Birthday Rolex Submariner 1680

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  A timepiece that has been produced in your year of birth, seems to be an all-time favourite wish for many watch collectors. I’ll have to admit that I once almost pulled the trigger on a Speedmaster Professional from my year of birth (1977). However, after a phone call to the seller in France to discuss last details, it seemed that this watch was not made in 1977. One of the inscriptions on the inside of the case back clearly stated that this watch was produced in 1978. Bummer.

  I can have more luck with a Rolex from my year of birth, however, the prices of these vintage beauties are becoming annoying. Just a few days ago, I noticed that ‘friend of the show’ Henrik over at SubGMT has a Rolex Submariner ref.1680 for sale, produced ‘around’ 1977. The ‘around’ bothers me of course, but I assume this can be sorted out.

  

  According to the website SubGMT, everything about this watch is original except for the bezel inlay. The pearl of the inlay looks indeed more white than the hour markers or hands. I couldn’t care less to be honest.

  

  More important to me are the polished edges on the lugs and their sharpness. The folded ref.9315 is original as well, and looks fine as far as I can see on these pictures. These old folded bracelets will make people hear you coming from 200 meters distance (instead of the 50 meters with new bracelets ; – ) ). All part of the charms of owning a superb vintage Rolex.

  Although its price of 4650 Euro seems to be fair, in my opinion it is still a lot of money for a watch of which its successors are more interesting quality wise. The movement is a Rolex caliber 1570 and can also be found in other Rolex model from that era. It wasn’t until the ref.16800 Submariner until it was upgraded with a caliber 3035 movement. Although both these calibers are excellent time keepers, I prefer the newer caliber 3135 as it can be found in the later sapphire crystal Submariners (16610) and Sea-Dwellers (16600). This movement has a nicely finished double bridge and a higher beats per hour rate.

  

  The folded bracelet I mentioned before, the caliber 1570 movement, the lack of box and papers.. perhaps all reasons that would justify a new sports Rolex for the same kind of money. However, one can’t deny the sophisticated look and feel of a vintage Rolex Submariner, it just breathes history and ‘cult watch’. And in comparison to the Double Red Sea-Dwellers, Great White, Red Submariners, Cream Dial Explorer, Freccione Explorers (and so on), the price of this nice and (almost) original ref.1680 Submariner is very reasonable. If it is still for sale around my birthday (13th of April), I might pull the trigger… because in the end, money back guaranteed with these vintage Rolexes.

  Photos courtesy of SubGMT

  Related posts:

  1. Cult Watches Over At MotoringExposure: The Rolex Submariner
  2. A temporarily swap: Rolex Submariner 16613
  3. Rolex Submariner 116613 versus 16613

• 11:53

  The Audemars Piguet Of The Fashion Industry: Wallstreet Kingdom

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  People who love (luxury) watches will also be able to appreciate the other finer things of life. One of these finer things is – of course -  fashion and in this case, shirts. Just recently, I came in touch with Wallstreet Kingdom shirts. The owner of Wallstreet Kingdom is also a big fan of haute horlogerie and shares his fashion philosophy with us on his website.

  

  “Our fashion objects are exclusively made. Sartorial tradition and real craftsmanship, as well as the best fabrics and handmade details epitomize what real luxury should be all about: sophisticated, stylish and ready to wear. Everyday. Every time. Everywhere. “We want to be the Audemars Piguet of the fashion industry”, says Christian Adriaanse. “Tradition, excellence and daring. Designing iconic objects. Just like them. Their first Royal Oak watch was unveiled in 1972 – my year of birth – it looks as if it was designed yesterday. Fabulous”.

  

  Designer Christian Adriaanse only uses the very best materials to create these Stripes of Pride shirts, including mother of pearl for its buttons. The Stripes of Pride collection is there to celebrate your successes, achievements and – in short -  life. No holding back because the economy/business goes slow. Just like Audemars Piguet and Gérald Genta did in 1972, introducing a stainless steel luxury sports watch, costing as much as a 18ct gold Patek Philippe Calatrava watch. Because they could do so, by showing their tradition and excellence in everything they do, including in their stainless steel sports watch.

  

  The designer of Wallstreet Kingdom shirts is also an admirerer of haute horlogerie and particularly of Audemars Piguet. As he discussed with me, the red-white Stripes of Pride shirt will perfectly match a Royal Oak ref.15202ST and the blue-white shirt will go well with an Offshore Navy. Just so you know.

  Related posts:

  1. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak: Nick Faldo
  2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Montauk: Honoring a highway
  3. Audemars Piguet Rubber Clad

• March 13, 2010
• 10:25

  Blancier Desert Wolf ‘Bullhead’

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Normally, my coverage on quartz driven watches is second to none, however, I’ll make an exception for this special timepiece. The Blancier Desert Wolf is dedicated to the Dutch troops in Uruzgan.

  

  The watch case of the Desert Wolf has a 45 diameter and a hard PVD finish. The buckle of the strap also has this PVD finish. As you can see, the dial of the Blancier Desert Wolf is marked with the coordinates of the Dutch Uruzgan camp. The orange markers and hands refer to the Dutch heritage.

  The crown and chronograph pushers are located on the 12 o’clock position of the watch, which makes it a ‘bullhead’ watch. Something we’ve seen in the past on Omega and Seiko watches (and a few more).  Other specifications of this watch are:

  • water resistant to 100 meters (10ATM)
  • sapphire crystal (double side anti-reflective coating)
  • 1 year (limited) warranty
  • price tag of 345 Euro, of which 10 Euro will go to the Anjerkinderen fund (kids of veterans)

  More information and photographs can be found at www.blancier.eu

  Related posts:

  1. Blancier: Watchmaker for a Weekend
  2. BlumLux Louie Quattro
  3. Hysek X-Ray Perpertual Calendar

• March 10, 2010
• 14:36

  BaselWorld 2010: 12 Faces of Time: Book Signings with Watchmakers

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Already ordered your copy of 12 Faces of Time?

  

  Either if you did or are planning to, make sure to visit the book signing sessions in BaselWorld!

  When: Saturday, March 20 and Sunday, March 21 at 14 h / 2:00 pm

  Where: Messeplatz, directly in front of Hall 1.0, in the book hut run by Watchprint

  Who: Elizabeth Doerr (author), Ralf Baumgarten (photographer), 11 of the watchmakers portrayed in the book: Philippe Dufour, Vianney Halter, Felix Baumgartner, Thomas Prescher, Volker Vyskocil, Paul Gerber, Beat Haldimann, Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, Kari Voutilainen, Roger Smith, and François-Paul Journe.

  Related posts:

  1. 12 Faces of Time: Horological Virtuosos
  2. Book Review: 12 Faces of Time by Elizabeth Doerr & Ralf Baumgarten
  3. Thomas Prescher: Handcrafted Time

• 14:30

  Rolex GTG and the SAHH 2010 Report

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Last weekend was one with a busy watch schedule. My wife is so happy with me

  Friday evening, I attended a Rolex get-together, arranged by authorized Rolex dealer Schaap ~ Citroen. On Saturday I attended the SAHH (Salon Amsterdam de la Haute Horlogerie) to look at all the novelties from Audemars Piguet, Baume et Mercier, Cartier, IWC, Jeager-LeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget, Richard Mille and Roger Dubuis. The SAHH event was hosted by Gassan Diamonds in Amsterdam. And on Sunday, we had our Horloges & Espresso meeting with a bunch of watch nuts in The Hague, organized every first Sunday of the month.

  To start with the first, the Schaap ~ Citroen @Home programme, organized a get-together for a few Rolex enthusiasts from The Netherlands. Together with Ronny Wooter (former auctioneer at Sotheby’s) and a team of Schaap ~ Citroen, we received a nice presentation on their stores, vision on selling and of course, Rolex watches. Some great insights on sales, customers and Rolex were shared with us during the evening. A few of these insights on Rolex watches are:

  • Rolex does not use laser engraved sapphire green crystals for the Milgauss;
  • The laser engraved ‘S’ will disappear from the replacement sapphire crystals that are being used when a watch is being serviced;
  • The laser engraved Rolex logo is ALWAYS on 6 o’clock, it is done after the crystal has been put on the timepiece.

  Besides the presentation of current Rolex models, there was enough time to discuss vintage timepieces as well. Valuation, service and availability aspects were discussed through-out all the evening. Below you’ll find a few shots that Remco and sBmRnR made during the evening, just to give you an impression of this wonderful event:

  

  

  

  

  

  

  I would like to thank Schaap ~ Citroen and forum members Harald and MarkD for initiating and hosting this great event!

  On Saturday the 6^th of March, the SAHH was presented in Amsterdam, hosted by Gassan. The two watches that impressed me most were the Cartier Calibre (4900 Euro) with in-house movement and the AP Royal Oak Equation of Time (40-50K Euro). The Cartier has a useable size, perfect finish on dial and case and a movement developed by Cartier. The dial of this watch has all the nice details you are used from Cartier. The only downside is the shape of the lugs in my opinion. The pointy and bended lugs will stick in your wrist, especially when you have large wrists/arms.

  The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Equation of Time simply rocks the bomb. The size of the watch was slightly bigger than my Jumbo (15202) or the ref.15300, but still within proportions and less present than the Offshore models. The subtle leap-year indicator, sun-rise, sun-set and equation of time indicators in addition to its moon phase disc are in no-way misplaced or creating a dial that could be considered too busy. I tried on the gold version, but there will be a stainless steel version as well.

  A brand that surprised me in a more negative way was Richard Mille. I was very interested in Richard Mille’s timepieces but I simply can’t give them a place. Technically very interesting, innovative techniques and materials, but design wise not very interesting in my opinion. The tourbillon was nice to look at, but I must say that I have seen enough tourbillons last year.

  The weekend ended with our monthly Horloges & Espresso meeting in The Hague, the 15th edition if I am not mistaken Just to be in time to visit the IWC Show at Ace & Dik in Amsterdam the next day. A report will follow soon!

  Related posts:

  1. Watch Shopping in The Hague
  2. Rolex of H.R.H. Prince Bernhard for auction
  3. Dutch Rolex GTG

• March 03, 2010
• 9:01

  Cult Watches Over At MotoringExposure: The Rolex Submariner

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Watches are labeled “cult” when they have a certain history or status amongst collectors. Last week, MotoringExposure covered the Omega Speedmaster a.k.a Moonwatch as being a cult watch. This week, we decided to grab another cult watch and this is perhaps the most recognized cult watch of all: The Rolex Submariner.

  Photo courtesy of SubGMT.com

  Click here for my weekly Wednesday Watch article at MotoringExposure.

  Related posts:

  1. MotoringExposure: Introducing the Speedmaster
  2. A Birthday Rolex Submariner 1680
  3. Cars and Watches

• March 01, 2010
• 14:48

  Haven’t Seen This One Before: Rolex GMT-Master DLC

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  I haven’t seen this one before, a DLC Rolex GMT-Master. This neo-vintage Rolex GMT-Master with tritium dial has been treated with the famous Diamond Like Carbon coating by Time and Gems.

  

  The coating on this timepiece is a mixture of polished and brushed parts, which is a bit different from the regular ref.16700 and ref.16710 models. The center links have been polished, as well as the lugs of the watch case. The anthracite colour on the brushed parts is a bit darker than the coating colour on the polished parts, giving it a bit of room to play with the light.

  

  The cool thing about the GMT-Master in DLC edition is that the red GMT-hand stands out. I have seen the newer GMT-Master version (ref.116710LN) in a DLC edition somewhere else, but the green hand didn’t do as much magic as this red hand does in my humble opinion.

  

  Time and Gems did a nice job on creating a militarized version of the well respected GMT watch by Rolex. What you can’t see on the pictures is the case back, which has been kept in stainless steel. The price tag of 6500 USD (or approx. 4800 Euro) is quite a bit away from the original price of a similar GMT-Master in stainless steel, but the DLC process is still a costly operation.

  They have more DLC’ed Rolex models for sale on-line, like a Milgauss GV ref.116400 and a Sea-Dweller ref.16600 and more. I am thinking out loud how a Rolex Date-Just 116200 or a Rolex Yacht-Master 16622 would look like with a DLC coating.

  Thanks to Jeff from Time and Gems for the use of their pictures.

  Related posts:

  1. Some Rolex Yacht-Master History
  2. Ceramic Bezel close-up of the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 116710LN
  3. Rolex Milgauss DLC

• February 28, 2010
• 6:35

  The Grand Seiko Collection – Why I Did Not Include Them (Several Times)

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  When I think of Seiko, I think of all the people who couldn’t care less about watches and bought a Seiko just because of that. It tells time, and it does it cheap. Now, I know that this is not true in all cases. There are plenty of nice Seikos that I really like, but I (almost) never include them in articles. Actually, last few weeks I got a few mails (including hate-mails) from people wondering why I didn’t include Seiko watches in my buying guide articles over at Motoring Exposure (click here for the articles).

  Picture by Stefan /  Molle Watch

  My long time blog friend (a.k.a The Seiko Champion) Harry Bishop also wondered why I didn’t include a Seiko timepiece in my 1000 – 2000 USD buying guide article in his most recent blog post. What he actually writes, is the following:

  “I would challenge those who exclude Asian (and other) high-end well known brands of watch makers from their lists. The perception of European dominance in luxury watches is actually just an example of successful marketing … it’s not true, and it’s a relatively recent perspective. Other countries including the US used to be considered the premier manufacturers of luxury watches, but that changed last century. Some of this changed for real, other parts of it just changed in belief.

  I’m not talking about new Chinese firms with little heritage. I’m talking about something like a Grand Seiko, which has the heritage, quality, accuracy, and aesthetics to more than hold it’s head up high in this company. I guess this post earns me my “Seiko Champion” moniker.”

  Why not turn it around? I believe this is the result of unsuccessful marketing by Seiko (and other Asian companies) that made me not include a Grand Seiko in one of my articles. I do not recall seeing a Seiko Spring Drive or (other) Grand Seiko model in a jeweller shop in The Netherlands, other than at Van Koningsbruggen in Zoetermeer (a city near The Hague). This is the only shop I actually saw one and held one in my hands. I’ve never seen them anywhere else in The Netherlands or in another European country. This, and this only, is the reason that I do not include Grand Seiko (Spring Drive) watches in my buyer’s guide articles or cover them at all here at Fratellowatches. I believe I would include them if they were widely available and when I had some hands-on experience with these watches. Because honestly, some of them just look marvellous!

  Now, I have been looking around for Grand Seikos on the web, looked into dedicated Seiko forums at WatchUseek and TimeZone but one thing has become clear.. I am not the only one wondering where to get these Grand Seiko timepieces. Vintages models are the easiest to get here in The Netherlands. I have seen several on eBay listing for a few hundred dollars to a few thousand dollars but old-fashioned as I am, before spending over a 1000 USD on a timepiece, I would love to hold one in my hands and try one first.

