
When I first noticed the Sport Evolution watch collection a few years ago I felt as though it was Glashutte Original's take on making a fancier Rolex Submariner. While the Sport Evolution is a bit larger (by 2mm) the watches have a lot in common. Both are dive watches (though people rarely dive in either of them), though with different depth ratings (200 meters for the Sport Evolution, and 300 meters for the Submariner), have rotating bezels, nice steel bracelets, easy to read dials, and in-house made movements. Rolex of course is the leading champ among the two in terms of popularity and sales, but the Sport Evolution is a fine timepiece with a hell of an appeal to it. First, it is beautiful, very easy to live with, has more features than a Submariner, and is much more a timepiece for the watch enthusiast.
While Rolex makes its own movements, the caliber in the Submariner wouldn't really excite you to look at. While very durable and hardy, you won't find much decoration on it, or that zest that makes in-house movements so popular. Inside the Glashutte Original however, is a beautifully made and hand-decorated automatic that is visible through the well designed caseback window. It really adds a "wow factor" to the watch just to see this level of decoration on a dive style watch. Being the entry level Sport Evolution watch, the Panorama Date is fitted with a big date indicator. This complication is more... complex and desirable than Rolex's mere single disc based date indicator. The Sport Evolution further has an easy to operate micro-adjust feature for its bracelet. Newer Rolex Submariner watches are fitted with their Glide-Lock mechanism which serves the same purpose, but Rolex waiting until 2010 to place that feature in their steel Submariner models - so Glashutte Original beat them to it.

The Sport Evolution and Submariner aren't exactly competitors in the market (for the most part), but to me they are. A Glashutte watch is going to cost a little but more (from an MSRP standpoint) - but not that much more. And from a retail perspective you can probably get the Sport Evolution cheaper (and you can't really get Rolex discounts). While the Rolex is going to be a more durable watch in the long-term (most because of its legendary ability to age. along with its super hard movement), it isn't going to offer the same passionate level of ownership the sport Evolution can offer. The Rolex Submariner is a nice watch on all accords, but very common, hides no special secrets, and is very straight forward. The Sport Evolution is a connoisseurs' sport watch. Complete with a great design, movement, and appreciated horological pedigree from the popular German luxury brand. For me, the watch is like the Mercedes Benz of luxury dive watches. Totally Teutonic in character with a bold look and unforgiving style. Refined enough to be useful on a daily level, and deep-seeded with emotion that helps overcome occasional quirks in the design. In addition to this basic Panorama Date model, the Sport Evolution comes in a variety of models including, a chronograph, GMT, perpetual calendar, tourbillon, and a "sport impact" models that feature a suspended movement meant to withstand shock.
So let's get into the piece itself. I was lucky to personally acquire one of these, and pretty much adore the watch. In steel, the watch is 42mm wide, but wears big (meaning it feels a bit larger), and has one of the easiest to read dials I know of. This is due to almost perfect contrast between the hands and dial, along with large, easy to see hour indicators and hands. Some people might take issues with the blocky hands. At first I was concerned about them, given the lack of a precise tip on the minute hand, but reading it is very easy, and you can look closely to see where the middle of the minute hand is pointing. Discrete minute and seconds indicators around the periphery of the dial help with this (and also give the watch a more instrument-like look). The dial is beautiful, the black dial has a slight gloss to it and the dial has a very levels of elevation. Applied hour markers have polished steel around the edges and lume on the larger 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock indicators. They are large, and very easy to see. The ring where the hour indicators are applied slopes down a bit and has a slight concentric circle texturing to it. It is sloped to allow for the watch hands to not have to be raised to high on the dial. The chapter ring around the dial 'steps' up a bit creating an attractive slope that isn't a simple diagonal line.


Red mixes very nicely with black and steel sport watches. You can see hints of red all over the dial without the color being overpowering. The numeric minute indicators are in red as well as the tip of the seconds hand. A tasteful Glashutte Original "double G" logo serves as the counterweight on the seconds hand and adds to the positive feeling of brand value in the watch. Glashutte Original calls their big date complication "Panorama Date." It just another name they like to use. The big date indicator on the dial is nicely placed and very easy to read. Having the additional complication on the dial immediately makes this something more than "just another nice sport watch." The polish on the dial glistens in the light. I love my luxury watches to shine a bit - you need a little bling in your life sometimes. Despite the glimmer, the watch remains easy to read - very hard combination of traits to find in a timepiece.
The 42mm wide case is very well polished, with contrasting mirror polished and brushed surfaces. Note the quality looking beveled edgings on places like the lugs. There is a large screwed-on crown guard which gives the watch a more durable feel. I like how the caseback of the watch is designed and secured via screws. Screws always look good on a watch, and Glashutte Original doesn't over do it here. The wrapped lugs make the watch fit very comfortably on the wrist. Even worn loose, it has no chance of slipping around your wrist accidentally. Like all dive watches, the case has a rotating diver's bezel. There are two versions for the Sport Evolution depending on the dial color. The silvered dial has an all steel engraved bezel, while the black dialed version has a more traditional printed aluminum insert style bezel. What you like really depends on your taste. With fancy bezels including ceramic ones becoming popular these days, aluminum insert bezels are becoming less popular (as they have a tendency to scratch over time). While the engraved bezel arguably looks higher in quality, you can't get it with the black dial version of the watch that I like better. Plus, the black bezel is easier to read. The watch bezel is easy to turn with 60 sure clicks, but isn't as secure as some discerning watch lover might expect. Not a big deal though. An interesting design note has the top of the bezel near the lume top smooth without and notches for grip when turning the bezel.



Operating the Glashutte Original in-house made Caliber GO 39-42 is very nice. It winds as smoothly as an ETA 289X series movement (very smooth), and has a hack seconds function. The big date indicator features a true jumping mechanism ensuring that it will promptly switch over to the next date when the watch reaches midnight. Turn the watch over and you'll be able to see the movement. I am not going to go into every feature the caliber has. You can study Glashutte Original's website for more of that. The hand-assembled and decorated movement is just a pleasure to look at. I really like showing it off to people who are often new to fine watches. It really makes you feel as though you are holding something special when you know people slaved under microscopes to polish the stuff inside of it. The automatic rotor is engraved and skeletonized (it bears the double G brand logo), and has a segment of 21k gold in it to assist with weight. The movement is proudly made entirely in Glashutte Germany.
The bracelet on the Sport Evolution is a signature that this is a luxury watch. This Glashutte Original is not a light watches, but it is solid. A lot of the metal is in the bracelet, which features a cool gapless design. This means that you can't see your skin between the links. On the outside, you have an interesting design the hides a very complex construction. The Sport Evolution has an interesting choice of where to put polish. While the Submariner for example has always been known to have a polished middle link (well some have an all brushed bracelet, but you know what I mean) with brushed links on the outside, the Sport Evolution does the opposite of This. Thinner links on the outside have a mirror polish, while the larger inside link is brushed. It is a very fashionable choice, and purely cosmetic at this point. Look at the side of the bracelet and you'll see lots of screws that allude to the complex construction of the bracelet - which is quite comfortable on the wrist.



The bracelet deployment clasp hides an interesting micro-adjust function, that can also operated as a diver's extension. It is actually operated via a button which you might not notice. The button is the double G logo on the bottom of the clasp. The metal is fitted so closely together (good) that you could easily miss it as being something you can press down. Pushing it allows the bracelet to open and close a bit to give you a good fit on the wrist. I love these type of adjusters because they allow you to easily and quickly adjust a watch while on your wrist in order to loosen or tighten the bracelet. The deployment is a fold-over style clasp that is push button operated. Not as secure as the double locking system on a Rolex Submariner - though it feels tight enough. One little issue is that even when the deployment clasp is fully closed, its design makes it look as though it is not all the way closed as it is not entirely flush with the bracelet. This is actually necessary to allow this section of the bracelet to have flexibility, but it could have been designed a bit better in my opinion for a watch at this price.
My overall feeling about the Glashutte Original Sport Evolution watch is very positive. A beautiful watch, it is also a great timepiece. What do I mean? In a nutshell, it looks and works well. Coming from a great brand, it has a solid timeless design, and a personality that can compliment just about anyone. For me, this is an underdog winner in the luxury diver watch department - and an item easily worth saving up for. Retail price is $8,900, but can be found for less via most retailers.
See Glashutte Original Watches on eBay here.
See Glashutte Original watches on Amazon here.
| US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Hong Kong Auctions Indian Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Polish Auctions Singapore Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions UK Auctions | Best Match Time: ending soonest Time: newly listed Price: lowest first Price: highest first Price + Shipping: lowest first Price + Shipping: highest first |
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Glashutte Original Sport Evo GMT Mens Automatic Watch US $5,999.00
|
40 mm Glashutte Original Sport Chronograph 0612 B&P US $3,495.00
|
|
Glashutte Original SPORT EVOLUTION IMPACT TOURBILLON LE US $80,275.00
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NEW Glashutte Original SPORT EVO IMPACT CHRONO ~ 46mm! US $9,750.00
|
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Glashutte Original Sport Evolution Panorama Date US $5,750.00
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| 1 |
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Glashutte Original Sport Evolution Panorama Date Watch Review
Posted: May 31st, 2010, 1:01am MDT by admin

When I first noticed the Sport Evolution watch collection a few years ago I felt as though it was Glashutte Original's take on making a fancier Rolex Submariner. While the Sport Evolution is a bit larger (by 2mm) the watches have a lot in common. Both are dive watches (though people rarely dive in either of them), though with different depth ratings (200 meters for the Sport Evolution, and 300 meters for the Submariner), have rotating bezels, nice steel bracelets, easy to read dials, and in-house made movements. Rolex of course is the leading champ among the two in terms of popularity and sales, but the Sport Evolution is a fine timepiece with a hell of an appeal to it. First, it is beautiful, very easy to live with, has more features than a Submariner, and is much more a timepiece for the watch enthusiast.
While Rolex makes its own movements, the caliber in the Submariner wouldn't really excite you to look at. While very durable and hardy, you won't find much decoration on it, or that zest that makes in-house movements so popular. Inside the Glashutte Original however, is a beautifully made and hand-decorated automatic that is visible through the well designed caseback window. It really adds a "wow factor" to the watch just to see this level of decoration on a dive style watch. Being the entry level Sport Evolution watch, the Panorama Date is fitted with a big date indicator. This complication is more... complex and desirable than Rolex's mere single disc based date indicator. The Sport Evolution further has an easy to operate micro-adjust feature for its bracelet. Newer Rolex Submariner watches are fitted with their Glide-Lock mechanism which serves the same purpose, but Rolex waiting until 2010 to place that feature in their steel Submariner models - so Glashutte Original beat them to it.

The Sport Evolution and Submariner aren't exactly competitors in the market (for the most part), but to me they are. A Glashutte watch is going to cost a little but more (from an MSRP standpoint) - but not that much more. And from a retail perspective you can probably get the Sport Evolution cheaper (and you can't really get Rolex discounts). While the Rolex is going to be a more durable watch in the long-term (most because of its legendary ability to age. along with its super hard movement), it isn't going to offer the same passionate level of ownership the sport Evolution can offer. The Rolex Submariner is a nice watch on all accords, but very common, hides no special secrets, and is very straight forward. The Sport Evolution is a connoisseurs' sport watch. Complete with a great design, movement, and appreciated horological pedigree from the popular German luxury brand. For me, the watch is like the Mercedes Benz of luxury dive watches. Totally Teutonic in character with a bold look and unforgiving style. Refined enough to be useful on a daily level, and deep-seeded with emotion that helps overcome occasional quirks in the design. In addition to this basic Panorama Date model, the Sport Evolution comes in a variety of models including, a chronograph, GMT, perpetual calendar, tourbillon, and a "sport impact" models that feature a suspended movement meant to withstand shock.
So let's get into the piece itself. I was lucky to personally acquire one of these, and pretty much adore the watch. In steel, the watch is 42mm wide, but wears big (meaning it feels a bit larger), and has one of the easiest to read dials I know of. This is due to almost perfect contrast between the hands and dial, along with large, easy to see hour indicators and hands. Some people might take issues with the blocky hands. At first I was concerned about them, given the lack of a precise tip on the minute hand, but reading it is very easy, and you can look closely to see where the middle of the minute hand is pointing. Discrete minute and seconds indicators around the periphery of the dial help with this (and also give the watch a more instrument-like look). The dial is beautiful, the black dial has a slight gloss to it and the dial has a very levels of elevation. Applied hour markers have polished steel around the edges and lume on the larger 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock indicators. They are large, and very easy to see. The ring where the hour indicators are applied slopes down a bit and has a slight concentric circle texturing to it. It is sloped to allow for the watch hands to not have to be raised to high on the dial. The chapter ring around the dial 'steps' up a bit creating an attractive slope that isn't a simple diagonal line.


Red mixes very nicely with black and steel sport watches. You can see hints of red all over the dial without the color being overpowering. The numeric minute indicators are in red as well as the tip of the seconds hand. A tasteful Glashutte Original "double G" logo serves as the counterweight on the seconds hand and adds to the positive feeling of brand value in the watch. Glashutte Original calls their big date complication "Panorama Date." It just another name they like to use. The big date indicator on the dial is nicely placed and very easy to read. Having the additional complication on the dial immediately makes this something more than "just another nice sport watch." The polish on the dial glistens in the light. I love my luxury watches to shine a bit - you need a little bling in your life sometimes. Despite the glimmer, the watch remains easy to read - very hard combination of traits to find in a timepiece.
The 42mm wide case is very well polished, with contrasting mirror polished and brushed surfaces. Note the quality looking beveled edgings on places like the lugs. There is a large screwed-on crown guard which gives the watch a more durable feel. I like how the caseback of the watch is designed and secured via screws. Screws always look good on a watch, and Glashutte Original doesn't over do it here. The wrapped lugs make the watch fit very comfortably on the wrist. Even worn loose, it has no chance of slipping around your wrist accidentally. Like all dive watches, the case has a rotating diver's bezel. There are two versions for the Sport Evolution depending on the dial color. The silvered dial has an all steel engraved bezel, while the black dialed version has a more traditional printed aluminum insert style bezel. What you like really depends on your taste. With fancy bezels including ceramic ones becoming popular these days, aluminum insert bezels are becoming less popular (as they have a tendency to scratch over time). While the engraved bezel arguably looks higher in quality, you can't get it with the black dial version of the watch that I like better. Plus, the black bezel is easier to read. The watch bezel is easy to turn with 60 sure clicks, but isn't as secure as some discerning watch lover might expect. Not a big deal though. An interesting design note has the top of the bezel near the lume top smooth without and notches for grip when turning the bezel.



Operating the Glashutte Original in-house made Caliber GO 39-42 is very nice. It winds as smoothly as an ETA 289X series movement (very smooth), and has a hack seconds function. The big date indicator features a true jumping mechanism ensuring that it will promptly switch over to the next date when the watch reaches midnight. Turn the watch over and you'll be able to see the movement. I am not going to go into every feature the caliber has. You can study Glashutte Original's website for more of that. The hand-assembled and decorated movement is just a pleasure to look at. I really like showing it off to people who are often new to fine watches. It really makes you feel as though you are holding something special when you know people slaved under microscopes to polish the stuff inside of it. The automatic rotor is engraved and skeletonized (it bears the double G brand logo), and has a segment of 21k gold in it to assist with weight. The movement is proudly made entirely in Glashutte Germany.
The bracelet on the Sport Evolution is a signature that this is a luxury watch. This Glashutte Original is not a light watches, but it is solid. A lot of the metal is in the bracelet, which features a cool gapless design. This means that you can't see your skin between the links. On the outside, you have an interesting design the hides a very complex construction. The Sport Evolution has an interesting choice of where to put polish. While the Submariner for example has always been known to have a polished middle link (well some have an all brushed bracelet, but you know what I mean) with brushed links on the outside, the Sport Evolution does the opposite of This. Thinner links on the outside have a mirror polish, while the larger inside link is brushed. It is a very fashionable choice, and purely cosmetic at this point. Look at the side of the bracelet and you'll see lots of screws that allude to the complex construction of the bracelet - which is quite comfortable on the wrist.



The bracelet deployment clasp hides an interesting micro-adjust function, that can also operated as a diver's extension. It is actually operated via a button which you might not notice. The button is the double G logo on the bottom of the clasp. The metal is fitted so closely together (good) that you could easily miss it as being something you can press down. Pushing it allows the bracelet to open and close a bit to give you a good fit on the wrist. I love these type of adjusters because they allow you to easily and quickly adjust a watch while on your wrist in order to loosen or tighten the bracelet. The deployment is a fold-over style clasp that is push button operated. Not as secure as the double locking system on a Rolex Submariner - though it feels tight enough. One little issue is that even when the deployment clasp is fully closed, its design makes it look as though it is not all the way closed as it is not entirely flush with the bracelet. This is actually necessary to allow this section of the bracelet to have flexibility, but it could have been designed a bit better in my opinion for a watch at this price.
My overall feeling about the Glashutte Original Sport Evolution watch is very positive. A beautiful watch, it is also a great timepiece. What do I mean? In a nutshell, it looks and works well. Coming from a great brand, it has a solid timeless design, and a personality that can compliment just about anyone. For me, this is an underdog winner in the luxury diver watch department - and an item easily worth saving up for. Retail price is $8,900, but can be found for less via most retailers.
See Glashutte Original Watches on eBay here.
See Glashutte Original watches on Amazon here.
| US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Hong Kong Auctions Indian Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Polish Auctions Singapore Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions UK Auctions | Best Match Time: ending soonest Time: newly listed Price: lowest first Price: highest first Price + Shipping: lowest first Price + Shipping: highest first |
|
Glashutte Original Sport Evo GMT Mens Automatic Watch US $5,999.00
|
40 mm Glashutte Original Sport Chronograph 0612 B&P US $3,495.00
|
|
Glashutte Original SPORT EVOLUTION IMPACT TOURBILLON LE US $80,275.00
|
NEW Glashutte Original SPORT EVO IMPACT CHRONO ~ 46mm! US $9,750.00
|
|
Glashutte Original Sport Evolution Panorama Date US $5,750.00
|
| 1 |
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LUM-TEC Combat F1 Concept Watch
Posted: May 30th, 2010, 1:02am MDT by admin

The upmarket-ification of "America's son" watchmaker LUM-TEC may continue in full force. Some of you have expressed sadness that the brand is producing many timepieces outside of their original pricing a few years ago. It is true that the mean price for LUM-TEC watches is going up. It also true that LUM-TEC quality and watch features are also increasing. Most any "young" watch maker can't really do everything they want the first time around. Through subsequent successes LUM-TEC has been able to afford more quality components and fancy movements and materials for their watches. The result are timepieces that are closer to the dreams of the owners. In time I believe that LUM-TEC will offer a full range of watches from very reasonably priced entry level models to high-end durable watches that are "up to any task" and still look great in the process.
One example of a potential future watch for LUM-TEC is this pictured Combat F1 concept watch. It reminds me of an updated Marathon GSAR watch - if there would be such an update. The technical looking case looks like a pilot watch on steroids with a stylized, but easy to read no-nonsense dial. The case would be 44mm wide in steel with a sandblasted finish. The thick bezel would turn, and according to LUM-TEC would also turn an inner bezel, though I am not totally sure what that means at this point. The tough looking bezel matches the style of the crown. Technical looking chronograph pushers emphasize the functional character of the watch. This is continued in the many sharp angles in the design.
The dial will have mostly full Roman numeral dials with larger chronograph subdials, and a smaller subsidiary seconds subdial. You'll notice that needed hint of red on the dial as well! LUM-TEC does a great job of making functional dials that also feel really fun (but won't ever accused of being a mere whimsical watch). They are kinda of like how you feel about the design of a Jeep Wrangler. I like the contrast between the serious looking lugs and the NATO strap that the watch has.
Movement would be none other than a Swiss Valjoux 7750 automatic powering the Combat F1 one. The dial doesn't have room for the day of the week indicator, but does include the date nicely integrated within the 3 o'clock hour marker. LUM-TEC being proud of all this would have a sapphire caseback window with a personalized LUM-TEC automatic rotor - hey, maybe even some movement decoration as well. Dial of course would also be enhanced with LUM-TEC's own MDV luminant for a clear and easy to read dial in low-light conditions. Once again, LUM-TEC asserts that a good deal of US watch lovers are interested in the "tool watch" above all else. If this watch becomes a reality, I suspect the price would be in the $1,500 range at least.
See LUM-TEC watches on eBay here.
| US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Hong Kong Auctions Indian Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Polish Auctions Singapore Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions UK Auctions | Best Match Time: ending soonest Time: newly listed Price: lowest first Price: highest first Price + Shipping: lowest first Price + Shipping: highest first |
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Lum-Tec M6 Tungsten Limited Edition Watch US $650.00
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LUM-TEC Rubber strap for Bull45 also can fit M series! US $29.50
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Custom Leather Watch Strap 20mm 22mm 24mm seiko lum-tec US $95.00
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LUM-TEC Watch LZ1 LUMZILLA BRAND NEW, WARRANTY. US $500.00
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LUM-TEC Watch M19 BLACK PVD BRAND NEW, WARRANTY. US $705.00
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LUM-TEC C3 C Series 38mm Automatic PVD Watch New Model! US $470.05
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Sinn Model 243 Ti M Lady’s Watch
Posted: May 29th, 2010, 1:08am MDT by admin

Did you know that Sinn makes lady's watches? Not too many of them, but they do. They are nice pieces - not what I would call pretty, but certainly handsome. To visualize this concept I am adding an image of a Greek statue of a woman. Handsome right? Not exactly "wow she is hot." Sinn lady's watches are nicely made, easy to read, and feminine - but not girl. I think of them as being worn by some German nurse named Hilda who probably moonlights as a bartender with a permanent serious look on her face. So new for 2010 is a "mocha" version in titanium of their 243 watch collection - called the Sinn 243 Ti M.
At 28mm wide, this tonneau shaped watch has a great finish for a titanium case. The proportions are... statuesque and classic. Why titanium? Really not sure. The light metal is popular on large men's watches to make them feel lighter. Aside from being hypo-allergenic, it isn't clear to me why a small women's watch needs to be lighter. As it is, the watch is 20 grams. But Sinn likes titanium for its 243 watches, and that is the way it is. Prior to this brown dialed version coming out, the collection was around with a black dial, cream dial, and a mother of pearl dial. Those are all arguably more girly than ms. serious over here. 
Sinn watches are about function, but the 243 Ti needed a little flair. The galvanized metal dial has some gloss to it, and the rhodiumized hour markers and hands are all applied. Even though the case proportions are kind to the female demeanor, this is still a tool watch at heart. Easy to read and lume covered, this is a practical watch is there ever was one. For those ladies who shun wearing high-heels most of the time. Practical yes, but still in good taste. The sapphire crystal is AR coated on both sides for a really clear view of the dial. The tough case is 100 meters water resistant and pretty anti-magnetic, along with being low-pressure resistant (you know.. for those high altitude flights).
Inside the watch is a Swiss ETA 2671 automatic movement with a date (nicely placed in the lower center of the dial) - no quartz for these ladies! With a price around $2,000 - $2,500 these are luxury level watches that combine attractive looks and the stalwart functionality that German Sinn is known for. Aside from the brown leather strap, the watch has an available brown satin strap, or a titanium bracelet. A lot women are going to like this collection, and I think for good reason. As a guy, maybe this is a good collection to consider as a gift for certain types of women in your life. Such as a mother, sister, other close relatives, accountant, librarian, etc... The list of mature, non-romantic interest female types in your life just goes on! For a slightly sexier Sinn (a term that the brand should totally use in their marketing) check out their 456 series of women's watches.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Last Chance To Win Cadence Oarsman Hammer Watch
Posted: May 28th, 2010, 1:06pm MDT by admin
Just a few more days until the Cadence Oarsman Hammer watch giveaway right here on aBlogtoRead.com will end. Check it out, I made the giveaway post question fun - you get to "complain" for a chance to win.
Go here to quickly enter to win a new Cadence Oarsman Hammer watch.
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Richard Mille Watch Doesn’t Slow Rafael Nadal Down
Posted: May 28th, 2010, 1:57am MDT by admin

A bunch of you e-mailed me yesterday asking me to talk about the Richard Mille watch that tennis player Rafael Nadal is now wearing. That's never happened before - but since the mainstream media is all over the "weird" story, I figured I should mention that I did cover the topic on Luxist.com (where I also write daily) - sorry, you need to cover two websites now. You can see my (and only my) daily Luxist.com articles right here. I initially discussed the Richard Mille RM027 Nadal watch here.
The media is all over the Nadal story for two reasons. First, it is unusual for a tennis player to wear a watch during matches. It is well known that wearing a watch when peak agility and performance is required is usually a bad idea. Hell, I even take my watch off to type. Second, the watch costs $525,000. To most people, that concept blows their friggin' minds. It would blow my mind as well if I wasn't so detached from prices. I actually found myself yesterday saying to a friend about a certain watch: "$300,000? Naw, only like $100,000 - $200,000. It isn't too bad." At this point the prices are just numbers to me. If you can afford them, you can afford them. Anyway, over $500,000 for a watch is pretty crazy - crazy but fun. It isn't about being worth it or not, it is just a matter that an object (that isn't a bag o' diamonds) which fits in your wrist costs as much as a decent house.


So while Nadal wearing the watch while playing tennis is impressive from a performance standpoint - meaning it doesn't affect his game, it is also sort of a big "F you" to most of the viewers. Professional athletes are kind of supposed to be role models and heroes to some people. We don't idolize gladiators who cut off a lot of heads any more, but we do look up to people of peak physical condition who have cool action skills of other sorts. Kids (at least) are supposed to look up to them, and imagine that they can be like them. Lots of pro athletes didn't come from privileged backgrounds. So what does it say when Mr. Nadal wears a watch that costs more than what most people watching him play, make in 10 years of work? I'm just saying. What is a fun game of "check out where I got my watches placed" among luxury watch brand biggies, might have unforeseen lash-back affects to the entire luxury industry. Then again, it might be an indicator that pro tennis players make "that much." But of course in this case, Nadal didn't pay a penny for the watch. In fact, he is likely paid to strut around with an over half million dollar timepiece. Makes me think of revolutionary France, just a little bit... Personally I am just amused by the product placement and actually interested as the technology that makes the Richard Mille RM027 Nadal watch wearable during pro tennis.

The watch is just under 40mm wide, has a standard Richard Mille tonneau case shape, and weighs under 4 grams! That is with the strap. Inside is a complex mechanical movement with a tourbillon complication. Much of the watch is made from something called LITAL, which is a lithium aluminum alloy. There are all sort of other fancy things going on in the watch as well to help give it that under 20 grams weight (I think the movement weights under 4 grams). In the link above to my Luxist article about the RM 027 watch I discuss the movement and materials a bit more.In addition to the amazing weight of the watch - the tourbillon movement is able to flinchlessly withstand the shock, g-forces, and trauma that tennis playing will have on it. "They hit Richard Mille! Is he ok? Check the tourbillon... is it still spinning?! Medic!..." And a guy in a white watch maker's gown with loupe around his head comes running on to the court.
What is interesting, is that the Spaniard is said not to be a flashy guy at all. Aged 23, he is shy, but has been in public spotlight since a very young age. Nike for example was sponsoring him since he was 13 years old. Going from "the quiet superstar Tennis player next door" to "the guy whose game isn't at its best unless he has a wake up call from President Obama to start the day and wears a $500,000 plus watch on the court..." is a major change to his images to say the least.Oh, and sources say that like many Spanish people (they aren't the only ones known for this) - Nadal is terrible about being places on time. The RM 027 he effortlessly totes around surely won't be of help there.
Richard Mille is utterly thrilled at the new partnership. The press they are getting is enormous, and they hope to sell a few of these watches. There will be a limited edition run of 50 pieces for those who want to be like Nadal. Still, after $525,000 in the whole, you aren't gonna be any better at hitting fast moving balls. Still, the fact that the watch is being worn all the time, and can survive give Richard Mille as a brand serious street cred. Golden paved street cred that is. I didn't know Nadal was a lefty either. He is wearing the watch on his opposite wrist while he holds the racket with his left hand. This is at least in game. Very hard to tell in tennis. No watch on his main playing arm. A lefty just like me - perhaps. I better take up the game. Where is Richard Mille's number?
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Richard Mille Watch Doesn’t Slow Rafael Nadal Down
Posted: May 28th, 2010, 1:57am MDT by admin

A bunch of you e-mailed me yesterday asking me to talk about the Richard Mille watch that tennis player Rafael Nadal is now wearing. That's never happened before - but since the mainstream media is all over the "weird" story, I figured I should mention that I did cover the topic on Luxist.com (where I also write daily) - sorry, you need to cover two websites now. You can see my (and only my) daily Luxist.com articles right here. I initially discussed the Richard Mille RM027 Nadal watch here.
The media is all over the Nadal story for two reasons. First, it is unusual for a tennis player to wear a watch during matches. It is well known that wearing a watch when peak agility and performance is required is usually a bad idea. Hell, I even take my watch off to type. Second, the watch costs $525,000. To most people, that concept blows their friggin' minds. It would blow my mind as well if I wasn't so detached from prices. I actually found myself yesterday saying to a friend about a certain watch: "$300,000? Naw, only like $100,000 - $200,000. It isn't too bad." At this point the prices are just numbers to me. If you can afford them, you can afford them. Anyway, over $500,000 for a watch is pretty crazy - crazy but fun. It isn't about being worth it or not, it is just a matter that an object (that isn't a bag o' diamonds) which fits in your wrist costs as much as a decent house.


So while Nadal wearing the watch while playing tennis is impressive from a performance standpoint - meaning it doesn't effect his game, it is also sort of a big "F you" to most of the viewers. Professional athletes are kind of supposed to be role models and heroes to some people. We don't idolize gladiators who cut off a lot of heads any more, but we do look up to people of peak physical condition who have cool action skills of other sorts. Kids (at least) are supposed to look up to them, and imagine that they can be like them. Lots of pro athletes didn't come from privileged backgrounds. So what does it say when Mr. Nadal wears a watch that costs more than what most people watching him play, make in 10 years of work? I'm just saying. What is a fun game of "check out where I got my watches placed" among luxury watch brand biggies, might have unforeseen lash-back affects to the entire luxury industry. Then again, it might be an indicator that pro tennis players make "that much." But of course in this case, Nadal didn't pay a penny for the watch. In fact, he is likely paid to strut around with an over half million dollar timepiece. Makes me think of revolutionary France, just a little bit... Personally I am just amused by the product placement and actually interested as the technology that makes the Richard Mille RM027 Nadal watch wearable during pro tennis.

The watch is just under 40mm wide, has a standard Richard Mille tonneau case shape, and weighs under 4 grams! That is with the strap. Inside is a complex mechanical movement with a tourbillon complication. Much of the watch is made from something called LITAL, which is a lithium aluminum alloy. There are all sort of other fancy things going on in the watch as well to help give it that 3.83 gram weight. In the link above to my Luxist article about the RM 027 watch I discuss the movement and materials a bit more.In addition to the amazing weight of the watch - the tourbillon movement is able to flinchlessly withstand the shock, g-forces, and trauma that tennis playing will have on it. "They hit Richard Mille! Is he ok? Check the tourbillon... is it still spinning?! Medic!..." And a guy in a white watch maker's gown with loupe around his head comes running on to the court.
What is interesting, is that the Spaniard is said not to be a flashy guy at all. Aged 23, he is shy, but has been in public spotlight since a very young age. Nike for example was sponsoring him since he was 13 years old. Going from "the quiet superstar Tennis player next door" to "the guy whose game isn't at its best unless he has a wake up call from President Obama to start the day and wears a $500,000 plus watch on the court..." is a major change to his images to say the least.Oh, and sources say that like many Spanish people (they aren't the only ones known for this) - Nadal is terrible about being places on time. The RM 027 he effortlessly totes around surely won't be of help there.
Richard Mille is utterly thrilled at the new partnership. The press they are getting is enormous, and they hope to sell a few of these watches. There will be a limited edition run of 50 pieces for those who want to be like Nadal. Still, after $525,000 in the whole, you aren't gonna be any better at hitting fast moving balls. Still, the fact that the watch is being worn all the time, and can survive give Richard Mille as a brand serious street cred. Golden paved street cred that is. I didn't know Nadal was a lefty either. He is wearing the watch on his opposite wrist while he holds the racket with his left hand. This is at least in game. Very hard to tell in tennis. No watch on his main playing arm. A lefty just like me - perhaps. I better take up the game. Where is Richard Mille's number?
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Bremont Marine Clock
Posted: May 27th, 2010, 1:07am MDT by admin

"All hands on Deck! Everyone is required to meet the newest member of the crew... Gentlemen, I've called you here so that you can meet the new clock. His name is Bremont, and he is going to be our new Marine Clock aboard the ship. You are ordered to treat him like one of us. He is better looking that most of you aboard, and I say don't say this lightly - Bremont's life if probably worth more than any of yours. Perkins! Yes you. I am assigning you to Bremont maintenance and security duty. You are required to check in with Bremont to wind him each 4 weeks. You aren't allowed to forget. He is mechanical, but not perpetual. Also, and just as important - in the event the ship goes down, or we are in a some particularly nasty weather - you are to secure this life preserver around Bremont. He is water tight, but won't float. I can't afford to lose Bremont. You will value him over your, and other people's lives! Do not disappoint me...."
That is pretty much how I imagine life aboard a ship would be like for the privileged captain or ship owner that will get themselves a new Bremont Marine Clock. The first clock from the young British brand is a beauty. It is themed on the first Marine Chronometer - another English invention. John Harrison invented the marine chronometer - a very important creation that finally allowed for improved naval navigation. Check out the image of one here in the post below. This was back in the 18th century. John Harrison the clock maker, and the story behind the marine chronometer are super interesting, but a story for another day. You can learn more on Wikipedia here.