  One of the few nice ones I noticed is this one:

  

  

  I guess I will keep following these eBay items for a while, just to get an idea about value and availability. As for the new models, where do I need to go? Tell me.

  Related posts:

  1. Ofcourse, the Grand Seiko…
  2. Seiko GMT
  3. Seiko reference page

• February 27, 2010
• 2:43

  MotoringExposure: Introducing the Speedmaster

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  I thought it might be a good plan to introduce one of the most famous cult watches to this group of car lovers over at MotoringExposure.com. Every week, I try to feed them with interesting horological facts and articles and it took actually quite long (to my taste) to talk about one of my favorites, the Omega Speedmaster Professional.

  

  Probably nothing much inside you didn’t already know about the Moonwatch, but you never know of course Click here for my article at MotoringExposure.

  Related posts:

  1. Cult Watches Over At MotoringExposure: The Rolex Submariner
  2. Omega Speedmaster 125: The first automatic winding chronometer chronograph
  3. Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonphase

• February 24, 2010
• 3:46

  Book Review: 12 Faces of Time by Elizabeth Doerr Ralf Baumgarten

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  This is not only a book about watches. This is a book about the faces behind the watches made by horological master minds Philippe Dufour, Paul Gerber, Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, FP Journe, Kenji Shiohara, Kari Voutilainen, Vianney Halter, Beat Haldimann, Volker Vyskocil, Thomas Prescher, Roger Smith and Felix Baumgartner.

  

  I own and have read a great number of books on watches: books about specific brands, specific uses, specific complications and so on. For this reason, perhaps, I’m not sure this is a book suited to people with no interest in haute horlogerie; it is a book that suits the desire of many advanced collectors and watch aficionados to have more information on the subject. 12 Faces of Time is a book at a whole new level that what is already in existence, providing insight into the creative and inspiring minds of today’s watchmaking legends. This masterpiece of watch literature is certainly more than just a coffee table book.

  

  The authors of this book, Elizabeth Doerr and Ralf Baumgarten, did an excellent job capturing the personal stories and excellent (and most creative) photographs of these watchmakers in their own environments. The authors needed to travel to four different countries to be able to make that possible. If they hadn’t done so, the watchmakers likely could not have been portrayed in as they are in 12 Faces of Time, at ease and passionately speaking about their work.

  This is a unique book in many ways, but one thing that really sets it apart is the choice of the twelve watchmakers portrayed. These were carefully selected by the authors of the book, without any influence of marketing from brands or luxury groups. As an avid reader of watch magazines, I thought I would be able to name them all, but some of the names were new to me. Kenji Shiohara, for example, is one I had never heard of before, even though he has created some tremendous timepieces for Seiko’s mini-department of high watchmaking. The book includes a few legendary names as well, of course: Ludwig Oechslin, former creative head of Ulysse Nardin, and François-Paul Journe with his impressive FP Journe timepieces.

  Not only the interviews make this book worthwhile, the photos are also simply stunning. The interplay of double-page photograph spreads and smaller pictures is wonderful, and amazingly enough it doesn’t distract you from the text with its careful wording.

  When I finished reading this book, I caught myself screaming ‘wow!’ out loud. This has never happened before, and I immediately looked over my shoulder to make sure nobody else was there. Just to be sure.

  This book has a price tag of 79.90 Euro. More information through www.teneues.com.

  Related posts:

  1. BaselWorld 2010: 12 Faces of Time: Book Signings with Watchmakers
  2. 12 Faces of Time: Horological Virtuosos
  3. A new book

• February 23, 2010
• 14:45

  Über Bargain Found: An IWC Ingenieur 3227-01 For 3200 Euro

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  If I didn’t already have one, I would seriously consider this IWC Ingenieur 3227-01 that is for sale over at Horloge Platform Nederland. This discontinued model was only in production for a short time, 2005 – 2008. IWC introduced this new Ingenieur model in 2005, to be a worthy successor of the original IWC Ingenieur SL model as designed by Gérald Genta in 1976/1977. Last year, I wrote an article on Genta’s classics and their current versions here on Fratellowatches (click here to read the article) and although I concluded that this revised Ingenieur is only influenced by its original design (unlike the almost unchanged Patek Philippe Nautilus or Audemars Piguet Royal Oak), it is still an impressive model with Genta DNA.

  

  With an original list price of 5900 Euro, this 3200 Euro is a steal for such a great timepiece (I wrote a review here). A very accurate timepiece, solid construction, incredible nice finish on case and bracelet because of the combination of polished and brushed parts and in this deal, it comes with both the stainless steel bracelet and original IWC soft strap.

  I have seen this particular timepiece and was impressed by its condition, only minor wear to detect, even on the bracelet which tend to scratch quickly after wearing it a few times. Horloge Platform Nederland even made a small (HD) video on this timepiece, which enables you to determine the condition of this watch even better.

  IWC Ingenieur, ref. 3227 from Gerard Nijenbrinks on Vimeo.

  I really don’t understand the price drop on these Ingenieur timepieces. Although they are probably only liked by collectors, it is a lot of watch for this kind of money. An in-house IWC movement (caliber 80110), high-end finish on all inner and outer parts and a comfortable size of 42.5mm in diameter. The later models are less interesting in my opinion, the sharp edges are gone, the size has become bigger and prices have (of course) gone up. Get a 3227-01 before they run out!

  Related posts:

  1. Ingenieur 3227: the score
  2. Custom IWC Ingenieur strap by Jacob
  3. IWC Ingenieur Mission Earth Edition “Adventure Ecology” IW3236

• February 22, 2010
• 16:09

  Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Safari Review

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  When the first Royal Oak was introduced in 1972, nobody could have guessed how popular the design would be in the 21st century. Based on that original design, Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak Offshore collection 20 years after the first Royal Oak. At least here in The Netherlands, the Royal Oak Offshore is very popular and in my humble opinion, it is one of the watches that caused the end of the hype around the stainless steel Rolex Daytona (given the fact that it is widely available again and that they are going for list price).

  However, given the fact that I am the proud owner of the Royal Oak model that comes closest to the original of 1972, how does this Offshore compare to its ancestor and is it actually a true alternative for the ultimate cult chronograph, the Rolex Daytona ref.116520? A few weeks ago, I was able to review a Royal Oak Offshore Safari (26170ST.OO.D091CR.01) from Dutch watch dealer Watch-Site and I finally have some time to share my findings with you.

  

  From the Offshore collection, the Safari always drew my attention, mainly because of the very nice creamy dial color. It reminds me a bit of the Rolex Explorer II Cream Dial ref. 16550 (mid-80s), a very sought-after Explorer II model. The Safari has this very cool brown alligator (hornback) strap with bone texture, making it look very euh… Safari. Just like every other Royal Oak, the Safari also has the 8 white gold screws in the bezel of the watch. When the watch is being held in certain angles, the light will play nicely with the satinized bezel and the high polished white gold screws. I catch myself doing this quite regularly

  

  The watch case is a lot bigger than the original Royal Oak model and not only that, but also a bit different in shape. Edges are not as sharp as on the original Royal Oak models, and most parts of the watch are a bit more round in general. The Offshore models are famous for their rubber parts, like the thick rubber gasket between the bezel and the watch case and the rubber protectors for the crown and chronograph pushers.

  

  Although not very visible in the picture above, the crown and pushers are not aligned. However, the date window already should have told you that this movement is not a dedicated chronograph movement but a regular movement with an additional chronograph module (this method is called piggybacking).

  The base movement is an in-house movement, that has been used by Audemars Piguet since 2005. The regular Royal Oak Date Automatic (ref. 15300) has the same base movement (caliber 3120), amongst others . The movement used in the Safari (and other Offshore Chronographs) is referred to as caliber 3126/3840, with 59 jewels and a 55 hour power reserve. A high number of jewels for a chronograph movement will tell you that it is a piggybacked movement most of the time. Nothing wrong with that of course, but the purists amongst us will prefer a dedicated chronograph movement instead.

  Personally, I think you shouldn’t expect to get a piggybacked chronograph movement in a 16.000 Euro timepiece, although it would be mainly because of the misalignment of the crown and pushers.

  

  As you can see in the picture above, the (round) screws are going in via the back of the watch and the white gold screw in the bezel is actually a hex nut. The case back of the AP ROO Safari actually says all that is necessary on the back, except for its 100 meters of water resistance.

  The production number is a combination of a letter and a few digits and then again a few digits with No. in front of it. The letter (G in this case) should tell us something about the year, 2007 and the rest is abracadabra to me. My own 15202 has an F-number, and dates back to 2006. If anyone can explain me the logic behind these numbers, I would be very grateful.

  With approximately 800 employees in Switzerland and 200 in foreign countries, Audemars Piguet is able to manufacture between 25.000 and 30.000 watches per year. So, there has to be something going on with the combination of these two identifiers in the back of the case.

  

  So, is it a good and modern alternative for the once highly sought after Rolex Daytona? Most Rolex fans will tell you that there is no substitute, and a lot of AP fans will probably tell you the same. Apples and oranges indeed. Fact is though, that the AP ROO has become the watch of choice for bankers, soccer players and movie stars, where there was once only one ruler, the Rolex Daytona – preferably in stainless steel. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but movement wise, I think the Rolex is more interesting with its in-house developed chronograph caliber 4130. When it comes to the resell value, the Rolex Daytona is – although the hype is over – still good to go quickly for cash that comes close to retail.

  A Royal Oak Offshore Safari Chronograph has a list price of 16.100 Euro, while you can get a BNIB model between 11.500 and 13.500 Euro. Used models, like the one reviewed, are approximately 10K Euro. One reason or another, you can bargain a lot on a new Audemars Piguet or get an occasion for almost 6K under list price. This could be seen as an advantage as well I guess, as long as you aren’t the guy who bought one for list price.

  

  The 44mm x 14.75mm dimensions might not look good on everyone’s wrists, but I surely found the watch to be comfortable yet very ‘present’. I do think that it is at least the nicest Offshore model available right now, with its brown alligator hornback strap, stainless steel bezel (instead of rubber) and easy-on-the-eyes dial.

  Thanks for reading and let me know what you think of this timepiece by leaving a comment below. Thanks to Watch-Site for lending me the watch.

  Related posts:

  1. Size Comparison: Linde Werdelin 3-Timer vs Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore (Safari)
  2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Montauk: Honoring a highway
  3. Audemars Piguet Rubber Clad

• February 20, 2010
• 14:45

  Orient CFH01001B Review: A Lot Of Bang For The Buck?

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  When I started buying mechanical watches about 10-11 years ago, there wasn’t much on the market (new) that I could afford. Last few years, this has changed drastically. One of the brands that offers mechanical watches for a decent price (for starters in collecting mechanical watches for example) is Orient. Orient is a Japanese watch company that exists for over 50 years and has a production run of 2 million watches per year. They are promoting themselves heavily on the web and are now also available in the US and Europe! Actually, before I got this Orient CFH01001B from OrientWatchUSA to give my opinion, I didn’t even know that a jeweller in my neighbourhood (I think it’s only 75 meters from my house ) is an Orient dealer.

  The Orient mechanical watches are in the 120 – 825 USD price range, which makes them very attractive for collectors with a budget. However, since there are more mechanical watches available in this price range (like Swatch, Seiko 5 etc) I wondered how Orient would hold up. The CFH01001B I received belongs to their line of Power Reserve watches, a cool complication that – besides chronographs, extra timezones and moonphases – I really like in a mechanical timepiece. One of my first remarks was that Orient should give their watches names or at least easy to remember reference numbers. What is CFH01001B about? I am not going to bother you with the translation table Orient has on-line, I just think they should come up with decent names or reference numbers. However, according to their own company blog, they acknowledged this issue already and are working on it.

  

  This Power Reserve CFH01001B model came in a simple but very acceptable watch box, with enough links in the bracelet to easily fit a tall guy’s wrists. The skeleton dial reveals the balance of the automatic movement, which looks very nice with its polished parts. When I turned the crown a few times, nothing happened. It seems that you really need to shake it in order to have the rotor winding the movement. This actually took a while before the hand of the power reserve sub dial pointed to the ‘40′ (since it has a maximum of 40 hours power reserve).

  The skeletonized dial of the watch is very attractive with its applied polished arrow shaped numerals, Orient logo and smaller sub dial including the seconds hand and power reserve complication. The 38mm polished case fits nicely on my 7.5″ wrists and the open part of the dial is nice to look at from different angles, so you can see some parts of the mechanical movement (see one of the pictures below).

  

  

  The domed mineral crystal gives the watch a nice look (although it makes it hard to photograph ) and it even magnify the dial a bit from certain angles, like the plastic domed crystal on the Speedmaster Professional by Omega. The Orient has a transparent case back, that enabled the owner to take a glance at the movement every now and then. I tested the Orient on a Witschi timing device (a similar one to the Watch Expert III pictured below) and I was amazed by the positive numbers it generated. The deviation was very acceptable (avg of +/- 10 seconds deviation per day) for a watch in this price range and perhaps it will run even smoother after its break-in period.

  

  

  With a price tag of 425 USD (currently being discounted with 30% on OrientWatchUSA) it is a very decent watch. However, as with all watches there are some things that could have been done better or at least in a different manner. The bracelet for example, is a bit too sporty for a watch like this in my opinion. I would prefer to have a watch like this with a more delicate bracelet or with a leather strap. I didn’t change the bracelet for a strap, since it is not my watch, but I am pretty sure I would like it better. The bracelet also doesn’t physically fit the watch very well, there is a bit too much play between the end-pieces and the watch case.

  To sum things up, here are the pros and cons about the Orient Power Reserve CFH01001B:

  Pro:
  - price tag: a 425 USD watch with 30% discount;
  - water resistant to 50 meters;
  - accurate mechanical movement with power-reserve complication;
  - transparent case back;

  Con:
  - winding only by rotor movement, no manual winding;
  - bracelet does not fit the watch;

  Related posts:

  1. 121Time Review
  2. WorldTempus: Bang! This is the Aero Bang Morgan
  3. Review: Oris TT3 Chronograph

• February 18, 2010
• 14:28

  Size Comparison: Linde Werdelin 3-Timer vs Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore (Safari)

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Since my review on the Linde Werdelin 3-Timer, a number of people asked me how the size of the 3-Timer compares to an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. Although I answered them that the Linde Werdelin is a bit more flat on the wrist and less ‘in your face’, last weekend I had borrowed an AP ROO Safari for a review and decided to take a side-by-side picture with the Linde Werdelin. As you can see, the dimensions of the Linde Werdelin are comparable to the AP ROO Safari when it comes to width and length, but the height is quite different. The Linde Werdelin is a bit less ‘in your face’ than the Royal Oak Offshore. As Kristian Haagen wrote on my Facebook photo album (where I put this picture as well): “Great pair! They should marry instantly. They will have beautiful children.” I wholeheartedly agree.