Bremont will manufacture the Marine Clock 100% in England - a fine return to English clock making, and great for the brand. While not a limited edition per se, the Marine Clock will be produced in very limited quantities, with only 10 - 15 pieces made each year. The first of which will be delivered in early 2011. The purpose of the clock is to be used as a precise and relied upon instrument aboard fine boats. On anything from classy well-kept wooden sailing ships to super yachts. Or your living room if you deem it proper. Everyone is gonna love one of these, and the clock is totally mechanical.
In addition to the time, the Marine Clock has a lot of cool functions. It will also have a power reserve indicator on the dial (very important), given that it has a power reserve of one month (it would be hell to remember when it needs to be wound without the indicator). The clock has multiple time zones - (local time, home time, and Greenwich mean time). There is a subsidiary seconds indicator for the main time - with some nice exposed gear work in an open space about the seconds subdial. The home time dial is the smaller dial with Roman numerals, while the main time uses attractive Arabic numerals. The GMT time is told in traditional 24 hour format around the the large face of the clock just as you would find on a wrist watch. Last, the Marine Clock features a special chronograph mechanism that functions as a "trip or voyage time" counter. This features can measure (using hours as units) a trip time of up to 90 days. There is a double handed counter that goes up to 90 on the outside (for the days), and has a 24 hour scale on the side (for each hour of the day).
Even though the clock needs to be manually wound - this process is said to be easy, while the clock is still water resistant. The details and beauty of the clock are all added benefits. What is important to Bremont is that the clock function as a serious functional tool. It is highly legible, using high contrast hands. Lovely used of traditional blued steel hands for the hours, minutes, and seconds. Customers who order Bremont Marine Clocks will have lots of customization options available to them. Including a variety of decorative options and colors. Bremont really wants customers to feel as though their Bremont Marine Clocks perfect fit the look and theme of their vessels. Not totally sure about size, but they are meant to be "robust" clocks. Price will be about $58,000 each for these hand-done mechanical ship clocks from Bremont. I bet a scaled down wrist watch version would do nicely as well.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Rebellion T-1000 Watch
Posted: May 26th, 2010, 1:20pm MDT by admin

Rebellion ups the power reserve ante with REB T-1000 manually wound mechanical movement in the watch with the same name (minus "REB"). Through six barrels the movement stores 1000 hours of power reserve. What I want to know is how long do you need to wind the watch, for it to go from totally unwound to fully wound? Mechanically, the movement isn't super complex. It has been specially designed to be symmetrical, which is interesting. All the "guts" are squeezed in the middle, and the balance wheel has been exposed in a unique way. It reminds me of a flattened Corum Golden Bridge movement. The real cool part of the movement is the six mainspring barrels that contain all the power, and are connected via the chain transmission. Time of course it told on the two moving cylinders. There is also said to be a power reserve indicator. An interesting exercise in mechanics and design from Rebellion. In titanium and $105,000.
See my Rebellion T-1000 watch article at Haute Living here.

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Bell & Ross Vintage BR 123 & 126 Heritage Watches
Posted: May 26th, 2010, 2:30am MDT by admin

If I could go back and add an additional watch to my Top 5 watches at Baselworld 2010, it would be this new collection from Bell & Ross. Last year, one of their hottest models was the BR01-92 Instrument Heritage (that I wrote about here). It had a new (old) type of vintage aircraft cockpit dial design and a tan leather strap that looked like it was made out of baseball glove leather. People loves the pieces, and it finalized Bell & Ross's trifecta of aircraft instrument themed watches (though there will be more I am sure). While not the subject of this article entirely, I have placed an image here of the new Bell & Ross BR03-92 Heritage watch that is in the smaller 42mm wide BR03 case, as opposed to the 46mm wide BR01 case. While the BR03 Heritage was technically announced last year, this is the first time I have seen it. One change for the BR03 Heritage is that the leather strap is free from the "branding" that the BR01 Heritage watch had.




The greater stuff is the Bell & Ross Vintage BR Heritage watches - especially the Carbon version. This is a round port of the BR03 Heritage watch in a 41mm wide round, carbon colored black case. There is also the non Carbon version, which has a 41mm wide polished steel case, and slightly different dial and hands. Each of the styles comes in 123 and 126 versions. The 123 models have three-hand automatic Swiss ETA 2892 movements, while the 126 models have modified ETA automatic chronograph 2894 movements. I wrote about the Bell & Ross Vintage BR 123 & 126 Heritages watches on AskMen.com here.
Each has deliciously simple dials that ooze style and restrained masculine good taste. My top pick if the Vintage BR Heritage 123 Carbon. Amazingly comfy and bold dial that to me feels like a fresh alternative to many Panerai watches. Just a simple thing like putting the watch in a round case did so much. Note the vintage style curved edge sapphire crystal. The combo of the matte black light, tan colored leather is excellent.






In addition to taking from the BR Heritage collection, these watches have a lot of influence from the pre-BR01 Bell & Ross collection of watches. Consider what you see here as a combo of Bell & Ross old and new (even the names are like mashups). Design and case styles came from the older Bell & Ross Vintage (123 and 126), as well as the Geneva (123 and 126 models). While not exactly like Rolex (and certainly not as well), Bell & Ross is adopting a design theory that encourages retaining a core brand look and making very minor design changes over time, as opposed to coming out with wild new mainstream models. Bell & Ross certainly has their avant grade innovative stuff, but they are keeping their main selling watches closely connected in demeanor.
This new collection feels very wearable, likable, and tasteful. Few people will not like these watches, a lot of that has to do with the fact that Bell & Ross ensures each timepiece is highly readable. These are (like the names imply) instruments, meant for telling us information. Though I am a bit irritated that the names are a bit confusing and redundant sounding. Do you really need "vintage" and "heritage" in the same name? Never the less, these pieces are clear winners for Bell & Ross. Nothing too crazy, just good looking watches, that aren't too expensive, immediately wearable, and really just more of what people already like. I certainly want one. UPDATE: Price for the Bell & Ross Vintage BR 123 is $2,900 and price for the Vintage BR 126 Heritage is $4,200.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Chouette Rock Candy The Beast Lady’s Watch Review
Posted: May 24th, 2010, 1:21am MDT by admin

Before you even begin to ask yourself the question, this is a woman's watch. Sure a guy can wear it. Take away the pink hands, and you pretty much have a men's watch. With a large 45mm wide black case, spiky looking bezel, and chunky look, nothing say's "chick" about it. Then again, it does have pink hands. This watch is part punk rock watch for women, and part "I want to wear my boyfriend's stuff" look. No one can deny that Rock Candy's "The Beast" is a very masculine watch. Good for the woman who wants a tough exterior look and is happily swept away by 'big watch trend' that exists for ladies as well. Rock Candy is a Hong Kong based fashion brand - done by another brand called Chouette. I don't know much about the two, but I understand that in Hong Kong, they are sort of a big deal.
The Beast watch is actually part of a duo collection called "Beauty and the Beast." I wrote about both of these watches initially here. While the Beauty is covered with lots of crystal for a more "glam" look, the Beast is more of a "slam" look. Tough girl demeanor with a hint of femininity in the pink hands. Though the fashion statement also assists with legibility. the pink hands stick out so well that you can't claim to not be able and see them. While the rest of the watch is all "black on black" there are still hour indicators on the dial. Rock Candy ensures that the watch can easily be used... as a watch. Hour indicators on the dial are a bit shinier than the more matte face, and make for a cool look.



The black color coated steel case is actually made nicely. Smooth lines are only broken up by a black colored Swarovski crystal cabochon in the crown. Then you of course have the bezel - which is lined with a ring of pyramid-shaped spikes. Perfect to go with that spiked dog collar style necklace you've been looking to wear. The back of the watch has an engraved caseback with the Rock Candy and Chouette logos. You also get the number of the watch in the limited edition of pieces.
As a limited edition, both the Beast and the Beauty will have 300 pieces each. I think it increases the appeal of the watch by knowing it isn't for the mass market. With such a limited amount of them, you'll probably the only one you ever meet with this cool looking limited edition timepiece.




Rock Candy fitted the watch with a really nice thick rubber strap. Each side of the strap has a different emblem logo applied. One for Rock Candy, and the other for Chouette. Makes for a cool look. The rubber strap is comfy and has a butterfly style deployment clasp. It does use one of those "cut to size" straps that I am not a fan of. Meaning that once you size it, you can't ever make it larger. Being such a large sized watch, I have to ask myself if it is too big for the type of wrist it might be worn on in Hong Kong. it is arguably too large for many American women's wrists as well. So sizing it to be snug is possible, but I recommend the watch for women with larger wrists.
Then again, if you are guy who likes the watch, I can't tell you to abstain from getting it. It is a perfectly interesting piece for a man who likes.. a little pink in his life. "Salmon" color shirt anyone? The right man could conceivably pull this watch off - though I'm not advocating that the Rock Candy The Beast watch be part of any dude's specific summer wardrobe. The brazen lady is probably the best contender to pull of thus punchy timepiece - and for her, this is a very unique and cool piece. Inside the watch is a Japanese quartz movement. Price for the Rock Candy The Beast watch is about $640. Not a horrible price for a unique looking limited edition watch that actually does do fringe fashion well - though on the expensive side if you are just looking for some fun. Not everyone will love the piece, but the right people will immediately connect with the design. I wouldn't have reviewed it if I didn't think it would garner positive attention on the right wrists.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Frederique Constant Healey Chrono Automatic Watch For 2010
Posted: May 24th, 2010, 1:11am MDT by admin

For a few years now Frederique Constant has been in cahoots with the UK based Healey Challenge. An annual race operated by the Healey Drivers Club. What does Frederique Constant get do in this scene? Well make special limited edition watches that might be of interesting ti the Healey divers. I actually wrote about their last offering here, the most basic Frederique Constant Austin Healey watch. That was a three-handed model where this is a chronograph. Really when I think of race or motorcar themed watches, they have chronograph mechanisms. Thankfully Frederique Constant didn't insert the passe tachymetre scale on the bezel. Finally someone realizes that not all car oriented watches have to look like an Omega Speedmaster or Tag Heuer Carrera.
While lots of classic car lovers are familiar with Austin Healey and cars, like the 3000 (below) and the Sprite, I would say that a club that races the cars and are dedicated only to them is the very definition of Niche. The brand has been "no longer" for a long time and it is interesting to consider a dedicated group of people that year after year obsess over the same cars. Still they are a fun bunch of little roadsters that certainly help remind of a time back in the 1950s and 1960s when small sporty cars were a European specialty. While the special limited edition Frederique Constant Healey Chrono Automatic is made for the small club, there are going to 1,888 pieces available in each version. Meaning that the brand wants more than just a few people to pick this piece us. Good thing that the watch styling is handsome enough for plenty of people to get into them.


In a 43mm wide case, the watch comes in a classic looking polished steel or rose gold plated case. To me, the styling of the case feels reminiscent of the headlight assembly (especially the metal frame) on the car. See what I mean? Style is handsome, functional, utterly conservative, with a tiny little sense of being avant garde - very British, even though it was made and designed by the Swiss. Fans of classic race themed watches will feel right at home with this timepieces.
While this isn't the first year for the Healey Chrono Automatic watch, this year it comes with a special guest. Apparently, when you buy the watch, you get a hand-made stopwatch (which Frederique Constant called a "stoptimer"). Yes, I know the watch itself already has one of those, but how often to you get the chance to get a mechanical stopwatch that isn't found in a state sponsored sale of items from your local public school's athletic department after much needed modernizing.



I cropped the images of the watches here based on images Frederique Constant sent me, but the originals had the watches draped and hanging off a beautifully polished Austin Healey like it was the body of a woman. The perfect accessory next to goggles and driving gloves for the car? Sure. Like I said about the previous models, these are watches that have a character that actually fits with that thing they are said to be in honor of. The watch dial, with its large applied Arabic numerals and dagger hands also has a logo of the UK Healey Challenge race.
Inside the watch is a Swiss Valjoux 7750 automatic with the dated moved to the lower center of the dial. The steel version has a silvered dial while the rose gold plated version has a "chocolate dial." Each is matched to a portholed leather strap and comes in a cool box with the 'stoptimer.' Not totally sure about price, but it will be in the $3,000 - $4,000 range.
See Frederique Constant watches on eBay here.
See Frederique Constant watches on Amazon here.
| US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Hong Kong Auctions Indian Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Polish Auctions Singapore Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions UK Auctions | Best Match Time: ending soonest Time: newly listed Price: lowest first Price: highest first Price + Shipping: lowest first Price + Shipping: highest first |
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Austin Healey 3000,Mini Cooper,Sprite,carburator Kit US $49.95
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AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 REAR AXLE SHAFTS AND HOUSING RARE! US $175.00
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AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 - LIGHT BLUE US $4.95
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AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 - RED US $4.95
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AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 - WHITE US $4.95
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AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 BRAKE SERVO MANIFOLD FITTING NEW OE US $15.00
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Perrelet Diamond Flower Prestige Edition Ladies Watches
Posted: May 23rd, 2010, 1:00pm MDT by admin
Given that whole "if money were no object" thing, one of the my top choices for modern women's watches is the Perrelet Diamond Flower. It mixes sport, style, complexity, luxury, and visual fun so well. While the collection starts in the $10,000 range, these limited Prestige Edition Diamond Flower watches are colorful creations with prices in the $35,000 to over $100,000 range (depending on the mixture of gold, diamonds, and other precious gems). It is one of those rare fun luxury watches that is elegant but doesn't take itself too seriously. Don't forget that the Diamond Flower features Perrelet's P-181 automatic double rotor movement. So the lotus flower on the dial spins with the automatic rotor in the back. Check out the gallery below for more of them, and see my full article on them below as well.
See my Perrelet Diamond Flower Prestige Edition watches article on Haute Living here.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com
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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Juan Pablo Montoya Watch Available On James List
Posted: May 23rd, 2010, 1:05am MDT by admin

Audemars Piguet is pissed. If you've been watching the brand for the last 10 years or so, you'd notice a lot of Formula 1 themed limited edition watches in the Royal Oak Offshore collection. Seeing them could easily lead you to believe that Audemars Piguet (AP) and F1 has some type of bond. And recently that relationship ended. Hublot - yet again- took out from under AP's noses, a valuable sponsorship including that with F1. Audemars Piguet is still pissed about it. While it will take a lot time before Hublot can match the movement quality and consumer perception of AP, they are quickly nabbing up partnerships that AP was one proud and secure in having.
But let's not think about right now. Let's look back in the past a bit. Back to when AP was in solid ties with Formula 1, and the limited edition models as a consequence of that partnership poured like gasoline in those thirsty big engines. This is one of the children of that relationship. In the past I spoke about the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Rubens Barichello II limited edition watch. It actually shares a lot in common with this Juan Pablo Montoya limited edition pieces. Both the men were of course race car drivers at the time. Compare the two and you can see the AP designers were thoughtful of advancing this design theme. 
The Royal Oak Offhsore Juan Pablo Montoya two variants coming in titanium or gold. I believe it came out in 2002, during the time when Mr. Montoya was doing quick well in the F1 scene. Please be aware that this is of the most highly sought after Audemars Piguet limited edition Formula 1 watches. Actually, one of the most collectible limited edition Royal Oak Offshore pieces out there at all. Basically that means it is one of the few that is available and prices more than it likely retailed for about 8 years ago. 1000 pieces in titanium, and 500 pieces in rose gold. It is no coincidence that the race car driver's name sounds like he is a drug lord. He is after all Colombian. If I had one of the watches, I would just let people think AP made it for a very special, very persuasive client in South America. The watch chronograph hands are in the colors of the Colombian flag, and there is an interesting variation to the standard "mega tapisserie" dial textures. In the middle, the pattern changes to look like a race track curve, a bit like a flag, or perhaps the Microsoft Windows logo (surely the latter).



The 44-45mm wide case came in titanium or steel and was made in the 'carbon fiber' era (as I call it). In terms of case size, I am not totally sure, but I think the gold model was a bit larger than the titanium model. The bezel on the top and sides are all inlaid nicely with carbon fiber. This also applied to the chronograph pusher housings on sides of the watch. The chronograph pushers on this model were originally meant to look like gas pedals, but have since been used so much that forget their original theme. I love the woven stitching on the alligator strap. Supposed to look like a racing suit, but (especially on the titanium model) reminds me of a Spiderman web. I believe the crown is meant to look a bit like an F1 car gas cap.
Inside the watch, and visible through the sapphire caseback window is an Audemars Piguet in-house made Calibre 2226/2840 automatic chronograph movement. Good stuff - just what to expect from AP. As a limited edition watch, I am surprised that this one actually did it's job of being highly collectible and valuable. Too many limited edition pieces in the watch world pretty much killed that promise for most of them out there. Pricing these days on the Audemars Piguet Royal Offshore Juan Pablo Montoya limited edition timepieces run about $40,000 in titanium and about $75,000 (figures online). Not sure of recent auction results. This is pretty amazing given the pieces. Chalk it up to good design, and remembrance of a time when Formula 1 belonged to Audemars Piguet.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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HourTime Show Watch Podcast Episode 24
Posted: May 22nd, 2010, 1:00pm MDT by admin
A good show about Jaeger-LeCoultre, Reactor, Bremont, and our upcoming trip to Vegas. Possibly some audio issues on my side. I can't explain that. When the big bucks come in, so will our updated engineering side of HourTime.
Listen to the HourTime Show watch podcast episode 24 here.
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Book Review: 12 Faces Of Time: Horological Virtuosos
Posted: May 22nd, 2010, 1:40am MDT by admin

As a watch writer I need to admit that most writing about watches bores my pants off. There are legions of books on the subject of watches and I can barley resist just flipping through them to look at the pictures only. Most of these are written by super dedicated watch nerds that they abhor the idea of "dumbing down" their hobby so as to be legible. Their dissertation style text on the subject of watches should be highly accurate, extremely thorough, and painfully inane to read. Only those people who have a serious need for the information will ever get through the vast majority of watch books out there. Which leaves two types of watch books I will read. First are ones with lots of diagrams and captions to make them clear. These lack the need to delve into deeply technical paragraphs without too much visual aids. Second are lighter reads that bring you into the watch world a bit, without really being a book on watch making or design per se.

12 (Twelve) Face of Time: Horological Virtuosos is the latter type of book - a solid example there of. The large hardcover shell and large size are deceptive. This isn't a complex tome, but rather a friendly coffee table style book that offers a glimpse into a world that creates items of passion for a large population of collectors. In fact, like the timepieces and timepiece makers it depicts, the book is an artistic work unto itself. The idea of the book is to give you just a small view of the life and working space of 12 different high-end independent watch makers who are highly respected. The book is not really about their individual pieces, technical styles, or a summary of their work. It is instead like reading a made for TV documentary about these men and what they do. 12 Faces of Time incorporates the following 12 horological virtuosos:
1. Philippe Dufour
2. Vianney Halter
3. Felix Baumgartner
4.Thomas Prescher
5. Volker Vyskocil
6. Paul Gerber
7. Beat Haldimann
8. Dr. Ludwig Oechslin
9. Kari Voutilainen
10. Roger Smith
11. François-Paul Journe
12. Kenji Shiohara


The above men are all geniuses in their own right. Mostly highly private people who aren't associated with major watch groups. And if they are, they have their own little areas of work where they can slowly pursue their mechanical and artistic craft. Author (and friend) Elizabeth Doerr does an amicable job of offering accessible content for the casual or new watch lover. Or perhaps the seasoned enthusiast who is tired of convoluted language that doesn't get to the point. The refreshing book is laid-out in a way that text boxes are friendly looking, and sparsely placed among the minimalist pages. A top-tier graphic design team was actually hired to arrange the layout. The book feels very much designer in spirit, with an interesting and experimental take on offering information in easy to ingest, nugget sized chunks of information. Unlike most coffee table style books, 12 Faces of Time is one that you could easily get all the way through and feel like you actually got something out of it. The result is a glimpse into certain worlds, giving you the option of delving deeper on your own. The books doesn't want to be a complete review of these men, but rather to introduce you to the men behind the watches.
The Internet, or attention deficit generation will easily be able to access the book. Flipping pages comes often, without the need to attack chunks of text like it was a chore. Many people will find the sparsely populated pages troubling in comparison to magazines for example that attempt to fill each inch with content and graphics. The team; Doerr and photographer Ralf Baumgarten, among others, make for a unique book with writing that is not intimidating, and images that are artistic and thought out. The written content is meaningful as well as accessible - bringing together Doer's long career of writing about the watch industry from almost a first person perspective. This is as close a look as you might get to a watch maker's world, not actually written by a watch maker.

Also included are lots of quotes. Being an introduction to the watch makers, use of their own statements effectively gets you to know them a bit. The ideal reader of 12 Faces of Time will be familiar with at least a few of the watch makers, and/or some of the watches that they have created. Novices to the area of interest will find things to look at as well, but the books is most satisfying to people already primed in horological virtues, before meeting the horological virtuosos.
A few things about the book could have been altered for my personal taste. Then again, the book is an artistic statement - so it is not my place to question the team's vision. I quite like the unorthodox layout. I find it visually easy to look at, accessible, and artistic. What I would have liked are color printed pages. I understand that black and white was specially chosen over color, but as a detail hungry individual, I wanted to see more. Sure certain images are more dramatic in black and white, but that does not mean that the entire book needed to be sans colors. At the same time, the book is full of all original photography. Most watch books simply have prepared images provided by watch brands. The paper choice could have been altered as well. While the chosen paper in the book isn't cheap, I tend to prefer thicker, high gloss images and pages in such publications. Once again, the choice of paper was specific decision agreed on by the team in the interest of being different and standing out. Though none of these are issues that should significantly detract one's interest to get the book to whose who enjoy the topics therein. Understand that it is more like a captioned yearbook, rather than a technical or product guide. 12 Face of Time: Horological virtuosos is priced close to $100 ($95). A bit Pricey, but if you are already a watch lover and engage in this passion, you know that satisfaction comes at a price. With the right expectations, 12 Faces of Time is an enjoyable supplement to your interest in watches.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Book Review: 12 Faces Of Time: Horological Virtuosos
Posted: May 22nd, 2010, 1:40am MDT by admin

As a watch writer I need to admit that most writing about watches bores my pants off. There are legions of books on the subject of watches and I can barley resist just flipping through them to look at the pictures only. Most of these are written by super dedicated watch nerds that they abhor the idea of "dumbing down" their hobby so as to be legible. Their dissertation style text on the subject of watches should be highly accurate, extremely thorough, and painfully inane to read. Only those people who have a serious need for the information will ever get through the vast majority of watch books out there. Which leaves two types of watch books I will read. First are ones with lots of diagrams and captions to make them clear. These lack the need to delve into deeply technical paragraphs without too much visual aids. Second are lighter reads that bring you into the watch world a bit, without really being a book on watch making or design per se.

12 (Twelve) Face of Time: Horological Virtuosos is the latter type of book. The large hardcover shell and large size are deceptive. This isn't a complex tome, but rather a friendly coffee table style book that offers a glimpse into a world that creates items of passion for a large population of collectors. The idea of the book is to give you just a small view of the life and working space of 12 different high-end independent watch makers who are highly respected. The book is not really about their individual pieces, technical styles, or a summary of their work. It is instead like reading a made for TV documentary about these men and what they do. 12 Faces of Time incorporates the following 12 horological virtuosos:
1. Philippe Dufour
2. Vianney Halter
3. Felix Baumgartner
4.Thomas Prescher
5. Volker Vyskocil
6. Paul Gerber
7. Beat Haldimann
8. Dr. Ludwig Oechslin
9. Kari Voutilainen
10. Roger Smith
11. François-Paul Journe
12. Kenji Shiohara


The above men are all geniuses in their own right. Mostly highly private people who aren't associated with major watch groups. And if they are, they have their own little areas of work where they can slowly pursue their mechanical and artistic craft. Author (and friend) Elizabeth Doerr does an amicable job of offering accessible content for the casual or new watch lover. Or perhaps the seasoned enthusiast who is tired of convoluted language that doesn't get to the point. The refreshing book is laid-out in a way that text boxes are friendly looking, and sparsely placed among the minimalist pages. The book feels very much designer in spirit, with an interesting and experimental take on offering information in easy to ingest, nugget sized chunks of information. Unlike most coffee table style books, 12 Faces of Time is one that you could easily get all the way through and feel like you actually got something out of it. The result is a glimpse into certain worlds, giving you the option of delving deeper on your own. The books doesn't want to be a complete review of these men, but rather to introduce you to the men behind the watches.
The Internet, or attention deficit generation will easily be able to access the book. Flipping pages comes often, without the need to attack chunks of text like it was a chore. Many people will find the sparsely populated pages troubling in comparison to magazines for example that attempt to fill each inch with content and graphics. Working with a limited budget and team, Doerr and photographer Ralf Baumgarten make for a unique book with writing that is not intimidating, and images that are artistic.

Also included are lots of quotes. Being an introduction to the watch makers, use of their own statements effectively gets you to know them a bit. The ideal reader of 12 Faces of Time will be familiar with at least a few of the watch makers, and/or some of the watches that they have created. Novices to the area of interest will find things to look at as well, but the books is most satisfying to people already primed in horological virtues, before meeting the horological virtuosos.
There are a few things that could have been improved in the book. The limited budget and people-power behind the creation of the book led to the unorthodox layout that I actually like. I find it visually easy to look at, accessible, and artistic. What I would have liked are color printed pages. The book is in black and white, which I think detracts a bit from presentation. Sure certain images are more dramatic in black and white, but that does not mean that the entire book needed to be sans colors. The paper quality of the book could have been upgraded a bit as well. These quips wouldn't necessarily be worth mentioning, save for the retail price of almost $100 ($95). In the end, I recommend the read if my summary of its style appeals to you. Understand that it is more like a captioned yearbook, than a technical or product guide. With the right expectations, 12 Faces of Time is an enjoyable supplement to your interest in watches.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Breguet Reine de Naples With Hour-Strike Ladies Watch
Posted: May 21st, 2010, 12:38pm MDT by admin

Please enjoy the original article below by established watch writer Meehna Goldsmith. From magazines to the freer writing form of the web, she is a knowledgeable watch junkie who knows high-end pieces. She contributes to publications such as Robb Report, International Watch, Watch Journal among others. You can visit her on her website www.meehnagoldsmith.com.
In the history of watchmaking, the name Breguet is a hallowed one. Abraham-Louis Breguet, who established his eponymous company in 1775, is single-handedly responsible for many of the major horological innovations of the last two-plus centuries, including the Breguet overcoil, tourbillon, keyless works and automatic winding. Even more impressive is that those innovations are still employed today, over 200 years after their introduction.
That company Breguet founded has operated virtually uninterrupted since its inception, but by 1999, after several ownership changes, the brand was languishing. The watches being produced were laughably overpriced and certainly not worthy of bearing the Breguet signature. What was once a premier marque, signifying exclusivity and quality, now turned out mediocre product that wasn’t of interest to connoisseurs or consumers. That’s when Nicolas Hayek, the Grand Poobah of the Swatch Group, swooped in to purchase the company and its subsidiaries with the intention of dusting off the brand and burnishing it to a modern glory.
The Swatch Group made a fortune selling battery-powered plastic watches; now Hayek wanted respect and legitimacy in haute horlogerie. Breguet was to be the crown jewel in the portfolio that includes Blancpain, Glashutte and Jacquet Droz. Now that you’ve got the quick history, let’s take a look how Breguet is doing, specifically with this new Reine de Naples Hour Strike.

The current Reine de Naples line of watches is inspired by the watch Abraham-Louis Breguet created for Napoleon Bonaparte's sister Caroline, Queen of Naples. In honor of the 200th anniversary of the original, Breguet has introduced a Grande Complication to the collection called the automatic strike. Every hour, two hammers located in apertures at 11 and 1 o’clock remind the wearer that another hour has passed with a double strike, which is repeated three times. Breguet has done a variation of what is called sonnerie en passant, a passing strike that chimes once on the hour.
I love watches that talk to me. I find them not only charming but practical as well. The complication originates from the era before electric lighting left us is its constant glare. At night or in low light situations, if the time couldn’t be seen, it could be heard.
With time racing by at such a lighting pace in our modern world, the striking Reine de Naples is a subtle nudge to remind us of the passing hours. If you’d prefer to lose yourself in the moment, the watch provides that option too. A pushpiece at 2 o’clock sets and deactivates the strike function.

While I adore the idea of this watch, the characteristic egg shape of the Reine de Naples doesn’t entirely appeal to me in this form. There’s something lopsided about the design to my eye. I prefer the aesthetics of the Reine de Naples when the top half of the egg is balanced out by the moonphase and power reserve. Nonetheless, I can’t quibble with the parts (natural mother-of-pearl dial, white gold fluted caseband and diamond set bezel), even though the whole doesn’t completely sum up for me.
Turn over the watch and you’ve got my pulse jumping. One of the signs of high watchmaking is when the movement fits into the case like a hand slipping into a perfectly tailored glove. Breguet designed the automatic egg-shaped movement specifically to cozy up in this space. What’s so breathtaking is that the movement, visible through a sapphire crystal, is an artistic as well as mechanical achievement. The bridges and oscillating weight form an image of a dove, with the design extending to the engraving on the case. As you can tell I’m more entranced with the back of the watch than the front.
I haven’t heard the watch strike in person so I can’t comment on the acoustics. Breguet pride themselves on putting a lot of time and resources into technical achievements so I can safely presume the watch sounds great.
I like that Breguet is taking women seriously and produced a high complication for us. They weren’t entirely brave though because they hedged their bets by packing on the diamonds There are ~3cts on the bezel, ~.14cts on the folding clasp, and another ~.26cts from the one set in the crown, which is reflected in the hefty $139,800 retail price.
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Maitres du Temps Chapter One Round Watch
Posted: May 21st, 2010, 1:09am MDT by admin


Even some of Maitres du Temps' dream team of designers didn't think this could be done. How do you take a watch like the Chapter One with its top and bottom mounted cylinders and make it round? The tonneau shaped version is large enough as it is. You might be able to make it square, but round? It just didn't make sense. Still... they did it. Make the watch dial and central part of the case round, and extend the lug segments. Voila! Aside from the shape and style, the Chapter One Round watch has the same movement and functions as the standard Chapter One watch, which I wrote about initially here (more technical), and shared after a hands-on treatment here. Though the Chapter One Round is part of a more limited, limited edition of just 11 pieces, and more expensive than the standard Chapter One. It also retains my favorite part of the Chapter One watch, which are the cool security pushers with the 'slide-then push in' action.
Simply calling the watch a round version of the Chapter One doesn't really tell the full story. It dramatically changes the character of the Chapter One as well. I previously suggested that the Maitres du Temps Chapter One, in its highly ornate formal attire, looked as though it was destined to be in a museum where future generations could admire it. The Chapter One Round is more sporty, easier to read, and less aristocratic in poise. It is the athletic brother of the Chapter One. Maybe even a brute of brother. Like the Chapter One, the Chapter One Round is a big ol' watch. Try 59mm wide by 62mm tall on your wrist. It is 22mm thick at that. All that gold and other metal on your wrist and you'll get an arm bulky with muscle as well if you wear it around enough. That isn't to say the watch is unwearable, but if you are the type of person that whines about watches being too big or too heavy, I think a small vintage Cartier would be a better choice for you. I just had a vision of putting a small vintage Cartier next to the Chapter One Round and comparing the size and weight. Literally a shrew next to a bear. That would be amusing.







The watch dial on the Chapter One Round has most literally been 'rounded out.' It has a more mainstream look to it now, that comes with being easier to read. Lume on the hands make them contrast with the dial better, and the match with the hour markers. These replace Roman numeral hour markers on the original. While not as grand looking, the Chapter One Round's dial is easier to read. Which includes the time as well as the other functions, such as the date, GMT hand, and the mono-pusher chronograph. Don't forget the exposed tourbillon on the dial either. If the dial feels a tad lacking in emotion, the watch case certainly does not. You see designers Christophe Claret and Peter Speake-Marin really shine here. To me, the design looks like a real melding of both of their personalities. I think the aluminum cylinder rollers for the moon phase and day of the week were integrated very nicely. Exaggerated angles and robust looking features all over the case give it a proud look. It is also curved to fit over your wrist.
Turn the watch over and you see a vision that reminds you of the Chapter One again. The hexagonal sapphire caseback window displays a familiar, and highly decorated manually wound Caliber SHC-02 mechanical movement (made by Christophe Claret). Given the greater diversity of angles, I think that the caseback as a whole on the Chapter One Round is more attractive than on the Chapter One. Chapter One Round case is in 18k rose gold, uses 96 parts (just in the case), and is hand finished. These extremely expensive to make watches are hard to make in quantities - which begins to explain the number of pieces in the limited edition. While the Chapter One was closer to $400,000 in price, the Chapter One Round goes for $495,000, and you better put your order in now if you want one.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Top 10 Graduation Watches
Posted: May 20th, 2010, 6:43pm MDT by admin
AskMen.com wanted me to come up with a list of "top 10 graduation watches." This wasn't easy, but I do know that a good graduation watches should be conservative, tasteful, perfect for the first job interview, and also be a sentimental item you can keep for a long time. So I can up with list of mid to entry level luxury watches for most budgets. Timeless watches that he will appreciate as a new grad and years down the road.
Read my Top 10 Graduation watches on AskMen.com here.
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Volna Volnatomic Watches Are Radioactive Art
Posted: May 20th, 2010, 1:07am MDT by admin

Vonlatomic is a special collection of watches for the Volna watch brand by talented watch design Yvan Arpa. I've discussed Mr. Artya at length because I respect his masculine, artistic approach to watch design. The careful designer spends a lot of time thinking about the best way to execute his wild ideas. His work feels very much like an extension of himself. Each watch being something he himself would proudly wear - truly art for the artist. Many people don't like Yvan's creations.It is easy to be mystified by though behind it pop-art style, or sometimes just plain weird watches. Though most passionate artists tend to attract a degree of controversy when it comes to the tastefulness or appeal of their work. For Yvan, timepieces are a palette - the medium through which he likes to create.
Yvan's past laurels include designing the Titanic DNA and Moon Dust DNA collection watches for Romain Jerome, starting the Black Belt watch brand, and earlier, being one of the key designers at Hublot when the now iconic Big Bang come out. Currently Yvan ones the Artya watch brand, and works with Volna on this collection. The Volnatomic collection is all about putting Yvan's touch on Volna's theme of having watches that are thematically related to Russian submarines. For Yvan, the most interesting part of submarines as applied to timepieces if their atomic power. He was inspired by this in creating the Volnatomic collection of watches that look like something Roy Lichtenstein might wear. At the top of the collection is the wonderfully artistic Volnatomic Tourbillon watch, which is seen here, but I first wrote about it on Luxist here.



I sat down with Yvan to have him show me the new collection of Volnatomic watches. Please note that these are prototypes, and it isn't clear which will reach production and what changes will be made. The collection is all in Volna's watch case style that is in PVD black steel and 46.5mm wide (and 50 meters water resistant). The bezels are interesting because the black and yellow colors (if applicable to the style) are really bold. They are designed to last as well - not merely being paint. They are actually a complex mixture between ceramic and I think either lacquer or enamel. Apparently they are a pain in the ass to make, but come out looking pretty good.
Each watch has an interesting and often clean looking dial. The hands on each are quite easy to read as well, often due to high contrast. Without hour markers not all of the watches are a breeze to read, but these are more art type watches that serve to tell the time - and they look pretty cool while doing so. Liking the Volnatomic collection doesn't come naturally to everyone. Fans of the designs like the watches the say way you like a tattoo. You either just want one or you don't. It is sometimes hard to explain why. Yvan has a way of making things that look simple, but no one else has done it. While his creations don't emanate "complexity" they aren't obvious either.


The collection will initially have a few pieces with a couple of different movements. In addition to the wild looking tourbillon, there is the Volnatomic Radioactive (Yellow and Black models pictured at the top), Volnatomic Crime Scene, Volnatomic Atomic Central (central seconds indicator in shape of atomic symbol), and possibly others when the final models are released. Each watch has a Swiss automatic movement - not sure which though, but I know that the Volnatomic has a Dubois Depraz movement with a big date and small seconds indicator. Also, the Volnatomic Tourbillon movement is made by Concepto.
Europeans will understand one of the imagery plays on the dial, though it will need to be explained to others. Many of the pieces have a skull and cross bones image on the dial, along with a little picture of a man running and an arrow. This latter image is the European international symbol for "Exit." Thus, the idea is to communicate that if and when there is an atomic disaster (or personal disaster), you are in danger and should run. It is tantamount to wearing some type of "WARNING" label on your wrist. According to Arpa, it is like wearing something that is symbolic for "forbidden" on your wrist - that you carry around with you.


I really like the implementation of the caseback window. There is a sapphire crystal over with a skull and crossbones shape in it that is over another rotating disc with the atomic symbol on it. That disc is attached to the automatic rotor and moves around creating a fun image to watch of moving black and yellow color under a skull shaped window. The watches are on comfy rubber straps - with yellow or black stitching (for style).
Personally I like some of the models enough that I would gladly wear them when I am in the mood for such a bold and fun piece. I think something like this has the potential of being a real fashion icon. Yvan isn't trying to make ripples in the world of haute horology, but rather offering fun pieces of wearable watch art that have a masculine edge, and are highly original. Price for the main Volnatomic collection is going to be several thousand dollars each.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comNo related posts.
Porsche Design P’6780 Diver Watch Is Hand Me Down Eterna
Posted: May 19th, 2010, 1:03am MDT by admin

When I visited the Porsche Design booth at Baselworld 2010 I was pretty amused to see the new P'6780 Diver watch cause it looked pretty familiar. In fact, just a few years ago Eterna released a watch that was almost identical, called the Eterna KonTiki Diver. I really loved about that piece and wrote about it here. Why was it that somehow the Eterna KonTiki Diver was now a simplified Porsche Design watch?
For starters you should know that Eterna makes all the watches for Porsche Design. So it seemed pretty clear that this was a deliberate move, meant to erase the history of the KonTiki Diver! If you compare the two watches, the Porsche Design P'678 Diver is a bit more simple, streamlined, and hopefully a bit less expensive. The KonTiki Diver retailed for bout $10,000. Though it had a ton of cool technology. The complex titanium case flipped out of a cage for winding and for a new position on the wrist. It just felt totally space age. Also, you needed to pull out the inner case so as to move the bezel - that while you operated from the outside, turned on the inside. Powering the the 1000 meter KonTiki Diver watch was an automatic ETA 2897 movement with the time, date, and power reserve indicator. It was pretty kick-ass. So what happened? Well apparently Eterna didn't sell a lot of them. According to them, the watch "didn't fit into the brand." Most people don't really know about Eterna, especially in the US. If they do, they likely have some vague concept of the brand's merits, even though it is a great brand. They actually started ETA before selling it to the Swatch Group.



So the Eterna KonTiki Diver disappeared. If you want one, I am sure there are excellent deals for them online. Probably close to half off the retail price. Like I said, with the power reserve indicator, COSC Chronometer certification, and arguably a more useful dial design, I like the Eterna version a bit more. We can ponder why the over-engineered watch didn't do super well for the brand. I think it was a sleeper hit. The reality is that the watch has now been re-birthed as a Porsche Design P'6780 - like it or not.
For the most part the watch is the same, but with little cosmetic changes. The movement is now an automatic ETA 2892, and it has not been Chronometer certified. I sort of miss the power reserve indicator. The design has been streamlined a bit. Probably better for casual wear, but worse for hardcore diving duty. The black, while, and yellow dial tones are nice, but I think the hands are a bit too stubby - make them longer! The 46.8mm wide titanium case is mixed with some steel parts, and you can see the large pushers on the side of the case to release in the inner section. These pushers are much larger than those on the Eterna KonTiki Diver. The case has also been streamlined a bit. It looks a bit less technical than the Eterna. It has that usual Porsche Design level of smooth refinement. The Eterna on the other hand looked more like an instrument. Like the KonTiki Diver, you will need to raise the inner case out of the shell to move the bezel. This is a security mechanism to ensure it doesn't get moved around inadvertently. Raising the inner case also makes it easier to wind the movement if you like, and makes it possible to adjust the watch. The strap on the watch is a high grade caoutchouc rubber.



If you think about it, Porsche Design diver's watches are rare. In fact, this is only the brand's second dive watch. The first was the Ocean 2000, and that was made by IWC and came out in the early 1980s. That was a really fantastic watch actually. Of course, the Porsche Design Diver is something totally different compared to the previous diver from almost 30 years ago.
While it was perhaps smart for Eterna to salvage the KonTiki Diver by exporting it to Porsche Design, it means that the watch is not something entirely new from Porsche Design. Call it recycling, or reusing, or simply rebranding, it doesn't really much matter if you like the watch. I hope that the retail price reflects the position of the watch though in comparison to the Eterna. While the Porsche Design name is worth more on a watch then the Eterna name, this is a slightly down-graded watch, so if they charged more than the Eterna KonTiki Diver, it just wouldn't feel right. Look for the Porsche Design P'6780 Diver watch this summer.
See Eterna & Porsche Design watches on eBay here.
See Porsche Design watches on Amazon here.
| US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Hong Kong Auctions Indian Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Polish Auctions Singapore Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions UK Auctions | Best Match Time: ending soonest Time: newly listed Price: lowest first Price: highest first Price + Shipping: lowest first Price + Shipping: highest first |
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PORSCHE DESIGN P6612 TITANIUM CHRONOGRAPH MEN'S WATCH US $1,425.00
|
Ultimate Watch Scratch Removal Kit for Porsche Design US $107.97
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Porsche Design Dashboard P'6612 Chronograph Automatic US $3,225.00
|
Porsche Design Flat Six P’6340 Automatic Chronograph US $1,500.00
|
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NOS IWC Porsche Design World Time Reiseuhr Watch US $3,250.00
|
Porsche Design P'6612 Automatic Chrono Titanium/Rubber US $960.00
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| View Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 |
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Alpina 12 Hours Of Sebring GMT Chrono Watch
Posted: May 18th, 2010, 1:38pm MDT by admin

2010 is the second year of Alpina being the official timekeeper for the storied 12 Hours of Sebring race in Florida. The manufacturer celebrated this partnership with the production of a limited edition, two-timezone chronograph creatively called the 12 Hours of Sebring Automatic Chrono GMT. The watch is strongly influenced by style elements of race cars. This concept, unless overdone like in several AP Offshores, works fantastically. The sporty, yet subtle style and quality specs of this watch appealed to me when I first received the press release but playing with the actual timepiece at Baselworld 2010 was when I really got to appreciate it.
Perhaps the most distinctive element of Alpina watches is the Extreme Avalanche cases. The big, rubber-clad crown and thick, flat bezel make are adept for a larger size case. This explains why most Alpinas today are between 45 and 48mm in diameter, and why the 42mm models are eyed mostly by women. The 12 Hours of Sebring Chronograph spans 47mm on the wrist. The shape of the case is a mix of tonneau, and pillow with a generous dose of modern, angular sculpting. The crown-protecting shoulders are indicative of an Alpina watch. On Alpina chronographs, streamlined pushers replace the shoulders. One detail of the Sebring Chrono's PVD coated, stainless steel case that I find particularly noteworthy are the black, luminescent markings on the bezel. Overall the lines of the Avalanche Extreme give the impression that the watch is as aerodynamic as a Lamborghini.


The 12 Hours of Sebring is an international race. American, European, and Asian automakers compete. This aspect is captured by the Alpina 12 Hours of Sebring GMT Chronograph by a second timezone that is displayed on a 24-hour inner bezel. Alpina takes advantage of a lucky coincidence to provide a more meaningful connection between the watch and the race. The ETA 7750 chronograph movement that powers the timepiece is configured by default to measure 12 hour intervals. This is represented on the dial by the chronograph's hour indicator at six o'clock, which sports a symbolic red twelve. The white, photo-luminescent numeral hour markers are reminiscent of a tachometer. While I am not too strong on themed watches, the 12HoSGC does a good job at keeping the references very subtle.
Continuing with the race car parallel, the strap of Alpina's GMT Chronograph captures the luscious and exotic interiors of luxury sports cars. The exterior shell is covered with synthetic fabric that is imprinted with a carbon-fiber-like pattern. It would be nice if some veritable fiber mesh fabric was used to achieve this effect, but if my experience with capricious coramid straps is any indication, this route may actually have been too fragile. The underside of the strap is made of naturally grained, red leather which matches the red stitching and the the numerous red details on the dial. A folding, "depolyante" clasp is fitted to the strap and decorated with black PVD and Alpina engravings.



The back of the watch exhibits the Alpina AL-750 calibre movement through a sapphire crystal. The AL-750 is a modified ETA 7750 ébauche, which offers automatic winding, a 42 hour power reserve, and unbeatable reliability. The black rotor is finished and engraved at the Alpina manufacturing facilities. Alpina is very strong on finishing movements, which does not surprise me since they are a manufacture, able to build movements from the ground up. On a side note, Alpina watches are big consumers of wonderful Sellita movements, so I would not be surprised that Sellita's new SW-500 chrono caliber replaces the 7750 in future versions of Alpina chronographs.
The Alpina 12 Hours of Sebring GMT Chrono extracts a lot of its personality from the world of sports cars, but it does so without becoming a kitschy, themed watch. Had it been released as a regular part of the Alpina line, many may not even have noticed its link to automotive racing. Like a black Audi R9 or a Lamborghini Murcielago, it captures the spirit of the racetrack in a street-ready package.
Written by Marco, who sells Alpina Watches at Matt Baily.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 Watch Hands-On
Posted: May 18th, 2010, 1:03am MDT by admin

Have you ever laid your eyes upon a beautiful women that a feeling much like loves sets in right away - only to be quickly followed by dismay knowing she is so out of your league you might as well be a different species? This feeling of frustrated lust is akin to what I felt when handling the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 watch at SIHH 2010 last January. The piece is quite possibly a bona-fide member of the league of extraordinary watches (an group of action hero timepieces that exists in my head). The fantastic timepieces boasts a wild though functional design, appealing features, and a lots of technical merits that only a brand like Jaeger-LeCoultre can think up and execute.
The watch is almost too cool for any mere human. It isn't about being a technical masterpiece or winning a beauty pageant - but the collective feelings of its design and features combined with its mere presence. The watch actually comes in two varieties and has two movements (though they have only one difference each). The first version of the watch is made from a special titanium alloy called TiVan15, mixed with ceramic. That version contains the Caliber 781 movement, while the 18k pink gold version (as handled by me) has the 780 movement. The differences in the movements? The 781 has a special antimagnetic property, while the 780 does not. The rose gold version costs more of course, but not too much more. Though, while I say this, I must temper it with the statement that these are expensive watches. Think, "Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 watch.... or new Jaguar automobile?" So the reason for my frustration is that the watches are not so ludicrously out of the field of affordability that I may never be able to afford one (i.e. a half million dollar Richard Mille watch), but rather that if the time comes that I can afford $60,000 on something, spending it on a watch would more than likely be unwise. And by that point what crazy timepiece will be available that I lust for?
The design of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 watch case is more science fiction that science - though the watch is designed to be worn on the most demanding of scientific expeditions. The case is 46.8mm wide and water resistant to 100 meters. The extremely complex construction has materials sandwiched between other materials, with some ceramic thrown in the mix. The design feels purposeful and reassuring it is quality. Indented areas on the side of the case add to the complexity of the design and a feeling that the watch is a serious device more complex than you ought to understand. The case is actually really light for its size - especially the titanium version. I love the look of it, and the ceramic bezel is a factor that will help reduce visual wear and tear (as ceramic is really hard to scratch). I just love the look of the case - it is masculine, feels sturdy, is totally unique, and gives the watch a fantastic character.


Jaeger-LeCoultre designed the watch with an easy to remove strap. It comes with two straps actually. An alligator and rubber one, and a calf leather strap. The case has a special easy release system for removing the strap. You can't really tell, but the rear of the watch has these little flaps that you pull up and release the strap. It is very easy to use, and ensures that the straps won't come off while you wear the watch. The complex looking buckle has a neat little micro-adjust system in it. This makes is possible to adjust the strap a bit while it is on your wrist. Quite cool, and I have never seen a more complexly engineer buckle on a strap that wasn't a deployment. The buckle uses two pins for added security.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre designed and manufactures Caliber 781 and 780 movements are very impressive. Most of the bridges are in black and the design of the movement is very modern. No more superman watches, with super vintage looking movements inside. Jaeger-LeCoultre knows how to keep mechanical fresh. The movement has a 60 hour power reserve, and some impressive specs that you can learn about below. It also has a ton of functions. Aside from the time (with a subsidiary seconds dial that double as the chronograph hour indicator), it has a 24 hour chronograph with digital minute counter, centrally placed GMT hand, date, and unique peripheral power reserve indicator. The crown also features a unique function selector. The crown is not pulled out, but rather has a built in pusher than controls one of three functions (winding, GMT adjustment, time adjustment). Pushing the button in the crown cycles between the three, and you always know what you are doing because there is a crown function indicator on the dial dear the date window at 3 o'clock.


Even though the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 dial is partially skeletonized, it is easy to read. The Master Compressor style Arabic numeral hour indicators are applied and lume filled, and the hour hands are easy to read. There is a stubby centrally located second time zone hand. It is a bit harder to read, but still is pretty legible. Actually the second time zone is done via two hands. A centrally located 12 hour hand, combined with the subdial at 6 o'clock that is used to indicator the time on the 24 hour scale. It helps by adding an AM/PM indicator, and allowing you to precisely read the second time zone. Really clever design by Jaeger-LeCoultre. The watch has a new type of power reserve indicator that is easy to miss as you won't be used to is placement. Look at the top half of the chapter ring. In the images I took the 0 - 60 scale has a white strip through it as the watch is fully wound. That strip turns to red as the power reserve runs down. Check out the bottom image to see what I mean. It allows an "at a glance" reading of the power reserve, without adding significantly to the dial. Jaeger-LeCoultre calls it a "Radial Power Reserve" indicator.
The chronograph is a big deal on the watch, and I love it. It is column wheel based, and used a vertical clutch for fast activation time. The chronograph runs for 24 hours and the left subdial switches from telling the time subseconds to the chronograph hours when it is activated. The chrono seconds are indicated via a central hand, while the minutes are displayed through a jumping digital counter located at 12 o'clock. Very slick, and makes using the chronograph a breeze.

On the left side of the watch case is a peculiar slider. I wondered for a while what it did until I found out. It is a manually operated stop seconds lever. You know when you adjust most mechanical watches and the seconds hand stops when you pull out the crown? This watch doesn't do that because it can screw up the time when you need to adjust the watch. But Jaeger-LeCoultre wanted to give you the ability to do that if you need to adjust the watch with precision. Thus, when you are setting the time, you can slide the lever down to stop the seconds, and slide it back up again to start them. Again, a pretty nifty feature in an already "packed with glory" timepiece.
It is already clear that I love this watch. I will more than likely never get the chance to get one. In addition to my lack of being able to shell out either $53,700 for the titanium version or $67,400 for the pink gold version, the watches are limited to just 300 and 200 pieces respectively. So I can lust, and I can dream - and I can hope that one of you out there gets one of these and brags to me how awesome it is.


Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 Technical Specs from Jaeger-LeCoultre:
Movement:
Mechanical automatic Calibres 780 und 781, developed and manufactured by Jaeger-LeCoultre
Parts: 569 (Calibre 780), 566 (Calibre 781),
Diameter: 33.8 millimeters,
Height: 9.8 millimeters,
Power Reserve: 60 hours with one barrel,
Base plate made of nickel,
Antimagnetic up to 240 Gauss (Calibre 781),
Test: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 1000 hours test
Functions:
Hours, minutes, and small second’s hand (as function indication),
Second time zone (with 24 hours counter) adjustable in hour-steps, date,
Independent second’s stop,
Function selector,
Chronograph with digital minute display,
Semicircular radial power reserve indication
Chronograph:
Digital jumping minute counter with two discs,
Central second’s hand,
Accuracy: up to 1/8 of a second,
Counting up to 24 hours,
Column wheel mechanism,
Vertical clutch system,
Two pushbuttons with rubber-covered, L-shaped security arms
Function selector:
Ceramic crown with integrated pushbutton to select three functions via column wheel:
1) winding; 2) setting of date and second time zone; 3) setting the time
Escapement:
Beat rate: 28,800 half-beats per hour,
Large balance wheel with a moment of inertia of 1.5 mg cm2 and variable inertia screws,
Balance bridge: fixed to two support points, stud held by two screws,
Protection device for limitation of the hairspring movement,
Escapement made of amagnetic silicium (Calibre 781)
Automatic winding:
Unidirectional automatic winding to up to 60 hours of power reserve, depicted by semicircular
radial power reserve indication,
Rotor: mounted on lubrication free ceramic ball bearings,
Shape: rotor mass made of platinum, held by three arms
Case:
Dual-Ring-Case: Sandwich structured case with carrier-chassis and movement container,
Components: 143,
Black zirconium ceramic bezel,
Sapphire glass on front and back,
Zirconium-ceramic crown,
Movement-container made of TiVan15 (exclusively used by Jaeger-LeCoultre),
Chassis materials: TiVan15 (Calibre 781) or 18 carat red gold (Calibre 780),
Diameter: 46.8 millimeters,
Height: 16.5 millimeters,
Pushbuttons with L-shaped security arms and rubber cover
Dial and Hands:
Open worked dial with bridges in black PVD coating and different areas highlighting specific functions,
Luminescent indexes,
Newly formed skeleton hands,
Hands antimagnetic (Calibre 781)
Strap and buckle:
Double Alligator leather strap,
New integrated system to change the bracelet,
New adjustable double pin buckle fixed in two positions,
Strap secured through two attachment points with further adjustment in three positions
References:
TiVan15 version (Calibre 781): Q203T470 - $53,700
Red gold version (Calibre 780): Q2032470 - $67,400
Related posts:
- SIHH 2009 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Navy SEALs Watch Collection The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor collection was already strong, but this...
- Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Automatic Navy SEALs Watch I was really excited about this watch when I...
- Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica Grande Sonnerie, Thoughts On The Most Complicated Watch In The World After writing a few articles about this watch I...
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 Watch Hands-On
Posted: May 18th, 2010, 1:03am MDT by admin

Have you ever laid your eyes upon a beautiful women that a feeling much like loves sets in right away - only to be quickly followed by dismay knowing she is so out of your league you might as well be a different species? This feeling of frustrated lust is akin to what I felt when handling the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 watch at SIHH 2010 last January. The piece is quite possibly a bona-fide member of the league of extraordinary watches (an group of action hero timepieces that exists in my head). The fantastic timepieces boasts a wild though functional design, appealing features, and a lots of technical merits that only a brand like Jaeger-LeCoultre can think up and execute.
The watch is almost too cool for any mere human. It isn't about being a technical masterpiece or winning a beauty pageant - but the collective feelings of its design and features combined with its mere presence. The watch actually comes in two varieties and has two movements (though they have only one difference each). The first version of the watch is made from a special titanium alloy called TiVan15, mixed with ceramic. That version contains the Caliber 781 movement, while the 18k pink gold version (as handled by me) has the 780 movement. The differences in the movements? The 781 has a special antimagnetic property, while the 780 does not. The rose gold version costs more of course, but not too much more. Though, while I say this, I must temper it with the statement that these are expensive watches. Think, "Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 watch.... or new Jaguar automobile?" So the reason for my frustration is that the watches are not so ludicrously out of the field of affordability that I may never be able to afford one (i.e. a half million dollar Richard Mille watch), but rather that if the time comes that I can afford $60,000 on something, spending it on a watch would more than likely be unwise. And by that point what crazy timepiece will be available that I lust for?
The design of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 watch case is more science fiction that science - though the watch is designed to be worn on the most demanding of scientific expeditions. The case is 46.8mm wide and water resistant to 100 meters. The extremely complex construction has materials sandwiched between other materials, with some ceramic thrown in the mix. The design feels purposeful and reassuring it is quality. Indented areas on the side of the case add to the complexity of the design and a feeling that the watch is a serious device more complex than you ought to understand. The case is actually really light for its size - especially the titanium version. I love the look of it, and the ceramic bezel is a factor that will help reduce visual wear and tear (as ceramic is really hard to scratch). I just love the look of the case - it is masculine, feels sturdy, is totally unique, and gives the watch a fantastic character.


Jaeger-LeCoultre designed the watch with an easy to remove strap. It comes with two straps actually. An alligator and rubber one, and a calf leather strap. The case has a special easy release system for removing the strap. You can't really tell, but the rear of the watch has these little flaps that you pull up and release the strap. It is very easy to use, and ensures that the straps won't come off while you wear the watch. The complex looking buckle has a neat little micro-adjust system in it. This makes is possible to adjust the strap a bit while it is on your wrist. Quite cool, and I have never seen a more complexly engineer buckle on a strap that wasn't a deployment. The buckle uses two pins for added security.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre designed and manufactures Caliber 781 and 780 movements are very impressive. Most of the bridges are in black and the design of the movement is very modern. No more superman watches, with super vintage looking movements inside. Jaeger-LeCoultre knows how to keep mechanical fresh. The movement has a 60 hour power reserve, and some impressive specs that you can learn about below. It also has a ton of functions. Aside from the time (with a subsidiary seconds dial that double as the chronograph hour indicator), it has a 24 hour chronograph with digital minute counter, centrally placed GMT hand, date, and unique peripheral power reserve indicator. The crown also features a unique function selector. The crown is not pulled out, but rather has a built in pusher than controls one of three functions (winding, GMT adjustment, time adjustment). Pushing the button in the crown cycles between the three, and you always know what you are doing because there is a crown function indicator on the dial dear the date window at 3 o'clock.


Even though the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 dial is partially skeletonized, it is easy to read. The Master Compressor style Arabic numeral hour indicators are applied and lume filled, and the hour hands are easy to read. There is a stubby centrally located second time zone hand. It is a bit harder to read, but still is pretty legible. Actually the second time zone is done via two hands. A centrally located 12 hour hand, combined with the subdial at 6 o'clock that is used to indicator the time on the 24 hour scale. It helps by adding an AM/PM indicator, and allowing you to precisely read the second time zone. Really clever design by Jaeger-LeCoultre. The watch has a new type of power reserve indicator that is easy to miss as you won't be used to is placement. Look at the top half of the chapter ring. In the images I took the 0 - 60 scale has a white strip through it as the watch is fully wound. That strip turns to red as the power reserve runs down. Check out the bottom image to see what I mean. It allows an "at a glance" reading of the power reserve, without adding significantly to the dial. Jaeger-LeCoultre calls it a "Radial Power Reserve" indicator.
The chronograph is a big deal on the watch, and I love it. It is column wheel based, and used a vertical clutch for fast activation time. The chronograph runs for 24 hours and the left subdial switches from telling the time subseconds to the chronograph hours when it is activated. The chrono seconds are indicated via a central hand, while the minutes are displayed through a jumping digital counter located at 12 o'clock. Very slick, and makes using the chronograph a breeze.

On the left side of the watch case is a peculiar slider. I wondered for a while what it did until I found out. It is a manually operated stop seconds lever. You know when you adjust most mechanical watches and the seconds hand stops when you pull out the crown? This watch doesn't do that because it can screw up the time when you need to adjust the watch. But Jaeger-LeCoultre wanted to give you the ability to do that if you need to adjust the watch with precision. Thus, when you are setting the time, you can slide the lever down to stop the seconds, and slide it back up again to start them. Again, a pretty nifty feature in an already "packed with glory" timepiece.
It is already clear that I love this watch. I will more than likely never get the chance to get one. In addition to my lack of being able to shell out either $53,700 for the titanium version or $67,400 for the pink gold version, the watches are limited to just 300 and 200 pieces respectively. So I can lust, and I can dream - and I can hope that one of you out there gets one of these and brags to me how awesome it is.


Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 Technical Specs from Jaeger-LeCoultre:
Movement:
Mechanical automatic Calibres 780 und 781, developed and manufactured by Jaeger-LeCoultre
Parts: 569 (Calibre 780), 566 (Calibre 781),
Diameter: 33.8 millimeters,
Height: 9.8 millimeters,
Power Reserve: 60 hours with one barrel,
Base plate made of nickel,
Antimagnetic up to 240 Gauss (Calibre 781),
Test: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 1000 hours test
Functions:
Hours, minutes, and small second’s hand (as function indication),
Second time zone (with 24 hours counter) adjustable in hour-steps, date,
Independent second’s stop,
Function selector,
Chronograph with digital minute display,
Semicircular radial power reserve indication
Chronograph:
Digital jumping minute counter with two discs,
Central second’s hand,
Accuracy: up to 1/8 of a second,
Counting up to 24 hours,
Column wheel mechanism,
Vertical clutch system,
Two pushbuttons with rubber-covered, L-shaped security arms
Function selector:
Ceramic crown with integrated pushbutton to select three functions via column wheel:
1) winding; 2) setting of date and second time zone; 3) setting the time
Escapement:
Beat rate: 28,800 half-beats per hour,
Large balance wheel with a moment of inertia of 1.5 mg cm2 and variable inertia screws,
Balance bridge: fixed to two support points, stud held by two screws,
Protection device for limitation of the hairspring movement,
Escapement made of amagnetic silicium (Calibre 781)
Automatic winding:
Unidirectional automatic winding to up to 60 hours of power reserve, depicted by semicircular
radial power reserve indication,
Rotor: mounted on lubrication free ceramic ball bearings,
Shape: rotor mass made of platinum, held by three arms
Case:
Dual-Ring-Case: Sandwich structured case with carrier-chassis and movement container,
Components: 143,
Black zirconium ceramic bezel,
Sapphire glass on front and back,
Zirconium-ceramic crown,
Movement-container made of TiVan15 (exclusively used by Jaeger-LeCoultre),
Chassis materials: TiVan15 (Calibre 781) or 18 carat red gold (Calibre 780),
Diameter: 46.8 millimeters,
Height: 16.5 millimeters,
Pushbuttons with L-shaped security arms and rubber cover
Dial and Hands:
Open worked dial with bridges in black PVD coating and different areas highlighting specific functions,
Luminescent indexes,
Newly formed skeleton hands,
Hands antimagnetic (Calibre 781)
Strap and buckle:
Double Alligator leather strap,
New integrated system to change the bracelet,
New adjustable double pin buckle fixed in two positions,
Strap secured through two attachment points with further adjustment in three positions
References:
TiVan15 version (Calibre 781): Q203T470 - $53,700
Red gold version (Calibre 780): Q2032470 - $67,400
Related posts:
- SIHH 2009 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Navy SEALs Watch Collection The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor collection was already strong, but this...
- Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Automatic Navy SEALs Watch I was really excited about this watch when I...
- Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica Grande Sonnerie, Thoughts On The Most Complicated Watch In The World After writing a few articles about this watch I...
- Time For A Classic: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duo Watch The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of the most classic...
U-Boat U 1001 Limited Edition Watch Review
Posted: May 17th, 2010, 1:01am MDT by admin

U-Boat watches are a lot like classic American Muscle cars - expect for the American part that is. They are big, made with lots of metal, have cool designs on them, and make you feel good being around them. At the same time, they aren't very practical, don't always have what they look like they should under their hoods, and aren't the most comfortable machines to use on a daily basis. Italo Fontana's U-Boat brand has come very far since being a pure fashion brand of big watches with a design scheme that vaguely resembles its namesake German submarines. Public love and strong sales led to quality improvements for the brand and a series of designs so often copied, "original" U-Boat watches are a watch lover favorite and status symbol in the right circles.
U-Boat's momentum is only held back by its new designs and ability to continue to squeeze juice out of its theme. While there is a sweet spot case size and design for the brand, they have gone a good way beyond that a number of times - specially done for those who need a fresh fix of wild designs. Like a dress made specially for a model to show-off during a runway show only, this limited edition U-Boat U 1001 watch is a bold fashion item that has many hallmarks of being something function, but falls just short of actually being that. This isn't to say the U 1001 isn't a watch or doesn't function well as one, but rather that it has some rugged features that are sort of misplaced on an "image" watch such as this.
Wearing the U 1001 I feel pretty cool. I don't know if this is because I keep hearing the cool music that U-Boat has on their website and pondering the sophisticated marketing campaigns they employ, or if I am genuinely moved by their clever designs. It is funny, because no matter how many silly things I find in the watch, I still like it. Which goes back to my concept of it being like a muscle car. It is totally unwise for me to think about driving in stop and go California traffic in that dream '69 GTO Judge, but I think I would look pretty kick ass in the process.






Speaking of big metal cars, the U-Boat U 1001 is a whopping 55mm wide in titanium. The metal case is cut very well, and the titanium has a very smooth bead-blasted feel to it. All over the case are branding details and information about the watch. Read the back and the sides of the watch to learn just about everything you'd like to know about it. The U 1001 name refers to the fact that it is water resistant to 1001 meters. Basically it is the same as a 1000 meter diving watch, but they decided to add another meter to the title. Watches are usually tested a bit beyond their stated water resistance, so adding that extra meter doesn't mean anything from a technical standpoint - all part of the built -in depth rating wiggle room. The watch is also limited to 1001 pieces (333 or so pieces of each color), and is available with a variety of colors trims for the dial. Here you have a lovely blue for the hand and some of the hour indicator. While the chic looking dial design, complete with the name of the watch is hip looking, it is pretty a-functional for diving purposes - given that this is a diving themed watches. U-Boat released the U 1001 watch completely devoid of lume, as omission from what have been a great looking watch in the dark.
It has more features for diving such as the helium escape valve beneath the crown, but again, how can you go diving in a watch that you can't really see underwater? Perhaps it is good for the sunny clear water of the topics. In that case, dive deep my friends. Speaking of the helium release valve, the quality and finish of the large connected crown cap and the surrounding parts is very good. Well machined, and each operates as they should without problem. I am happy to see that for the price of this watch U-Boat ensured high quality throughout the watch. Cause in the end, even if the watch is functionally silly, it is still well made and designed nicely. Under the super large crown cap is the actual crown - which is tiny in comparison. The crown cap screws down, and so does the crown. I just found that sort of humorous. So much water resistance security!