  

  

  Of course, you can expect a review of the AP ROO Safari here soon

  Related posts:

  1. Linde Werdelin 3-Timer review: No 13 arrived!
  2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Montauk: Honoring a highway
  3. Linde Werdelin 3-Timer

• February 17, 2010
• 13:47

  A buyers guide for $2000 watches

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Today, my Wednesday Watch article over at MotoringExposure has been published. After writing an article about $1000 watches, I thought it was time to stretch it up to $2000.-

  

  Since $2000 opens a lot of horological doors, I narrowed the list of possible doors down by using the following restrictions (based on my own thoughts):

  1. It should be a well-known/respected brand
  2. A mechanical movement (Swiss/German origin)
  3. No plastic parts on the outside (excludes Swatch)
  4. Stainless steel case and a leather strap
  5. Sapphire crystal
  6. NEW! (= excluding vintage) However, we don’t care for list prices. Do you?

  I selected three watches and the Nomos Club pictured above is one of them. Curious about the other two? Click here to read the article at MotoringExposure.

  Related posts:

  1. A Decent Watch Under 1000 USD, Check Motoring Exposure!
  2. Cars and Watches
  3. Sinn U1000

• February 16, 2010
• 14:56

  U-Boat U-51 Rattrapante Complicated Watch – An Amplified Masterpiece

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Italo Fontana has very well figured out how to design big watches. U-Boat watches are between 45mm and 55mm in diameter and even reach 65mm in the particular case of the U-1942. One thing that has not been associated much with these gargantuan timepieces, however, are complications. Showing that they are at the height of more traditional watchmakers to produced complicated watches, U-Boat released the U-51 Rattrappante complicated model.

  

  With a complex system of levers, springs, and pinions, the “rattrapante” or split-second chronograph movement is one of horology’s finest mechanisms. Its function is to allow the user to mark a time measurement without stopping the ongoing timer. This is done by overlapping two independent seconds hands. After starting the chronograph as usual, a third chronograph pusher can be used to stop one of the overlapping second hands and allow the user to take a reading. This can be used for timing lap times for instance. The English name for this type of chronograph is derived from the action of splitting the hands. Once the button is pushed again the hand that had stopped catches up to the primary chronograph seconds hand instantly. This gives the function its French name: rattrapante.

  

  Mostly you will find such fine mechanisms in more traditional and elegant watches, but the U-51 is nothing like these. The colossal case is 51mm in diameter without counting the impressive crown cap and pushers. It is undeniably based on military styling with a protruding, protective bezel, five visible fastening screws, and a matte satin finish. Although the exact measurement is not known yet, the thickness of the case is evident. The screw-locking crown protector – on the left as always with U-Boat watches – has been greatly reworked from the company’s more basic models. So have the hinge system that secures the crown cover to the case and the start/stop pushers. A final, subtle touch of style is created by abandoning the lugs, making the strap seem integrated with the case.

  

  

  What makes the U-Boat U-51 Rattrapante special is that every part of it has been amplified. Even the strap has been adorned with the most extravagant alligator leather and fortified with a rubber border. All these extras earn the U-51 a price tag of roughly US$15,000, which places the watch amongst the most expensive stainless steel U-Boats, but it is also amongst the rarest. The U-51 will be produced in very limited quantities and is in its own category amongst the U-Boat watch collection.

  

  Written by Marco Gagliano. Marco is a specialist of U-Boat watches at Matt Baily.

  Related posts:

  1. Piece Unique
  2. Porsche Design Rattrapante P’6920
  3. Impressive, but then again..

• February 13, 2010
• 8:36

  Review Omega Seamaster Professional PloProf 1200m

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  

  Introduced during BaselWorld 2009, the Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200m (ref. 224.30.55.21.01.001) is slowly hitting the stores and becomes available for the large public. This remake of the original Omega Seamaster Professional 600m/2000ft that was introduced in 1971 (after 4 years of extensive test work) is – in my humble opinion – one of the best that Omega did so far. Remakes are dangerous, collectors are most of the time insulted by them because there is only little left of the original details, and buyers of modern watches often don’t get all the fuzz and don’t like the old-fashioned design. This Ploprof 1200m is probably pleasing both groups.

  The Seamaster PloProf, with its impressive dimensions of 55m x 48mm x 17.5mm, got its name from the French term PLOngeur PROFessionnel as the team of developers of the original 1971 Seamaster Ploprof were French speaking. One of the nice characteristics of this watch is that it uses an in-house movement, just as the original Ploprof did in 1971 (caliber 1002). The movement, caliber 8500, is an automatic mechanical movement with a co-axial escapement and a 60 hour power reserve. It is exactly the same movement as used in the Omega DeVille Hour Vision.

  

  The button on top of the watch case, that used to be red (plastic), is now orange. The diving bezel can only be turned when you press this button, this way, the bezel is always securely locked during your diving session(s). The big bezel and the large button are very easy to operate due to the size of them. I remember divers complaining about the (Bond) Seamaster Professional 2531.80, that the diving bezel was not very easy to grasp.

  

  The crown protecting mechanism is essentially the same as the original 1971 600 meter diver, you have to unscrew the crown guard before being able to wind the watch and set the time and date. The difference is that the crown guard of the  current Ploprof 1200m stays in one piece instead of only unscrewing the top of the crown guard of the Ploprof 600m.

  

  Another optical difference is the case back. Where the original case back has a striped relief to protect the watch against moving around on your wrist or on your diving suit, the new Ploprof 1200m has only a small surface covered with this relief and the center part if taken by the famous Seahorse logo that belongs to the Omega Seamaster (and Speedmaster) family. It also tells you that you have a caliber 8500 ticking inside which has the co-axial escapement, making sure that the movement does not need an expensive service every 3 – 5 years. All you need to do is bring it to the Omega dealer or a independent watchmaker that replaces the gaskets and is able to test your watch on water resistance.

  

  As with all other Omega watches, Super Luminova is being used to illuminate the hour markers and hands. Furthermore, the bezel will be readable as well in the dark, as the numerals are lumed up as well. I actually don’t know if this will also be useful below the surface, but I assume Omega has thought this through.

  

  If I have to sum it up, it is a very handsome diving watch, staying true to the original Seamaster Professional Ploprof 600 of 1971. With a price tag of 6140 Euro / 8300 USD (including the stainless steel mesh bracelet), it is an expensive watch. Is it worth it? Sure. I’d rather go with this one, than with the Rolex DeepSea Sea-Dweller for example. The Omega Seamaster Professional Ploprof 1200m has a lesser water resistancy, but is just as cool when it comes to the cult factor and corresponding looks. Remember that there is probably room to bargain as well. I also find the caliber 8500 movement to be very interesting, at least as interesting as the proven Rolex caliber 3135 (which is also present in Date-Just, Yacht-Master and Submariner models).

  

  The price of an average conditioned vintage Ploprof 600 and a brand new Ploprof 1200 is not very different. However, if you take the possible discount on a new Ploprof into account and the premium price you have to pay for a mint condition vintage example (including box and papers) it is still serious money you have to additionally pay for a vintage example. Up to you, of course.

  Thanks to Dimer of Ace Jewelers in Amsterdam for the incredible nice photographs, specially taken for this review at FratelloWatches. If you are an Omega Seamaster Pro PloProf fan, make sure to check-out http://www.ploprof.com/. A website dedicated to this diving monster, both old & new.

  Related posts:

  1. Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonphase
  2. Omega Speedmaster Professional 3570.40
  3. Vintage straps for the Omega Speedmaster (pre-)Professional

• 8:36

  Review Omega Seamaster Professional PloProf 1200m

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  

  Introduced during BaselWorld 2009, the Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200m (ref. 224.30.55.21.01.001) is slowly hitting the stores and becomes available for the large public. This remake of the original Omega Seamaster Professional 600m/2000ft that was introduced in 1971 (after 4 years of extensive test work) is – in my humble opinion – one of the best that Omega did so far. Remakes are dangerous, collectors are most of the time insulted by them because there is only little left of the original details, and buyers of modern watches often don’t get all the fuzz and don’t like the old-fashioned design. This Ploprof 1200m is probably pleasing both groups.

  The Seamaster PloProf, with its impressive dimensions of 55m x 48mm x 17.5mm, got its name from the French term PLOngeur PROFessionnel as the team of developers of the original 1971 Seamaster Ploprof were French speaking. One of the nice characteristics of this watch is that it uses an in-house movement, just as the original Ploprof did in 1971 (caliber 1002). The movement, caliber 8500, is an automatic mechanical movement with a co-axial escapement and a 60 hour power reserve. It is exactly the same movement as used in the Omega DeVille Hour Vision.

  

  The button on top of the watch case, that used to be red (plastic), is now orange. The diving bezel can only be turned when you press this button, this way, the bezel is always securely locked during your diving session(s). The big bezel and the large button are very easy to operate due to the size of them. I remember divers complaining about the (Bond) Seamaster Professional 2531.80, that the diving bezel was not very easy to grasp.

  

  The crown protecting mechanism is essentially the same as the original 1971 600 meter diver, you have to unscrew the crown guard before being able to wind the watch and set the time and date. The difference is that the crown guard of the  current Ploprof 1200m stays in one piece instead of only unscrewing the top of the crown guard of the Ploprof 600m.

  

  Another optical difference is the case back. Where the original case back has a striped relief to protect the watch against moving around on your wrist or on your diving suit, the new Ploprof 1200m has only a small surface covered with this relief and the center part if taken by the famous Seahorse logo that belongs to the Omega Seamaster (and Speedmaster) family. It also tells you that you have a caliber 8500 ticking inside which has the co-axial escapement, making sure that the movement does not need an expensive service every 3 – 5 years. All you need to do is bring it to the Omega dealer or a independent watchmaker that replaces the gaskets and is able to test your watch on water resistance.

  

  As with all other Omega watches, Super Luminova is being used to illuminate the hour markers and hands. Furthermore, the bezel will be readable as well in the dark, as the numerals are lumed up as well. I actually don’t know if this will also be useful below the surface, but I assume Omega has thought this through.

  

  If I have to sum it up, it is a very handsome diving watch, staying true to the original Seamaster Professional Ploprof 600 of 1971. With a price tag of 6140 Euro / 8300 USD (including the stainless steel mesh bracelet), it is an expensive watch. Is it worth it? Sure. I’d rather go with this one, than with the Rolex DeepSea Sea-Dweller for example. The Omega Seamaster Professional Ploprof 1200m has a lesser water resistancy, but is just as cool when it comes to the cult factor and corresponding looks. Remember that there is probably room to bargain as well. I also find the caliber 8500 movement to be very interesting, at least as interesting as the proven Rolex caliber 3135 (which is also present in Date-Just, Yacht-Master and Submariner models).

  

  The price of an average conditioned vintage Ploprof 600 and a brand new Ploprof 1200 is not very different. However, if you take the possible discount on a new Ploprof into account and the premium price you have to pay for a mint condition vintage example (including box and papers) it is still serious money you have to additionally pay for a vintage example. Up to you, of course.

  Thanks to Dimer of Ace Jewelers in Amsterdam for the incredible nice photographs, specially taken for this review at FratelloWatches. If you are an Omega Seamaster Pro PloProf fan, make sure to check-out http://www.ploprof.com/. A website dedicated to this diving monster, both old & new.

  Related posts:

  1. Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonphase
  2. Omega Speedmaster Professional 3570.40
  3. Vintage straps for the Omega Speedmaster (pre-)Professional

• 8:36

  Review Omega Seamaster Professional PloProf 1200m

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  

  Introduced during BaselWorld 2009, the Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200m (ref. 224.30.55.21.01.001) is slowly hitting the stores and becomes available for the large public. This remake of the original Omega Seamaster Professional 600m/2000ft that was introduced in 1971 (after 4 years of extensive test work) is – in my humble opinion – one of the best that Omega did so far. Remakes are dangerous, collectors are most of the time insulted by them because there is only little left of the original details, and buyers of modern watches often don’t get all the fuzz and don’t like the old-fashioned design. This Ploprof 1200m is probably pleasing both groups.

  The Seamaster PloProf, with its impressive dimensions of 55m x 48mm x 17.5mm, got its name from the French term PLOngeur PROFessionnel as the team of developers of the original 1971 Seamaster Ploprof were French speaking. One of the nice characteristics of this watch is that it uses an in-house movement, just as the original Ploprof did in 1971 (caliber 1002). The movement, caliber 8500, is an automatic mechanical movement with a co-axial escapement and a 60 hour power reserve. It is exactly the same movement as used in the Omega DeVille Hour Vision.

  

  The button on top of the watch case, that used to be red (plastic), is now orange. The diving bezel can only be turned when you press this button, this way, the bezel is always securely locked during your diving session(s). The big bezel and the large button are very easy to operate due to the size of them. I remember divers complaining about the (Bond) Seamaster Professional 2531.80, that the diving bezel was not very easy to grasp.

  

  The crown protecting mechanism is essentially the same as the original 1971 600 meter diver, you have to unscrew the crown guard before being able to wind the watch and set the time and date. The difference is that the crown guard of the  current Ploprof 1200m stays in one piece instead of only unscrewing the top of the crown guard of the Ploprof 600m.

  

  Another optical difference is the case back. Where the original case back has a striped relief to protect the watch against moving around on your wrist or on your diving suit, the new Ploprof 1200m has only a small surface covered with this relief and the center part if taken by the famous Seahorse logo that belongs to the Omega Seamaster (and Speedmaster) family. It also tells you that you have a caliber 8500 ticking inside which has the co-axial escapement, making sure that the movement does not need an expensive service every 3 – 5 years. All you need to do is bring it to the Omega dealer or a independent watchmaker that replaces the gaskets and is able to test your watch on water resistance.

  

  As with all other Omega watches, Super Luminova is being used to illuminate the hour markers and hands. Furthermore, the bezel will be readable as well in the dark, as the numerals are lumed up as well. I actually don’t know if this will also be useful below the surface, but I assume Omega has thought this through.

  

  If I have to sum it up, it is a very handsome diving watch, staying true to the original Seamaster Professional Ploprof 600 of 1971. With a price tag of 6140 Euro / 8300 USD (including the stainless steel mesh bracelet), it is an expensive watch. Is it worth it? Sure. I’d rather go with this one, than with the Rolex DeepSea Sea-Dweller for example. The Omega Seamaster Professional Ploprof 1200m has a lesser water resistancy, but is just as cool when it comes to the cult factor and corresponding looks. Remember that there is probably room to bargain as well. I also find the caliber 8500 movement to be very interesting, at least as interesting as the proven Rolex caliber 3135 (which is also present in Date-Just, Yacht-Master and Submariner models).