The dial of the watch is matte black with the blue hour indicators on a layer below the dial. You see an expose synthetic ruby from the movement - that is a hallmark of many U-Boat watches. The placement of the diagonally aligned date window shows you how small the movement is in the super big case. Inside the watch is a Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic. A solid movement perfect for a dive watch, but perhaps a bit too petite for this case (and perhaps a bit too inexpensive for a watch that is over $6,000).
The watch has an adjustable rubber strap that has a titanium end piece on one side - which has a good style and makes the giant watch wearable. You can see the U-Boat name engraving on the butterfly style deployment also in titanium. Again you see the U 1001 logo on the deployment as well - indicating U-Boat's desire to show you how many custom parts went into this limited edition collection of watches.




Does the U-Boat U 1001 remind you of an Angler fish? It doesn't have a illuminated lure like the fish does. It isn't ugly like the fish, but it goes deep like the fish. Though I think an Angler fish can go much deeper. Angler fishes look pretty bad-ass and butt-faced, but they are actually really small fishes, did you know that? Size can be deceiving. It would probably swim away from a U 1001 if it saw it underwater as the watch might be larger than it! For style like a tattoo, U-Boat engraved an Angler fish on the rear of the watch as well as on the crazy watch case (I will get to that). It is a nice little touch that is all style, without having a lot of meaning. Cool image though.
And now the case. The big and heavy (really heavy) case contraption that almost makes the watch feel worth its price. Made from aluminum, the case looks like a diving vessel itself. Again you see an engraving of the Angler fish on it, and a thick porthole with a rounded crystal lens where the watch sits and stare at you as though it is safe while you are in the ocean. It is a serious part of the timepiece's presentation, and U-Boat makes you feel pretty darn special to have received this thing. I've never had a more lasting impression of a watch's presentation box. I think it must have cost U-Boat almost as much as the watch itself to make.
For the privilege of having one of these limited edition fashionable watches from U-Boat, you'll need about $6,800 and a lot of gumption. Fans of the brand will easily gobble them up, and people who want the wow people like it was 2005 will also be attracted to the U 1001. Does it make for a fun addition to your collection sure? Is it a pain to wear daily and offer limited functionality? Yes. For all the crap I give this watch, I still really like toting it around on my wrist, and get particularly stylish in the process, even if I didn't know why.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Bell & Ross BR 01-92 Radar Limited Edition Watch
Posted: May 16th, 2010, 1:27pm MDT by admin

The below article was written by contributor Marco, who sells Bell & Ross watches.
By now, most people that know of it know that the Bell & Ross BR-01 watch was conceived to look like the instruments in an airplane cockpit – namely the altimeter or other similar analog gauges. Airplanes necessitate plenty of gadgets to run, however, so Bell & Ross has taken their Instrument idea and extended it to include an other important element of flight instrumentation – the Radar. The BR01 Radar will be produced in a limited edition of 500 pieces. It displays the time using three discs, each marked with a happily colored line to indicates a unit of time. This configuration emulates the sweeping light beam of the radar screen, but more importantly it creates a unique and fun look for enthusiasts of the BR-01 92.
The dial of the BR-01 Radar is what makes this watch peculiar. The traditional hands that point out the time have been replaced by three discs that are marked with colored lines. These discs, simple as they may be, actually took some tinkering with before becoming functional. This is because each disc is much heavier than the traditional hand that it replaces. Bell & Ross' desire for perfection creates further problems for its engineers and watchmakers, because of the high level of precision necessary to assure that all three discs are perfectly aligned on the same plane, and that each gap between them is uniform and parallel. The original delivery date predicted by Bell & Ross had to be pushed back due to these technical challenges. [Ed. note - this watch was supposed to come out a while ago (last year), but these technical problems made it such that additional engineering was required to make it Bell & Rossable!)
While I am not exactly sure what the two axes represent on an actual radar screen, on the BR-01 Radar they are used as minute and hour makers with each graduation overlapping its respective indicators. The rest of the hours or 5-minute increments are marked at the perimeter of the crystal. The time is clear and easy to read once one gets over the initial shock of the dial's peculiarity.
Aside from the dial, the rest of the Radar watch is a pretty straightforward BR-01 92 Carbon. It runs on a modified ETA 2892-A2 automatic calibre, which offers a power reserve of roughly 42 hours and benefits from the use of 21 jewels. The square case is 46mm wide and is fitted with a sapphire crystal and screw-locking crown. Its water resistance rating is 100 meters. Finally, thanks to removable lugs and specialized tools that come with the watch, you can also configure the BR-01 Radar as an automatic winding desk clock provided you have the Bell & Ross desk stand.

The limited edition Bell & Ross BR-01 Radar is collectible and different. As much as it is a serious, high-quality timepiece, its colorful indicators and peculiar arrangement make wearing the Radar enjoyable and fun. Like several of Bell & Ross' latest limited edition BR-01s, the Radar is not a watch for everyone, but perfect for some [Ed. note - some-one].
Written by Marco who sells Bell & Ross watches at Matt Baily.
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J-B Viot “In Paris” Watch
Posted: May 16th, 2010, 2:33am MDT by admin


Real watch maker (who epitomizes watch makers), makes real independent hand-made watch (that epitomizes indy hand-made watches). That is Jean-Baptiste Viot and his "à Paris" (In Paris) watch. It is a pretty fantastic creation and I would first like to thank Francois-Xavier Overstake of the French watch blog Equation du Temps for permission to show you these images of the J-B Viot In Paris watch that he took. Aside from the highest image, all photography credit goes to him for the below images. Lucky him to be in France to get a hold of all that he does.
The pictured watch from 2008 is a prototype. I believe that by now J-B Viot offers a retail version of the In Paris watch, of course all made by him and highly limited. He has a few interesting philosophies as a watch maker that make him a very practical person. Although his designs are pretty avant garde, he reject use of experimental materials and techniques that can leave watches fragile or unfixable by other watch makers.


This all makes sense as Viot himself is in the business of watch restoration. You see a lot of classic machine techniques and materials. While I am not yet so much a movement buff to understand what makes a movement style "French" the movement in the A Paris watch is supposed to reflect the style of French watch makers. Suffice it to say that Viot makes all his own movements by hand in his shop. The watch is in a 38mm wide case that can be customized in terms of materials. Viot uses German silver, brass, gold, and steel for the movement. These same metals are also used in the case, and the style depends on what the customer wants.
Style of the watch and the movement are unlike anything I've come across before. J-B Viot does a great job of using different materials to highlight and bring out the various elements of the dial. A chapter ring with hour and minute indicators make it easier to tell the time via the long and thin arrow tipped hands. the watch also have a subsidiary seconds dial. Almost Jules Verne-esque in style (also French), the skeletonized design of the dial and watch is both classic and modern - with a satisfying "timeless quality to it." It maintains that unceasing interest we feel when looking at clockwork creations. Those blued steel plates of the dial are just really are great aren't they? I also like how a little blue rod is used as the balance cock.

Lastly is the image of J-B Viot's as of then uncompleted Double Pendulum clock. A large piece unique project of his that takes me to an Alice and Wonderland world. Like a mix between and old style mirror and armoire, the large clock is an incredible feat of hand-made engineering and craftsmanship. I look forward to seeing a J-B Viot a Paris watch myself eventually. Until then it is (almost) good enough to have pictures. Price for the watch is apparently 26,000 euros.
Once again, most images here are the property of Francois-Xavier Overstake, and used on permission.
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Greubel Forsey’s Private Room in Hong Kong
Posted: May 15th, 2010, 3:11pm MDT by Robert-Jan
Greubel Forsey is renowned for their impressive tourbillon timepieces, especially the Quadruple Tourbillon made a huge impression last year. This timepiece was even honoured as the ‘Best Complicated Watch’ during the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Asia on the 25th of September in 2009, hosted in Singapore. Now, Greubel Forsey opened a dedicated ‘private room’ for their timepieces [...] Related posts:
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Sinn 142 St II GZ Watch With Tide Chart Bezel
Posted: May 15th, 2010, 1:07am MDT by admin

Sinn was pretty quiet this year at Baselworld 2010. I walked into their booth proudly wearing a Sinn watch myself to find not a soul that spoke English. Really Sinn? Actually, I can't be too surprised, the competent watch maker is a ghost in the United States. With just one authorized dealer (only online), Sinn watches aren't exactly common 'round these parts. But that shouldn't be the case. 2010 didn't have any super exciting new Sinn models that herald in a new era of "superman watch," but there area few interesting pieces. One is the U200 - which is a 'big boy's watch" for smaller wrists. And then there is this unique Sinn 142 St II GZ. An obfuscatory and odd name for a pretty interesting watch. In addition to the Dubois Depraz Calibre 2070 (base ETA 2892-A2) automatic movement its chronograph, synced 24 hour hand, and date, the watch has the first "tide bezel" I've ever seen.
The interesting function allows you to set the bezel, and then figure out the tides in a given area for that day. It is a much more low-tech solution in comparison to the many fancy electronic based tide chart watches out there. At the top of the spectrum are complex timepieces where you set the date and your longitude and latitude and you can accurately see tide charts for as long in the future as you can imagine. For this Sinn, the inner bezel needs to be adjusted so that you indicate the time of day where the last high tide occurred by lining up the inner bezel appropriately. Then, you can use the hour hand to track the ebb and flow of the tides along the blue indicator. Yes, it is simple and requires external data, but it is an elegant and attractive solution for those who need the data, and want a Sinn style timepiece on their wrists. If you want, you can use a website like this one to see tide times all over the US, so that you can adjust your Sinn 142 St II GZ before going out that day. It does beg the question though, why you'd want a mechanical watch to do something a digital watch clearly can do with much more precision and power. So for me. this complication is interesting and useful, but for people primarily want the watch for its other features (or have a very specific set of needs that the watch is able to satisfy).
Like the standard Sinn 142 collection, the watch is in a 44mm wide steel case with a sand-blasted finish all over. Makes for a sober, modern tool-look. Though the oblong case with the round dial looks like those "space watches" from a while back mixed with some 70's retro diving watches. The case is water resistant to 100 meters, and has one of Sinn's legendary comfy metal bracelets (with a diver's extension). You can also get the watch on a leather strap. Style-wise the piece is unique for its black, blue, white, and red tones in the Sinn family. Legibility is very good, with Sinn's typical sense of Germanic, manly quirkiness. Reading the dial is aided by the doubly AR coated sapphire crystal. Sinn's watch dials are so clear because they do an excellent job of making the crystals glare free. Look for the Sinn 142 St II GZ watch soon for a few thousand bucks.
See Sinn watches on eBay here.
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Chopard L.U.C Louis Ulysse Tribute Convertible Watch
Posted: May 14th, 2010, 1:01am MDT by admin

The idea of taking a wrist watch and transforming it into a pocket is less common than the other way around. Having a piece that can go back and forth between wrist watch and pocket watch is much rarer still. Sure it is a novelty, but I think it is one that Chopard executes rather nicely in the case of their new L.U.C Louis Ulysse watch. L.U.C (I am just going to write LUC for brevity) labeled watches in the Chopard line as those that have their in-house made movements. At least this is my understanding. LUC might even stand for Louis Ulysse Chopard, not 100% clear on this. Well nevertheless, this piece is a direct tribute to the man.
The watch begins with a new manually wound pocket watch movement. The movement design is actually apparently further intended to be used by watch making students at the Geneva Watchmaking school. The idea is that for the student's final projects, they will make one of these movement. Nothing created by mere students has been fitted into any of the 150 pieces of the LUC Louis Ulysse Tribute watch. This of these as "master copies." While the movement is pretty simple in form and function, it is COSC Chronometer certified (meaning that it is accurate), and has the prestigious Seal of Geneva placed on it - indicating that it was made within the Caton of Geneva and with certain decor standards.You can see the movement at all times through the sapphire caseback window of the watch.


At over 49mm wide, the watch is pretty big (but then again it is supposed to be a pocket watch as well. The case is done in 18k white gold and polished and satin finished. The design of the case is not exactly vintage, but not exactly modern either. It has some semblances of the art deco, but I don't think it is that. Perhaps there is an addition style option that I am not familiar with. Though regardless, I like the angle crown guard, thin bezel, and wide sized dial. The face is probably enamel, with beautiful hour indicators and a dash of red. It really looks like a vintage instrument dial. Chopard opted to go with a very interesting choice of hands. They appear a bit similiar to other Chopard pieces, but on nothing this classic looking.

You can see that the strap is connected to a polished metal cradle. Without this segment the LUC Louis Ulysee is a pocket watch (not sure if it comes with a chain). Not only can you insert the watch into the cradle to make it a wrist watch, but this process is supposed to be incredible easy and fast. Alas. all you need to do is slide the watch into the cradle, and tighten the lock on the back of the watch. This should also create a snug, wiggle free fit. For added security you can loop a small buckle through the crown guard attaching it to the cradle in another way. The strap it self is in alligator.
With its appealing looks, finely made movement, and convertible nature as being able to be both a wrist watch and a pocket watch, I don't see why Chopard should have too much trouble ending up "sold out" of the 150 limited edition pieces of this watch. Look for the Chopard L.U.C Louis Ulysse Tribute watches soon.
See Chopard Watches on eBay here.
See Chopard Watches on Amazon here.
US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Hong Kong Auctions Indian Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Polish Auctions Singapore Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions UK Auctions Best Match Time: ending soonest Time: newly listed Price: lowest first Price: highest first Price + Shipping: lowest first Price + Shipping: highest first 
Chopard Luc Pro One 168912-3002
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A. Lange & Sohne Grande Lange 1 Luminous Watch
Posted: May 13th, 2010, 1:17pm MDT by admin
It is the heat of the night, and you are having an expensive watch wearing worthy good time. You go to look are your luxury timepiece in the dim lighting on the patio of that bar you like, and low and behold those lustrous gold holds show no luster in the dark. Time to rethink your evening timepiece selection, or you could instead seek out the relatively few high-luxury watches with luminant applied to them. While not a big deal for a Seiko, a lume covered German A. Lange & Sohne is a rarity. Here is their newest one, called the Grande Lange 1 Luminous. Larger Grande Lange 1 case (as opposed to the smaller standard Lange 1). Black dial, and just the right shade of retro green for the richly applied lume that makes up the hour markers and is all over the hands. A cool sporty Lange watch. Though, to actually refer to it as a sport watch, your idea of sports involves playing lawn croquet at night.
Read more about the Grande Lange 1 Luminous watch in my article about it over at Haute Living here.
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JeanRichard 2TimeZones Watches
Posted: May 13th, 2010, 1:03am MDT by admin


JeanRichard is having enough success with their well designed line of Diverscope dive watches to merit an on-going stream of limited editions. Here is one of my favorites. They rename the watch the "2TimeZones," add some complications, and make the case out of zirconium. I think there are 2TimeZones watches that aren't in Zirconium that I took images of below. Why zirconium? It is a lot like titanium, but not titanium. Need I say more? The watch is not only a 2 time zone watch, but also a nifty world timer. One that genuinely wants to be a better world timer than the rest of them. I like how the main time and second timezone are actually totally different in style. That way you don't mix the two up - something I would personally be prone to doing. This is probably my favorite second timezone watch that I've ever checked out.
The dial has of course the time, a small window for the date, then below it one for the time zone reference city. Titanium pushers on the left side of the case move the time "east or west." The second timezone is displayed in a larger window closer to the top of the dial (thankfully not in 24 hour format), and with an AM/PM indicator. Finally a world timer for normal people! The watch crows are also titanium (left one is used for the internal rotating 24 hour ring that is a diver's bezel in other similar JeanRichard watches) that has black vulcanized rubber.




The rubber bezel sort of gives the watch a bumper. Other versions of the watch have standard metal bezels. The gravel-like textured gray dial is also interesting and of course the hands and hour numerals are easy to see and read. The pictures dial is actually "powdered effect" stamped rhodium, and a black version of this is also available, along with a number of other dials. There are even pattern textured dials available. The strong hands are nicely differentiated between the hour and minute hand, and are also very easy to read. This is a straight forward watch and proves that JeanRichard is a no BS brand.
Inside the watch is a calibre JR1000 movement. It is an automatic, and in-house made I believe. Movement has 33 jewels and a reasonable power reserve of 48 hours. Of course the crystal is sapphire and the case is water resistant to 100 meters. Pretty typical for the line, but it is still highly acceptable for this semi diver style watch line. You can even consider them baby Girard Perregaux watches if you like (part of the same company). The JeanRichard 2TimeZones Zirconium is limited to just 249 pieces (odd number). Price is about $10,000 - $15,000 if I recall correctly. Not sure the number of pieces for the non limited editions. Should be available now or soon.
See JeanRichard watches on eBay here.
See JeanRichard watches on Amazon here.
US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Hong Kong Auctions Indian Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Polish Auctions Singapore Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions UK Auctions Best Match Time: ending soonest Time: newly listed Price: lowest first Price: highest first Price + Shipping: lowest first Price + Shipping: highest first 
JeanRichard Paramount Automatic Chronograph Silver Dial
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HourTime Show Postcast Interview With Xetum Watch Co. Founder
Posted: May 12th, 2010, 1:14pm MDT by admin
Ever wanted to start your own watch brand? Curious the type of person who does and the stuff they face in the process? John and I interview Jeff Kuo, who started Xetum watches - a Swiss Made brand located and operated in San Francisco, CA.
Listen to the HourTime Interview with Xetum Watch Co. founder on starting a watch brand.
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Interview: John Simonian, Wrist Watch Entrepreneur, Owner of Westime Los Angeles
Posted: May 12th, 2010, 1:01am MDT by admin

He pointed out the outline of tape on the floor. “That will be my desk.” He preferred I not take pictures of him at his temporary desk. A handyman was drilling audibly in the other room while on a ladder. This is John Simonian’s new office space. A short stroll from the previous location, no doubt the shrewd businessman took advantage of depressed real estate market to upgrade his surroundings – roughly tripling the size of his domain. Though most people who indirectly do business with John won’t ever see it, save for a few select clients who are fortunate. Simonian is the owner of Westime, the popular luxury watch store situated around the corner off Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. Though he really does a lot more than that.
The watch don is friendly at his desk. His own office includes a conference table and toys. I recognize the wisdom of having company meetings in the room he feels most comfortable in, that is him. Soft in his tone and extremely congenial, my impressions of John all began before I met him. The watch industry is a small place, and its most important players are the subject of reputation and reference. Simonian is regarded as having an excellent eye for successful newcomers, as well being a businessman with enviable skills. Those unable to match his clever decision making and tactics are often most vocal about him. “Simonian is a shark, and the smartest person in the watch industry that I know of.”
Of Armenian descent, John grew up in Lebanon, moved to Switzerland, and then eventually to the US. The obvious analog is Nicolas Hayek, “ruler” of the Swatch Group who didn’t quite make it to the US from Switzerland, and is also from Lebanon. Simonian speaks several languages, but isn’t quite sure where he picked up English. Among them are Arabic, Armenian, Turkish, French, German (Swiss German as well), and a spattering of words and conversational skills in others as well. Learning this makes me jealous that I only know two languages. It seems that many successful business people are multi-tongued.
Listening to John on the phone, it sounds like he won’t choose a preferred language. His abrupt but friendly conversations with colleagues sound as though they are a mixture of phrases, languages, and personal innuendos. The sharp reputation John has must be in the ends to his means. Otherwise his presence is almost sage-like.
In addition to selling watches to the public via Westime, John is a distributor. The idea is simple, but John proves this end of the business to be the most complex – though likely his favorite. Distribution involves investing in a brand and representing them in a particular market. By becoming a distributor, John will control the brand in the US, as well as other markets depending on the deal. Anyone who wants to sell the brand must go through John. It is a fantastic way to slash and burn the competition when it comes to hot brands. You could say that John got lucky with Richard Mille – a hot new ultra-luxury sport watch brand. With few watches that retail under $80,000 you’d think the market for such timepieces is small. The success of the brand is soaring and John likely picked up the rights from the start. Sometimes referred to as “the nose,” John has the legendary reputation for picking out viable newcomers and making them big. Of course I asked what the takes into consideration when gambling with new brands. His answer is simple – the watchmaker means more than the product. He explains that you can reform a bad product into something great, but even a good design won’t last if the watchmaker is lacking in the qualities necessary for success.
He describes a world where new watchmakers have a series of role models that they wish to emulate or reach. There are in fact a series of “celebrity” watch makers in the industry. This is why so many brands are named for the people behind them. The reality, is that like aspiring actors in Los Angeles, only a few really make it. John helps find the best ones, and trust me that he has them knocking on his door - which is good for him, because he loves promising new comers. What advice can I give to new watch makers based on what I learned from Mr. Simonian? Well, I would say that at the least, you need to be charismatic and be able to sell yourself. Understand what consumers want, as well as have the ability to be flexible. Most important? Don’t be stupid. I ask John what annoys him with the watch industry and the response is applicable to any industry. Humorous, it is sadly predictable how often the biggest annoyance is stupid people. They really ruin the party for everyone.

Richard Mille is taking a lot of John’s time these days – but that is a good thing. While no one is spared the problems of the recession. Simonian’s business feels solid. At least that is the reputation I get from him. One of the things I admire about John is his innate desire to take risks. You have lots of people in the watch industry that act only on numbers – making decisions based almost purely on facts and figures (which ironically are sometimes not very factual). Taking chances is really the best way of becoming something in any industry. Of course, you need intelligence to accompany bravery.
Westime for example is filled with a number of brands. Sure you have the Richemont Group major players, but you will also find a number of smaller and independent brands with solid products and great images. John is known for helping to make such brands as Greubel Forsey and MB&F popular. Inside the shop I find others I am glad to see such as Nubeo and MCT. Like John, I see a lot to be impressed with in these brands. I am glad that we have some of the same taste, but happier to see brands like this on home soil. Too often promising smaller brands aren’t given a chance in America. I am glad to see a big name like Simonian taking interest in them.
John isn’t the fanatical watch lover I am, but that is a tall order. He loves the watch industry though. His father was in the watch industry, and now John’s son, Greg Simonian, is also involved. Soon to take over the retail side of the business, John will passed over an important part of the operation to his son, and leave him to be the big boss he enjoys being. Richard Mille will continue to be grown and nurtured by Simonian. When it matures other fresh projects will headline his distribution business, but he is never a one brand man.
I know that the next time I visit John his office will be different. Fully moved in, the big watch boss’s operation will take the products and personalities that are so obsessed over in Europe and do the necessary task of actually selling them. The thing that no one liked to mention often is that the luxury watch industry relies on people continually buying new, highly expensive watches. Collector’s get their “watch fix” and everyone is happy. The industry needs that stream of interest that keeps clients coming back for more. John’s role is perhaps not as appreciated as it should be. He plays the ongoing games of making the buyers happy. This involves not only learning about new products, but resolving their issues during and post sale – something that the brand themselves are notoriously bad at. While Simonian is a big boss, he is also an army. Fighting the good fight that keeps the watch industry gears lubricated.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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A Timeless Tale by Rolex in Berlin
Posted: May 11th, 2010, 1:45pm MDT by Robert-Jan
Between the 5th of June and the 2nd of July 2010, the (Europe’s very first) Rolex boutique in Berlin is showcasing their most important or better yet, meaningful watches of their 105 years of existence. The watches are chronologically displayed starting with their oldest timepiece dating 1905 and includes their first Oyster watches, produced in [...] Related posts:
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TechnoMarine Watches Back On The Block
Posted: May 11th, 2010, 1:05am MDT by admin

The build up was intense. Months of teasers and speculation to see what new CEO of TechnoMarine Vincent Perriard would do to the brand that desperately needed a refresh. At the same time, Perriard only had a few months because he was new to the brand - fresh out of his seat at Concord. His task was to release new watches for Baselworld 2010 to be interesting enough for people to notice the brand again. Not an easy task, especially given the molasses like pace of the watch industry. The middle of March was the proving ground - would the new collection have enough appeal to convince enough people the brand was worth paying attention to again.
In the 1990s TechnoMarine was a big deal because it was another "mold breaking" brand. I've discussed this before, but I will again because I think it is important. TechnoMarine opened the doors to modern luxury sport watches. Not that they themselves were super high-end, but the brand revolutionized the concept of who wears sport watches, and when they can be worn. Mixing plastic with diamonds was an odd thing back then. In fact, for most people it still is. But the concept worked. The watches looked like blinged-out Casio G-Shock watches with analog hands, and they worked. The industry stole the concept to a degree and overshadowed TechnoMarine a few years later with lots more, much expensive or unique pieces. To a large degree, I think you can credit TechnoMarine with making it acceptable to offer (and buy), the legions of gold watches with rubber and/or diamonds. Plastic was simply an interim material, making way for all sorts of exotic sporty materials that you'd never traditionally think of pairing with luxury watches.

While TechnoMarine never really went anywhere, they certainly didn't grow too much in popularity. For 2010 their idea is to change all that. Have they succeed? Well they are off to a good start. They also have a killer advertising campaign and messaging plan that I think will be excellent for the brand. Just wait until you see their ads soon. For Perriard, the most important of the new collection is the new TechnoMarine Cruise Sport line. I initially wrote about it here on AskMen.com. This is the major mainstream collection that he is going to be focusing on. A 40mm wide and 45mm wide model selection with and without a chronograph. Priced at about $400 and under, this is a watch made for the masses.



What is interesting is that Perriard's last stint was at Concord. There he helped construct the revitalization of the brand as well as the C1 collection. A watch line that I did not like. Perriard and I had some interesting discussion about it, but it was all mute once he left Concord. From ultra high-end to high volume, he has totally changed his pace by moving to TechnoMarine. I finally got to meet with Vincent last month. A charismatic guy, I feel bad for Concord having lost him. He understands marketing and hype. I think he will do a good job pushing the new TechnoMarine message with a line of watches that won't break the bank. He thinks in color, and it shows in the models. Each feels like candy that isn't too sweet. Meaning the designs satisfy, but not in a way that will burden your eyes after prolonged exposure.
One of the interesting things about the new TechnoMarine watches is the refinement of the "sheath idea." Earlier TechnoMarine watches has plastic over metal cases. You could actually remove the sheath/cover and replace them with others. But it was a pain in the ass. The concept was great though, and the new watches have refined this idea. Basically, you can quickly remove the mostly silicone straps, which allows you to remove the cover over the case. Underneath is polished steel. You then have different colors (even a clear sheath) to put over the watch, and you have lots of different strap colors. In fact, each new Cruise Sport watch comes with two straps. I played with the straps and sheaths personally. I have to admit that switching them around is pretty simple.



The Cruise Sport is comfortable and looks pretty good. It isn't the most beautiful or awesome watch in the world, but for the price point, it does offer more refined style than that a lot of what is out there. The pieces are also durable, and will likely survive some harsh treatment. Available with a few dial colors as well, it will likely be a solid seller.
Inside the Cruise Sport, and much of the new TechnoMarine line are Citizen Miyota movements. Though there are Swiss movements in other TechnoMarine timepiece. There is a combination of quartz movements, as well as few mechanical ones. TechnoMarine chose Japanese movements because of their price mixed with durability. With them, they can offer the watches at more reasonable rates. Other than the Cruise Sport there are some other new models. There might be a few images of existing models in here though - but they are mostly new to me. I actually don't know the name of most of these other models. Each of them has the sheath over metal style case, expect for the ceramic model, a nicer and more expensive part of the TechnoMarine collection. I actually quite like that piece.
The pieces you see here are a sign of what is to come for TechnoMarine. Perriard promises a much more substantial collection for Baselworld 2011. I am interested to see what TechnoMarine will release then after more than a year with the CEO, and the new direction. So what do you think? Can you see a TechnoMarine Cruise Sport on you?
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Casio Pathfinder PAW-5000 Watch Review
Posted: May 10th, 2010, 1:04am MDT by admin

Casio lovers have been waiting for an analog version of the esteemed Pathfinder watch for years (elsewhere called "ProTrek"). The do anything watch in the Casio family was a bit plagued by nerditis. That is, while the watches are fantastically functional, they ooze a bit of "dork." I am a proud owner of many a Pathfinder watches, and love the looks, feel, and utility they provide - but admit it isn't a watch I'd bring along a wingman on a date. Better for activities, being outdoors, and wanting to survive the perils of nature. Social gatherings demand a bit more tact when it comes to your digital aura.
So the clever engineers at Casio devised the PAW-5000. I can't say with absolute certainly that this is the first Pathfinder watch with analog hands, but it is the first that I am aware of. It has all the bell & whistles you expect in these watches, with the addition of analog hangs, and a Casio Tough Movement (Tough Mvt.). So what is a tough movement? It is a special quartz movement that helps keep the hands perfectly aligned after times of physical shock. I first wrote about it here, so click that link to learn more. Pretty much something you need to having with a rugged watch like this. One of the benefits of the movement is that hands are always perfectly aligned (that I have found), which is a big plus for a quartz watch in my book.



As you would expect, the movement is also solar (any light actually) powered ("Tough Solar"), and atomic clock radio controlled. Actually, being an analog watch might be of benefit to power generation. You can see that most of the dial is a photo-receptive solar panel - larger than the smaller ring used in the all digital screen models. Like other high-end pathfinder models, the watch can receive signals from your local atomic clock to sync to the correct time perfectly each day. This is actually one of the most complex functions in these phones, but you can set it to auto receive each night. I recommend looking through the instructions if you wish to fiddle with the "RC" (radio controlled) functions.
I have to admit that even though the watch dial is really busy on the PAW-5000 watch, it isn't that tough to read - in fact, I would say it is easy to read. Casio is smart not to add clutter underneath where the hands travel (too much), which greatly assists with legibility. I personally find the hands easy to spot and they have a high contrast with the dial. So legibility is good! Casio took some inspiration from the popularity of the Tissot T-Touch family of watches. Not in the "touch" department, but in using the hands for some of the features. Thus, the orange seconds hand is used a lot in the various functions. It isn't quite as slick as in the T-Touch watches, but the Casio is clearly much less expensive (and will probably last longer). As such, the seconds hand is used as the compass needle in the compass mode, to assist with the barometer reading, to see what timezone you are switching to in the world time function (see the abbreviated reference cities spelled out around the dial), and a few other things. Casio does a good job making you feel that the analog part of the watch plays nicely with the Pathfinder part of the watch.


For many of the functions you will need to rely on the smaller LCD screen. That will be your go to space for the chronograph, alarms, countdown timer, calendar, readings for the sensors, and other information. For years Casio has learned to skillfully use small LCD screens for such functions. While each is totally useful, I still recommend an all digital Pathfinder watch if you are going to be using these functions extensively. It just makes more sense when you have more LCD screen real estate. But if you are going to be mainly using the watch for time, with the occasional need for the other functions, then this is a solid choice.
Being a pathfinder watch, the piece will of course have the requisite "ABC" functions. This is the altimeter, barometer, and compass. This also includes the thermometer as part of the barometer function. Again, this are present and useful as expected, with reliance on the small screen, and some integration of the analog hands. The button layout on the watch is the same you are used to. With three on the right, one on the left, and two on the front of the watch. There is little to no learning curve if you are going to the PAW-5000 watch from any other Pathfinder model.



One area that Casio might need to work on a bit is the backlighting. The watch uses a bright LED. It is bright enough, but is placed in an odd location - right at the bottom of the watch. If you turn it on in the dark, it washes out the LCD screen a bit, making it hard to read. Plus, the light isn't lit quite long enough for me. It takes me a little bit longer to read analog hands versus a digital readout. I understand that the LED draws on the battery a lot, but I end up having to turn it on a few time to read the time. These are relatively small issues actually, and don't actually impede using the watch, they just make it take a bit longer in some instances.
Casio really upgraded the look of the Pathfinder watch here. The PAW-5ooo has a nice metal bezel (even in this resin model). There is also a model with a titanium bracelet available. Case is water resistant to 100 meters. The metal bezel looks really nice, and helps "de-plastic" the watch a bit. The resin strap also has metal plates on each side near the watch. At about 50mm wide, the watch is bit, but nothing larger than other Pathfinder watch - though it is a bit thicker than some of the ultra-thin models we have been seeing such as the Casio PAW-2000 that I reviewed here. Style is overall good, and I think we finally have a Pathfinder watch that can be worn to the office. It really has a cool technical look to it, but one that isn't too nerdy
As always with this collection, the watch is very comfortable on the wrist (large or small), and is quite light. Casio has mastered the "I didn't even realize it was on my wrist" feeling in even its largest watches. An evolution on the Pathfinder collection the PAW-5000 is not. Instead, it is a true analog/digital alternative to the rock-solid collection that for most people is the gold standard of multi sensor watches. Casio engineers prove that they can use their greatest technology to house a highly durable analog movement in a watch that is meant to keep you updated with information when you need it most. Also, it offers two pieces of functionality that Tissot T-Touch lovers have been begging for, for years. Those being solar power generation and atomic time keeping. Price for the Casio PAW-5000 watch starts at $450 (more for the metal bracelet version)Learn more or get one at Casio here.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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IWC Portofino Watch Available On James List
Posted: May 9th, 2010, 1:09am MDT by admin

As far as I am concerned the "lost" IWC watch model is the Portofino. Yes, they still made the watch - in at least a few varieties - but you never hear about it. Perhaps this is a function of myself being in the US, but I have yet to see real marketing for the Portofino. It isn't a bad timepiece at all. Over time the IWC Portofino watch has changed, but right here is the basic, entry level Portofino model. There is also a chronograph version in production. In my opinion, the Portofino is the basic, entry level "formal" watch from IWC. It sits close in theme to the Portuguese, but is different. This is a nice watch, but not meant to be a modern watch. It is from a more simple time, when a good watch was easy on the eyes, and drew credibility from a good name on the dial.
And there it is, those three letters that are world-know to signify good quality from Schaffhausen - of the only text on the dial. I first really became aware of the Portofino as a good looking classy watch while spending time at IWC's manufacture. I was there for a press event and sitting next to famous Brazilian author Paulo Coelho during a group interview. He happened to be wearing a steel Portofino with a black dial. The 39mm wide watch was worn a bit loosely on his wrist and seemed to epitomize a sort of "generic" good looking watch someone who isn't too into watches might like. That is in no way something negative about the design - but rather it seems to have a more mainstream appeal than some of IWC's more enthusiast oriented watches. Mr. Coelho has worked with IWC on a new book about the brands history - with Mr. Coelho contributing a series of stories inside of the book - making for a book within a book. More on that in another article. While any IWC watch could have been on his wrist, the very successful author opted for a Portofino.