  

  The price of an average conditioned vintage Ploprof 600 and a brand new Ploprof 1200 is not very different. However, if you take the possible discount on a new Ploprof into account and the premium price you have to pay for a mint condition vintage example (including box and papers) it is still serious money you have to additionally pay for a vintage example. Up to you, of course.

  Thanks to Dimer of Ace Jewelers in Amsterdam for the incredible nice photographs, specially taken for this review at FratelloWatches. If you are an Omega Seamaster Pro PloProf fan, make sure to check-out http://www.ploprof.com/. A website dedicated to this diving monster, both old & new.

  Related posts:

  1. Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonphase
  2. Omega Speedmaster Professional 3570.40
  3. Vintage straps for the Omega Speedmaster (pre-)Professional

• 4:04

  BaselWorld 2010: Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moonphase Complication

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  This news came in yesterday evening, a new Linde Werdelin Oktopus model with a Moonphase Complication. The Oktopus was introduced during BaselWorld 2009 and during my interview with them I was able to fiddle around with it a bit. The bezel with embossed numerals reminded me a bit about my precious Rolex Yacht-Master, and which I therefore really like. This new titanium Oktopus features a solid rose gold bezel, together with the moonphase complication the ultimate luxury diving watch.

  If you have a pale skin like me, you know you have to stay away from gold watches. However, a rose gold bezel on a titanium case will suit you fine. It is actually the only possibility for me to wear a gold watch.

  Also this time, Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin got help from Svend Andersen (like he did with the SpidoLite SA models) to work on the complicated automatic movement based on Frederic Piguet caliber 1150. The moon disc is made out of Super Luminova, which will make sure it is visible during every time of the day (or night). Svend Andersen built this moonphase complication based on the date feature of the Piguet movement, allowing to show a countdown to the next full moon. The transparent sapphire case back of the Oktopus reveals the Andersen-modified Piguet movement. The titanium watch is water resistant to 888 meters and includes an automatic helium escape valve located on 9 o’clock in the case.

  Normally, Linde Werdelin watches are limited to either 22, 44, 88 or 222 pieces each. However, the LW Oktopus is also a bit different in this aspect. It is limited to 29 pieces, connoting to the days before the next full moon. The Oktopus Moonphase Complication will be available for pre-order in September 2010.

  And now, for the specifications of this ultimate luxury diving watch:

  Size
  46mm (w) by 49mm (l) by 14mm (h)
  Movement
  Automatic mechanical Frederic Piguet movement calibre 1150,
  Linde Werdelin & Andersen Geneve personalised oscillator
  72 hour power reserve / 28 jewels / 28,800 bpm
  Moonphase complication by Svend Andersen with luminous photorealistic moon
  phases and moonphase countdown, manually adjustable by second crown position
  Case
  Titanium gr. 5, microbille finish
  Screw on case-back with sapphire crystal
  Rose gold unidirectional turning bezel with 10 minute markings & Super Luminova
  marker at 12 o’clock
  3.8mm anti-reflective sapphire crystal
  Screw in crown with LW logo
  Helium escape valve at 9 o’clock
  Dial
  Black matt dial
  Arabic numerals rose gold plated applied indexes with Super LumiNova
  Hands
  Rose gold plated, diamond cut rhodium plated with applied Super LumiNova
  Water Resistance
  888m / 2913 ft
  Strap
  Black alligator strap with titanium ardillon buckle

  Related posts:

  1. BaselWorld 2009: Linde Werdelin Sneak Preview
  2. BaselWorld 2009: Linde Werdelin’s Oktopus
  3. BaselWorld 2009: The Linde Werdelin Collection

• 4:04

  BaselWorld 2010: Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moonphase Complication

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  This news came in yesterday evening, a new Linde Werdelin Oktopus model with a Moonphase Complication. The Oktopus was introduced during BaselWorld 2009 and during my interview with them I was able to fiddle around with it a bit. The bezel with embossed numerals reminded me a bit about my precious Rolex Yacht-Master, and which I therefore really like. This new titanium Oktopus features a solid rose gold bezel, together with the moonphase complication the ultimate luxury diving watch.

  If you have a pale skin like me, you know you have to stay away from gold watches. However, a rose gold bezel on a titanium bezel will suit you fine. It is actually the only possibility for me to wear a gold watch.

  Also this time, Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin got help from Svend Andersen (like he did with the SpidoLite SA models) to work on the complicated automatic movement based on Frederic Piguet caliber 1150. The moon disc is made out of Super Luminova, which will make sure it is visible during every time of the day (or night). Svend Andersen built this moonphase complication based on the date feature of the Piguet movement, allowing to show a countdown to the next full moon. The transparent sapphire case back of the Oktopus reveals the Andersen-modified Piguet movement. The titanium watch is water resistant to 888 meters and includes an automatic helium escape valve located on 9 o’clock in the case.

  Normally, Linde Werdelin watches are limited to either 22, 44, 88 or 222 pieces each. However, the LW Oktopus is also a bit different in this aspect. It is limited to 29 pieces, connoting to the days before the next full moon. The Oktopus Moonphase Complication will be available for pre-order in September 2010.

  And now, for the specifications of this ultimate luxury diving watch:

  Size
  46mm (w) by 49mm (l) by 14mm (h)
  Movement
  Automatic mechanical Frederic Piguet movement calibre 1150,
  Linde Werdelin & Andersen Geneve personalised oscillator
  72 hour power reserve / 28 jewels / 28,800 bpm
  Moonphase complication by Svend Andersen with luminous photorealistic moon
  phases and moonphase countdown, manually adjustable by second crown position
  Case
  Titanium gr. 5, microbille finish
  Screw on case-back with sapphire crystal
  Rose gold unidirectional turning bezel with 10 minute markings & Super Luminova
  marker at 12 o’clock
  3.8mm anti-reflective sapphire crystal
  Screw in crown with LW logo
  Helium escape valve at 9 o’clock
  Dial
  Black matt dial
  Arabic numerals rose gold plated applied indexes with Super LumiNova
  Hands
  Rose gold plated, diamond cut rhodium plated with applied Super LumiNova
  Water Resistance
  888m / 2913 ft
  Strap
  Black alligator strap with titanium ardillon buckle

  Related posts:

  1. BaselWorld 2009: Linde Werdelin Sneak Preview
  2. BaselWorld 2009: Linde Werdelin’s Oktopus
  3. BaselWorld 2009: The Linde Werdelin Collection

• 4:04

  BaselWorld 2010: Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moonphase Complication

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  This news came in yesterday evening, a new Linde Werdelin Oktopus model with a Moonphase Complication. The Oktopus was introduced during BaselWorld 2009 and during my interview with them I was able to fiddle around with it a bit. The bezel with embossed numerals reminded me a bit about my precious Rolex Yacht-Master, and which I therefore really like. This new titanium Oktopus features a solid rose gold bezel, together with the moonphase complication the ultimate luxury diving watch.

  If you have a pale skin like me, you know you have to stay away from gold watches. However, a rose gold bezel on a titanium bezel will suit you fine. It is actually the only possibility for me to wear a gold watch.

  Also this time, Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin got help from Svend Andersen (like he did with the SpidoLite SA models) to work on the complicated automatic movement based on Frederic Piguet caliber 1150. The moon disc is made out of Super Luminova, which will make sure it is visible during every time of the day (or night). Svend Andersen built this moonphase complication based on the date feature of the Piguet movement, allowing to show a countdown to the next full moon. The transparent sapphire case back of the Oktopus reveals the Andersen-modified Piguet movement. The titanium watch is water resistant to 888 meters and includes an automatic helium escape valve located on 9 o’clock in the case.

  Normally, Linde Werdelin watches are limited to either 22, 44, 88 or 222 pieces each. However, the LW Oktopus is also a bit different in this aspect. It is limited to 29 pieces, connoting to the days before the next full moon. The Oktopus Moonphase Complication will be available for pre-order in September 2010.

  And now, for the specifications of this ultimate luxury diving watch:

  Size
  46mm (w) by 49mm (l) by 14mm (h)
  Movement
  Automatic mechanical Frederic Piguet movement calibre 1150,
  Linde Werdelin & Andersen Geneve personalised oscillator
  72 hour power reserve / 28 jewels / 28,800 bpm
  Moonphase complication by Svend Andersen with luminous photorealistic moon
  phases and moonphase countdown, manually adjustable by second crown position
  Case
  Titanium gr. 5, microbille finish
  Screw on case-back with sapphire crystal
  Rose gold unidirectional turning bezel with 10 minute markings & Super Luminova
  marker at 12 o’clock
  3.8mm anti-reflective sapphire crystal
  Screw in crown with LW logo
  Helium escape valve at 9 o’clock
  Dial
  Black matt dial
  Arabic numerals rose gold plated applied indexes with Super LumiNova
  Hands
  Rose gold plated, diamond cut rhodium plated with applied Super LumiNova
  Water Resistance
  888m / 2913 ft
  Strap
  Black alligator strap with titanium ardillon buckle

  Related posts:

  1. BaselWorld 2009: Linde Werdelin Sneak Preview
  2. BaselWorld 2009: Linde Werdelin’s Oktopus
  3. BaselWorld 2009: The Linde Werdelin Collection

• February 12, 2010
• 14:28

  A Closer Look at a Bell & Ross Classic: the Vintage 123

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  When thinking of Bell & Ross many relate the company to the popular and conspicuous designs of the BR “Instruments.” It is pretty obvious that these square watches were responsible for exploding the manufacturer’s popularity, but Bell & Ross was very active even before the BR timepieces existed. Bell & Ross had built a solid collection of more traditional watches, of which one of the best sellers was the Vintage 123. The Vintage 123, attracted many watch enthusiasts thanks to its palpable high quality, simple and clean design, and great value. These are all reasons why it is still in demand today.

  

  Presently the Vintage 123 is attracting many clients, albeit different from those who are attracted to the BR Instruments. The first aspect about the Vintage 123 that captivates watch enthusiasts is its purity. The watch is well designed. It is simple and clean without any frills and the same is also apparent on the movement’s elements within the case. The stainless steel case is 39mm in diameter. Some may consider this small by today’s standards, but if you can easily picture yourself wearing a Rolex Submariner (39-40mm) or an AP Royal Oak (39mm), then you will not. Vintage is an apt name when considering the watch’s sixties-like, minimalistic, classic style. The dial is also styled in accordance to the name. The hands and hour markers in particular.

  

  Aside from the style, the other aspect that attracts many to the Vintage 123 is the quality of the watch. The best way to appreciate the quality is to take a close look at the details. The brushed finishing on the case is evidently done by hand with visibly unidirectional grooves and well defined corners. The back of the case displays deep, sharp engraving for both the company ampersand logo and the case markings. Through the sapphire crystal window, the same quality engraving and finish can be witnessed on the movement. The crown screws in easily and feels quite solid, and the 100 meter water resistance rating is a testament to the cases durability. Another nice feature is the ‘deployante’ clasp that is fitted to the leather strap. It is comfortable and sturdy and protects the leather from creasing too much.

  

  

  The Bell & Ross Vintage 123 is not an attention grabber. Unlike its young BR cousins, it is content with looking sharp in a quiet way. When wearing it you are likely to receive the majority of compliments from those who are knowledgeable about watches, and the exhibition window on the case back can be used to impress the others. The Vintage 123 is the definition of “classic” and at the same time demonstrates that to be classic, something must stay fashionable indefinitely.

  Written by Marco, a specialist of Bell & Ross watches at Matt Baily.

  Related posts:

  1. Bell & Ross BR01 Airborne “Diamond Skulls” and Tribute Video
  2. Bell & Ross Pilot watch 10 years
  3. At least I can praise it for originality

• 12:22

  An interview with ChronoPassion’s Laurent Picciotto

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  I’ve mentioned him before, Laurent Picciotto of Chronopassion.fr. My colleague blogger Tom Mulraney of TheWatchLounge posted an interview between TheWatchLounge and Laurent Picciotto, which is a real pleasure to read.

  

  Click here to go to the interview over at TheWatchLounge.com

  Related posts:

  1. Laurent Picciotto of Chronopassion.fr
  2. Interview with Max Büsser on Watch Lounge
  3. Interview with Jeff Hess

• February 01, 2010
• 14:34

  The Sophisticated Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Moon

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Unfortunately, a 37mm looks kind of silly on my 7.5″ wrist. Otherwise, a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Moon like Rob’s (friend of the show since 2004) would be a perfect timepiece for formal occasions. Although Jaeger-LeCoultre seems to have entered a different route to approach its clients since a while, with big bulky watches or with high-tech materials, this Master Moon with a diameter of 37mm and a height of just 10mm is a true classic that at least will look good on you in a few decades from now. Will the Compressor watches do to? I think not.

  

  For around 3000 Euro, you should be able to find a nice Master Moon (young occasion) in good condition, complete with box and papers. Make sure the alligator strap comes with the original JLC  folding buckle and that the strap is still in good condition. A JLC replacement strap will cost you at least 250 Euro, or you can settle for a third party strap of similar quality (ABP Paris for example).

  

  The shape of the case is very classical and the polished and satinized parts are really stunning. The dial of the Master Moon (ref.140.2.98.S) is available in either black or wite and in grey for the platinum version of this watch. The arrow shaped hour markers remind me of 1950s and 1960s timepieces and I love the combination with the printed white date index on the dial.

  The movement inside this watch is a in-house Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 891/448 automatic movement, ticking at 28.800 beats per hour. These movements are tested against Jaeger’s own high standards on accuracy and therefore approved Master Control for 1000 hours. 1000 hours of testing before leaving the factory! The day, date and moonphase corrector are positioned in the side of the case. Two next to the crown (where the crown is in the center) and one corrector is located at 8 o’clock. You better buy a watch winder with this watch! After 38 hours the movement will stop ticking and if this is not becoming your everyday watch, you might find yourself busy setting this watch correctly a few times per week.

  

  If your wrists allow you to wear a 37mm watch, you really should consider this Jaeger-LeCoultre when spending 2500-3500 Euro on a slightly used timepiece. The only con in my opinion is the fact that the day functionality is using a moon disc hand, I am not particular a fan of those. But that’s just very personal. Otherwise, I really can’t come up with any more cons I would have against this watch. At least the colour scheme is thought through by Jaeger-LeCoulte.

  Related posts:

  1. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Heritage Gallery
  2. SIHH 2009: Jaeger-LeCoultre Navy Seals
  3. Jaeger-LeCoultre iPhone application ROCKS!

• January 31, 2010
• 10:12

  Back from Ortisei, Italy!

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  After a week of fun in the snow (wearing my Linde Werdelin 3-Timer), it is time to get back to work and back to blogging about watches. During my vacation, the invitations for BaselWorld and press releases are flooding my mailbox. So beware of some frequent updates here at Fratellowatches. Furthermore, an Orient review is coming up. Although I never took a serious look at Orient watches before, it seems to be a lot of bang for the buck. More this week!

  

  

  

  As you can see above, I shot some pictures of my Linde Werdelin timepiece during the holiday. Although I am not particularly careful with this watch, it seems to be hard to get any scratches on this baby. Just recently, a reader of my blog asked me about the Linde Werdelin and if it was a scratch magnet…  Well, it is not. After owning it for several months now, the scratches on my Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and IWC Ingenieur are far more present (and visible). I don’t think there is even one scratch on the LW. Nice eh?

  Back to answering a lot of unread e-mail on my Mac.

  Related posts:

  1. Danish Watchblog!
  2. Linde Werdelin 3-Timer review: No 13 arrived!
  3. Linde Werdelin’s new Hard Black DLC II unveiled

• January 21, 2010
• 15:54

  Dingemans Mechanische Horloges Jumping Hour

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  DMH, or Dingemans Mechanische Horloges (Dingemans mechanical watches) is a brand you probably never heard of before (although you might have seen it here and here). It is a very small Dutch watch manufacturer, with a maximum of 12 timepieces per year.

  Fred Dingemans, owner of DMH, mailed me pictures of his latest creation, a DMH Jumping Hour timepiece. As you can see below, an odd looking fellow with those screws in the dial and this water resistant crown-concept you might see for the first time.

  

  I did a small write-up on DMH and their Jumping Hour timepiece for the WatchUseek Blog, the no.1 interactive watch portal lead by Ernie Romers. In the heat of the latest SIHH and GTE news, this might be very refreshing!

  Click here to read the article.

  Related posts:

  1. FratelloWatches present on WatchUseek and WorldTempus!
  2. Horloges Magazine
  3. Omega Hour Vision

• January 20, 2010
• 15:12

  Dream Watch Alert! AP Royal Oak Equation of Time 26603ST

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  As you probably noticed already, the SIHH 2010 expo results in a lot of new and impressive timepieces by numerous manufacturers. Unfortunately, I could not make it to the SIHH and GTE myself this year, but at least I am able to track all new releases via WatchUseek, Perpetuelle, TimeZone and WorldTempus.

  Audemars Piguet is also exhibitor at the SIHH in Geneva and was actually the first brand that I kept an eye on, since I’ve seem to be bitten by the AP bug. The ‘regular’ Royal Oak timepieces suits me best and not the Offshore models. These are too bulky for me and I am not too sure about all the exotic materials AP uses for these watches. This year, I am lucky, because Audemars Piguet introduced a variety of interesting Royal Oak watches, including a non-limited skeletonized version of the 15300 model and an all new Royal Oak Equation of Time in stainless steel. Also available in gold of course, to match your yacht when you hang out in Saint Tropez.

  The 42mm diameter case houses an incredible complicated movement, caliber 2120/2808, consisting out of 423 parts. Base caliber 2120 is only a mere 2.45mm thick, including the rotor and all the complications added to this movement (hence the 2808 addition in the movement number) add another 2.90mm to be able to show the Hours, Minutes, Date, Day, Leap Year, Equation of Time, Astronomical Moonphase Display and the Sunrise and Sunset times for a given location.

  Although the equation of time probably doesn’t come to mind when thinking of a neat complication for your timepiece, at least not in my mind, it is a very impressive functionality to measure the difference between our conventional time and true solar time. For instance, if you’d measure time using a sundial, it will become apparent that it doesn’t indicate the same time as your watch, the differences can add up to 16.25 minutes. This variation is due to the earth’s elliptical path around the sun as well as its tilted rotation axis. For convenience, modern societies have calculated an average of all the days of the year and defined the mean solar day as comprising 24 hours, corresponding to so-called legal time.

  Photo courtesy of Horomundi.com

  AP explains as follows:
  “The mean solar culmination point depends on your exact location, on the longitude of a given location on the globe. The equation of time read-off system developed by Audemars Piguet takes account of this specific place. Unlike most other equation of time mechanisms, it is not set to a given time zone selected by the manufacturer, typically corresponding to 15 degrees longitude. The “world standard time” system divides the world into 24 time zones and takes the Greenwich meridian as the zero point. While the official time is thus the same across the width of each time zone, true solar time varies by four minutes per degree (15 degrees=1 hour). Therefore, although the clocks on the Bahnhofstrasse in Zurich and on the Rue du Rhône in Geneva indicate the same time, true noon – the point in the day when a sundial shows no shadow, or put another way, the sun is exactly directly overhead, can be observed a few minutes earlier in Zurich than in Geneva.

  Not only does the Audemars Piguet mechanism take into account this local variation, it also enables one to read off the solar culmination time at any time of the day. To do so, this exceptional mechanism is personalised and adjusted according to the degree of longitude chosen by its owner. The name of the chosen city and the solar zenith in this place are engraved on the ring (such as 12.36 for Geneva). The ring also bears a graduated scale running from -15 to + 15 minutes. The zero point of the graduation is located exactly at the mean solar culmination time in the chosen place. The equation of time hand continuously displays the difference between the two values. When the hour hand corresponds to the time indicated on the graduated ring and the equation of time and minute hands are superimposed, the owner of the watch knows that the sun is exactly at its zenith. It’s exactly as if he had a sundial on his wrist, and there is no need for any mental arithmetic!”

  The perpetual calendar and sunrise and sunset complications probably need no introduction, however, the combination of all these features make this one hell of a complicated timepiece. All this, without losing the original 1972 octagon shaped bezel and case design. Audemars Piguet did an excellent job, demonstrating their master watchmaker skills and using their proven Royal Oak concept. Although some people complain that Audemars Piguet is almost equal to Royal Oak (and admitted, they have plenty of other interesting collections currently), this one stands out and is hard to dispute with. No Offshore-ish design, no rubber or high-tech materials such as carbon or ceramics, just back to basics with their stainless steel case that represents the original Royal Oak model and a superb complicated mechanical masterpiece. I love this timepiece.

  Photo by Paul Boutros @ TimeZone

  The 26603ST (stainless steel) and 26603OR (gold) are only available on a leather strap, for now. The AP folding clasp has the famous AP monogram and comes in either stainless steel or gold. Prices will be probably published later on, when they are bound to appear in the AP boutiques and at authorized AP dealers.

  Good work Audemars Piguet! Besides the Equation of Time and the before mentioned skeletonized Royal Oak Date ref.15305, there are a number of Offshores in the new programme. A Royal Oak Offshore Grand Prix Collection, Offshore Diver, Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph and an Offshore Chronograph in 37mm, intended for men. Uhuh, we all know where the 37mm Chronograph is going to end…

  Related posts:

  1. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak: Nick Faldo
  2. Michael’s Royal Oak 15300
  3. AP Royal Oak: 15300 more interesting than the 15202 (a.k.a Jumbo)?

• January 18, 2010
• 11:33

  SIHH2010: Ralph Lauren Slim Classique

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Last year, during SIHH2009, Ralph Lauren introduced a line of watches that definitely can be considered haute horlogerie. Some of the Ralph Lauren boutiques carried vintage watches (by Rolex, Patek Philippe etc) for quite some years now, but now they have their own impressive line-up.

  This year, Ralph Lauren introduces the Slim Classique Collection. So if you think that Ralph Lauren is fashion only, think again.

  

  The Slim Classique is a 42mm diameter timepiece and only 5.35mm thick. Last week, I blogged about the thinness factor over at Vacheron Constantin with their Ultra-Fine watches but it seems that more brands follow this trend this year at SIHH (Salon International de Haute Horlogerie) in Geneva.

  This timepiece uses a movement by another king of thin, Piaget. A mechanical handwound movement (caliber RL430) with a thickness of only 2.1mm is ticking inside this RL Slim Classique. Although the caseback of this watch is solid (and therefore ideal for engraving purposes), the movement inside has a Côtes de Geneve and circular graining finish (click here for my article on movement decoration). The guilloché dial and Breguet style hands make this watch a classic and sophisticated looking timepiece and up to standards with the 42mm diameter. This will not look bad at all in the board room!

  The watch itself is available in rosé gold, white gold and platinum (Pt950). The 192 diamonds (total amount of 1.11 carat) are optional for this wristwatch. Of course, you’ll wear this timepiece on a black alligator strap!

  Below a close-up of the guilloché dial and Breguet style hands.

  

  Prices are unknown at the time of writing this post. My guess is that they won’t come cheap and why should they? Although the brand name might remind most people about their Polo shirts, the used movement, used materials for case, crown and strap and the perfectly finished dial and hands are proof of the fact that they are really a true watch brand as well.

  Related posts:

  1. SIHH 2009 News: Ralph Lauren
  2. SIHH2010: Vacheron Constantin Historique Ultra-Fine 1955 and 1968
  3. BaselWorld 2009: Frédérique Constant Maxime Manufacture Automatic

• January 14, 2010
• 9:00

  A Decent Watch Under 1000 USD, Check Motoring Exposure!

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Yesterday, I published an article on MotoringExposure about buying watches under 1000 USD. There are a lot of offers, but which one satisfies the watchfreak?

  

  Browsing the internet and going through several annual catalogues, I came up with the Glycine Incursore ‘Black Jack’, the Sinn 656 and the Tissot PRS516 Automatic Chronograph. All three very different watches, but are all ’serious’ timepieces under 1000 USD and follow my own 5 defined rules for this quest:

  1. It should be a (respected) Swiss or German brand
  2. A mechanical movement (Swiss/German origin), ETA2824 or ETA6498 for example
  3. No plastic parts on the outside (excludes Swatch for example)
  4. Stainless steel casing
  5. Sapphire crystal

  Of course, there are numerous great alternatives, but I had to make choices

  Please read the article by clicking here

  Related posts:

  1. Grönefeld GMT06 Tourbillon Minute Repeater is the Wednesday Watch at Motoring Exposure
  2. Top 5 of
  3. Swatch Forum

• January 12, 2010
• 12:16

  MB&F’s Horological Machine No2-SV (Sapphire Vision)

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Today, MB&F unveiled the Horological Machine No2-SV (Sapphire Vision) according to plan. Since early 2008, I am following Maximilian Büsser and Friends with great interest and have reported several times on their extreme cool creations. My personal favorites are MB&F’s (including Sage Vaughn) HM2 contribution to the Monaco Only Watch event and the recently introduced HM 2.2 BlackBox model that MB&F created together with Alain Silberstein.

  

  On the 6th of January, MB&F announced the upcoming introduction of a 25 piece only HM2, which is today, on January 12th of 2010. The HM2 SV edition gives away part of the secrets and inner workings of their Horological Machine Number 2 by using sapphire crystal to cover the entire front of the timepiece as you can see on the picture above.

  Sapphire’s hardness is second only to diamond, which makes the whole top half of the case (the most exposed half) extremely scratch-resistant. This is a timepiece that will keep its good looks for a very, very long time. The 3.6mm thick sapphire crystal consist out of a top plate that has been constructed out of three separate parts. It takes up to 55 hours to create just a single top plate of sapphire. Actually, Stettler in Lyss (Switzerland) was the only manufacturer of sapphire crystals that accepted the challenge and managed to fulfil this task in a perfect way, so I guess they are worth mentioning here

  To ensure maximum light and visibility through to the movement, the two dials – minutes and date – are also in sapphire, sapphire disks lightly brushed to a perfect translucency ensuring full legibility of the polished silvered numbers while allowing maximum light through to the engine beneath.

  

  The movement of the HM2-SV, has been developed by master watchmaker J.M Wiederrecht, it feature an instantaneous jump hour, concentric retrograde minutes, retrograde date and a bi-hemisphere moon phase. One of the technical highlights of this timepiece is the highly energy-efficient jump hour/retrograde mechanism developed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, which uses his exclusive (and patented) asymmetrical-tooth gear wheels to ensure high precision and play-free functionality.

  

  The price of the HM2 – SV is unknown yet, but I am pretty sure it won’t be in my personal collection any time soon. At least I have some specification of this watch for you:

  Movement:

  Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor designed functionality regulated and powered by a Girard-Perregaux oscillator and gear train
  Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph
  Blued 22k rose gold Battle-axe automatic winding rotor
  Number of components: 349 including 44 jewels

  Functions:

  Left dial: Retrograde Date and Bi-Hemisphere Moon Phase
  Right Dial: Jumping Hours and Concentric Retrograde Minutes

  Case:

  Sapphire/titanium limited to 25
  Dimensions (exclusive of crown and lugs): 59mm x 38mm x 13mm
  Water resistant to 30 meters (3 ATM)
  Number of parts: 120 (case only)

  Sapphire crystals:

  Sapphire case top and crystals over the dual dials treated with anti-reflective treatment on both faces. Display back with anti-reflective treatment on single face.

  Dials:

  Brushed sapphire and metallic blue disks

  Strap & Buckle:

  Black hand-stitched alligator with 18k white gold & titanium folding buckle

  Presentation box:

  Precision engineered aluminium and leather instrument case featuring an integrated Rüeger thermometer

  Related posts:

  1. Pre-SIHH 2009 news from Max Büsser: Horological Machine 2 Ceramic
  2. HM2.2 “Black Box” by MB&F and Alain Silberstein
  3. Omega Hour Vision

• January 10, 2010
• 13:33

  Rolex Milgauss DLC

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Last weekend, I was able to try a Rolex Milgauss with a Diamond-like Carbon (DLC) finish. Watch-Site had both this Rolex Milgauss and the Deepsea Sea-Dweller DLC’ed, where the Milgauss is ready for sale and the Deepsea needed to be assembled again. I took some pictures of the Deepsea to show the difference in color with the DLC Milgauss and to show how thick the crystal is, since the bezel was not re-attached yet.

  

  When the the new Milgauss ref. 116400(GV) just came out in 2007, I was very impressed with it (as you can read here) but noticed that the watch didn’t get picked-up as I thought it would be (as I wrote here). Along the way, this watch really grew on me and I already decided that this new Milgauss could be a perfect alternative for the Rolex Explorer 114270, as 36mm is a bit too small for my wrists. The Rolex Explorer always attracted me for being the cleanest sports Rolex around, but just not for me due to its size.

  Now, when I noticed that Watch-Site had this Rolex Milgauss DLC up for sale, I immediately asked them if I could try it for a few hours and make some pictures of it (since they are located nearby). The color of the Milgauss DLC isn’t black as most DLC watches, it has more of an anthracite color where the center links are still having that polished look and the rest of the bracelet kept the brushed finish.