Back in the 1970 and 80s for example, this type of watch style was very popular. A sort of minimalist design, it has features associated with traditional watch making in an elegant manner. The case is meant to emphasize the graceful roundness of the case, rather than masculine strength. This is evidenced by the simple, straight lugs. A more aggressive watch would have large, more serious looking lugs. The hands, almost leaf-like in shape, are purposeful without looking like sharp daggers. This watch points to the time as opposed to asserting the hour. Dial legibility is maintained via good color contrasts and easy to spot hour and minute indicators - plus, the sapphire crystal is doubly coated with AR for a really glare-free view of the face. Quality is enhanced by having each of the hour markers be applied. A date indicator window helps remind you that the watch is a tool, not just an experiment in minimalist design. All IWC watches feel like tools before anything else. Which I think is one of the reasons the brand is so popular world-wide.
Modest in size, the Portofino is 39mm wide and just 8.6mm thick. Prior to 2007, Portofino watches were a bit smaller at 38mm wide. So if you are looking for a piece, keep the year of production in mind when looking at the size. Overall, the size of the watch makes for a very easy to wear timepiece. The movement is the IWC Calibre 30110 automatic, which is a base ETA 2829-2 automatic (with seconds hacking). Being one of the less expensive IWC watches around, it doesn't have an in-house made movement like higher-end IWC watches. In addition to the steel cased version, there is a rose gold version as well (that is of course much more money). Unless you get a spectacular deal on a gold version, this is a watch that I recommend looking at in steel. The watch has an alligator strap in either brown of black. Retail price of the steel version is a reasonably $3,000 - and you can find it for a bit less online sometimes.
See this IWC Portofino watch available on James List here.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Blancpain Carrousel Répétition Minutes Le Brassus Watch
Posted: May 8th, 2010, 1:09pm MDT by admin
Classy-ish looks, gold case, Carrousel rather than tourbillon (don't worry if you don't understand what the difference is - just watch the video above about 13 times and you might figure it out), minute repeater, highly skeletonized and exposed movement, limited to 10 pieces, about $360,000. Or otherwise, just your typical daily wear timepiece from Blancpain!
See my full article on the Blancpain Carrousel Répétition Minutes Le Brassus watch here over at Haute Living.
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Longio Tourbillon Watches For 2010
Posted: May 8th, 2010, 1:13am MDT by admin

To my knowledge, Longio is one of the only Chinese watch brands trying to push and market their tourbillon watches aggressively. I reviewed one of their Telamon 1000m Tourbillon Dive watches here, and originally discussed Longio Chinese tourbillon watches here. You can find more information about the brand in those articles. Here I would like to share with you a few of their new, or other pieces. I visited them at Baselworld and snapped some shots - though the above images of the green numeraled Asamara Tourbillon were sent to me from Longio themselves.





The Asamara Tourbillon watch is probably their most distinctive piece. It also features what I call an "architectural" design that the Telamon Diver watch also had. Not that they look the same, but they feel as though they are adapted building designs as opposed to traditional watch designs. All the watches here have a certain "polish" to their case designs. It makes them feel modern looking and easy on the eyes. They aren't the highly complex designs that some other brands gravitate towards, but feel more like frames for the dials and movements. They are also all designs based on having a low number of parts in the case design. Thus, the designs play with shapes, cuts, and polishes.
It is true that Longio is efficient with parts, meaning that you'll see the same hands or cases on a number of models. I see it as economical experimentation. Unlike many boring euro-copycat Chinese watches, you see a distinct level of unique design in Longio pieces that still feel as though they fit in the watch industry. The Asamara watch certain conjures up this sentiment, as does the watch with the engraved dial, and the other roundish watch with the green numerals. Apologies for not having all the model names at my disposal.




Some of the best Longio Tourbillon watches are sport pieces - or at least sporty looking ones. Rubber straps and clear faces are enhanced with tourbillon complications. Perhaps not the tourbillon watch for everyone, but still interesting and marketable. A real "easy on the eyes" aesthetic that I can appreciate. For the ladies is a tourbillon watch as well. This is a more fancy watch for sure. An horizontally oblong case in polished steel with a mother-of-pearl dial, semi-precious stones around the bezel, and a date with moon phase indicator subdial. The applied hour markers and hands are attractive as well. It might not have as polished a design as those coming from Europe, but the price is comparatively fractional.
The above green Asamara Tourbillon watch is Ref. SG3826 and is limited to just 100 pieces. It has a DLC (not PVD) coated steel case and is priced at $7,239. That is about the upper range area of their watches, but I have seen a few that go to $8,000. There are tourbillon models they have that go down to $2,000 - $3,000. Longio has some good machinery and interesting designers (like I keep saying). If you are looking for a lower priced tourbillon watch and must have one within reach, Longio would be a place to look.
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Master Watch Maker Vianney Halter ‘Tells It Like It Is’ In Interview
Posted: May 7th, 2010, 1:01pm MDT by admin

Most watch lovers have a fondness and strict appreciation for watch maker Vianney Halter - who is the man behind Janvier Manufacture, a number of interesting timepieces (including the iconic Antiqua), has set the bar for luxury steampunk timepieces, and is a respected personality in the world of horology. Haute Horlogerie Magazine recently interviews him (link below), and I suggest the short read due to Vianney's actually straight forward and sober responses.
Any watch industry journalist knows that while you need to interview the CEO's of major brands in the hope that you might get some advertising income out of them down the line, said brand executives mostly make for pointless discussions. They speak in vagaries, are overly positive, and often only speak in "brand mantra." Independents are often much better to speak with, and Mr. Halter makes for a good opinion.
Here is probably his best quote from the interview:
"[T]his year I've seen some totally out-there products that take buyers for fools. If there's one lesson 2009 should have taught us, it's never again, yet looking around I can see this isn't necessarily the case. Watchmaking, like banking, is prepared to go back to the same old ways that hastened its fall. It bothers me to see contractors in dire financial straits."

In response, Christophe Roulet, who interviews him ponders whether the statement is too "pessimistic." Is that really the best response? I think Vianney felt very positive about being able to vent his feelings. Nothing like calling a interviewee "pessimistic" to have a real chilling effect on the conversation.
Check out Haute Horlogerie Magazine's May 2010 interview with Vianney Halter here.
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Scuderia Ferrari One Watch By Cabestan
Posted: May 7th, 2010, 1:04am MDT by admin
The big news this week in the watch world was the big deal between Ferrari and high-end watch maker Cabestan along with its designer Jean-Francois Ruchonnet. Cabestan is to make a limited edition collection of very high-end Ferrari branded watches. I briefly discussed the Ferrari / Cabestan watch deal here on Luxist. This comes just a few months after Ferrari officially broke ties with Panerai, who was previously given a license to make Ferrari branded watches. I discussed the termination of the Panerai/Ferrari relationship here. Panerai was making watches priced comparable to other Panerai watches in the $10,000 range (give or take several thousand) for most of the Ferrari watches. The Panerai name wasn't even on the dial. The watches were a market failure - bigger than you'd think when it came to the popular Ferrari name. Now, after the ink is about dry on all the termination documents with Panerai, Ferrari has chosen a new partner with Swiss brand Cabestan. Seen here is an image of current Cabestan CEO Timothy Bovard adorning a Ferrari Jacket - no doubt during a final meeting with Ferrari to "seal the deal." All sources indicate that they are very happy with the project and have evidenced that Ferrari's approach to making cars is very similar to the predominant sentiment among the best luxury watch makers. It is also a major step forward for independent luxury brands. Panerai was part of the very large Richemont Group while Cabestan is a boutique brand.
Unlike the Panerai deal that saw the production of many pieces in the mid-range luxury price market - the Cabestan deal is totally different. Ruchonnet designed the Scuderia Ferrari One watch that will be part of a limited edition of just 60 pieces - with about 20 pieces being made each year. That will be 30 pieces in black and red, and 30 pieces in black and yellow. Interestingly enough, the watch will not be sold through traditional retail outlets, but only through Ferrari. While the details aren't 100% clear yet, it seems as though you have to be an existing Ferrari car owner to be a Scuderia Ferrari One by Cabestan watch owner. Plus, you'll likely need to go through Ferrari in order to purchase the watches. Either way, expect long waiting times.




The timepiece, as designed by Ruchnonet and built by Cabestan is interesting. Ruchonnet is one of today's most prolific watch designers - having accolades with many brands. Thus, while he is the Cabestan designer, hes talents are spread widely to many brands. Cabestan made a name for itself with a crazy cool watch called the Winch Tourbillon Vertical. The watch was originally designed by Ruchonnet and master watch maker Vianney Halter. An image of the original Cabestan can be see among the images in this article. The current Winch Tourbillon Vertical is a bit different but retains the same concept. The movement is surprisingly accurate for a mechanical calibre being accurate to within about 1 second a date. It features exotic complications such a fusee and chain transmission of power from the mainspring barrel to the movement, as well as a vertically oriented tourbillon escapement wheel. Functions include the time (with hours, minutes, and seconds) as well as a power reserve indicator. A small winch is used to wind the movement manually. Even if the design isn't for you, you can't help but appreciate the incredible level of finishing and decoration the watch has if you get to check one out.
Ruchonnet adapted the design of the Winch Tourbillon Vertical watch for a more Ferrari- like application. The movement has been cosmetically enhanced with a number of changes - though the core complications and functions are retained. It was important for Ruchonnet to have a lot of Ferrari DNA in the movement. The idea was to use some of the same high-tech materials uses in Ferrari Formula 1 cars. In fact, the watch is also a 60th anniversary piece of the first Ferrari F1 car (Ferrari 275 was the model I believe) from 1950. Images of that car can be seen here in the article. You can see a healthy amount of carbon fiber (which is widely used in Ferrari cars) in the middle of the movement as a bridge. Unlike the original Cabestan watch, the Scuderia Ferrari One has a single, streamlined sapphire crystal over the watch dial/movement. Time is told via the "drums" that turn and are made of out aluminum. Separate ones are used for the hours, minutes, and seconds. Colors in the movement materials represent similar tones to Ferrari cars and their engines. Like all Cabestan watches, seeing the movement and using it to tell the time are the absolute highlights of their watches.



Ruchonnet didn't design the watch without help from Ferrari of course. He worked with Ferrari design director Flavio Manzoni (and likely the team) out in Maranello to identify those parts of Formula 1 Ferrari cars should be included in the design. The watch case has been specially designed to evoke elements of Ferrari race cars. The piece isn't meant to look like a car, but simply thematically go with them. The sides of the watch case are done in a special magnesium alloy, and the "screws" on the sides of the case have been designed to look like F1, quick change wheel nuts. I'd have to be in a room with both the cars and the watch to come to a conclusion on that for myself. Though if the picky people at Ferrari are OK with it, the watch is probably in good company when in the same room with the super, super car. I also added an image of a Ferrari F1 car steering wheel that you can visually compare with the watch. See how there is some similarity there? Ruchonnet even borrowed fonts from car gauges for the numerals on the rotating drums in the movement. One little question for me is how the watch will be wound. The original Cabestan watch included a winch on the side of the piece for winding it. Then that piece was removed as a module that you stick on the watch when you want to wind it - but that was expensive and caused problems. The newer Cabestan Nostromo watch actually has a pop out crown (top right "screw" pushes in to pop out). Seems as though that solution might be best for the Scuderia Ferrari One watch as well.
The watch will be attached to a cool special leather strap - also in either black and yellow or black and red. The strap deployment clasp is pretty cool looking as well. I can't wait to see final versions of the watch - which are due out in a few months from now. I will of course keen look out for them. Again, there will only be 60 of these watches ever made over the next year years (hand-made, one at a time), and they will cost 300,000 euros a piece, on top of what you already spent on your Ferrari automobile.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Sea-Dweller Back From Rolex Service!
Posted: May 6th, 2010, 2:15pm MDT by Robert-Jan
After I graduated in 2002, I bought this Rolex Sea-Dweller from my first (few) salaries. A used 1997 model with tritium dial (boy, did I want the Super Luminova model back then) with just minor scratches from every day use by its previous owner. In December 2007, I decided this watch needed a complete overhaul [...] Related posts:
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HourTime Show Watch Podcast Episode 23
Posted: May 6th, 2010, 1:00pm MDT by admin
We discuss the new inexpensive Casio G-Shock GA100 series which goes for $99, and then the American made RGM Pennsylvania Tourbillon that goes for up to $125,000... and more!
Listen to HourTime Show watch podcast episode 23 here.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980 Watch
Posted: May 6th, 2010, 1:10am MDT by admin
New Patek Philippe watches for 2010 didn't exactly make me jump for joy, but I did like the two new additions to the Nautilus collection. No new movements, but new implementations in the Nautilus cases. Here is the Nautilus Chronograph (ref. 5980 in steel and 5980R in gold), and I also liked the Nautilus Annual Calendar Ref. 5726 that I wrote about here. What I like about the layout of the Patek Philippe Caliber CH 280520 C is that is it is a 12 hour chronograph that looks like a watch with only a subsidiary seconds dial (more or less) - and is still easy to read. Pretty nice looking addition to Patek's sport watch collection.
See my article on the Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph watch on AskMen.com here.


See Patek Philippe watches on eBay here.
See Patek Philippe watches on Amazon here.
US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Hong Kong Auctions Indian Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Polish Auctions Singapore Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions UK Auctions Best Match Time: ending soonest Time: newly listed Price: lowest first Price: highest first Price + Shipping: lowest first Price + Shipping: highest first 
PATEK PHILIPPE 3710/ 1A - JUMBO NAUTILUS POWER RESERVE
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18K Patek Philippe 3800 Nautilus Watch Link 14mm
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PATEK PHILIPPE 5712R NAUTILUS ROSE GOLD GREAT OFFER NEW
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PATEK PHILIPPE NAUTILUS WHITE GOLD 5712G GREAT OFFER BN
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PATEK PHILIPPE - NAUTILUS 3800/1J MEN'S SIZE - YG LNIB
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Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1A Chronograph Steel
US $43,995.00
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comView Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Related posts:
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Virtually Test Watches On Your Wrist From Home With Tissot Reality
Posted: May 5th, 2010, 12:58pm MDT by admin

Another major step in making watch stores less relevant. I recently discussed the demise of third party watch retailers here, and a lot of people said that they still like going into stores to try watches on. So while buying timepieces online makes sense from a value and selection standpoint, it is hard to give up actually trying-on, and holding the watch. Well, this new system from Tissot doesn't exactly replace that experience 100%, but makes an awfully convincing case for skipping the store.
It is called Tissot Reality, and is a method of using what is known as "augmented reality." The term applies to programs that create visuals over real-life images. Tissot has created a downloadable application that allows you to try out their entire T-Touch collection family of watches from home in your underwear. The system isn't perfect, but the first attempt is really cool. You need to download the software, print out then cut out the watch shaped strap for your wrist, and you must have a webcam. Finally, I can try out new watches in my underwear - dream come true.

The move makes lots of sense given Tissot's new watch store online. According them, it is now their biggest point of sale. With a lot of great offerings, Tissot wants to make sure people can try their watches on and feel comfy buying online. Currently, Tissot Reality only allows you to "test" out T-Touch collection watches, but all that is likely to change in the future. I suspect that before long, you'll be able to "try on" their entire collection via the tool. I also predict that the application will eventually be a simple web applications, as opposed to something you need to download.
Of course I tried it out. The Tissot Reality program isn't exactly lean. It is an over 80mb download, but runs smoothly and installs easily. It automatically connects with your webcam, so there was basically no set up. Just strap on the piece of paper and wave it in front of your webcam. There is a choosing device along the left side of the program. You must actually have the paper in view on the screen to choose new watches. The view is totally in 3D. It doesn't get all angles, and isn't always perfectly aligned, but it does a pretty good job. You have a limited amount of tilt with the watch, and moving your wrist closer to the camera will zoom in on the watch - very cool. The program ever has simulated glare when moving the watch around.


Not only do you get to see the watches exactly how large they would be on your wrist in accurate colors, but the watch is animated. It syncs with your computer's time, and you can even operate it. The Tissot T-Touch collection is all about cool multifunction watches with a touch screen. I reviewed a Tissot T-Touch Expert watch here. There is a"Function" mode in Tissot Reality that lets you use your mouse to "touch" various parts of the dial activating the features. A new little window pops up with a video and some details about the functions - more augmented reality there. It goes without saying that the program also has tech specs for all the watches. In a nutshell, you can check out all the models in the Tissot T-Touch 2 collection, T-Touch Expert, T-Touch Expert Pilot, Sea-Touch, Sailing Touch, and maybe one or two others. You also get all the strap and dial options available to see what is right for you.
Tissot Reality also gives you the ability to take screen shot captures, and save them. That way you can look at them later or compare them with one another when trying to decide on the right watch. I easily recommend Tissot Reality for those who want to check out a fun, contemporary use of augmented reality programs, as well as those who are interested in a Tissot T-Touch timepiece. Prices for Tissot T-Touch watches are in the $1,000 range. It is only a matter of time before this concept is streamlined - made accessible without downloading software, a bit more precise, and more widely adopted by other watch makers (and many other industries as well).
Learn more about Tissot Reality or use it yourself here.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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The Scuderia Ferrari One by Cabestan
Posted: May 5th, 2010, 10:46am MDT by Robert-Jan
Cabestan proudly announces a partnership with Ferrari to celebrate the oldest and still existing Formula 1 racing team in the world, Scuderia Ferrari. With their debut in Formula 1 in 1950 (Grandprix of Italy), the Scuderia Ferrari team is active in Formula 1 for 60 years now. The Scuderia Ferrari One time piece by Cabestan [...] Related posts: -
Bremont over at MotoringExposure
Posted: May 5th, 2010, 9:31am MDT by Robert-Jan
Bremont is becoming one of my favorite English brands at this moment. I have written about Bremont before, covering their Martin Baker project and Bremont watches in general. Their collection of chronographs is just stunning and blows away the direct competition without having the typical ‘we are better than the rest’ attitude. Today is Wednesday [...] Related posts:
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The American Tourbillon: RGM Pennsylvania Calibre MM 2
Posted: May 5th, 2010, 1:02am MDT by admin

OK, so before you begin reading this I need you to start the above video of a choir rendition of "America the Beautiful." The video has some cheesy imagery of course, but interestingly sums up my swelling patriotic pride in America's first made (and designed) tourbillon movement. It is no surprise that this comes straight from Pennsylvania at RGM. The brand recently announced America's first made and designed watch movement (in a long time), and now its very first tourbillon. Hailing from Lancaster county, it is funny how this innovation in the American watch industry stems from a place where much of its population is living in the past. I am of course referring to the wealth of Amish that live out there.
It is an interesting framework for watch making in general. While new inventions and innovations are regularly announced from around the world, it is at its heart, a super retro industry. So for ultra developed America (relatively speaking) to finally come out with a complication it could have mastered a long time ago if it put effort in it is rather ironic. It speaks about our efficient and practical minds as Americans (before you go on a rant just think about it and how we have more or less rejected a lot of the "why do they do that" traditions of other countries"). This mentality often results in shunning fancy artisan work on a mass level like tourbillon movements that are more or less made solely for the sake of beauty, complexity, and tradition. A tradition that America has lost long ago, and is slowly regaining in certain communities.


The RGM Pennsylvania Tourbillon Calibre MM 2 movement is based on the RGM Calibre 801 (which itself borrows design elements from classic American made pocket watches - think prior to 1900). As a tourbillon the movement is lovely in design and decoration. RGM has created over the last several years a bona fide classic watch makers workshop. Though only recently has the brand been very interested in being serious movement makers. This is a direction the brand is moving in, in addition to creating beautifully decorated movements using classic guilloche machine engraving. Those wise in the ways of movements will quickly look at the Pennsylvania and realize that while it is similar to Swiss, French, or German movements, it has a uniqueness to the design, and looks to have elements taken from all parts of watch movement making history.
The movement is large and so is the diameter of the tourbillon. Material in the movement include German silver (not actually silver), gold, silver, and steel. It is made to be fitted into a 43mm wide case (available in steel or gold). Like some popular Swiss watches these days, the watch case will have a side mounted sapphire crystal near the tourbillon for a better view of the movement. While the watch itself hasn't been shown yet, I imagine that the dial will be very classic, and also have a large amount of guilloche machine engraving. The watches will no doubt feel similar to those decorated in Germany as Benzinger. Then again, you'll look at the movement as see the interesting "T" icon that represents Pennsylvania.



The final watch that will be the RGM Pennsylvania Tourbillon has yet to be released. It will be debuted in the middle of June though. While this isn't the most complex tourbillon in the world, it is nicely made with 100% American elbow grease. The first one ever, and better late to the game than never. So listen to "American the Beautiful" and think of those proud stars and stripes when looking at this new classic looking, thoroughly American calibre. Price starts at $75,000 for the watch in a steel case. $95,000 in gold, and $125,000 in a platinum case. Ask yourself, how much of a patriotic watch lover are you?
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Tudor Heritage Chrono Watch Video Has American Flair, Not Actually Sold In America
Posted: May 4th, 2010, 1:18pm MDT by admin
Asia's fascination with the Tudor watch brand continues to elude me. Maybe that is because Tudor watches haven't been sold in the US in a while (at least as far as I know). So I have no emotional connect to the brand or its timepieces. As most of you know, Tudor is a brand run and owned by Rolex. Some call it baby Rolex, some call it "poor, but not so poor man's Rolex." Their new watch marquee watch for 2010 is the Heritage Chrono. Not exactly my favorite piece, but this Tudor made video makes it look cool. American music (though covered, and not the original song so as to avoid expensive royalties!), in an American looking lifestyle ad (with a German car) look squarely aimed at a western audience. Though none of these Heritage Chrono timepiece will officially be sold in America. Ironic yes, but more a point on how many products are sold in Asia as being of western influence, when in fact that aren't even sold in America (but sometimes in Europe of course).
US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Hong Kong Auctions Indian Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Polish Auctions Singapore Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions UK Auctions Best Match Time: ending soonest Time: newly listed Price: lowest first Price: highest first Price + Shipping: lowest first Price + Shipping: highest first 
MENS TIGER TUDOR chronograph watch
US $2,400.00

GENUINE ROLEX TUDOR Chronograph 20300 Mens Steel Watch
US $2,540.00

Tudor chronograph dial cadran zifferblatt with hands
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Vintage Tudor Chronograph Big Block Watch Ref: 79160
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Tudor Chrono big block 79170
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NEW ROLEX TUDOR Chronograph 41mm Black Dial Watch 20300
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Christopher Ward C600 Tri-Tech Elite Diver Watch Review
Posted: May 4th, 2010, 1:02am MDT by admin

Let me first say that I didn't expect to like this watch as much as I do. What won me over in the end was its incredible happiness to be a wrist companion. Always being easy to read, nice to touch, and comfortable to wear. My first reaction to the C600 line of diver watches from Christopher Ward (a UK based watch brand that specializes in selling its products direct online) was "well that is interesting." A sort of luke warm reaction that meant I recognized that the watch collection was different, but didn't give me that intense "tell me more!" sensation. The moderately sized watches in black came with a trio of dial choices and sat at the top of the Christopher Ward dive watch range.
Christopher Ward got one of the C600 Tri-Tech Elite Diver watches to me and my tone changed after testing it out. This is really a classic diver watch with some interesting design cues that are actually more function oriented that style oriented. It reminds me of certain military vehicles that look a bit odd at first, until you appreciate why they look that way. Take for instance those planes with the large "mushroom" radars coming out of them. Or perhaps the A-10 "Warthog" Tank Killer plane. The ubiquitous air to ground offensive plane is a deadly force to be reckoned with but didn't get that "warthog" name from look like a bouquet of flowers.
I don't intend to suggest the C600 is unattractive - far from it. But rather that its largely utility minded. Its composition and features are meant to suggest that it is capable of hard duty. The hands are almost whimsically large, and you don't often get that combination of lime green and black on a serious watch. Though the color differences are there for contrast, and you never (ever) lose sight of the hands when trying to read the watch.



At 43mm wide and not too thick at 13mm wide, the watch isn't small, but is certainly smaller than the biggy divers that we are all familiar with as of late. For me, the watch is a perfect mix of being large enough, but not being at all unwieldy. The steel case here is PVD black coated. You can tell that most of the case was brushed underneath the coating. There are more-or-less no sharp edges on the case at all. Running your finger over it is actually pleasing. Because the smooth texture of the coating combined with the many surfaces of the watch allow you to know exactly what you are touching without even looking. Which brings me to the rotating diver's bezel. At first I though it looked too rounded. Not sharp and precision cut like many of the much more expensive dive watches out there. The second you touch and use the bezel, you understand the concept. The bezel is not only easy to grip and read (even though it all black), but it does not cut into your fingers. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Dive watches for example have beautiful looking bezels, but some of them are so sharply milled that you could actually cut yourself on them if you were too aggressive or scratched up against them harshly. The C600 though has a very pleasing to touch and use rotating bezel. It might look a bit funny, but it works real well.
A serious diver, the watch is water resistant to 500 meters (what 50 ATM translates into). As such, Christopher Ward equipped it with a helium release (escape) valve. Not something you use very often, but a nice additional feature. I must admit that the feature is often mostly cosmetic, because that diagonally placed crown on the upper left of the case just always looks cool. It does have a use of course, but in the case of helium release valves, its utility is often outweighed by its style and ability to add "cred" to a watch. The watch crown is smooth to the touch (but grippy enough) just like the bezel. It screws down and has a guard built around it from the case to protect it. The 4.5mm thick sapphire crystal over the dial is domed a bit. This is often the case with watches that have a higher water resistance. Doming can often create visual distortion when viewing the dial from an angle. That, combined with glare from reflected light can make dials hard to read. The C600 has AR coating on the inside of the dial which helps to reduce glare. The easy to read dial and large hands are easy to read even with some mild crystal lens distortion.



The watch dial is just a little bit glossy - but not much. In addition to the black dial with green, the C600 Tri-Tech Elite Diver watch comes in a yellow dial with black hands and hour indicators, as well as a metallic blue dial with black hands and indicators. This version, as well as the yellow dial are the easiest to to read. The "Tri-Tech" part of the watch names comes from the three important technologies that Christopher Ward feels you should know about in the watch. I have already mentioned the PVD coating, and the helium release valve, but the watch also features tritium micro gas tubes as luminant. According to Christopher Ward, this watch is the first time these three things have been coming.
Tritium gas tubes are pretty much always welcomed by me. The little gas tubes with a safe amount of radiation naturally glow without the need to be charged by light. The half-life of the compound inside the tubes will glow for about 20-25 years before eventually fading out. If you still are wearing the watch that long, can probably just get the tubes replaced. Christopher Ward uses mostly blue colored tubes in the watch that mimic the now common use of blue SuperLumiNova in high-end diver watches (for example as currently used by Rolex). Green is actually a bit better for reading, but people are sick of green lume, so blue helps mix it up a bit. The inner sections of the hands do glow green though. There is a dot of green luminant on the rotating bezel as well. Reading the watch in the dark is easy. While the indicator and hands look thin in the dark, there should be no trouble reading the time - and they look pretty nice as well. It is also nice how the C600 still has a tube near the date indicator window, as many other watches basically skip this spot for lume as it is taken up by the date.


In addition to the green hour markers and hands, there is some green aluminum on the helium release valve that is meant to add some style. I still don't think the watch is meant to be a fashion timepiece, but that isn't its point. It is a happy, and stalwart tool that adds enough flair to never be boring. Christopher Ward put a Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement inside the watch. This is basically a Swiss made clone of the ETA 2824. Attached to the watch is a pretty basic rubber diving strap with that standard "wave" pattern near the lugs for added flex and comfort. The strap is very comfortable. It is a bit tough to get the excess strap in the loops, but many rubber straps are. I had no problems with the strap, but those who want to "dress" up their C600 might want to experiment with other straps that add a bit more flair to the design.
As a tool watch it is hard to beat the C600 Tri-Tech Elite Diver. It has a lot of desirable feature, quality construction, and a durable build. While quirky in design, there isn't much to complain about. Christopher Ward offers a nice little selection of color combos that are hard to find otherwise. In a suit, the watch might not give you a formal look, but in the right active outfit, the watch will be a perfect companion. Thus, for divers, outdoorsy types, military types, or other types of weekend warriors, the C600 is a great piece to have around. It isn't the last watch you'll ever want to own, but you won't want to give it away once you have one. As always from Christopher Ward, price is good for what you get. It retails for 399 British Pounds, which is about $615. Learn more or get a Christopher Ward C600 Tri-Tech Elite Diver watch here.
Thanks to Christopher Ward for the review unit. Opinions are 100% independent.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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MB&F HM3 “The Frog” Watch Hands-On
Posted: May 3rd, 2010, 4:55am MDT by admin



"Ribbit..." Here is the first derivative watch based on the MB&F Horological Machine # 3 (HM3) (which I wrote about here). While MB&F releases about one brand new watch each year, they also have special models based on their standard collection of Horological Machines. This watch will be known as the MB&F HM3 "The Frog." There are two versions of the watch - one in a darker, PVD black coated titanium with a green toned 22k gold automatic rotor (12 pieces), and a titanum version with a blue 22k gold automatic rotor (20 pieces). That is a total of 32 HM3 Frog watches in total. Both look pretty interesting, with this bug-eyed (I mean amphibian) eyed watch having no analogs in the watch world.
Why the "Frog?" According the MB&F one of their customers said the two dome-like structures on the original HM3 looked like frog's eyes sticking out of water - as frogs enjoy being in water with their eyes exposed to look for prey. If you read my above article you'll see that while I agree the domes looked like eyes, they are more like robot eyes. So MB&F liked the idea enough that they wanted to make a watch that truly indulged this frog fantasy. The project was much more complicated than simple changing the domes which are used for the time (one for hours, the other for the minutes). The problem was that on the original HM3 the hour dome turned once each 24 hours, but the design of The Frog called for it to turn once each 12 hours. This apparently was cause for lots of movement changes. Plus, the domes are heavier and mounted much differently. The dome "eyes" are under a perfect dome of sapphire crystal in all black and white colors. There is a tear drop shape on the top (inside the crystal) that indicates whether the dome is used for the minutes or hours. The pointed tip of the tear drop indicates where you look to read the minutes or hours.






Some people will love the beauty and imagination of the watch. Others will consider the design perhaps a bit frightening. Large creature like bulging eyes coming out of a mechanical metal instrument in luxury materials. It is a weird watch of course - probably the weirdest looking piece to come from MB&F yet, and that is actually saying a lot.
Unlike the two versions of the original HM3 (the Sidewinder and Starcruiser), which had straps attached to them in two orientations, The Frog has one orientation, that probably suits the design best. You can piece the movement through the top and bottom mounted sapphire crystals. You will also find a date display ring on the top of the watch as well. A small arrow on the case tells you were to read the date.
My opportunity to view the MB&F Frog watch was preliminary, so I don't have all the details such as the price, though you will find tech specs from MB&F below. The HM3 Frog will be in a limited edition (like all MB&F watches), and will have initial inventory likely available in and around Singapore where MB&F watches are highly prized. Availability starts this month (May 2010). MB&F considers it a "wacky" version of the HM3, and 32 collectors I am sure will be delighted. Again, 20 pieces in polished titanium, and 12 pieces in black titanium.

Tech specs from MB&F:
Horological Machine No3 Frog
Movement:
Three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor;
Girard-Perregaux oscillator and gear
Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph.
22K blued rose gold battle-axe shaped ‘mystery’ automatic winding rotor
Hour and minutes information transmitted via ceramic ball bearings to rotating domes.
Number of jewels: 36 (all functional)
Number of components: 304Functions:
Hour and day/night indicator on one dome (aluminium dome rotating in 12 hours)
Minutes on second dome (aluminium dome rotating in 60 minutes)
Date around the movementCase:
Grade 5 titanium/blue 22K gold rotor; limited edition of 12 black titanium/green 22K gold (black treated with mark-resistant silicon oxide)
Screwed-down crown
Dimensions (exclusive of crown and lugs): 47mm x 50mm x 16mm
Number of case components: 53Sapphire crystals:
Domes and both display backs with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.
Domes for indications: in aluminium, 0.58gDials:
Rotating aluminium domes, stationary handsStrap & Buckle:
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com
Black hand-stitched alligator with 18K white gold & titanium custom designed deployment buckleRelated posts:
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Oris Col Moschin Limited Edition Watch Hands-On
Posted: May 2nd, 2010, 1:06am MDT by admin

The green, white, and red colors of the power reserve indicator disc are a subtle reminder that this new limited edition watch from Oris has something to do with Italy. The dive watch is actually made as a limited edition piece with the Col Moschin in mind. Col Moschin is the Italian special forces. The only one that they have I believe. They seem pretty bad-ass (duh), and are known for having a very arduous training regiment. Col Moschin is also known as the Italian 9th Parachute Assault Regiment (you can read more about them here). While most of the elements from the Oris Col Moschin limited edition watch are taken from other Oris dive models, there are a few unique elements that makes the watch worth looking at.
In mostly titanium, the watch is 49mm wide. It doesn't wear that big due to the thick bezel. Oris has a special ring grip around the bezel that it calls the "Rotation Safety System." Part of the outer bezel is in tungsten. The point of the system is to prevent the bezel from rotating unintentionally. You need to pull (or maybe it is push) the outer ring up to rotate the bezel. It functions a bit like the concept of safety top on a prescription pill bottle. This isn't the first appearance of this special safety rotating bezel, but it works here perfectly. The case also has gunmetal toned PVD elements such as the screwed-on crown guard. The point of the watch is to be very durable and easy to use. It has a very modern military look to it - as much as an analog instrument can have in a digital world. There is still style though, such as the wave pattern on the dial of the watch like other Oris ProDiver watches.


The thick case is lighter than you might think given its titanium construction. It is 1000 meters water resistant (with automatic helium escape valve on the side of the case), as well as antimagnetic. The Col Moschin special forces needed a watch that would survive a high parachute fall straight into the watch without a hiccup, and the watch performed as intended. The sapphire crystal is AR coated on the inside making it easy to see the dial. Oris hit a sweet spot a few years ago with this dial design. Meaning it is attractive and very easy to read. The hands and hour markers have SuperLumiNova lume applied, and everything looks big enough without being too big. In addition to the date, the dial has that power reserve indicator that I mentioned along with another complication, a torque indicator for the movement. This is labeled as "Force," and functions to tell you how optimal the movement accuracy is. When a mainspring is either too tightly wound, or not wound enough, the power coming from it is different than in the mid range of being wound. This can affect the accuracy. Basically you want the watch wound enough, but not wound all the way for optimal timing accuracy. A torque indicator is a big gimmicky, more of a gadget-style information indicator. Though it is interesting to see the relative performance of your watch. You basically have all the information you need with the power reserve indicator. The "Force" indicator still is cool looking and doesn't take up much room. So all in all I think it is a nice addition.



Powering the watch is a Swiss ETA 2897 automatic movement that has been modified a bit by Oris. The back of the watch is engraved with the Col Moschin seal, and looks pretty nice. As a limited edition of 1000 pieces, this is certain one of the nicer limited Oris watches for activities purposes this year (aside from the "cultural" limited edition models they have). The rubber strap is a really nice element as well. It is thick at the lugs and tapers in sizes a bit for comfort. The nicely engineers titanium deployment strap hides excess strap on the inside. This is the new way rubber straps are being made by the best brands. Basically you get the clean look of a rubber strap that is cut to size, but here you don't have to cut it, as the strap is still totally adjustable. I say "so long" straps that have to be cut, and "long live" the
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com
hidden excess" style rubber straps. If you don't like the rubber strap or want a metal bracelet, the watch looks like it can accommodate the standard bracelet for other Oris ProDiver watches (that you'd have to get separately of course). Price for the Oris Col Moschin is between 3,000 - 5,000 Swiss Francs. Available soon.Related posts:
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Giveaway: Cadence Oarsman Hammer Watch
Posted: May 1st, 2010, 1:08am MDT by admin

May is Spring in full swing and you need an attractive, durable, and no worries watch to enjoy it in. Whether you are a rowing enthusiast or just respect the sport (or perhaps just like the watch), Cadence has an interesting watch for you - that you can win right here. This month you can enter for a chance to win a free Cadence Oarsman Hammer. The latest watch release from the US based watch company dedicated to rowing and the values behind in. The Oarsman Hammer has a specially modified 1/100 of a second chronograph that is specifically meant to calculate one's rowing rate. The unique function is actually really easy to use. The Japanese quartz chronograph movement also has a synchronized 24 hour hand. The Cadence has very easy to read hands and applied polished hour markers. It comes in a large 45mm wide steel case with a leather strap. On the dial are also the signature orange colored Cadence oars. It is a capable watch and perfect for a spring fling. Retail price is $275. Learn more about the Cadence Oarsman Hammer watch here. Read below and enter to win a free Cadence Oarsman Hammer watch.
To Enter You Must:
1. Comment on this post below with your valid e-mail address where required. In the body of your comment mention a watch annoyance you have. Something(s) that annoys you about a specific watch or certain types of watches in general.
2. Be a pal. Friend me on Facebook, and choose to Like the aBlogtoRead.com Facebook fan page (which is still in development). Ignore this if you've already done so.
3. By entering you are opting in to potentially receive occasional watch related news letters or announcements. You may opt out at any time.
4. Wait until the giveaway is over on June 1st, 2010 for the winner to be chosen at random.
A couple of basic rules. You can only enter once. You must comment with a valid e-mail address where you can be reached. Your comment must be confirmed and approved. You must complete the objectives to be considered. You are responsible for providing your contact shipping information if you are chosen. Shipping restrictions to non US entrants may apply based on sponsor's policies. Giveaway watch selection based on sponsor's inventory and watch availability. All comments made after the end of the giveaway period will not be considered. For the full terms and conditions, please click here.
Good luck, and thanks to Cadence Watches, the sponsor of the Modern Aviator watch giveaway here at aBlogtoRead.com!
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HourTime Show Watch Postcast Episode 22
Posted: April 30th, 2010, 1:15pm MDT by admin
We talk about some new times, and new versions of old divers. The typical rants ensue as well.
Listen to the HourTime Show watch podcast episode 22 here.
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Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Rose Gold and All Black Titanium DLC Watches Hands-On
Posted: April 30th, 2010, 1:35am MDT by admin

I first mentioned these two new Linde Werdelin SpidoLite watches here (check there for basic specs as well). Lately I was able to check out these watches hands-on myself. Note that these are pre-production prototypes (that have obviously been handled heavily). Now, I first became personally acquainted with the SpidoLite watch here when I reviewed one. This was the standard titanium version with its highly skeletonized case and Svend Andersen refinished vintage 1970s automatic movement. I thought that was about all the collection had to offer in its concrete colored appeal, but then Linde Werdelin stepped in with these models. Guess what? I'm going for gold here. Love that version - and it looks great with the high contrast black dial, again with gold hands on it. Actually the 18k rose gold version is being tested with two different types of polishes. One is entirely bead-blasted, and the other (my favorite) has polished edging. I think Linde Werdelin did a good job with the colors.


The black version has its appeals as well. The case is in titanium coated with black DLC (diamond like carbon). On that version the hands are in a rich blue and stand out nicely from the dark dial. One of my chief complaints about the gray version of the watch was the legibility of the hands as I felt that they blended in too much with the dial. These two new versions really address that issue, making the hands stand out really nicely. I finally totally sold on the viability of the SpidoLite model range.
Movements are all finished by Svend Andersen. They are NOS (new old stock) automatics (not sure exactly who made them). Svend's workshop did a good job on these guys. Finishing really helped preserve a certain industrialism, but removed any of the roughness and lack of refinement that unfinished watches have. You then have the very special blued gold automatic rotor and engraving done by Svend for the Linde Werdelin.



These fancy versions of the SpidoLite watches have alligator straps - but done in the special SpidoLite manner with the rectangular "portholes" on the sides. They look pretty darn good with the watches. Linde Werdelin's standard style case not only looks good but is also very comfortable to wear. You can see that the broad case is not very tall, making it very easy to wear. The style is incredibly diverse, which is why the same case has been used on pretty much every Linde Werdelin watch. In addition to looking like something out of a superhero's arsenal, the case is meant to have one of Linde Werdelin's Instruments (the Rock of the Reef) clip on to the top of it. Even though the case on the SpidoLite watches is richly skeletonized, it doesn't really have sharp edges. The two watch models are each limited to 88 pieces. The SpidoLite All Black Titanium DLC is going to be about 9,800 euros and the gold version will be 15,800 euros soon. Glad I got to check these out. If the styles appeal to you, I think you'll like what you find.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Watches On Tony Stark In Iron Man 2 Movie
Posted: April 29th, 2010, 1:12am MDT by admin


About two years ago after the release of the first Iron Man movie (not animated that is) I wrote a little article about the various watches that Robert Downey Jr. wore as character Tony Stark in the movie. I was actually pretty surprised that the article was so popular, but it was my most viewed article for over 6 months - you can check out that article on watches in the original Iron Man here. Iron Man 1 was all about Bulgari as the brand was heavily featured in the film. Tony Stark wore a few of their new watches for 2008. Now, two years later Bulgari (Bvlgari) is out, and Jaeger-LeCoultre is in. Clearly the Richemont Group brand has more money that the troubled Bulgari group, and realized that popularity of the placement.
To my knowledge, back in 2008 Bulgari never issued a press release on its watches in Iron Man. How funny it is that even before Iron Man 2 has been released, Jaeger-LeCoultre is plugging the placement like they won a prize. I actually think it was clever of them to get their watches in the film as they are a good fit. Though I am totally confused as to why they chose the watches that they did. Jaeger-LeCoultre probably didn't select the specific watches to be used in the film. That is for the film's producer, costume people, and maybe even Robert Downey Dr. The brand just makes its pieces available.



There are a number of very cool, technical looking Jaeger-LeCoultre watches that were available, but according to Jaeger-LeCoultre here is what is in the movie. I will have to see the film and determine if there are even more JLC watches in it.Regardless, here are the pieces of Jaeger-LeCoultre "Wrist Armor" in Iron Man 2.
Jaeger-LeCoultre is proudest of the special platinum (and ceramic) version of its AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT watch being worn a lot by Tony Stark. The third watch made to celebrate the Aston Martin racing partnership between them and JLC has the time (with subsidiary seconds dial), periphery date, and second timezone with quick "east/west" time adjustment. This is probably the most suitable watch for the theme of the movie given it's style. The other two watches are much more classic. Tony Stark is likely wearing them while he is in more formal attire.


Next is the quite rare Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grand Tourbillon 1833 watch. This tourbillon with regulator style second time zone also has a periphery date indicator. Pretty classy piece, and of the most subdued JLC tourbillon watches. Last is a Reverso Grande watch, likely the Reverso Grande Date. Jaeger-LeCoultre specifically says the Reverso watch in the movie is going to be the Reverso Grande 985. These are both less than common JLC watches. Why not an Extreme Lab watch? Or a Master Compressor diver or Reverso Squadra?
For viewers of the movie, the news of what watch Tony Stark is wearing might be disheartening. This is a mainstream movie, and these aren't mainstream watches. The cheapest one here is probably the Reverso Grande watch, and it will still be at least $25,000 in gold. The AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT is a limited edition and in platinum (most expensive), and the Master Grand Tourbillon, has a tourbillon and is in gold (also very expensive). Someone searching for the watches might come here, and when I mention that these higher end watches are closer to $65,000 each, the will quickly realize this new timepiece desire they have is futile. It isn't that no one can afford the watches, but 99% of the movie's viewers won't even fathom the ability to buy one. Then again, the Bulgari watches in the first movie weren't exactly bargain pieces. Also, Tony Stark is supposed to be a billionaire in the Iron Man world, so he can pretty much afford whatever he likes.
I wonder what other watches will be featured in the film. Especially what the villain character Mickey Rourke will be playing as will have on his wrist, as well as James “Rhodey” Rhodes, who is War Machine played by Don Cheadle. So awesome that War Machine is also in the movie. I'll update if necessary in May after Iron Man 2 comes out.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Bremont Supermarine 500 Dive Watch Hands-On
Posted: April 28th, 2010, 1:12am MDT by admin

Back at Baselworld last month I was really excited about seeing one particular timepiece - the Bremont Supermarine 500. When I first learned about the watch sometime ago, I wrote about the Supermarine 500 here, exclaiming that it was the watch that helped me pay attention to the new British brand. The attractive 500 meter water resistant dive watch with a vintage inspired design based on an old seaplane looked like a must have - but I needed to see it in the flesh.
As I walked in the room to meet with Bremont. I felt as though I basically mumbled hello with my eye looking past the people, and stamped right over to the table with the Supermarine 500 watches. It had been long enough and I wanted to get my hands on the watches. What I really liked about the Supermarine 500 watches was the style, tech specs, and the combination of simplicity with enough decoration not to be boring. This is truly a competent daily wear - still a rarity for me to find in the sea of available watches these days.


Bremont did a good job with look of the piece in person. I had a few minor thoughts for the design to share with Bremont, but overall it is a great looking dive watch. Size is 42-43mm wide - the standard size of medium watches these days. As you can see, it wears nicely and doesn't look too small or too large. The steel case has a neat PVD ring around it that adds to the Bremont character (part of their Trip-Tic durable case construction branding), and really helps the piece stand out from other dive watches. Clearly having a multi piece case by having the pieces contrast can result in a good look. There is an interesting long and tapered single piece crown guard that is also attached to the case near the crown that is mounted on the upper left side of the case. Another look that Bremont hopes will distinguish the Supermarine 500. Note the little propeller design engraved into the crown.
I quite like the design of the lugs that feel as though they match pieces from the famous seaplane. Even if they don't, the look of the lugs (especially when viewed from the side) is impressive and again, different. Once more, as the entire case sandwiches the PVD black, horizontal line engraved mid section, the design is imbued with an added technical feel that is more than welcome. Wearing the watch feels more than other timepieces, like a machine on your wrist.



The rotating diver's bezel is capped with a sapphire crystal ring that adds visual interest as well as scratch resistance. I've always liked that look on watch collection since I first saw it on one of the Blancpain 50 Fathoms watches (which in a way I consider a design influence to this Bremont watch). On the dial, you see more vertical lines that match those on the side of the case as well as the strap. These are meant to evoke the vertical lines on the running boards of the plane (see link to other article above for plane images). The dial is a good mixture of classic dive watch aesthetic, as well as vintage instrumentation panel (with a little bit of a retro pocket watch twist). While the dial is easy to read with purposeful hands, there are is good level of slightly subdued decorative elements. Making for a great "historic" look that still is able to separate itself from other more spartan creations. The flange ring has minute markers on it to match the smaller ring in the middle of the dial. The applied hour markers are large and attractive being covered with lume. There are a few Supermarine 500 dial colors to choose from with the light green and black being the signature look. Though I do like the blue and off-white, as well as the green and silver dial options.
Inside the watch is an ETA 2836 that has been modified a bit and is called the BE-36A movement inside the watch. The automatic Swiss movement has been COSC Chronometer certified in this watch. An important value added point that Bremont almost hides on the back of the watch. The native day/date display is on the dial with a polished metal frame around the information windows. One small suggestion I had for Bremont is to just slightly increase the height of the applied hour markers - just a little tiny bit.


The rear of the watch has an engraving of the Seaplane (looking straight at it) that the watch line was based on. Admittedly, although it is engraved well, it is not the best design. You need to stare at it too long to figure out that it is a plane, and the schematic-like illustration looks odd head-on. In addition to the case being 500 meters water resistant, it is also anti-magnetic and shock resistant, going along with the Bremont family of core durability values applied to its watches meant for activity. Bremont watches make you feel pretty confident that they can stand up to a lot. Having watches like the Martin Baker series in their collection sure helps with that.
In addition to the rubber strap, the watches are available with a really nice (and not to heavy) steel metal bracelet. The bracelet speaks for itself as you can see it in the images. I can't tell which I prefer. If I had one of the watches I would want to go with both the rubber strap and steel bracelet, and switch them out as I saw fit. In all, the Bremont Supermarine 500 is a unique luxury dive watch, even though it has a plethora of competition. The brand does an excellent job of marketing its "active" character, and the unique British edge to the design is evident in most all of their watches. While the Supermarine 500 is not without its little quirks, it is a satisfying watch that you'll easily see yourself picking up to wear regularly. Price (at least in the UK) is about $4,500 or so.
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Glashutte Original Senator Diary Watch
Posted: April 27th, 2010, 1:14pm MDT by admin


New from Glashutte Original for 2010 is the Senator Diary watch.What is it? Basically a mechanical alarm watch that can be set up to 31 days in the future as opposed to "tomorrow." It has an in-house made automatic movement with the time, date, and the unique alarm complication. What is the "diary" part of the watch? You can whisper your hopes, dreams, and celebrity crushes to the watch - and it will never share your secrets with anyone else.
See my Glashutte Original Senator Diary watch article at Haute Living here.
US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Hong Kong Auctions Indian Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Polish Auctions Singapore Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions UK Auctions Best Match Time: ending soonest Time: newly listed Price: lowest first Price: highest first Price + Shipping: lowest first Price + Shipping: highest first 
Glashutte Original Senator Navigator Panorama Date
US $4,049.00

Glashutte Original Senator Navigator Chronograph LE
US $3,300.00

Glashutte Original Senator Perpetual Calendar Rose Gold
US $19,400.00

Glashutte Original Senator Perpetual Calendar Rose Gold
US $19,400.00

Glashutte Original Senator PanoramaDate 100-03-11-01-04
US $12,100.00

Glashutte Original Senator Date/Moon 100-04-01-01-04
US $13,100.00
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Glashutte Original Senator Diary Watch
Posted: April 27th, 2010, 1:14pm MDT by admin


New from Glashutte Original for 2010 is the Senator Diary watch.What is it? Basically a mechanical alarm watch that can be set up to 31 days in the future as opposed to "tomorrow." It has an in-house made automatic movement with the time, date, and the unique alarm complication. What is the "diary" part of the watch? You can whisper your hopes, dreams, and celebrity crushes to the watch - and it will never share your secrets with anyone else.
See my Glashutte Original Senator Diary watch article at Haute Living here.
US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Hong Kong Auctions Indian Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Polish Auctions Singapore Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions UK Auctions Best Match Time: ending soonest Time: newly listed Price: lowest first Price: highest first Price + Shipping: lowest first Price + Shipping: highest first 
Glashutte Original Collection 2007 Catalog Senator Star
US $14.99

Glashutte Original Collection 2008 Catalog Senator Star
US $14.99

LNIB GLASHUTTE ORIGINAL SENATOR AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH
US $3,489.00

Glashutte Original Senator Panorama Date Moonphase
US $10,990.00

Glashutte Original Senator Perpetual Calender Steel
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Glashutte Original Senator Chronograph 18kt Rose Gold
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The Palace by Jean Dunand – The Best of BaselWorld 2010
Posted: April 27th, 2010, 11:37am MDT by Robert-Jan
Last year in Basel, during the BaselWorld 2009 show, I was introduced to Jean Dunand by my friend Frank (Monochrome), Suryia Hill (Sparkle) and Ian Skellern. Truth to be told, I had not taken the time to read about Jean Dunand time pieces and boy did I regret that. Luckily, Thierry Oulevay (owner of Jean [...] Related posts:
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JC de Castelbajac Lego Watch Collection
Posted: April 27th, 2010, 1:07am MDT by admin

Honestly, what can I really say about these watches that isn't clear from what you see. Designer Lego style digital timepieces from French designer JC de Castelbajac (JC DC). It is actually part of his whole future Lego wear lineup. You can see the Lego version of it in the video, and images from the real runway show below. Odd? Sure. Provocative? Maybe. "No darling, leave the Lego baseball cap on in bed, I like it that way." Weird stuff, but it is cool. The JC DC Lego watches comes in a number of colors - six versions to be exact. See them being worn all at the same time all Nicolas Hayek style.
The style is 80s, very 80s - but apparently that is in right now. He seems to suggest that the future will be like the 80s. Given what is going on in the world right now, I could use some of that "America is the best place in the world" mentality these days. With the popularity of Lego as well as the positive association many people have with them, I have to say that JC DC did a nice job making something interesting to look at in the least.



Important to me however are the watches. Not sure if they are officially licensed by Lego, or if that is even necessary, but you get the idea just by looking at them. The simple bright colors, and the nubs on the strap all indicate that one special building block. The watches themselves are made with a JC DC partnership with watch maker odm - known for quirky and cool (mostly) digital watches. Look out for their military style dog tags necklace watch.
The JC DC Lego watch collection is due out for sale this year - not exactly sure when or how much they will be. Likely in the $100 - $200 range given their "designer nature." The digital watches obviously have quartz movements and large "my first wrist watch" style to them. Not sure about what the functions will be aide from the time. Probably basic stuff like a calendar. Pushers might be on the back of the watch case. The strap is likely mostly rubber and has actual links near the butterfly clasp for sizing. This is preferable over having to cut the straps to size. Over the LCD screen is a colorful bezel that looks to be done in aluminum or some other metal. The JC DC logo below the screen helps add to the fashion worthiness of the watch. I can't help but think that the watches are totally cool. I don't know too much about JC DC, but I do know o.d.m. (odm), and Lego - and I like both a lot. Look out for these soon, where ever JC de Castelbajac "stuff" is sold.
See JC de Castelbajac and Lego watches on eBay here.
See Lego watches on Amazon here.
US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Hong Kong Auctions Indian Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Polish Auctions Singapore Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions UK Auctions Best Match Time: ending soonest Time: newly listed Price: lowest first Price: highest first Price + Shipping: lowest first Price + Shipping: highest first 
New Lego Star Wars Clone Trooper Wrist Leather Watch YK
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2pcs jelly fashion watch LED Unisex ODM gift wholesale
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NEW Fashion Watch WOMEN jelly Wrist watch ODM Boy Girls
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ODM Fashion jelly resin girl Wrist Watch sport Hot sale
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NEW ODM Style Sport jelly resin CUTE Wrist Watch COOL
US $.10

O.D.M Fashion Watch ODM Jelly Spin Watch SPORT Black E6
US $3.85
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comView Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 No related posts.
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TX 530 World Time Airport Lounge Watch Review
Posted: April 26th, 2010, 1:15am MDT by admin

Something about a retro map of the globe on the face of a watch that is cool. TX certain was "retro inspired" in the design of the 530 Series World Time Airport Lounge watch. The latter part of the name referring to the fact that back when air travel was still a somewhat glamorous event, airport lounges often had stylized maps of the world - often with indications of what time it was all over the globe. When the "world became smaller" and travel more accessible to pajama pants wearing travelers, flying started to suck. You pretty much need to be on a private jet or fly business class these days to travel with any sense of dignity.
As a memory of this times long past, TX has designed (and keeps to updated and enhance) the World Time Airport Lounge watch. In addition to the dial with its retro-flair, the watch has a highly curved sapphire crystal over the dial that is meant to remind you of vintage watches that has domed acrylic crystals. Good thing that TX went with a sapphire crystal. The case is 42mm wide and wears a bit large - which is good. I think the size is proper as it is a modern watch in dimensions. The steel case clearly wants to resemble some more expensive watch cases. TX gave it brushed finishing in the middle with polished beveled edges on the lugs and a polished bezel. The chronograph pushers are polished as well and have an interesting black insert ring that looks nice. The watch crown has that deeply engraved TX logo that I always appreciate. With 100 meters of water resistance, along with some interesting details, the quality of the case is OK for the price of the watch.




In addition to the alligator printed leather strap with steel deployment clasp, the watch is available with a steel bracelet. The leather strap offers a bit more of that "authentic vintage' feel. The dial tones are white and metallic grays. Almost monochromatic save for the red tip of the world time hand. Note the tapered date window that is taken directly from vintage Timex watches. TX even tapers the font of the date on the disc to match the shape of the case - a welcome detail.
Compared to many TX watches, the World Time Airport Lounge has a clean looking dial - really. Aside from the stylized map, the subdials on the dial are not too distracting. It has a retrograde GMT hand for the other second time zone, and a summer/winter indicator. Four hands from the center tell the hours, minutes, seconds, and second time zone reference city indicator. The land masses of the dial map are mirror polished. They don't distract much from reading the watch, but the fact that the watch hands are the same color sometimes makes them harder to spot in the dial at a quick glance. Time is actually easier to read when looking at the dial from an angle. I appreciate the Arabic hour numeral around the dial, but wish the watch had more/better lume. For darkness viewing you only have lume tips on the hands that really aren't sufficient.




The second time zone function is really easy to use. The pushers above and below the crown moves the red "T" tipped hand east or west to reference cities. This changes the time in the retrograde GMT subdial to reflect the right hour, and you use the main minute hand on the dial for the minutes. The retrograde hand and dial are actually easy to see don't blend in with the dial. The problem is that the hours are spaced too closely together. This means that you need to spend a second inspecting the exact hour that the GMT hand is pointing to. Though changing time zones is really easy, and you can quickly see the times around the world. The watch also features a W/S indicators that tells you whether it is summer or winter in the specified timezone. This can help you judge whether daylight saving times applies. You can manually adjust the W/S indicator via a small pusher inset in the case.
The watch movement is a special German designed proprietary quartz movement for TX. Another nice feature it has is the ability to adjust the date in both directions. So while you have a quartz movement, TX can at least claim it is an in-house quartz movement that no one else can use. Each TX movement is like this, and I must admit they get very creative in their movement designs. While most TX watches are wild and modern looking, the 530 series World Time Airport Lounge feels more classy and American in theme. Not too expensive, it s a fun watch that fits a variety of lifestyles and ages. The world map in the background with its globe style design is always interesting look at and attracts the eyes of onlookers frequently. This specific model is reference T3C474, but other versions are available with black dials and in rose gold tones. Actually, the black dial models also have the steel hands, so legibility on those is likely better (but you don't get the cool mirrored map). Price retails for $495.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comNo related posts.
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TX 530 World Time Airport Lounge Watch Review
Posted: April 26th, 2010, 1:15am MDT by admin

Something about a retro map of the globe on the face of a watch that is cool. TX certain was "retro inspired" in the design of the 530 Series World Time Airport Lounge watch. The latter part of the name referring to the fact that back when air travel was still a somewhat glamorous event, airport lounges often had stylized maps of the world - often with indications of what time it was all over the globe. When the "world became smaller" and travel more accessible to pajama pants wearing travelers, flying started to suck. You pretty much need to be on a private jet or fly business class these days to travel with any sense of dignity.
As a memory of this times long past, TX has designed (and keeps to updated and enhance) the World Time Airport Lounge watch. In addition to the dial with its retro-flair, the watch has a highly curved sapphire crystal over the dial that is meant to remind you of vintage watches that has domed acrylic crystals. Good thing that TX went with a sapphire crystal. The case is 42mm wide and wears a bit large - which is good. I think the size is proper as it is a modern watch in dimensions. The steel case clearly wants to resemble some more expensive watch cases. TX gave it brushed finishing in the middle with polished beveled edges on the lugs and a polished bezel. The chronograph pushers are polished as well and have an interesting black insert ring that looks nice. The watch crown has that deeply engraved TX logo that I always appreciate. With 100 meters of water resistance, along with some interesting details, the quality of the case is OK for the price of the watch.




In addition to the alligator printed leather strap with steel deployment clasp, the watch is available with a steel bracelet. The leather strap offers a bit more of that "authentic vintage' feel. The dial tones are white and metallic grays. Almost monochromatic save for the red tip of the world time hand. Note the tapered date window that is taken directly from vintage Timex watches. TX even tapers the font of the date on the disc to match the shape of the case - a welcome detail.
Compared to many TX watches, the World Time Airport Lounge has a clean looking dial - really. Aside from the stylized map, the subdials on the dial are not too distracting. It has a retrograde GMT hand for the other second time zone, and a summer/winter indicator. Four hands from the center tell the hours, minutes, seconds, and second time zone reference city indicator. The land masses of the dial map are mirror polished. They don't distract much from reading the watch, but the fact that the watch hands are the same color sometimes makes them harder to spot in the dial at a quick glance. Time is actually easier to read when looking at the dial from an angle. I appreciate the Arabic hour numeral around the dial, but wish the watch had more/better lume. For darkness viewing you only have lume tips on the hands that really aren't sufficient.




The second time zone function is really easy to use. The pushers above and below the crown moves the red "T" tipped hand east or west to reference cities. This changes the time in the retrograde GMT subdial to reflect the right hour, and you use the main minute hand on the dial for the minutes. The retrograde hand and dial are actually easy to see don't blend in with the dial. The problem is that the hours are spaced too closely together. This means that you need to spend a second inspecting the exact hour that the GMT hand is pointing to. Though changing time zones is really easy, and you can quickly see the times around the world. The watch also features a W/S indicators that tells you whether it is summer or winter in the specified timezone. This can help you judge whether daylight saving times applies. You can manually adjust the W/S indicator via a small pusher inset in the case.
The watch movement is a special German designed proprietary quartz movement for TX. Another nice feature it has is the ability to adjust the date in both directions. So while you have a quartz movement, TX can at least claim it is an in-house quartz movement that no one else can use. Each TX movement is like this, and I must admit they get very creative in their movement designs. While most TX watches are wild and modern looking, the 530 series World Time Airport Lounge feels more classy and American in theme. Not too expensive, it s a fun watch that fits a variety of lifestyles and ages. The world map in the background with its globe style design is always interesting look at and attracts the eyes of onlookers frequently. This specific model is reference T3C474, but other versions are available with black dials and in rose gold tones. Actually, the black dial models also have the steel hands, so legibility on those is likely better (but you don't get the cool mirrored map). Price retails for $495.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comNo related posts.
-
TX 530 World Time Airport Lounge Watch Review
Posted: April 26th, 2010, 1:15am MDT by admin

Something about a retro map of the globe on the face of a watch that is cool. TX certain was "retro inspired" in the design of the 530 Series World Time Airport Lounge watch. The latter part of the name referring to the fact that back when air travel was still a somewhat glamorous event, airport lounges often had stylized maps of the world - often with indications of what time it was all over the globe. When the "world became smaller" and travel more accessible to pajama pants wearing travelers, flying started to suck. You pretty much need to be on a private jet or fly business class these days to travel with any sense of dignity.
As a memory of this times long past, TX has designed (and keeps to updated and enhance) the World Time Airport Lounge watch. In addition to the dial with its retro-flair, the watch has a highly curved sapphire crystal over the dial that is meant to remind you of vintage watches that has domed acrylic crystals. Good thing that TX went with a sapphire crystal. The case is 42mm wide and wears a bit large - which is good. I think the size is proper as it is a modern watch in dimensions. The steel case clearly wants to resemble some more expensive watch cases. TX gave it brushed finishing in the middle with polished beveled edges on the lugs and a polished bezel. The chronograph pushers are polished as well and have an interesting black insert ring that looks nice. The watch crown has that deeply engraved TX logo that I always appreciate. With 100 meters of water resistance, along with some interesting details, the quality of the case is OK for the price of the watch.




In addition to the alligator printed leather strap with steel deployment clasp, the watch is available with a steel bracelet. The leather strap offers a bit more of that "authentic vintage' feel. The dial tones are white and metallic grays. Almost monochromatic save for the red tip of the world time hand. Note the tapered date window that is taken directly from vintage Timex watches. TX even tapers the font of the date on the disc to match the shape of the case - a welcome detail.
Compared to many TX watches, the World Time Airport Lounge has a clean looking dial - really. Aside from the stylized map, the subdials on the dial are not too distracting. It has a retrograde GMT hand for the other second time zone, and a summer/winter indicator. Four hands from the center tell the hours, minutes, seconds, and second time zone reference city indicator. The land masses of the dial map are mirror polished. They don't distract much from reading the watch, but the fact that the watch hands are the same color sometimes makes them harder to spot in the dial at a quick glance. Time is actually easier to read when looking at the dial from an angle. I appreciate the Arabic hour numeral around the dial, but wish the watch had more/better lume. For darkness viewing you only have lume tips on the hands that really aren't sufficient.