  

  Pictures can be a bit misleading when it comes to the DLC color of this Milgauss. To show you that it actually is quite dark in comparison to stainless steel, I took a picture of my wife’s Rolex Explorer 114270 next to the Rolex Milgauss 116400. Please don’t mind the dust specks on these watches, as I didn’t notice them till only later when I loaded the pictures into my computer. The picture also shows the differences in size between the Explorer and the Milgauss, but also demonstrate the clean and readable dial of both.

  

  Although I could see myself adding a Rolex Milgauss to my modest collection of timepieces, this DLC was yet another confirmation that I am not very into DLC or black watches. I tried a (black) Sinn 142St.S a few years back and it didn’t last very long, I guess the same would go for this Milgauss. Personally, I do love the look of DLC watches, but they’re just not for me as I feel they are not as all-round usable as ‘plain’ stainless steel watches.

  

  

  

  In the picture above, you can clearly see the difference between the center links and the outer links of the bracelet. The Milgauss is quite thick, probably due to its inner case which makes it anti-magnetic / protected against magnetic fields. It wears very differently from my GMT-Master II 16710 and Sea-Dweller 16600. I love the sapphire crystal sticking out, like the Sea-Dweller’s crystal. The matt dial is very clean and in combination with DLC, very militarish. The orange flashing bolt hand refers to the vintage Milgauss models, to people who do not know this, it might look a bit awkward

  Below you’ll see two pictures of the Deepsea Sea-Dweller 116660, in parts…  just came back from the workshop where they applied the DLC technology to this Dipsy. Since the bezel was removed for the operation, it gives a good view on how thick the sapphire crystal of the Deepsea really is. THICK!

  

  

  The DLC coating on this Deepsea is matt black and very different from the glossy looking Milgauss. The Deepsea is a heavy duty watch and the matt black DLC looks appropriate on it, being a tool watch pur sang.

  Where I concluded earlier that the Milgauss or DLC (in general) is not for me, I did become even more enthusiastic about the Milgauss than I was before. Let’s see what 2010 has to offer for my watch collection!

  Price of the Milgauss DLC (BNIB) is 5750 Euro. Thanks to Watch-Site for letting me handle these DLC timepieces.

  Related posts:

  1. Rolex Milgauss, proven unpopular?
  2. Perhaps I was wrong on the Milgauss
  3. The new Milgauss: Available!

• January 07, 2010
• 14:33

  SIHH2010: Vacheron Constantin Historique Ultra-Fine 1955 and 1968

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  The SIHH 2010 will be held from the 18th of January till the 22nd of January 2010. During this show, Vacheron Constantin will be presenting their new Historique Ultra-Fine 1955 and 1968 time pieces. In today’s world of horology, it seems that watches can’t be bulky enough while a few decades ago, it showed true craftsmanship when a time piece was as flat as possible. Since a year or so, I noticed that there is quite a number of fellow watch collectors and aficionados that is akin to reduce diameter sizes and heights. Vacheron Constantin is the brand they’ll need to take to look at in 2010, with their Historique Ultra-Fine timepieces.

  

  In the 1950s and 1960s, Vacheron Constantin introduced the world’s thinnest wristwatches and today, they revive the quest for ultra-thinness with the Historique Ultra-Fine 1955 and 1968 models. The 1955 model represents a round case ultra-thin watch with a caliber 1003 movement, only 1.64mm thick, making the watch having a total height of just 4.10mm. This results in the Ultra-Fine 1955 being the thinnest watch in the world. The mechanical manual winding movement is based on the original caliber 1003 from 1955, but rebuilt in 18ct gold and bearing the Hallmark of Geneva.

  This Hallmark of Geneva can only be applied when the movement complies to 12 technical and style criteria which are outlined on the Vacheron Constantin website (click here to visit the Hallmark of Geneva section). Below is a picture of the rebuilt caliber 1003 movement in 18ct gold by Vacheron Constantin:

  

  The Ultra-Fine 1968 model is a square case timepiece, using Vacheron Constantin’s caliber 1120 movement, as introduced in 1966 and produced since the end of 1967. Below you see a picture of both timepieces. Vacheron Constantin’s caliber 1120 movement has been based on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s caliber 920. Jaeger-LeCoultre however, never used this movement in one of their own watches. Vacheron Constantin, together with Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe used the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920 movement in their own watches with their own caliber numbers.

  Vacheron Constantin (caliber 1120) and Audemars Piguet (caliber 2121) are the only manufacturers to still have these ultra-thin movements in production. Patek Philippe used it (under caliber number 28-255) during the first 10 years of the Nautilus timepiece before switching to a different movement, bearing caliber number 335SC.

  All in all, the Vacheron Constantin caliber 1120 movement has somewhat of a cult-status amongst collectors, especially those who love ultra-thin watches or have a weak spot for Gérald Genta (designer of the Nautilus and Royal Oak) or Hysek (designer of Vacheron Constantin’s ‘222′ which later became the ‘Overseas’).

  

  The Ultra-Fine 1955 timepiece is based on Vacheron Constantin’s reference 4961 (introduced in 1955) since that particular model already embodied a decidedly modern touch at the time of its launch. The 36mm 18 ct pink gold watch case of the Ultra-Fine 1955 is water resistant to 30 meters and has a transparant caseback using a sapphire cyrstal.

  The Ultra-Fine 1968 timepiece is based on reference 7614, also in an 18ct pink gold watch case and measures 35.2 mm along its sides and is even thinner than its historical predecessor: 5.5 mm compared with 6.52 mm, making it one of the thinnest watches in its category (of watches with a self-winding movement).

  

  By choosing to equip these Historique timepieces with the same legendary vintage calibres – the 1003 and 1120 rebuilt for the occasion and now bearing the independent and sovereign Hallmark of Geneva certification – Vacheron Constantin is shows their authority when it comes to exceptional classic watches.

  Click here to visit Vacheron Constantin’s offical website and make sure to check out the official Vacheron Constantin forum, The Hour Lounge.

  Pictures courtesy of Vacheron Constantin. Thanks to Jenna Guarneri.

  Related posts:

  1. SIHH2010: Ralph Lauren Slim Classique
  2. Gerald Genta’s Vacheron Constantin ‘222′
  3. Antiquorum Vacheron Constantin Auction

• January 06, 2010
• 3:02

  MB&F unveiled their HM2-SV on Facebook

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Today, Maximilian Büsser and Friends unveiled the first image of the Horological Machine No.2. – SV on their Facebook page.  There will only be 25 pieces world wide of this haute horlogerie time piece!

  

  The official unveiling will be on January 12th 2010. I will keep you posted.

  Click here for the MB&F website.
  MB&F on Facebook.

  Related posts:

  1. MB&F’s Horological Machine No2-SV (Sapphire Vision)
  2. Pre-SIHH 2009 news from Max Büsser: Horological Machine 2 Ceramic
  3. Maximilian Büsser and Friends

• January 05, 2010
• 13:37

  BaselWorld 2010: Maurice Lacroix’s Novelties Revealed

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  The days of Maurice Lacroix being an entry level brand is long gone (click here), especially since the introduction of the Masterpiece collection. During BaselWorld 2010, that is going to be held from March 18 till March 25, Maurice Lacroix will be introducing a number of interesting models.

  Most interesting are the two different Phases de Lune timepieces, since a moon phase is a complication that speaks to everyone’s imagination. The Phases de Lune are from different Maurice Lacroix collections, namely that of the Pontos and the Les Classiques.

  First, the Les Classiques Phases de Lune Automatique. A classic shaped moonphase timepiece, with a day and month indicator near 12 o’clock, and a very stylish moon disc at 6 o’clock. The date indicator is the fourth hand on the dial, pointing to the day numbers on the dial. The dial is available in silver (as pictured below) or black, the hands are filled with luminova and the 40mm case is available in stainless steel or a 18ct gold/stainless steel combination, where the lunette is made out of 18ct gold. The case has been finished with both polished and brushed parts, giving it an extra edge when the (sun)light is able to play with it.

  

  Maurice Lacroix uses a mechanical automatic movement (caliber ML37) for this Phases de Lune. This self winding movement has a 38 hours powerreserve and shows hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, month and moonphase. Maurice Lacroix uses this caliber in several other moonphase watches from their collection. The finish on this rhodium plated movement is quite nice, with its hand-decorated circular grain. The movement is based on the famous ETA2824-2 movement and uses an add-one module for all extra functionality.

  

  The other Phases de Lune is the one from the Pontos collection and is called Pontos Décentrique Phases de Lune, Limited Edition in full. It is significantly different from the Les Classiques Phases de Lune as you can see below, and probably aims more at the watch collector or buyer who loves a classic design with a twist. A fairly big twist.

  

  As you can see, the moonphase disc is located on 4 o’clock, the hours are indicated by a disc, the minutes by a hand (and also the only hand on this watch) and the date disc is at 6 o’clock. Below the moonphase disc you’ll notice that there is another disc, indicating the day/night.

  The titanium & sand blasted watch case has a diameter of 45mm and is therefore probably not suited for everyone out there. The movement ticking inside is the Maurice Lacroix caliber ML122, a self winding mechanical movement with a vibration of 28.800bph and a powerreserve of  38 hours. The finish is comparable to the ML37 as discussed above.

  This Maurice Lacroix Pontos Décentrique Phases de Lune is limited to 500 pieces world wide. Prices on both models are still unknown.

  Related posts:

  1. What to think of Maurice Lacroix?
  2. Interview with CEO Maurice Lacroix
  3. Hans Mennink did it again…

• January 04, 2010
• 14:13

  Rolex Submariner 116613 versus 16613

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  In April 2009, just after I returned from BaselWorld 2009, I temporarily switched my Rolex Yacht-Master 16622 with a friend’s Submariner 16613.

  

  Although I really had to get used to all that gold on this Submariner, the watch was definitely an eye-catcher and felt right in terms of weight, size and looks. The blue dial was amazing, espcially during daylight.

  Since BaselWorld 2009, Rolex introduced the new stainless steel/gold Submariner 116613. Using their new style case, like the GMT-Master IIc 116710LN and the earlier introduced white gold Submariner 116619, it is evident that this is Rolex’s way forward. It seems that Rolex listened to a lot of customers, and is firing their innovations to us in up-tempo. Rolex brings us new and improved movements (parachrom, YMII movement), a new type of bracelet with solid gold center links and a new folding clasp and ofcourse the new case design.

  John Holbrook of The Rolex Reference Page and Watch Talk Forums Inc wrote an excellent comparative review on the new Two Tone Submariner 116613 and the former 16613 model. He had the opportunity to review the new Two Tone Submariner and compare it to his own Z-series model Submariner 16613.

  Below you see the pictures that he took of both models:

  

  

  Although the differences appear to be quite obvious, I suggest you read John’s article to learn more about the changes that Rolex made to its most iconic model of the last few decades.

  Click here to read “COMPARATIVE REVIEW: The Rolex Submariner 16613 vs. the Rolex Submariner 116613″

  As I planned to attend BaselWorld 2010, I assume that one of the models that Rolex will be introducing will be the new Submariner in stainless steel, probably with the same case design and bracelet as the full gold and gold/steel models. I would consider this a good successor to the 16600 Sea-Dweller and 16610 Submariner, as the new Deep-Sea Sea-Dweller is a totally different design from its predecessor. However you never know if Rolex is actually going to introduce the Rolex Submariner 116610 this year, that they will come with something completely different or that they will skip a year with their innovations.

  Both photos are used with permission from WATCH TALK FORUMS INC

  Related posts:

  1. A temporarily swap: Rolex Submariner 16613
  2. Project X Designs introduces Rolex Submariner PXD SS1
  3. Gold/Steel Rolex Allowed (again)

• December 31, 2009
• 7:29

  Thanks and Happy New Year !

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Dear readers,

  In these last few hours in 2009, I would like to thank you all for the tremendous number of visits you paid my blog in 2009. An absolute record since I started blogging on FratelloWatches in 2004. Besides FratelloWatches (which I use to reflect my personal view on horological stuff), I have been writing for a number of other watch media, like WorldTempus, WatchUseek Blog, WATCH magazine and MotoringExposure.

  I also would like to thank my advertizers for their support and cooperation in 2009! Some of them have been my partners for years now!

  Personally, 2009 was a great year with a lot of travelling (including BaselWorld 2009), my wedding, a honeymoon trip and some great watches like the Linde Werdelin 3-Timer with brown dial and my recently acquired Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ 15202. I made some great new watch friends in 2009 (you know who you are!) and hope to continue to do so in 2010.

  

  I wish all of you the best in 2010, and wear your watches in good health!

  All the best,

  Robert-Jan Broer

  Related posts:

  1. Linde Werdelin 3-Timer review: No 13 arrived!
  2. Danish Watchblog!
  3. Happy New Year!

• December 28, 2009
• 10:04

  Just before year-end, I bought this….

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Just before year-end, on the 24th of December to be exact, I traded my Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref.15300 for a 15202ST (or 15202ST.OO.0944ST.02 in full). Although I was very happy with my white dialed Royal Oak 15300, the 15202 ‘Jumbo’ remains to be the original Royal Oak in my opinion. The original Gérald Genta creation of 1972 still lives in the current Royal Oak collection, bearing reference number 15202ST. The original Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ is pictured below, with reference number 5402.

  As you can see, the hour markers are a bit different than the current ‘Jumbo’ and the AP logo changed position. If you look even more closely, you will notice that the dial pattern is a bit different too. The squares are a bit smaller than on the current models of the Royal Oak series.

  What didn’t change, is the size of the watch, the lack of a second hand, the movement caliber (2121) and the thin case. The thin case is only possible because AP still uses the caliber 2121 movement, which has a height of only 3.05mm thick, including the 21ct gold rotor. The screws in the octagonal bezel are still made out of white gold, as are the minute and hour hands. Below a picture of the movement, dis-assembled (without rotor) not even 3mm in height. Picture credits to Matthias S of the German R-L-X forum.

  

  I think a lot has been written about this movement already, also used by Vacheron Constantin (caliber 1120 in their ‘222′) and the Patek Philippe Nautilus (caliber 28-255), all based on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s caliber 920. Story is that VC, PP and AP had some influence/input when JLC created this movement. Later on, only AP made this particular movement in license of JLC.

  The main difference between the 15300 and 15202 are the thickness of the watch and bracelet and, ofcourse, the second hand. From an owners perspective, I have to say that I really had to get used to the 15202 ‘Jumbo’ the first few days, as the bracelet is really thin in comparison to the one of the 15300. It feels a bit like wearing a vintage watch, where the 1972 design kicks in again probably. However, it wears very comfortable on my wrist and the look of the watch’s face (there is almost no space between the dial and the sapphire crystal) is simply amazing.