The second time zone function is really easy to use. The pushers above and below the crown moves the red "T" tipped hand east or west to reference cities. This changes the time in the retrograde GMT subdial to reflect the right hour, and you use the main minute hand on the dial for the minutes. The retrograde hand and dial are actually easy to see don't blend in with the dial. The problem is that the hours are spaced too closely together. This means that you need to spend a second inspecting the exact hour that the GMT hand is pointing to. Though changing time zones is really easy, and you can quickly see the times around the world. The watch also features a W/S indicators that tells you whether it is summer or winter in the specified timezone. This can help you judge whether daylight saving times applies. You can manually adjust the W/S indicator via a small pusher inset in the case.
The watch movement is a special German designed proprietary quartz movement for TX. Another nice feature it has is the ability to adjust the date in both directions. So while you have a quartz movement, TX can at least claim it is an in-house quartz movement that no one else can use. Each TX movement is like this, and I must admit they get very creative in their movement designs. While most TX watches are wild and modern looking, the 530 series World Time Airport Lounge feels more classy and American in theme. Not too expensive, it s a fun watch that fits a variety of lifestyles and ages. The world map in the background with its globe style design is always interesting look at and attracts the eyes of onlookers frequently. This specific model is reference T3C474, but other versions are available with black dials and in rose gold tones. Actually, the black dial models also have the steel hands, so legibility on those is likely better (but you don't get the cool mirrored map). Price retails for $495.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comNo related posts.
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How to move forwards while looking backwards?
Posted: April 25th, 2010, 10:04am MDT by Robert-Jan
Olivier Muller over at The Watch Lounge did some research about innovation in the watch industry and explains how brands move forwards while looking backwards. Olivier analyzes whether some of the brands are more or less obliged to look backwards while others are benefiting from this. What to think about new brands (like Romain Jérôme) [...] Related posts:
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Chaumet Dandy Chronograph Automatic Watch Available On James List
Posted: April 25th, 2010, 1:23am MDT by admin
In the US, one of the less known LVMH watch brands is Chaumet. LVMH, for those who don't already know, owns brands such as Zenith, Louis Vuitton, Tag Heuer, Hublot, and Dior. I really enjoy some of Chaumet's watch designs, but with models names like "Dandy" they might need a marketing refresh to be US market viable (if that is even in the cards for them). Lets not dwell on trivial marketing issues and focus on one of their cool watches from a few years ago. The Parisian brand released this Chronograph model back in 2006 I believe. It is a bi-compax style chronograph watch with a round face in a cushion case. Probably the best conceived cushion style case around. This is aided by the interesting design of the lugs.Chaumet is all about modern art deco design. Part of that is a play on asymmetry. You'll note the "racing stripes" (as I call them) on the dial that flow into the strap. This is a common element in many of their watches.
The black dial here is hard to appreciate in images. It has various shades of black from the stripes to the subdials. The polished steel segments on the dial including the hands are hour markers are eye-pleasing and calming. There are a variety of unique, but simple shapes all over the watch that aid to it being easy to love. the crown has a black cabochon it in to match the dial, while the chronograph pushers are tapered to create the illusion that the case itself tapers as well. Large lug screws feel instrumental and masculine. This is a men's watch after all.



In French fashion, this is a "brand" watch. The Chaumet name is largely highlighted on the dial creating a lifestyle component to the timepiece. Big polished letters remind you that you are a Chaumet man. A "dandy" man as well? At least the Dandy name isn't on the watch anywhere. At 40mm wide the case is a solid medium size, though it will wear "large" given the relatively thin bezel. Chaumet uses a Swiss ETA 2894-2 automatic movement. Though the 12 hour indicator for the chronograph has been removed to give it that bi-compax look. The case is 50 meters water resistant. The dial has a great looking blue chronograph seconds hand that adds a nice splash of color. There are thin strips of SuperLumiNova on the face that are colored to glow blue in the dark. You can get the watch with a leather or steel bracelet. As one of many Chaumet Dandy watches this is a nice rendition for a man who likes the style, but doesn't want to venture into the more avant garde territory that some Chaumet watches can go into. Price for these watches retails for $3,000 - $6,000 I think
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Angular Momentum Freehand TEC/A13 Piece Unique Watch
Posted: April 24th, 2010, 2:06am MDT by admin


I really think that everyone needs a wildly well-lumed 'email lumineuse' based watch by Angular Momentum. The compound is a special enamel and luminant mixture that they do so well. You've seen lume, and then you've seen Angular Momentum lume. You'll be reminded of the Jungle scenes at night in the new Avatar movie. See what I mean? All those bioluminescent tones together make for lots of eye candy. Angular Momentum has been playing with designs and this is one of the newer ones. Part radioactive warning, and part cuttle fish, this latest Freehand TEC/A13 watch is an interesting sign of the designs to come. I really like the large luminant dots on the bezel that continue mirrored on the side of the bezel. This is a very interesting style and I think it works really well.
The case is made out of Angular Momentum's new preferred steel - Staybrite 1.4435 Ncu that is specially resistant to corrosion and is very high quality. The case is 46mm wide and 12mm thick. The lugs are singular and like large knobs at the ends of the case. The strap is a very rustic looking natural rubber. The dial has the special luminant in green and blue applied right onto the 'lemon' gold face. It isn't easiest to tell in the images, but the dial is in fact gold. This creates the dial design. The hands are further covered in lume and are very wide. Actually, the hands are milled in the middle and lume enamel is filled in to the new space. This is a called Plique à Jour, while the style of the dials enamel application is called Champlevé. Angular Momentum placed a lume covered metal disc over the hand where they connect to the pins. This is a new style for Angular Momentum that enhances the look of the watch even further.



Like all Angular Momentum watches, inside the timepiece is a Swiss automatic mechanical movement, and the watch has a 3mm thick sapphire crustal over the dial. Not sure about the water resistant, but the watch should be based on the Angular Momentum Dive-Tec/500 (that I wrote about) that has 500 meters of water resistance. The Freehand TEC/A13 is after all, a diving watch in theme.
Also, the Angular Momentum Freehand watches are those made specially by watch designers in just one piece. A design designs something new and just makes it. Unadulterated by the needs of mass production or mass appeal. These are real art watches because they emphasize the singular vision of an artist. Price is probably around $5,200 - $7,000 (price range for the Freehand models depending on their style and materials). Angular Momentum makes these piece unique watches from time to time - so let them know if you are interested in one.
US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Hong Kong Auctions Indian Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Polish Auctions Singapore Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions UK Auctions Best Match Time: ending soonest Time: newly listed Price: lowest first Price: highest first Price + Shipping: lowest first Price + Shipping: highest first 
Angular Momentum Axis "Digital" Mechanical Watch
US $400.00

New ANGULAR MOMENTUM Tage Olsen Silver Dial 7019 Watch
US $1,688.88

Angular Momentum Swiss Mens Watch IL4.50.5000.QZ.AC.RU
US $399.00

Angular Momentum Swiss Chronograph Watch
US $399.00

Angular Momentum Swiss Chronograph Mens
US $399.00

Angular Momentum Swiss Chronograph Mens Watch Yellow
US $399.00
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comView Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Related posts:
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HourTime Show Watch Podcast Episode 21
Posted: April 23rd, 2010, 1:29pm MDT by admin
Discussing the interesting matter of the Costco and Omega court case, along with related internet matters. Plus the publicity worthy Romain Jerome Volcano DNA watch.
Listen to HourTime show watch podcast Episode 21 here.
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N.O.A Watches At Baselworld 2010
Posted: April 23rd, 2010, 1:04am MDT by admin


An underdog watch brand that I really like is N.O.A. Funny how Americans says the letters out (as it is actually an acronym) for "none of the above," but in Europe they seem to say it like it is a word. I met with N.O.A ("NOA") in Baselworld to check out their pieces and was really impressed. The presence the watches have is really interesting, and they are very comfortable to wear. Some of them are going to be an acquired taste, but few can say that they aren't pretty pieces. I have been especially interested in some of their more sporty pieces such as the Scyllis diver, and the prototype of their new Skandar watch (seen at the bottom here). These are just a sampling of their new pieces.



NOA watches are very bold but fresh feeling in their design. The men's and women's models have a grace to them that isn't common in many avant garde watches. Chalk it up to good design and an attention for detail and fine materials. At the top here are two of the brands new limited edition pieces. First is the NOA 16.75 G018 watch for Danilo Gallinari - limited to 188 pieces. The watch look great and has the signature of the Italian NBA player on the dial. A good looking piece at 44mm wide with a Swiss ETA quartz chronograph movement. Very similar is the limited edition piece to celebrate 200 years after the Mexican Revolution. This watch is limited to 200 pieces, and each piece has a unique number which corresponds to a date between 1810 and 2010. That is pretty neat, and I like the green, red, and white tones of the watch to celebrate the Mexican flag. Other limited edition pieces for 2010 is a model of 100 pieces to celebrate Joe Girardi, the manager of the New York Yankees (pretty cool watch for Yankees fans actually), and a limited edition of 250 pieces for the Venezuelan market - with colors of their flag.
Below that are two new models from NOA's 16.75 watch collection. Again, with Swiss quartz movement and awesome looking raised numerals and blend into the chapter ring. They are actually in painted metal and have a very high-quality look to them. These are among the best looking three-dimensional watches out there. You gotta love that refined, modern, technical look.



Then there are the cool mechanical NOA watches, my favorite of which right now are the 4.80 collection Scyllis watch. These are the dive watches of the bunch and look like implements from science fiction (but they are real). These watches come in a bunch of styles and colors. Each is in steel, and some have PVD black coatings. The watches are 45mm wide with an internal rotating diver's bezel and a helium escape valve. These watches are also too pro looking to be worn casually - but I would still pull it off. The cases are water resistant to 300 meters and have double pinned rubber strap (to make sure it is securely fastened to the case). The Scyllis watches are thinner than you would expect and have Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic movements inside.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com
Last is the concept watch from NOA that will hopefully reach production soon. I love this watch, and this is looks great. Oddly enough, this highly technical sports watch is made in honor of Alexander the Great, also known as "Skandar." The watch has the reference number of 3.56, because 356 BC is the year that Alexander the Great was born. The watch is 45mm wide in black steel, with a complex, but extremely legible dial. This is thanks to the high contrast hands. The watch contains a specially modified ETA 2892 automatic movement - with a Dubois Depraz chronograph and power reserve module added to it. NOA calls the movement the N.O.A A2081. The dial has windows for subsidiary discs (as opposed to dial), a power reserve indicator disc, and a date window. I am really digging the looks of the Skandar watch. This image is of a prototype, but after they get it ready for production, this is going to be a hot model for NOA (likely next year). Check out NOA for more interesting watches like this from their diverse and appealing collection.Related posts:
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Hermès Sertie Neige Lady’s Watch
Posted: April 22nd, 2010, 1:15pm MDT by admin
Sexy diamond covered Hermes watch with a name that means "falling snow." What more is there to say? Pretty and destined to make her smile if you have the almost $150,000 it costs to drop on it. See my full article on the Hermes Sertie Neige lady's watch here at Haute Living.
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Auth. Hermes Glissade GL1.510 Orig.Box & Tag. EXCELLENT
US $799.00

Authentic Hermes GM CAPE COD Auto
US $1,299.00

NEW HERMES PARIS H HOUR BLUE LEATHER SILVER SWISS WATCH
US $609.77

Authentic Hermes Kelly PM Quartz WATCH
US $599.00

Authentic Hermes CHERCHE MIDI PM
US $999.00

Authentic Ladies Hermes H Watch Box/Tag Wine Red Dial
US $459.00
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Doomsday Coming For Wrist Watch Retailers?
Posted: April 22nd, 2010, 1:08am MDT by admin

Watch brands are systematically killing off their network of authorized dealers that historically have helped them so much. One by one, retailers get ominous letters in the mail informing them that a long-term partner will no longer be sending them inventory. Why are the major watch brands doing this? And what does this mean for the future? Read on...
After years of struggle, and a complex accumulation of factors, the industry of selling watch is about to rapidly change. It isn't so much a matter of a black and white distinction (in terms of one thing is totally in and another thing is totally out), but the old business model is more or less - dying a slow, painful, and less than quiet death. Here is how it used to be - for well over 100 years. Watch brand sells watch at wholesale rate to watch retailer (known as the authorized dealer). Watch retailer sells the watch for the retail price and keeps the difference as its profit (usually about 50%). In exchange for buying watches from the factory before they are sold to consumers, retailers often (but not all the time) get exclusive rights in a particular area or territory in which to sell the watch. It was a win-win situation for people making watches and people who have the ability to sell the watches. This is the way it was, and people were happy (as long and consumers were buying watches that is).
Then came the Internet. At first, the one dimensional virtual world was merely a place for information dissemination. Fans might discuss watches in primitive forums, and some enthusiast communities sprouted. At some point after that in the mid to late 1990s, people started to buy and sell watches online. The borderless Internet didn't care about things like territory or manufacturer restrictions on prices. People bought and sold pre-owned watches, retailers sold hard to sell watches online at a discount, and the gray market which existed outside of the authorized dealer / watch brand relationship flourished. Then also came the sophistication of the replica market. Able to offer goods that used to be only available in seedy areas, online to compete with authentic items, and confuse consumers.

Things started to get bad for retailers who initially were excited about the prospects of the Internet. Not only were they barred by the brands from selling online, but online shops were undercutting their prices (an profits). Online retailers experienced lower cost businesses without the traditional overhead costs, and gray market goods could be cost at almost any price over cost, with no brand restrictions. This made doing business online very attractive. Though the biggest attraction of the Internet was the worldwide market. Instead of just the people who came into your store, you could do business with the world. Sure stipulations and complexities applied, but the Internet seems like the end of the retailer.
Brands and retailers fought back. Not very well, but they fought. Brands pressured consumers not to buy online, and threatened to remove warranties on products not sold in the traditional manner through retailers. Retailers communicated the value of service, personal treatment, and after-sales support to consumers as a way of getting people to buy from them. Perhaps those promises would have been enough if they could deliver. Lowering profits meant lower wages, and watch sales people quality plummeted. There are still good watch stores out there, but for the most part, good ones are few and far between.
Internet shopping was easy, efficient, no pressure, allowed for quick research, offered a world of choices, and was cheaper than buying in a store. The only advantage many stores still had was the support from the brands and the newest watches. That and the fact that many consumers actually want to touch and see watches they want to buy. Which is partially where I come in. In addition to notifying consumers about new products, I also offer advice rich reviews and actual product images. With sites like aBlogtoRead.com, you could conceivable learn about, research, and buy a watch all without every stepping into an authorized dealer's store.

Watch brands understood the major problems facing them and their business model. The Internet wasn't going anywhere no matter how much they ignored it, and it was only a matter of time until they had to deal with it. Brands had no experience with the internet. Most brands didn't (and still don't) know how to do anything but make watches. To a large degree, their problem with dealing with the Internet is one of justifiable ignorance. That and the fact that they couldn't look to others for examples on how to deal with this issue. While the economy remained pleasant from 2001-2007, they just puttered along more or less happy.
Then the economy tanked. I mean really tanked. It was hell on the luxury watch industry. Companies started laying off people like it was fashionable, and many doors closed for good. The global financial meltdown killed the desire to spend excessive amounts of money on luxury goods, especially watches. It was a do or die time to think about the future and form a new business model. The brands had a couple of problems. First, the Internet was screwing with their pricing models and their relationships with their retailers. Second, they were bloated. Overall, many of them had too many redundancies, inefficient cost structures, and a reliance on unreliable suppliers. It was really time to change things, especially while they didn't have watch sales to worry about.
Change first came internally. Many brands started getting wise to "doing it themselves." You see more and more brands with in-house movements, marketing departments, and a tendency to rely on outside suppliers as little as possible (which is still a lot in many cases). If you do use suppliers, then it is very attractive to visit China, where goods are often 50-70% of the quality, for 20-40% of the price for Swiss or other European parts.

Brands also took a very close look at the Internet and what it was doing. Are people buying watches? Are they buying expensive watches? The answer to these and more questions was undeniably "yes." Marketing was cheaper online, and setting up shop was easier as well. You could have a simple website with an e-commerce component and theoretically sell your products to people all over the world (and while watch brand websites still are horrible to navigate and slow, things are slowly changing). The only problem was the traditional retailers. The existing network of stores all over the world each with their own promised territory or expectations. Internet retailers would obviously compete with brick-and-mortars ones - no questions about it.
How to resolve the problem? The brand could sell directly to consumers online and make a deal with existing retailers to cut them in. Alternatively the brand could directly sell online and have their own brand owned stores. That way there was no competition and you could have inventory placed all over the world. More important, you wouldn't have to split profits with retailers. The new model looks like it had no place for third-party authorized dealers. Ethically a lot of issues exist. You remove a brand from a store that is selling there and you can easily force a business to shut down and put people out of work and livelihoods. Regardless, business needs dictate actions. So you know what is being done.
Terminating relationships with third-party retailers also solved a few other problems. Because there was no more wild card authorized dealers selling unsold stock into the gray market, the gray market would eventually not include their brands, or only include pre-owned models. This way pricing was much better regulated and you could feel more confident that there was price consistency. Also, you could have a very linear marketing approach. Advertise online and the ad could link directly to e-commerce site, and consumer could buy a watch right away. No longer would you need to rely on a consumer to proactively "call for more information."

While much of what I am explaining is a quick and dirty simplified look at the history and state of the industry, this is exactly what is happening right now. I am making it a point not to mention specific brands, but you are going to see more brand boutiques and online sales direct from brand very soon. Brand owned boutiques will take over much of the need that third party stores used address. The brand boutiques still serve an important function. Not only for inventory, but also for people who need to physically see watches and want that in-store sales and service experience. That type of need or customer request isn't outmoded, so it should still be available. Only now, it will be the brands themselves that facilitate it.
Currently, authorized retailers all over the world are having their status as authorized dealers stripped from them. Brands are finding any little reason to do so, or are simply pulling the cord on the relationship. All of this is in preparation for an onslaught of brand boutiques (first in major markets and cities), and of course for online brand sales. Does this mean that every authorized dealer or independent watch retailer will go extinct? No. They will still be helpful as many of them have excellent customer relationships and placement. But they will be much less common. Also, smaller independent brands that don't have the resources for such ambitious plans as the major companies will find new welcoming doors at retailers that traditionally would have shunned them.
The future as I see it will be very different. Major watch brands will have their own brand boutiques all over the world and offer direct to consumer online sales. Prices will be very static, and the gray market will shrink significantly (unless the brands themselves feed that market). The remaining independent watch retailers will carry smaller brands, and be harder to find. In addition, new businesses will pop up to help small brands get online and market themselves properly for worldwide sales. There are a number of logistical and legal issues to figure out, but it is all coming sooner than you might think to a place near you. As of now major brands have begun to offer online sales. They still aren't as smooth as they should be, but the slow to change watch industry is seriously changing course.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Top 10 Japanese Watches
Posted: April 21st, 2010, 1:09pm MDT by admin
AskMen.com commanded that I make a list of the top 10 Japanese watches currently available. I am not even the type of person who is able to choose a favorite movie or food. But it looks like list making is popular, and you all enjoy it. The list of the top Japanese watches includes Seiko, Citizen, Casio, and Orient watches. Everything in the list if a good choice. Even # 10 is still in the "top 10." So check it out, comment if you feel so inspired, and feel free to come up with your own additions to the list or lists of your own.
Read my Top 10 Japanese Watches article on AskMen.com here.
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Marvin Watches over at MotoringExposure
Posted: April 21st, 2010, 9:10am MDT by Robert-Jan
As every wednesday, it is Wednesday Watch over at MotoringExposure. Today it is time to put Marvin Watch in the spotlight! This brand, over 150 years old, has recently been re-invented and the on-line promotion and presence is unbelievable. This brand knows how to put themselves back on the horological map again. Reasonable priced (mechanical) time [...] Related posts:
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Tiffany & Co. Watches Do Not Shine In 2010
Posted: April 21st, 2010, 1:11am MDT by admin

For the most part I have great admiration for the watches that Tiffany & Co. has sold over the years. For a while, they combined their inventory with personally branded watches and ones from brands such as Rolex and Patek Philippe. Tiffany & Co. branded watches from the 1990's for example were very cool. I wrote a lot about the famous Streamerica watch designed by Jorg Hysek (you can search for it here on aBlogtoRead.com to the right, as I have written about it several times), and I personally reviewed a Tiffany & Co. Mark T-57 Automatic watch here. Tiffany & Co. was very quiet about their watch operation. Little media, and more or less merely relied on in-store foot traffic to notice their watches. Watches were made and designed by outside partners, while in-house people at Tiffany curated the designs and styles.
Then a few years ago the Swatch Group wiggled its way in deeper to Tiffany & Co.'s watch making arm. Swatch Group became a licensee of the Tiffany & Co. name, and would make and design their watches (probably with some approval rights from Tiffany & Co.). Although Tiffany & Co. made some nice watches prior to this relationship, I understand that they had issues with supply, service, customer service, and other issues relating to the production and service side of the watches. That and the fact that only a handful of key Tiffany & Co. employees knew anything about watches. They rest of their staff in stores were clueless.


So whatever the reason may be, we are now faced with the fact that the Swatch Group runs the watch making side of Tiffany & Co. From a logistical side of things I am sure it is run well, but I have had issues with the watches that have been released out of this new partnership from day one. Last year I published this article discussing how I felt underwhelmed by the new Tiffany & Co watches at Baselworld 2009. This was the first time we had seen new pieces from the Tiffany and Swatch deal. My problem was all about the designs.
Let me explain what I think a Tiffany & Co. watch should be. Tiffany items have always had a very refined, lasting aesthetic to them. Nothing wild, nothing too avant garde, just tasteful pieces that look almost timeless in design. In addition to that, something wearable from Tiffany should be generation-less. Meaning that it should look good on a 20 year old, and still look good on that same person when they are 40. Thus, the items aren't about being youthful or mature, just nice looking. Tiffany has held this concept in high regard, and if you stroll around one of their stores you will see this underlying design principle at work in most of what they sell. So traditionally Tiffany watches have been like this. Good looking pieces that grown on you and are simple to live with. The very essence of prudent good taste.



And then 2009 saw lots of rubber, silly looking dials, and some questionable designs. Nothing about the new watches communicated a lack of physical quality or watches that were too hard to read, but rather they lacked the right design, as well as refinement. No longer was Tiffany & Co. the maker of classy watches. That isn't to say that none of their new watches is classy or well done, but such "proper models" are certainly more rare in the line up. I actually even like a few of their new watches. For instance the Atlas three-hand men's watch in steel and rubber is pretty cool. The chronograph looks too silly for me, but overall the watches are decent. Decent yes, but not Tiffany. These look more akin to watches offered by Calvin Klein (coincidentally another Swatch Group licensee brand). Maybe good for $500, not good for $5,000. So there is nothing wrong with them, but they don't match what Tiffany's exacting image requirements should be, and don't look at all like watches that should cost a few thousand dollars. Swatch Group apparently is really confident that the Tiffany & Co. name alone on a watch will overcome design not fit for the brand. These are lower cost looking watches with a Tiffany & Co. name on them. I would prefer watches that look more expensive than they are and have the Tiffany & Co. name on them.
The Atlas Dome models are about the only new pieces from the partnership that speak to me at all. Of course, these are based on the previous Atlas collection, so there isn't too much creativity going on. The women's watches in the new collection are often too girly or described as "cocktail watches." Meaning that they have cheeky designs are aren't meant for serious occasions? What happened to Tiffany being the brand you could wear on your wedding?


I've posted a few images of Tiffany & Co. watches here from the last two years. I met with the friendly people at Tiffany & Co. recently. Nice people and delicious cupcakes made in traditional Tiffany & Co. blue color. They did not allow me to photograph the watches - so I respected that. So I have seen the pieces, and I am not talking merely from seeing images.
Moving forward I have a few recommendations for Tiffany & Co. First of all, lose some of that rubber. Your men's Atlas watches on the steel bracelets feel like they are half rubber (can't see here but the sides of the case are all rubber as well). You want a nice two-tone look with steel and black? Fine, just use something else for black aside from rubber. Cut down on the SKU's. You have way too many new watches, and it is overwhelming. Yes, I know you have lots of markets to cater to, but none of these pieces has any personality or much character. They look like department store watches from a design standpoint, but they are supposed to be sold in high-end stores. Cease the too youthful designs. Again, when people want fun looking watches meant for young women they have lots of brands to choose from. When someone wants a sober and serious watch to make them feel proud and appear tasteful, they go to Tiffany. You've basically left them only a few options. I mean seriously, a watch with "5AV" (for 5th Avenue) meant only for tourists to the New York City store? Is that what Tiffany & Co. is all about?
Prices of the Tiffany watches here range from roughly $3,000 - $5,000 (more for models in gold or with diamonds). Perhaps you agree that all of these designs look like watches at those price levels. Personally? I think the designs are cool, but entry-level, fashion market cool. Tiffany isn't about 'cool,' it is a bout good taste and refinement. These watches for the most part are not that. I have high hopes that Tiffany & Co. in the future and hope that they start seeing the design and poise that their brand demands, and partnership with Swatch allows for.
See Tiffany & Co. Watches on eBay here.
See Tiffany & Co. watches on Amazon here.
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TIFFANY & CO 14K GOLD WATCH 36 DIAMONDS IN SUEDE BOX
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TIFFANY & CO. MARK T 57 AUTO CHRONO DAY/DATE MEN WATCH
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Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comView Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Related posts:
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Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon Watch Hands-On
Posted: April 20th, 2010, 1:03am MDT by admin

Here is some hands-on treatment of my favorite Greubel Forsey watch. I was happy to spend some wrist time with the Double Tourbillon Technique timepiece last month. About half a million dollars was on my wrist (retail is about $470,000), and it felt pretty darn good. I wrote about this watch on Luxist a while ago when it was originally announced and then again on Haute Living here. And now I will write about it for a third time. I pretty much can't get enough of it I suppose. For more technical details about the watch you can refer to those articles. I want to share with you what it is like to spend time with the watch, not just "crunch the numbers," so to say.
At 47.5mm wide in either red or white gold, and even platinum - this is a statement about wealth. I don't care how little you know about watches, if you see this one someone's wrist you are going to assume it is expensive. If you wear this watch around people who don't appreciate it, you either hang out with the wrong crowd, or really wore the wrong watch that day. The watch is, in a nutshell, mechanical art (but maybe a bit secretly so). The Double Tourbillon Technique and watches from brands such at MB&F share a similar theme - a certain celebration of the machine and finely made mechanics. It isn't so much about what the item does, but more about watching it work, and understanding the enormous about of time and attention required to make it. This is about as opposite of modern industrialization as you can get. Hundreds of hand-loved pieces go into the watch and the movement. Almost not a single of them can be mass produced or industrialized in any way.


The reason I like the watch so much is because of the movement design. It was styled to be visually appreciated. Most wonderful looking things that a watch can do are impossible to see. Brands give us these fancy computer generated movies that look like spaceship journeys into a movement - with techno music. These little videos are fun and get us excited, but we know that all the cool internal views of a movement are things we will never see with. At the same time, you have movements such as the in-house made Greubel Forsey GF 02s manually wound movement seen here in this watch, that is made to be looked at and appreciate in many angles with the naked eye. The genius is in the layout and open spaces - not merely the functions. Sandwiched by sapphire crystals, Greubel Forsey watches you intently examining the watch on a regular basis seeing the gears turning and the dials moving. It is like a little miniature sculpture gallery on your wrist.
Functions in the watch aren't extensive, but clearly useful. Although the watch really has no dial to speak of, it is actually really easy to read! Seriously. Around most of the dial is a chapter ring made from sapphire crystal, that has gold hour markers applied to it. Then you have the large hands with lume tipped arrows that are quite conspicuous, even given all that is going on in the dial. Sure it is not going to be a pinnacle of "at a glance reading," but you don't need to sacrifice too much function for the form.



As the name of the watch makes clear, this timepiece has a double tourbillon. What does that mean? Well it is not exactly two tourbillons (like you see in some other watches such as Roger Dubuis sometimes does), but rather one tourbillon located inside of another tourbillon. I believe that this is much more complicated to do - clearly. So what you have is a diagonally mounted one-minute tourbillon (makes a complete revolution each minute) inside of a four minute tourbillon. this does not take up as much area as you would think. The outer tourbillon has sapphire hands that stick out of it that go along a scale as the bottom of the watch. They are used for tracking the four minute rotation time of the tourbillon. So that you don't need to look at the little inner tourbillon, the watch has a separate seconds subsidiary dial located close to 9 o'clock.
Located at three o'clock is a power reserve indicator. The manually would movement hold up to 120 hours of power. That is a lot, and it is spread out through 4 mainspring barrels that are all stacked on top of one another. It looks like a large cylinder on the dial and can't be missed at between 10 and 11 o'clock on the dial. The whole thing spins when you wind the watch. There is constant movement going on the dial at all times. That mixed with the very high-grade finishing and polishing of the movement pieces makes it all very nice to constantly look at. You can also be sure that unlike some larger watches, the Double Tourbillon is very comfy to wear. Very ergonomic in design, with a well fitting padded black alligator strap. The deployment clasp is pretty neat as well. I like it when smaller indy watch makers take into consideration these elements of a watch as well.
If you have the money for a watch like this, there are very few other timepieces that will regale you as often, seeming to suggest "the price was totally worth it." You can probably notice in the images the nice polish on the bridge edges, the different colors and finishes on the metals, and of course the thoughtful use of red color for all the information parts of the movement (aside from the main hands of course). Even the blackened back plate of the movement helps to significantly bring all the details out. It is masterful piece of mechanical art, and it happens to also tell the time. Plus, it is done in such a manner than you might never even notice that it is art at all, being so draped in a blanket of technicality. I really do appreciate this watch and will continue to meet with Greubel Forsey just to wear their watches as I won't ever be able to afford them.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Seiko Spring Drive SNR005 Watch Review
Posted: April 19th, 2010, 1:04am MDT by admin

I've been in love with Seiko Spring Drive for a while. Ever since Seiko sat me down and indoctrinated on the technical and practical benefits of their innovative Spring Drive movements, I was sold. I've discussed what Spring Drive movements are at length in other articles. You can find a list of articles where I discuss Seiko Spring Drive here. Though to reiterate, producing the Spring Drive movement was a long standing goal for Seiko. It took them over two decades to do so, despite the fact that they have some pretty clever engineers over there in Japan. While I understood Spring Drive movements pretty well, I have now had the opportunity to live with Spring Drive via the Seiko SNR005 watch. So how does it feel?
The Seiko SNR005 watch is one of the first commercially available Spring Drive movement based watches that was released a few years ago. There are still some of them available, and they were quietly released to a few select dealers in the US. It was not until the Seiko Ananta Spring Drive watches that Seiko really started to market their availability. I think that they wanted to test the waters a bit and see how much value consumers would place on having the benefits of a Spring Drive movement, given the price (which was about $3,900 retail).
Seiko (and some other Japanese watch makers) have a tendency to place complex new movements in classic looking watches. To Americans, we often want the opposite. New technology? Give it to us a package that looks high tech. Seiko doesn't really do that all the time, and part of that has to do with their history. You'll notice that in the past they have often placed interesting technology in less "wild looking" watches. Though that hasn't always been the case.

It is very likely that the SNR005 was designed for the Japanese market, but Seiko decided to test it outside of Japan as well. Therefore, the design is beautiful and interesting, with a distinct Japanese twist. Images of the SNR005 don't really do it too much justice. I recall a few years ago seeing images of it and thinking "well, that is interesting, but I am not totally sure about this one." Once you are able to wear the watch a bit you really appreciate it. While the design isn't perfect, it is an extremely capable classy watch, with a super cool movement, and a solid construction. People used to lower-end Seiko watches only, will be pretty impressed by a watch like this. It blows more entry level Japanese watches out of the water.
The SNR005 watch comes in a 42mm wide case that feels proper in size. The case has an unusual construction with an indented side that makes it look a bit like a spool without any string on it. Though the shape is augmented by substantial lugs that come out of the middle section of the case. It is actually made like a steel sandwich. Polished steel on the top and bottom, with a brushed steel middle section. The lower polished piece is screwed on and contains a sapphire crystal caseback for a view into the movement. More on that later. Seiko has done an immaculate job finishing the case. The various styles of polish are very well done, moving beautifully between polished and brushed surfaces. I have witnessed Seiko's workers perform these polishes and have to admit that Seiko's clever techniques make for very nice watch parts. Most finishes of this quality tend to be found on much more expensive watches. Plus, despite the many sharp looking angles on the watch, nothing feels sharp or jabs into your wrist. This watch is very comfortable to wear.

As a precursor to Ananta, you can see were a lot of the SNR005, and its family of watches had a big influence on later high-end Seiko watches such as the Ananta collection. You see this in the lugs, hour markers, and hands. Each smaller here, but later blown up a bit for the Ananta watch collection. After having time with the SNR005 I have come to appreciate its many fine details. Images of the watch can't allow you to appreciate them as well as I would like to convey them. For example, the hour markers on the watch are diamond polished, and very sharp looking - not easy to show in images. Most of them look too thin to have such polishing, but they do. The watch hands feel stubby, but aren't. This is because of their large counterweight. They, like the Ananta watches, look like swords. The seconds hand and power reserve indicator hand are more needle-like.
Against the charcoal black dial, the polished steel hands look very attractive. In some lighting situations they blend together a bit, but not too much. Legibility for the watch tends to be better than one expect expects. This is aided by the very easy to see sloped chapter ring, with hour and minute markers applied to it. Also, the Seiko SNR005 has an AR (anti-reflective) coated on one side sapphire crystal that gives the dial almost no glare. This makes viewing the dial a delight.
Seiko has paired the SNR005 watch a great bracelet. The links are fitted closely together for an almost seamless look, and it fits very tightly with the case. The three link design has the thinner outer links given a polished finish, while the thick inner link has a brushed finish. It makes for a handsome style that feels classy and conservative. I would however had liked the outer polished link to also be polished on the underside of the bracelet - where the bracelet has an all brushed finish. Not sure the reason this is, perhaps there is a good reason that I am not aware of. The most avant garde part of this watch is the case design, so the bracelet like I said, is simple and attractive. The bracelet has a butterfly push-button deployment clasp, that is simple to use. It gives the bracelet a seamless look while on the wrist. I appreciate that Seiko designed the bracelet with "half links." These are links that are smaller than the standard ones so that you can adjust the size of the bracelet a bit more precisely.