  Although I was a bit weary at first, that I would miss the new and updated bracelet, and the white face with long(er) hour markers, the Jumbo is here to stay and I consider it the master piece of my very modest collection of time pieces. The name ‘Jumbo’ is a bit out dated as well, since 39mm isn’t that Jumbo and the 15300 is even a bit larger in size. However, it could be considered authentic to keep calling this particular model ‘Jumbo’.

  Enough talk, here are some of the photographs that I took today!

  

  

  

  

  And here is a lousy shot of the transparent case back, showing the wonderful caliber 2121 movement. You can clearly see the superb finished rotor, with the 21ct gold mass attached to it.

  

  I will write a more in-depth review in some time from now, I first have to enjoy wearing it! Although I don’t feel the urge purchasing another time piece in the (near) future, I can imagine it will take a lot of time to buy something next to this one.

  Lastly, I recently found this vintage (probably 1970s) advertizement of the Royal Oak that I love to share with you.

  

  Related posts:

  1. AP Royal Oak: 15300 more interesting than the 15202 (a.k.a Jumbo)?
  2. Michael’s Royal Oak 15300
  3. The latest addition to my collection: AP RO 15300ST

• December 23, 2009
• 14:17

  Speedmaster Professional 40th Anniversary Limited Edition Reviewed

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Alon Ben-Joseph of AceJewelers.com – friend of the show – did a very nice video review on last year’s introduced Omega Speedmaster Professional 40th Anniversary Limited Edition.

  I love this version of the Omega Speedmaster Professional. The logo on the dial and special case back make it worth buying over most other limited edition Speedmaster Professional models. I have seriously considered buying this watch after it was presented during Baselworld 2009, but since I have had a few of these Speedies and cherishing my Speedmaster Professional pre-Moon caliber 321 the most anyway, I went for something completely different

  Enjoy the video and don’t forget to give some feedback on it!

  Related posts:

  1. BaselWorld 2009: Omega Speedmaster Professional 40th Anniversary 02:56 GMT
  2. 40th Anniversary of the Moon Landing
  3. Omega Speedmaster Professional 3570.40

• 14:17

  Speedmaster Professional 40th Anniversary Limited Edition Reviewed

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Alon Ben-Joseph of AceJewelers.com – friend of the show – did a very nice video review on last year’s introduced Omega Speedmaster Professional 40th Anniversary Limited Edition.

  I love this version of the Omega Speedmaster Professional. The logo on the dial and special case back make it worth buying over most other limited edition Speedmaster Professional models. I have seriously considered buying this watch after it was presented during Baselworld 2009, but since I have had a few of these Speedies and cherishing my Speedmaster Professional pre-Moon caliber 321 the most anyway, I went for something completely different

  Enjoy the video and don’t forget to give some feedback on it!

  Related posts:

  1. BaselWorld 2009: Omega Speedmaster Professional 40th Anniversary 02:56 GMT
  2. 40th Anniversary of the Moon Landing
  3. Omega Speedmaster Professional 3570.40

• 2:25

  Grönefeld GMT06 Tourbillon Minute Repeater is the Wednesday Watch at Motoring Exposure

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  As an avid reader of the FratelloWatches blog you probably know that I write for some other websites and magazines as well. MotoringExposure.com is one of them, every wednesday they publish the ‘Wednesday Watch’-article. Today, the Wednesday Watch is about the Grönefeld GMT-06 Tourbillon Minute Repeater. I have written this article with a bit of pride, since the Grönefeld brothers are Dutch AND are located in the same area as where I am originally from.

  

  Above you see Bart Grönefeld (right) and myself during the opening of the Grönefeld Exclusive Timepieces Boutique in Oldenzaal. Besides creating their own time pieces, they now have a boutique for other independent watchmakers (McGonigle, Sarpaneva, Kees Engelbarts, Cornelius & Cie) as well.

  However, to me, the most special time piece of their boutique is their own GMT06 Tourbillon Minute Repeater. As you can see above, I was even allowed to try it on under heavy supervision. The platinum version (limited to 10 pieces only) has a price tag of 385.000 Euro. Below, you’ll see a close-up of the GMT06 in platinum.

  

  Anyway, for the full article on the Grönefeld GMT06 Tourbillon Minute repeater, click [www.motoringexposure.com] . An article on the opening of their boutique will follow soon.

  Related posts:

  1. Cars and Watches
  2. Haute Horlogerie and Haute Motoring
  3. Porsche Design Rattrapante P’6920

• December 21, 2009
• 13:01

  Tropical Dial Cosmograph

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  During the last few days, we encountered some heavy snowfall here in The Netherlands. As you can see below, ‘my street’ became all white last sunday.

  

  Therefore, Bernhard of the 100% Rolex blog posted some incredible nice photographs of Rolex sports watches with so called tropical dials. According to Bernhard, these 1960s dials have probably been painted with a mixture of colours to get a deep black dial. The mixture probably included some brown that comes to the surface after the other colours faded away through UV (or perhaps a bit of moisture, who knows).

  In his most recent post, Bernhard shows a few Rolex models (among them is the Cosmograph pictured below) with a tropical dial. Although the vintage Cosmographs (and Daytonas) are a bit too small for my wrist (as they are 36mm), I really love them a lot.

  

  Brown dials are hot and I must admit that I always liked the brown dialed Rolex chronograph models, including the later Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref.16520 ‘compax marrone’ or ‘Patrizzi’ with its brown subdial rings.

  The (handwound) chronograph movements that Rolex used in those days were far before they started using their own movements, or even the Zenith movements ofcourse. In the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s, Rolex used the Valjoux 72 movement as a base caliber for their own Rolex caliber 727 movements. Below you see a close up of the Rolex Cosmograph movement, used for an interesting article on the WatchProSite. The photograph has been taken by A.Shear.

  

  This Valjoux 72 handwound chronograph caliber with a column wheel mechanism was used by numerous other brands, such as Heuer, Girard-Perregaux, Wakman, Wittnauer etc. However, and maybe I am falsely informed, but my guess is that most vintage Rolex collectors (same goes for Panerai for example) are not very interested in the mechanics inside their wrist watches, but it’s more about aesthetics. But please, if you are on the look out for a beautiful vintage Rolex, make sure the movement inside is in good running condition. Do not focus on optical problems only.

  Please visit Bernhard’s 100% Rolex blog for more interesting information on these vintage beauties.

  Related posts:

  1. Black turning Brown
  2. A new dial
  3. For the Italians..

• December 20, 2009
• 14:28

  Watches & Espresso

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Since over a year, Gerard and I decided to do something similar as Cars And Coffee, but for watch aficionados. It is more or less a ‘local’ thing and at best we are with 12 persons every first sunday of the month, enjoying a cappuccino or espresso in the first half of the day. However, since November and December are pretty busy months, one of the guys decided that we at least should have a nice End of Year meeting. So we did, last Thursday.

  One of the attendees was Fred Dingemans, of Dingemans Mechanische Horloges, he was handing over a dmh time piece to Victor. dmh is a Dutch brand, operated by one guy – Fred Dingemans – who is creating a maximum of 12 time pieces a year. Fred Dingemans uses his own machinery and tools to create a mechanical automatic time piece using his own design and being able to offer them for a fair price. Anyway, Victor got his custom made watch from Fred last Thursday, and as you can see in the pictures below, he was totally happy with it. Frank (of Monochrome), who is also a monthly attendee, organized the special guest-surprise for Victor, who still thought his watch wasn’t finished yet.

  Other attendees were wearing: dmh watches (2x and 3x if you include Victor’s new watch), 2x AP Royal Oak 15300 (white & black dial), 2x Linde Werdelin (One and 3-Timer), Rolex OysterQuartz Date-Just 17000, Omega Speedmaster Professional pre-Moon of 1967, Glashütte Original Senator Moonphase and a few Favre-Leuba’s (new models). Only few watches made it on the pictures..

  

  Above you see Fred and Victor and Gerard’s elbow. Victor just received his dmh time piece out of the creator’s hands, Fred. Below you see (from clockwise): John, Fred, Victor, Gerard and Hessel. I took the picture

  

  Although the pictures were taken with bad lightning and camera settings, they should give you an idea on the dmh time pieces.

  

  

  Above you’ll see the transparent case back of the watch. The watch itself is made out of 316L stainless steel, is water resistant to 30 meters and always uses a mechanical movement (as the company name implies). Most used movement is a TD movement, however, it is perfectly possible that Fred is going to use other movements in the future as well.

  Below you see the customized dmh watch of Victor, with white dial.

  

  To prevent this diner from becoming a total dmh party, I captured John’s and my own Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15300ST. Except the number of links in the bracelet and dial colour, exactly the same watches.

  

  Two days later, I attended the opening of the Grönefeld boutique in Oldenzaal. Grönefeld became – besides being a watch manufacturer – a boutique for a few other independent watchmakers, such as Sarpaneva, McGonigle, Peter Speake-Marin, Kees Engelbarts and Cornelius & Cie. More about this happening later on this week.

  Related posts:

  1. Top 5 of
  2. Michael’s Royal Oak 15300
  3. A diner filled with new and vintage watches

• December 16, 2009
• 0:03

  Cars and Watches

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Every wednesday, I post an article on Motoring Exposure, a website / blog dedicated to high-end cars. Today, an article on the discontinued IWC Ingenieur AMG version and last week, I posted an article on the Chronoswiss Tachoscope Audi Centennial Edition.

  Arash F10

  Have a go and read some of my articles over there, it is also possible to leave a comment on them. Click here to visit the Wednesday Watch topics.

  Related posts:

  1. Watches and cars
  2. Chronoswiss, what are you doing?
  3. Chronoswiss Digiteur

• December 13, 2009
• 23:38

  TAG Heuer and Tiger Woods, Rolex and Elin Nordegren

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Tiger Woods, a golf pro hero that sees his career end-up in pieces in just a few weeks, only because he doesn’t live up to the high standard of being a role model for every kid in the US who wants to achieve something. Who cares what he does in his private life? He didn’t kill anyone, didn’t steal.. The hypocrisy of the ones who judge and dropped him is unbelievable imho. I think golf pro Nick Faldo had the same sort of problems in the past (early 1980s) and he recovered quite okay-ish. Anyway, just like his sponsor TAG Heuer, Tiger saw his name/image going down rather quickly due to some bad Public Relations/Communication.

  

  I hope that TAG Heuer at least has the decency not to drop him like some of the other sponsors did. Woods remains a great ambassador for their sports watches, simply due to the fact that he is a great sportsman. Currently, TAG Heuer promotes their Golf watch using Tiger Woods as ambassador. In real life, it seems that Tiger choses the TAG Heuer Link Chronograph.

  

  His wife (and former model) Elin Nordegren seems to have a nice taste in watches as well. The popular German Rolex Forum (R-L-X.DE) spotted her wearing a Rolex sportswatch (looks like a Submariner), as you can see below. You can find a lot of other famous people wearing Rolex in the R-L-X thread here, or visit Jake’s Rolex blog.

  Related posts:

  1. TAG Heuer Party Squad
  2. Some Tag Heuer news
  3. Heuer Monaco show-off

• 10:57

  TAG Heuer’s new 100% in-house designed caliber 1887… OUCH!

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Pioneering Swiss watchmaking for 150 years. According to the official TAG Heuer website that is, because there is some discussion around the ‘pioneering’ part. Their latest in-house manufactured caliber 1887 movement seems to be based on a Seiko movement. Nothing necessarily wrong with that,  however, TAG Heuer’s press release stated that this caliber 1887 is a ‘designed 100% in-house’ movement. Even according to TAG Heuer’s CEO J. Babin, it is clearly not designed in-house, as the CEO himself is posting messages on several TAG Heuer forums to give an explanation to all TAG Heuer fans. His post on WatchUseek starts like this: “Hi, I’m J.C. Babin the CEO of TAG Heuer, and YES, the new Caliber 1887 is based on a SII (Seiko Instruments Inc.) TC78 platform developped and patented in 1997 (filing) and eversince produced in very limited quantities, apparently for Junghans and Seiko watches in Japan.”

  I would have guessed he just would have send another press release, fire the marketing dude who came up with the one-liner and get a communication/PR professional to fix things with the heated forum crowd. Perhaps they’ve already done that, or would it be a coincidence that TAG Heuer’s website is not available right now? (Service Unavailable error)

  TAG Heuer’s Caliber 1887 movement

  Kyle Stults of Perpetuelle did a very nice job on describing the whole matter in a blog post on his website. Click here for Kyle’s article, “TAG Heuer shoots itself in the foot on Tag Heuer Caliber 1887 launch”. Also check-out TAG Heuer devote website Calibre11.com.

  Related posts:

  1. TAG Heuer and Tiger Woods, Rolex and Elin Nordegren
  2. Tag Heuer fansites
  3. TAG Heuer Party Squad

• 10:23

  All Black SpidoLite SA

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Although I have mentioned the Linde Werdelin SpidoLite SA All Black before (click here), I never really published about it, since I don’t want to become too biased. On the other hand, this blog represents my own interest in watches and brands, so why not? Fellow Dutchman Martin Wilmsen’s website (WristWatchPhoto), normally dedicated to Panerai watches, mentioned the SpidoLite SA All Black a few days ago. I was blown away by the pictures he took and he told me I could use them for my own blog if I wanted to. Well, here you go. The full set of pictures can be found at his other web initiative, PaneristiPix.com.

  

  The SpidoLite SA All Black DLC version was introduced on the 15th of October 2009, retailing at 9.800 Euro. This DLC’ed titanium watch is limited to 88 pieces world wide, and is available for pre-order via the Linde Werdelin website or through one of their distributors. Like all SpidoLite SA versions, the movement is a A.Schild caliber 1876 modified by Svend Andersen. The rotor, made from blue gold, is engraved with both the LW and Andersen Geneve logo. Svend Andersen is an independent watch maker, based in Geneva, and respected member of the AHCI (Horological academy of Independent Creators). Actually, Andersen is one of the founding members of the AHCI, an initiative from 1985 for (master) watch makers to demonstrate that watch making is more then meets the eye. Michael Clerizo covered Svend Andersen in his recently released book on watch making, Masters of Contemporary Watchmaking.

  

  The SpidoLite has been designed to fulfil the need of professional mountaineers, to have a light weight wrist watch. Like all other Linde Werdelin time pieces, this one can also be extended with The Rock instrument for mountaineers or skiing fanatics. This All Black version has been coated with DLC (the normal version has a titanium grade 5 watch case) and features blued hands.

  

  I think it is important to stretch that despite its size (dimensions: 46mm (w) by 49mm (l) by 12mm (h)), the Linde Werdelin watches wear very comfortably on the wrist.

  Also, if you are Dutch, please visit www.horloge.com for more information on Linde Werdelin. Horloge Platform Nederland recently became Linde Werdelin’s official retailer in The Netherlands.

  Photos courtesy of M.Wilmsen.

  Related posts:

  1. BaselWorld 2009: Linde Werdelin Sneak Preview
  2. Linde Werdelin’s new Hard Black DLC II unveiled
  3. BaselWorld 2009: The Linde Werdelin Collection

• December 02, 2009
• 15:06

  DaLuca Panerai Watch Straps

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Part of being a Paneristi is to collect nice and special watch straps. I have written about straps made from vintage ammo pouches and one – not for Panerai in this case – made from the leather interior of a Mercedes SLR 300 (1956) formerly owned by Jean Todt.

  Last week, I received an e-mail about DaLuca’s Panerai Straps. The owner, Daniel Luczak, creates one-off straps for Panerai watches made out of ammo pouches and other vintage leather used for (mostly) military purposes. Each strap is individually named and will never be duplicated.

  On PaneraiSource.com, you’ll find a well written and documented review of DaLuca straps. As I wrote some time ago, these kind of straps and intiatives makes me want to own a Panerai again. Just a basic Luminor model, or the new 1950 with in-house caliber, PAM312.

  One of the vintage Panerai straps from DaLuca is called ‘Bunker Hill Revolt’! Although violent scenes from WWII movies come to mind,the strap at least looks impressive and indeed made from leather that has been in or around bunkers during that time..

  

  Below you’ll see a vintage Panerai strap called ‘flame thrower’. One can only imagine what this leather must have been going through..  The leather goes back to the 1940s and is super soft. Dan’s straps come with a sewn-in buckle (Pre-Vendome style), includes the tubes for attaching them safely to your Panerai and free shipping within the USA (outside, add 10 USD).

  

  Prices for the pictured straps are 290 USD (Bunker Hill Revolt) and 210 USD (Flamethrower). Payments can be made through PayPal or by Credit Card.

  Click www.DaLucaStraps.com for their entire collection of interesting Panerai straps.

  Related posts:

  1. Ammo pouch straps for Panerai
  2. Panerai Straps
  3. Watch straps

• 11:12

  Don’t miss out! WatchUseek Grande Finale 2009!

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  WatchUseek, considered to be the No.1 interactive watch portal, is having a Grande Finale 2009 event! This means that WatchUseek, in combination with its sponsors, will celebrate the end of 2009 and the start of 2010 by giving away a number of watches to registered members of WatchUseek that enroll for the contest!

  

  The instructions are quite simple! Ernie Romers, director of WatchUSeek, wrote a small FAQ for all attendees.

  How can I participate?
  Simple, enter the competition as soon as it is published in here.

  What else should I know about this Grande Finale?
  The Grande Finale 2009 is for WatchUseek’s members, moderators and sponsors only. Not yet a member? Register here!

  What does WatchUseek need from me?
  1. your visit to the sponsor’s website (see below)
  2. the right answers to the questions.
  3. your full name, address and phone number, once you are one of the winners.
  4. a post about the won watch on WatchUseek after you’ve received it.

  It’s as easy as that!

  When will the Grande Finale 2009 be held and what about the prizes?
  From December 1 through December 31, 2009. The winners will then be announced in the 1st week of January.

  The list of current Sponsors: www.anonimo.com – www.longislandwatch.com – www.alphawatchusa.com – www.steinhartwatches.de – www.chronoworld.com – www.worldofluxuryus.com – www.zinexwatch.com – www.laco.de – www.stowa.de – www.tourbywatches.com – www.balihaiproject.com & www.watchuseek.com

  For example, one of the watches that you can win is the Anonimo Wayfarer II. This 42mm watch with GMT-functionality is pictured below and exact specifications can be found by clicking here.

  

  Please click here for the official announcement at WatchUseek.com

  Related posts:

  1. Ernie’s inteview with Dott Col Dino Zei
  2. Habring Time Only 2009
  3. WatchUseek temporarily offline

• 10:45

  Porsche Design Rattrapante P’6920

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  My second article for MotoringExposure has been posted. This time, it is a post about Porsche Design’s Rattrapante P’6920.

  

  Click here for the article.

  Related posts:

  1. Cars and Watches
  2. Haute Horlogerie and Haute Motoring
  3. Design the Next Lüm-Tec

• November 30, 2009
• 15:07

  Grab the former Rolex Sea-Dwellers while you can!

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  I have to be honest, I don’t like the new Rolex Sea-Dweller Deep Sea very much. It is not that I dislike the inner ring that everybody is talking about, with the Sea-Dweller subscription, it is the size of the watch and the rather ’small’ bracelet attached to it. Perhaps the watch has to grow on me, like the GMT-Master IIc (ref.116710) and the Milgauss (ref.116400(GV)) did in the meanwhile. I happen to like these last two a lot actually. So who knows, I might be able to like the Rolex Sea-Dweller Deep Sea in the (far) future as well.

  

  However, I do not seem to be alone with regards to the new and [technically] improved Sea-Dweller Deep Sea 116660. The former Rolex Sea-Dweller ref.16600 (pictured above) is very hot at the moment, perhaps hotter than it ever was. Some unauthorized dealers have been buying the last produced Sea-Dweller ref.16600 time pieces ever since the introduction of the Deep Sea model, and it is paying off. The last known catalogue (or list) price was 4870 euro.

  

  If you take a look at the small graph above, captured from the famous R-L-X Sales website, you’ll notice that in the last 2 years the average price of a Rolex Sea-Dweller ref.16600 (new & used) has grown towards the last known list price. Normally, [even] a Rolex sports watch in steel can be had with some discount, with the exception of newly introduced models or the famous Rolex Daytona ref. 116520. The last unofficial price for a Rolex Sea-Dweller at an unauthorized dealer – when the watch was still in production – was between 3950 and 4200 euro (list was 4870 euro). I know, because a few of my sponsors (see banners) are heavily into new & vintage Rolex watches.

  On the Dutch Rolex Forum, new & unworn Rolex Sea-Dwellers (ref.16600) that are probably from the last batch of this model, are going between for 4650 euro and others have them on sale for even a bit more…(4950 euro at JKWatchStore).

  

  On watch market portal Chrono24, the ref.16600 Sea-Dwellers are offered – depending on condition, age (tritium or luminova) and whether it comes with box & papers – between 3000 euro and 5500 euro. So, if you’ll do your best to get one for a price that is somewhere between 3000 and the last offered new & unworn models, I think you have a mighty good watch with classic appeal that will suit almost everyone’s wrist.

  My own Sea-Dweller (1997) was one of the first watches I bought from the salary (= salaries) of my first job after college in 2003, and I still enjoy it a lot! I really tried the Deep Sea but it doesn’t appeal to me as much as the former Sea-Dweller model. The Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 seems to be a more civilized watch in comparison to the Deep Sea ref. 116660, which is a funny thing, since when I bought mine in 2003, it was regarded bulky and very ‘present’ on the wrist.

  In fact, I can’t believe Rolex made such a giant leap (for Rolex, not mankind) from the former Sea-Dweller to the Deep-Sea model. One of the few things that give me hope for a more in between model, is that they went from reference number 16600 to 116660 instead of using 116600. Will there be a 116600? No one knows, only Mr Meier perhaps, CEO of Rolex.

  

  Also, if you want to go a step further back in time, you can also opt for a Sea-Dweller ref.16660 a.k.a. ‘Triple Six’ Sea-Dweller. Rolex collectors like to talk about ‘transition models’ when they discuss the GMT-Master 16750 & 16760, Submariner 16800 and the Sea-Dweller 16660 also belongs in this list of transition models. Produced in the mid-eighties, the Triple Six Sea-Dweller is considered to be neo-vintage and a soon to be vintage anyway. If you are going to invest time in looking for a pre-116660 Sea-Dweller, you might want to look into these as well. The above pictured ref.16660 Sea-Dweller belongs to Remco, well respected Dutch Rolex Forum member from the first hour with a passion for (vintage) Rolex. As you can see, the tritium hour markers and hands show nice patina (the yellow-ish or vanilla color due to a proper ageing process) and the case and bracelet are in superb condition.

  

  Complete with box and papers, expect to pay some more than the later ref.16600 model with tritium or the ones with luminova dials of course.

  To cut a long story short, if you want to have this classic looking Sea-Dweller, ref.16600 or ref.16660, I think you should consider acting now, before they leave the collector’s market at all. The ref.16600 Sea-Dweller didn’t become very popular until 2007/2008 for the big [watch] public, so chances are big that there aren’t THAT many of them around (in comparison to Submariners). Especially the Triple Six Sea-Dweller from the 1980s (with caliber 3035 instead of the later 3135) and the later 16600’s with tritium dials will probably going to fetch some higher prices in the near future. Rolex started using luminova dials in 1998 with respect to the Sea-Dweller.

  Let me know your thoughts about the former Sea-Dweller and the current ‘replacement’, the Sea-Dweller Deep Sea. Click ‘comments’ below to do so.

  Related posts:

  1. Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea
  2. Rolex COMEX stories
  3. A diner filled with new and vintage watches

• November 27, 2009
• 10:48

  Interview with Max Büsser on Watch Lounge

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  Tom Mulraney of The Watch Lounge interviewed Maximilian Büsser, friend of the show, which is definitely worth reading! I covered MB&F’s projects a lot during the past year(s), including my personal favorites HM2 ‘Only Watch’ and his latest, the HM2.2 ‘Black Box’ that he created together with Alain Silberstein.

  

  Click here to read the interview that Tom had with Maximilian Büsser.

  Related posts:

  1. HM2.2 “Black Box” by MB&F and Alain Silberstein
  2. Maximilian Büsser and Friends
  3. Alain Silberstein

• November 25, 2009
• 13:22

  Haute Horlogerie and Haute Motoring

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  As of today, I participate in MotoringExposure.com, a website for those who are passionate about super cars. Although I am pretty sure I will never own one of these wheels myself, I do like to read about them. The MotoringExposure team thought that their readers might be into watches as well, haute horlogerie to be precise. I think they might be right, since the love for mechanical watches and (special) cars seem to go hand-in-hand. How often have you seen the car & watch analogies on dedicated websites and forums? And how many watch brands do look-up their own car brand to be connected with? Aston Martin and Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC and AMG, Officine Panerai and Ferrari, Oris and BMW F1, Audemars Piguet and Maserati, Tudor and the Porsche Motorsport… just to name a few official ones.

  

  My participation in MotoringExposure.com is writing about timepieces. Not only the ones that have a car-connection, but the ones that could make the hearts of car passionata tick faster. The first article is about the watch that is definitely known amongst MotoringExposure readers, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona. Seen on the wrist of Paul Newman (Winning) but also on the wrist of the winners of the 24 Hours of LeMans.

  

  The Everose gold version (ref.116505) of the Rolex Daytona is really something special in my opinion and might perfectly fit the wrist of a super car owner. Even if his or her interested in watches is only limited, you can’t go wrong with a Rolex chronograph ofcourse!

  Related posts:

  1. Cartier: Jewellery or Haute Horlogerie?
  2. Cars and Watches
  3. Porsche Design Rattrapante P’6920

• November 23, 2009
• 15:13

  Book Signing at Salon Belle Montres in Paris

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  In the weekend of 27, 28 and 29 November, the Salon Belle Montres is being held in Paris, France. During these two days, the author of Masters of Contemporary Watchmaking, Michael Clerizo, will be signing his book. Amongst others, the 11 master watchmakers that he has written about in his book, will be attending the Salon Belle Montres in Paris as well. I reviewed Michael’s book some time ago, which you can read (again) by clicking here.

  

  This book signing is being organized by the biggest on-line watch and jewellery book retailer, called WatchPrint. WatchPrint is also the bookshop present at Baselworld, SIHH, Belles Montres Paris and EPHJ.

  Salon Belle Montres in Paris will also host a lot of other watch brands during the weekend of 27th, 28th and 29th November. What to think of A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Grönefeld, JLC, Maitres du Temps, Richard Mille, Vacheron Constantin… and more. Last but not least, Rolex will also be present on the Salon Belle Montres. A full overview of exhibitors can be found here. A big event and I wish I could be there… better luck next time.

  Related posts:

  1. Paris this week…
  2. Time for Oneself, a free book!
  3. Upcoming Panerai book

• 15:13

  Book Signing at Salon Belle Montres in Paris

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  In the weekend of 27, 28 and 29 November, the Salon Belle Montres is being held in Paris, France. During these two days, the author of Masters of Contemporary Watchmaking, Michael Clerizo, will be signing his book. Amongst others, the 11 master watchmakers that he has written about in his book, will be attending the Salon Belle Montres in Paris as well. I reviewed Michael’s book some time ago, which you can read (again) by clicking here.

  

  This book signing is being organized by the biggest on-line watch and jewellery book retailer, called WatchPrint. WatchPrint is also the bookshop present at Baselworld, SIHH, Belles Montres Paris and EPHJ.

  Salon Belle Montres in Paris will also host a lot of other watch brands during the weekend of 27th, 28th and 29th November. What to think of A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Grönefeld, JLC, Maitres du Temps, Richard Mille, Vacheron Constantin… and more. Last but not least, Rolex will also be present on the Salon Belle Montres. A full overview of exhibitors can be found here. A big event and I wish I could be there… better luck next time.

  Related posts:

  1. Paris this week…
  2. Time for Oneself, a free book!
  3. Upcoming Panerai book

• 15:13

  Book Signing at Salon Belle Montres in Paris

   » ‎ Fratellowatches.com

  In the weekend of 27, 28 and 29 November, the Salon Belle Montres is being held in Paris, France. During these two days, the author of Masters of Contemporary Watchmaking, Michael Clerizo, will be signing his book. Amongst others, the 11 master watchmakers that he has written about in his book, will be attending the Salon Belle Montres in Paris as well. I reviewed Michael’s book some time ago, which you can read (again) by clicking here.

  

  This book signing is being organized by the biggest on-line watch and jewellery book retailer, called WatchPrint. WatchPrint is also the bookshop present at Baselworld, SIHH, Belles Montres Paris and EPHJ.

  Salon Belle Montres in Paris will also host a lot of other watch brands during the weekend of 27th, 28th and 29th November. What to think of A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Grönefeld, JLC, Maitres du Temps, Richard Mille, Vacheron Constantin… and more. Last but not least, Rolex will also be present on the Salon Belle Montres. A full overview of exhibitors can be found here. A big event and I wish I could be there… better luck next time.

  Related posts:

  1. Paris this week…
  2. Time for Oneself, a free book!
  3. Upcoming Panerai book