Let's go back to Spring Drive, the main event at this show. You notice some interesting differences when using the watch, even if you knew nothing about the movement. There is of course the "glide motion" seconds hand. Spring Drive has a seconds hand that sweeps smoother than anything you've seen before. This is because it is not based on a series of very small ticks like a normal mechanical movement. Instead, it moves forward in one continuous motion, without stop. It is a bit hard to return to less smooth seconds hands after having Spring Drive. Related to this is silence - the Spring Drive movement is silent. Like a car with an electric engine, you know it is working but you can't hear it. Some people enjoy the rapid "ticking" of a mechanical watch, and others are annoyed by it. Either way, you get pure serenity with this Seiko.
The SNR005 watch contains a Spring Drive caliber 5R65 automatic movement. It has 30 jewels and a power reserve of about 72 hours. This movement has the basic Spring Drive features that other movements have expanded upon. This includes the time, date, and power reserve indicator. You can hand wind the movement as well of course. You'll hear a different type of sound than you normally would with a standard mechanical watch. Because Spring Drive has a mainspring and not a battery, that is what the crown is winding. When the mainspring runs down, instead of feeding power to an escapement, it feeds power to a special quartz regulator that acts like a brake. It slows the power to be highly consistent. The release of this power can be seen by the "glide wheel," which is what replaces an escapement. Seeing this wheel in action (through the back of the watch) allows you to understand why the seconds hand moves so smoothly without ticking. I like that Seiko placed the date on a dark colored disc to match the dial. Back on the matter of winding. Hand-winding the movement feels very efficient, while it seems to take automatic winding a bit more to power the watch to full. After a day of wearing the watch, the power reserve won't necessarily be lower than it originally was, but it won't necessarily be in the full position either. This means that the watch won't run down on you, but if you live a less "wrist active" lifestyle or don't wear the watch as much, I recommend putting it in a watch winder or keeping an eye on the power reserve indicator to hand-wind it if necessary.

People have argued over the placement of the power reserve indicator. For what it is, the design is pleasant. Though I do understand it is still controversial to some. The dial is very easy to read and has a vertically textured engraving compared to the flat, almost metallic tone surface of the rest of the watch. Is the power reserve indicator bigger than it needs to be? Perhaps. It is too big? No. Seiko is likely interested in branding Spring Drive based watches. It doesn't want people to have to check out the small "Spring Drive" label underneath the Seiko logo. As such, a large power reserve indicator such as this might be the way it wants consumers to identify Spring Drive apart from other Seiko watches. Spring Drive does after all, have a very bright future, and there will be more of them released over time.
If you need just one reason to be interested in Spring Drive based movements it is the concept of "the best of both worlds." The technical interest and emotion of a mechanical watch, and the accuracy of a quartz movement. Spring Drive is as accurate as standard quartz movements (approx. +/- 15 seconds a month). Seiko advertises accuracy within one second per a day. Using the watch I found it to be at least this accurate, if not more accurate. The smooth gliding hand, incredibly complex to engineer movement, and a reasonable power reserve make it hard to resist wanting one. Plus, Spring Drive movements are made in Japan and hand assembled by some of Seiko's best. There is little or nothing available from Europe with this level of quality and "human treatment" for these prices.
As a classy watch with interesting but subtle character, and a great level of technological sophistication, the Seiko SNR005 is a great choice. There are other models in this collection available with different colors or various complications. If this collection just isn't for you, then you are probably still interested in Seiko Spring Drive. Honestly, the appeal of the movement is hard to resist. There is a growing collection of Spring Drive movement based watches. From Ananta, to Grand Seiko, and others - this is going to be a special marquee for Seiko for the foreseeable future. Yes, the price for Spring Drive watches is more than you might expect from Seiko, but these are really different watches. In my opinion if you upgrade from more mainstream Seiko or Japanese watches to Spring Drive or another high-end Seiko watch, you will be pretty satisfied with your investment.
Thanks to Seiko for the review unit. Opinions are 100% independent.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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Louis Chevrolet Driver 1911 Watch
Posted: April 18th, 2010, 2:22am MDT by admin

Yes, there is a watch company named after the guy who started Chevrolet - the same GM Chevrolet car maker. American icon Chevrolet has Swiss origins. Louis-Joseph Chevrolet, was a Swiss race car driver that founded along with William Durant the Chevrolet Motor Car Company back in 1911. In just 6 short years it was bought by General Motors. They must have been doing something right!
A few years ago the Louis Chevrolet watch company sprouted up in Switzerland. GM was pretty irked about this and the use of the Chevrolet name by the watch company and some legal matters ensued. In the end GM backed down - realizing there was no point fighting a small Swiss watch maker that could only help the automotive brand, not hurt it. As such Louis Chevrolet makes about 1000 watches a year with plans on making up to 5000 a year. Prices for the watches aren't too bad at between about $1000 - $8000 a piece. You can see some images of the brand's watches that I snapped here in the article. Some of their watches have a really cool dark blue PVD coating that is really neat.
In 2011 they will release this very unique Driver 1911 watch in celebration of the 100 year anniversary of the Chevrolet Motor Car Company. This is one strange watch, and an ambitious feat. It obviously is reminiscent of the other motoring styles watches that a leaning face that makes it easier to read why your hands are on a steering wheel. See Parmigiani for watches like that. But there is a lot more to the upcoming Driver 1911 watch. The watch is meant to look like the hood of a car, complete with engine. Actually the design of the watch is a cross between an instrument panel, bonnet (as the English say) and engine. If you check out the video you can see more of what I am talking about.
The most distinguishing part of the design is the exposed engine pistons that move like a real engine's would. In a V8 layout of course. I will have to wait until 2011 to see how this actually works. Mechanically I get it though. It seems like it would suck up a lot of power from the movement. Louis Chevrolet banked on that, so they put two movements in the Driver 1911 watch. At least one is a modified ETA 2892-2 automatic movement. It is operated by one of the crowns that looks like a gas cap. There is also a power reserve indicator for it and a "service life" indicators. This gauge tells you when to get the watch serviced (no check engine light is supplied). Apparently this goes into the red after the watch has been operating for 20,000 hours. The watch dial itself is attractive with a circular pattern and orange Arabic hour markers and lume covered segmented hands.




I'd be curious to know what the watch case itself is going to be make out of it. It is black and shiny, but these are just renders. Steel with an automotive grade paint job? That would be cool. When I met with Louis Chevrolet a few months ago the Driver 1911 was still just a concept, so they didn't even have prototypes. The oddly shaped case will be 55mm wide and 22mm tall. Like I said, the watch will have two movements. The second will be for the pistons and will be activated on command. This system has its own crown and power reserve indicator. It will also have some type of "rev counter" that shows how fast the pistons are turning. Gimmicky? Sure. But it will likely prove fun to play with. Both movements should be partially visible through the bottom of the watch. This odd little fellow is going to be an important piece for the brand as they are looking to grow. The Louis Chevrolet Driver 1911 watch will be available in a limited edition of only 100 piece.s Probably enough to suit demand. No matter how much I am weirded out by this watch, I can't wait to handle one.
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Baume & Mercier Classima Executives Magnum XXL Watch
Posted: April 17th, 2010, 12:57pm MDT by admin


This was one of the best new Baume & Mercier at SIHH 2010, and that really isn't saying much. The brand's return to "heritage" (wow, isn't that starting to sound REALLY cliche these days) has a release of "classic" looking watches. A term that is starting to get on my nerves these days. Like the watch industry is so confused as to what happened in the last 10 years they are just trying to erase is and start from scratch. The Classima Executives Magnum XXL is actually two watches - see my images from the show. Nothing wrong wit them, but they don't really excite me as much as Baume & Mercier would like for them too.
See my Baume & Mercier Classima Executives Magnum XXL watch article on AskMen.com here.
See Baume & Mercier watches on eBay here.
See Baume & Mercier watch on Amazon here.
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Raymond Weil Nabucco Va, Pensiero Watch
Posted: April 17th, 2010, 1:16am MDT by admin

The major men's watch release from Raymond Weil this year was a new Nabucco (the name sounds too much like Nabisco to me and I think of snacks) Va, Pensiero. The odd, "comma containing" name comes apparently from a famous Verdi chorus. Does this watch remind you of anything Verdi or Opera related? Cause it doesn't for me. Get this, Raymond Weil actually writes this in their press information, the Nabucco Va, Pensiero "exudes the same power and nobility as the great Italian composer's Opera." Wow, I've only seen greater BS while staring at a cow's ass.
I hope someone who writes for Raymond Weil got a bonus for that gem of a quote. There is nothing wrong with the sand-blasted titanium watch, but lets not get all operatic here. This is no watch to sing about. Though you could buy one and play some Verdi music during a video recorded "un-boxing" session. That would be dramatic enough.
The gray tones all over the watch add to the titanium feel, as well as function as Raymond Weil's hat thrown into the gray watch trend. The 46mm case is made from a few titanium pieces and has some interesting intended sides. Style is pretty much standard Nabucco with a few little changes here and there. The dial features three colors of gray. The hour indicators are SuperLumiNova anthracite, while the chronograph frame is a more cement colored gray, contrasting with the dustier toned dial. Raymond Weil gives the dial an interesting "step" texture that I like. The dial is OK, a bit busy, but still attractive. My main concern are the hands. They blend in with the dial too much. You can't tell in the marketing images, but they don't fare to well in all lighting situations. Raymond Weil should have done the hands in a much lighter tone to contrast with the gray. I bet yellow hands for the time and chronograph subdials would have been cool.

The case is 200 meters watch resistant that Raymond Weil is apparently very proud of. This is ultra standard for more timepieces of this type, but they feel as though the watch is "exceptionally resilient and water-resistant." I am starting to think that if the person who wrote this was a woman and was on a date, it would go really well for the guy. Really no matter what he was like, she would flatter him and bolster what attributes he had. There would be a lot of "you are exceptionally handsome, and I am not at all resilient to your charms," being thrown around by her.
As a design element, Raymond Weil pumps up the tachymeter around the bezel. I mean look how large it is. These are one of the least used features on watches around, and yet the Nabucco watches are designed to make it seem like you'd use a tachymeter (tachometric scale) on a daily basis. It does add aesthetic and character to the design, but I feel as though its placement just reaffirms the fact that many Raymond Weil watches are not made for serious watch lovers. And that is OK, we aren't a giant demographic. But satisfy us, and you've pretty much satisfied everyone else as well. Though interestingly enough, Raymond Weil watches are very popular in the US. Probably because of their distribution and comparatively reasonable prices for well-made watches.
The Nabucco Va. Pensiero houses a Swiss ETA 7753 automatic chronograph movement. This is basically a modified 7750 with the chronograph subdials in a tri-compax layout and the day of the week indicator removed. The date is still there though. A solid movement that is nothing to be ashamed of. The chronograph pushers are screw down, and there looks to be a helium escape valve on the watch (though I am not really sure why). I like the deeply engraved Raymond Weil "RW" logo in the crown. The large watch is matched to a black crocodile strap. Price is probably in the $4,000 - $5,500 range when it will be released soon. Last, let me give you one final gem from the press release. "Let the Nabucco Va, Pensiero spirit you away on the wings of freedom." I have decided that these press releases are more or less like Mad Libs when it comes comes down to it. "add brand name here, add adjective here, add animal part here."
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comNo related posts.
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HourTime Show Watch Podcast Episode 20
Posted: April 16th, 2010, 12:40pm MDT by admin
In episode 20 of HourTime we talk about some of the great Bell & Ross watches of Basel 2010 as well as what a "Chronometer" is. I don't think there have been any Bell & Ross Chronometers though. Still, you are gonna love the Vintage BR 123 and 126 models, as well as the BR03-92 Military Ceramic. We also talk about the Eterna Kontiki Diver that was suddenly brushed under the rug and became the Porsche Design P'6780 Diver watch.
Listen to HourTime Show watch podcast episode 20 here.
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What are you wearing today?
Posted: April 16th, 2010, 9:34am MDT by Robert-Jan
Almost all watch forums seems to have these weekly or even daily threads about what’s on your wrist today. Well, in my case it is quite easy, the vintage Submariner I recently got is hard to beat on a sunny day like this Our friends over at the German Rolex Forum (Das Rolex Forum) [...] Related posts:
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Orbita Sparta 1 Mini Giveaway Winner Follow Up
Posted: April 16th, 2010, 1:26am MDT by admin

aBlogtoRead.com reader Michael L. was the lucky winner of the Orbita Sparta 1 Mini Watch Winder giveaway help a few months ago. He was nice enough to take some images of his winnings and provide his thoughts. I reviewed the Orbita Sparta 1 Mini myself here. Overall I think he really liked the winder for its easy functionality and quite use. Though Michael is a man which larger wrists, and some of his watches may have felt large (but not necessarily too large in the winder). Here are his thoughts (I comment a bit in there as well).
The winder is not overly large, yet I was very pleasantly surprised that it could hold my watches just fine. I have larger than normal wrists, 8.25-8.5" around and tend to wear larger watches. A good size for me is 46 mm, and I can go up to 52 mm without it looking too silly. Most of my automatics are between 46 and 48 mm.
The Orbita winder comes with two different pillows. The thicker of the two fit perfectly for my watches with bracelets sized to my wrists. The first watch I put in there was my 48 mm Debaufre Nav B-Uhr LE. It was a perfect fit around the pillow, the pillow slid into the holder and that fit perfectly into the winder.



This winder is quiet! It sat a few feet away from me by my desk and I couldn't hear it at all. The output takes 10 minutes to make a complete rotation. That means the watch will slowly rotate clockwise for five minutes and then will swing back for forth a bit and then sit still for five minutes until the motor catches the pin on the holder and starts moving it again.
This leads me to the first minor issue I had. When I first got the winder I did try to put a number of different watches in there. I suppose it's possible to just pull out the pillow, but often I'd pull the holder out as well. [Ed. note - the holder is designed to be pulled out as well. It is perfectly safe for operation and can be pulled out easily and safely.] Once I didn't push the holder in far enough for the lever on the motor's output to catch the pin, but I didn't notice it. There's no obvious indication available at all times to show the winder's working. For five minutes the watch is perfectly still and for the next five it slowly rotates 180 degrees. Sure, if it's someplace where you can see it you should notice that every 10 minutes it swings back and forth, but it just so happened that was the last watch I put on the winder for the evening and then didn't look at it again until the next afternoon. I was very surprised that the watch had stopped running. It took me a while to figure out what I did wrong: not push the holder in all the way. [Ed. note - it is true the the pillow holder needs to be put back in all the way. It is possible to not realize this the first time, but it is easy to put it in all the way, and not make the mistake again.]
The motion of this winder is the gentlest of any I've ever owned. It takes five minutes for the watch to rotate through 180 degrees and then it swings back and forth a few times and rest for another five minutes. All of the watches I put on the winder had ETA 2824s in them and they all continued to run for as long as they were on the winder. I wondered if there would be enough movement, as according to Orbita's web site, my watches with the 2824s in them need 650 revolutions/day. This Orbita's motor only makes 144 turns/day, but every 10 minutes the watch does swing back and forth. None of my watches stopped, but perhaps they were running down and eventually they'd stop... [Ed. note - Myself and Orbita have done lots of testing to ensure that the motion of the Orbita 1 Sparta Mini fully winds watches. It is true that it appears to wind watches less, but this is not actually the case. The momentum created when the weight drops is actually without and jerkiness, and results in a significant amount of force for the rotor to wind a good deal.]
I took one of my watches (the Glycine Lagunare 1000), shook it for a few seconds to get it going and set the correct time. I never manually wind an automatic watch, but simply get it going and then wear it. That's always worked well for me. I put it on the winder for 48 hours and then stopped it. The watch still showed the correct time. I then let it run until it stopped and it ran for about 26 hours. Perfect. The winder is slowly winding the watch. I know an automatic can't be overwound, but I'm sure there's more wear and tear happening if you're spinning the watch so quickly so that it gets fully wound in a matter of hours (like some I've seen) This winder would probably take a bit more than three days to fully wind this movement when it's completely unwound.
The one problem I did have with this winder was being able to use it with watch without a bracelet. I first tried to put in a 46 mm Glycine Stratoforte that's on a rubber dive strap. I like rubber dive straps as they tend to be longer than normal straps. I guess that's so they can be worn over a wet suit, but for me they're a perfect length. However, the end if the strap sticks out a bit, and when the holder is in the winder the strap rubs against the winder. The watch certainly doesn't freely swing back and forth and I couldn't use it. [Ed. note - it may be true that the largest of watch bracelet or strap lengths aren't adept for this type of winder. In fact, such large straps would likely be an issue for most winders. This won't be a problem for the majority of owners though.]


I also tried watches with leather straps and had similar problems. My Glycine Altus is on a narrow, shorter strap than the Stratoforte has. The tail doesn't extend too far, but the curve of the strap sticks out just enough so that there's friction against inside of the winder. I wouldn't want to use it like this as I'm sure it would eventually mark up the strap. Perhaps I could have tightened the strap a bit, but then I'd be using a hole I don't normally use and putting another crease on the strap. I might also run into the problem where the end of the strap would then stick out too far. [Ed. Note - Michael has big wrists!]


If there wasn't such a close fit between the watch holder and the inside of the winder this would be a perfect winder. It's silent, gentle and keeps the watch wound - what's not to like? It certainly holds some of the larger watches being made today, and I have no doubts it would work well for smaller watches that have bracelets sized for smaller wrists than I have. However, there are some watches with straps that will not work. This may be limited to larger watches with longer straps, as I can imagine shorter straps being able to squeeze the pillow more so there's more clearance.
If your watches fit properly in this winder I would certainly recommend it.Thanks Michael for your thoughts. I take this as a positive review, with the qualification that people with very large wrists should consult with Orbita referencing the length of their watch straps before getting this, or any watch winder for that matter.
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Tissot T-Touch 2 Watch
Posted: April 15th, 2010, 1:11am MDT by admin

What do we have here? Doesn't look like a new Tissot T-Touch you say? Well look closer. It is. These are part of the Tissot T-Touch 2 collection of watches, that will secretly replace the original T-Touch models. Actually, the best way to see that they are T-Touch 2 watches is by looking at the LCD screen, and by looking at the back of the watch. I actually didn't have a chance to snap a picture of the back of the watch, but it does say T-Touch 2 back there. The LCD screen is expanded a bit, to look more like that on the T-Touch Expert. The real reason for the new model was because the original T-Touch had some problems with the movement and water resistance. The T-Touch Expert wasn't a replacement because it was bigger and more expensive. So while the T-Touch kept selling well, Tissot was dedicated to releasing a new version that improves upon the original, and resolves the issues that consumers complained about.



How do you get a T-Touch 2? Pretty soon Tissot will start to secretly replace all orders for T-Touch watches with the T-Touch 2. Tissot actually recently rolled out their own online store here at Shop Tissot. I am quite happy about this, because it true that original T-Touch watches had issues, but they have been resolved. Good to know that Tissot is on top of it, and working to remedy things (albeit covertly).
Anything else different about the T-Touch 2? There are likely to be a few small changes here and there. I didn't do a side by side comparison of the two models. Dimensions are the same, still at 42mm wide. There are actually a host of models available with various color straps, and of course that cool bracelet. That 30 meters of water resistance should now be a reliable number. Like I said, because Tissot will be replacing all existing T-Touch watches with the T-Touch 2, price should be exactly the same as the outgoing models. Look for them soon.
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Tudor Heritage 1970 is the Wednesday Watch @motoringexposure
Posted: April 14th, 2010, 2:57pm MDT by Robert-Jan
One of the eye catchers of BaselWorld 2010 is the Tudor Heritage Chrono and not without a reason. Tudor really succeeded in creating a fine timepiece that comes very close to the original 1970 version and still is very up-to-date and wearable. The waiting lists at the Tudor / Rolex dealers must be huge by [...] Related posts:
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Harry Winston Opus X Watch
Posted: April 14th, 2010, 1:59pm MDT by admin
This is the tenth Opus collection watch from Harry Winston since 2001.It is deviously complicated to explain what it does or how it works. Just looking at the Opus X watch makes it seems like a simple matter of having various dials for various pieces of information. What you wouldn't understand is that the entire dial is moving, while the entire dial is moving. Harry Winston calls it a "planetary system." Aside from that the white gold case is pretty sweet, and the overall look, while technical, has a certain pleasantness to it. Don't you agree?
See my article on the Harry Winston Opus X watch at Haute Living here.
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New Harry Winston Ocean Lady Moon Phase
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No Tax At Westime Los Angeles Watch Store In April
Posted: April 14th, 2010, 1:25am MDT by admin

In the month of April 2010, Westime stores will pay your tax for you. I am pretty sure that legally they need to collect tax, but it is on them. This could mean pretty significant discounts on watches. Especially given the caliber of timepieces that Westime carries. Actually, Westime has a good mix of very high-end and more reasonably luxury watches. They have a ton of brands, some of which are: Richard Mille, A. Lange & Sohne, Bell & Ross, Urwerk, Audemars Piguet, Nubeo, MB&F, Corum, and many more mainstream and hard to find independent brands. Click here to find a list of all the brands Westime carries.
The special no tax discount will apply anytime during the rest of April. To get the discount you either need to visit one of the stores (the two locations are below), or order via the phone. The offer even applies to layaway purchases. Thus, you don't even need to be in the area to take advantage of the promotion. Westime is the only place you can get certain watches, or of the only places in the US. So it is worth checking out if you have been holding back waiting for a time like this. There are two LA locations for the boutiques (addresses below). Don't forget that the sale only applied until the end of April, 2010.
Locations:
Westime Los Angeles
10800 West Pico Boulevard, Ste. 197
Los Angeles, CA 90064
Phone: (310) 470-1388
LosAngeles@westime.com
Monday-Saturday, 10am-6pmWestime Beverly Hills
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com
254 North Rodeo Drive
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
Phone: (310) 271-0000
BeverlyHills@westime.com
Monday-Saturday, 10am-6pm
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Squadra Palmero Open Watch
Posted: April 13th, 2010, 1:11am MDT by admin


I fell in love with this watch the second I put it on my wrist. Images formed in my head of how I could dash out with it undetected by Jaeger-LeCoultre's watchful eyes. It takes a really nice watch to conjure up images of grand larceny in your head. I let them keep the timepiece, but thoughts of it stayed in my mind. I really need to own one of these someday. Before you is the Palmero Open version of the Reverso Squadra watch. There are other versions of the piece of course that aren't limited editions like this (gold is limited to 500 pieces, while the steel is not limited). Unlike some of the dual faced versions of the watches (where you flip around the face to display another face on the rear), this version style gives you a view of the movement through a sapphire caseback window.




There are enough differences between the Palmero Open (Palmero) to treat this as a different watch as opposed to just rebranded Reverso Squadra for some sporting event. What is the Palmero Open even? Tennis or golf something? I don't quite care, but the Palmero name sounds catchy. Oh wait, I just checked. Get this, the Palmero Open is some Argentinian Polo match - imagine that. Makes sense with a polo themed watch right? The case is a great size. The standard Reverso (even the larger version) is too small for me. The Squadra is still rectangular, but the dial is much more square. Size is 34.9mm wide by 50mm tall. Nice for this style of watch. You can see how good it looks on the wrist. The top and bottom of the case have angled in lugs for a clean look. The black parts of the case are coated with vulcanized rubber and there is exposed metal with horizontal line texturing on the top and bottom of the case as well as metal around the dial. I love the angular chronograph pusher and crown that go with the look. As I mentioned before, the watch comes in 18 pink gold as well as in steel. The gold version is limited to 500 pieces.
Jaeger's application of the rubber is really nicely done (and sporty!) It further protects the case a bit and has a soft feel to it. I put an image of the standard Reverso Squadra watch for you to compare the look. All the angularity of the look is carried over the case with the chronograph subdial and layout of the Arabic numeral hour markers. More horizontal line texturing in the middle of the dial work in tune with the top and bottom of the case front. The hands are probably what you would call baton hands, and look perfect with the look. All the dial really needs for super sportiness is luminant, which this style lacks, but makes up for in sexy looks.





Inside the watch is Jaeger-LeCoultre in-house made Caliber 754 automatic movement. It has the time, big date (at 12 o'clock), second timezone in GMT format (lower subdial) and a 12 hour chronograph. There are no seconds for the time. It further has a 65 hours of power reserve. You can see the movement when you "reseve" the case. Yea, it is still called "Reverso" for a reason. You never see images of how the case looks when it is opened or flipped around. So I made sure to take images of that for you. Bascially you just pull up on one side of the case, it snaps our being secured by two spring loaded ball bearings, then slide it over and turn it around and lock it back in. Pretty elegant and simple system. The case housing has some nice perlage polish on it (that looks so good in gold). Through the caseback sapphire window you can check out the movement. It has got some really nice decoration and finish. It reminds of me IWC, but then again IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre are sort of sister brands (both under Richemont), so that makes sense. They will get upset with me however if I don't mention that they are totally separate companies that do their "own thing."
Strap on the watch is a fabric style with a nice lining that matches the sport them of the timepiece. I like it better than the rubber of the standard Reverso Squadra. The Reverso Squadra Palmero is a real kick-ass timepiece with a solid movement, great looks, and a heritage that will keep people who know about watches envious. Top choice is in gold as it looks great with the black, but both are pieces worth lusting over and saving up for. Price is $10,950 in steel and $21,550 in rose gold.
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Equipe Watches: Commercial For New Brand
Posted: April 12th, 2010, 2:30pm MDT by admin
New watch brand Equipe get's a commercial. Where it will run I am not sure - on YouTube at the very least. The brand has a number of automotive inspired watches with a "gear-head" fashion twist. Some interesting designs. Check em out if you like what you see.
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Casio Pathfinder PAG110C-3 Go Green Watch Review
Posted: April 12th, 2010, 1:18am MDT by admin

Casio is proud of this new mean and green Casio Pathfinder PAG110C-3 watch intent on reminding you that Casio Pathfinder watches are green friendly. In celebration of Earth Day, the watch comes with special recycled packaging, and I first discussed the this Casio Go-Green Pathfinder watch here. That is pretty much it for the special eco-friendly features unique to this watch. Why? Because as far as Casio is concerned, the Pathfinder series is green enough as it is. So I suppose that is a better thing given that many of their watches, not just one, is comparatively eco-friendly. Much of this has to do with the solar (or any light) charging Casio quartz movement in the watch the negates the need for regular battery changes. And as you can imagine, batteries can't really be recycled, so they contribute to waste. So without even really trying, Casio makes a lot of green watches as a side effect of having cool solar powered movements.
Less chemical rich batteries in our environment is certainly a good thing, but so are cool watches. For me, the reason this Casio Pathfinder watch stands out is because of the color. It isn't just a green watch, it is a cool green watch. Three shades of green, metal, plastic, and a cool technical look make this Casio watch about as close as an adult can come to playing with a fun toy. Well I suppose any adult can play with toys, but are you gonna do it in public, sans the guise of spending time with kids? In my opinion this colorful creation looks like a prop out of a sci-fi universe that many of us grew up in. Not only does the watch have a neat style, but it does all sorts of cool things (just like in the movie!). Wearing it and using it pretty much make me forget that legions of Pathfinder watches before this did the same thing.



Amazing what a visual redo can do to one's perception. The light weight Pathfinder watch never looked so fresh. All of its many features right at your finger tips, and the added point that people will notice this item on your wrist much more. When wearing the watch I pretty much think about Star Wars, specially Endor. What better scene than a forest battle for a green colored watch? Tell me that this gadget wouldn't have worked well on the wrists of the Endor Forest Rangers (aka, Endor Rebel Troopers). See the included images and video. This watch would have fit in well, given of course that it existed 30 years ago... Yes, nerdy/geeky it is, but a lot of 'watch love' is about emotion. And if wearing a watch and thinking about a movie series I enjoy makes me happy about wearing the watch - everyone is happy.
Size and features of the PAG110C-3 are pretty much standard mid-range Pathfinder specs. Given the "niche" appeal of the green color, Casio didn't want to go out and throw in all the bells & whistles into this watch. As such, there are a few features you might want that are missing in this model, that you will have to finder in other Casio Pathfinder models. One example is being able to sync the watch with the atomic clock nearby via radio signals. The higher-end Pathfinder watches have this. Also, most of the newer Pathfinder models have some "plus" feature. Such as all the standard functions plus a tide chart for example. The Go Green watch has no lack of features, but won't beep happily when it is Earth Day or anything. It has the time, perpetual calendar, world time, alarms, stopwatch, countdown timer, compass, barometer, thermometer, barometer, and solar power generation with battery charge indicator. The backlight has a the auto illumination function as well, which is always cool (you can set the watch to have the backlight activate when you tilt your wrist toward you). So as you can see, each Pathfinder watch is pretty full featured as it is.

The metal bezel around the dial looks good, and Casio chose a green tinted LCD screen. The solar panel ring sits around the dial. The pushers are all easy to spot and push around the case, and the watch is comfortable to wear on the wrist. The resin strap has two metal plates on it which look nice. Strap is standard resin in green. Putting on the strap is a little tricky given the friction that occurs when the excess strap goes through the loops, but it is not a bit deal. I've mentioned the styling a few times. It isn't radically different than on most Pathfinder watches, but the light color really brings out the detail more. So you can see all the little areas the Casio designers wanted you to notice.
If you like the color of the watch, enjoy the features, or are a Casio fan, the Pathfinder PAG110C-3 is a decent addition to your collection. Especially if you find yourself without a proper watch to wear on St. Patrick's day. While not strictly a limited edition, I feel that the watch will have a limited production given that it is as special watch. So don't wait too long to get one. Price is $250 for the watch, and it is exclusively available on Amazon.com.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com
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The Rolex GMT-Master 1675
Posted: April 11th, 2010, 9:03am MDT by Robert-Jan
One of my favorite Rolex watches is the GMT-Master. With the introduction of the 116710LN and 116713LN models, I feel that the classic GMT-Master has been phased out by Rolex. The new updated model with its bulky lugs and ceramic bezel surely is a nice timepiece and probably suits all modern requirements, but it cleary [...] Related posts:
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Roger Dubuis 43mm Golden Square Watch – Available On James List
Posted: April 11th, 2010, 1:21am MDT by admin

Looking at the past a bit I want to bring your attention to the Roger Dubuis Golden Square. Not the contemporary model, but the one from a few years ago. In a 43mm wide square case, the watch screamed luxury in a way few other watches have. Bold and loud, the watch still in good taste. People that wear one suddenly feel a bit more important, but you aren't sure why. In fact, I believe the watch may still be in production, even though there are newer Golden Square watches available. While the Golden Square came with Roman or Arabic numerals, I think the Roman numeral version is the king when it comes to appearances. The Arabic numeral version is arguably easier to read, but doesn't have as impressive a face.
In some respects the watch looks like a (more) metrosexual Cartier. The blued steel hands (gold in at least some of the pieces0 are larger than you might expect and stylized just a bit less than Louis the XIV's wardrobe. The dial is rich with artistic merit, and could never be referred to as busy or too complex. Though it is a "full dial." There is a central ring to help with telling the time. The tapered Roman numerals look sharp, and sexy. Blown up more than Cartier's versions.Adding to the legibility and poise of the watch is a sapphire crystal that has been coated with AR on both sides.


An interesting touch on most Roger Dubuis Gold Square models was the perforated lizard strap. It felt like a compliment to kinky driving gloves. They fit nicely on demure lugs with exposed screws on the sides. The Golden Square case is actually quiet curved to fit over one's wrist nicely. The rear of the watch has a sapphire crystal display back in the center to see the movement. This is good because Roger Dubuis is known to give watches very nicely decorated movements, the one in the Golden Square is an automatic of course. If the 43mm wide case size is too large for you, less "bold" sizes are available. There is a 40mm wide version, 37mm wide version, as well as a much smaller 34mm wide version.


Dial choices on these Golden Square models were plentiful. From light to dark tones, dials could even have mother-of-pearl, diamonds, or engraved centers. On each face though, the sharp angles of the hour numerals and the large hands stand out the most. Just the time not enough for you? Roger Dubuis did, and continues to release Golden Square watches with a variety of complications. There are calendars, chronographs, and a unique dual timezone model that is styled like a regulator. For older models, I recommend the basic three hand models as some of Roger Dubuis's older movements with additional complications sometimes had issues. If you are getting a new Roger Dubuis watch, this isn't an issue anymore after Richemont Group too them over and improved their movement production arm.
The watch wouldn't be called the "Golden Square" if it wasn't actually a golden square. The versions I have come across have cases either in 18k rose, yellow, or white gold. Prices for these watches retailed to levels above $40,000. On James List there is a version in rose gold with a diamond decorated inner dial for just under $25,000.
See the Roger Dubuis 43mm Golden Square watch available on James List here.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.comRelated posts:
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HourTime Show Watch Podcast Episode 19
Posted: April 10th, 2010, 1:39pm MDT by admin
We talk about a few bad developments at Baselworld 2010 (not all new watches are good!) Then, we cut into an interview that John had with the founder of RGM watches - the only mechanical watch maker in America that makes their own movements.
Listen to HourTime Show watch podcast episode 19 here.
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Ulli Kampelmann’s Hilariously Ugly Watches
Posted: April 10th, 2010, 1:56am MDT by admin

I am probably losing a load of karma points for this article. Part of me feels bad because I am in a sense directly criticizing artist Ulli Kampelmann, though I mean nothing personal. I just find her entire collection of watches so bad looking, and in just a funny way, that I had to show them off. I am sure her other types of art work are better. I don't actually need to say much, because the hilarity sort of speaks for itself. They looks like cliche 80's satire, with a healthy serving of bad taste, and framed by expensive materials such as gold and diamonds. What is even funnier are the images placed with the watches in the little marketing shots on the Ulli Kampelmann site (which you should totally visit if you are in a bad mood as it will make you smile with laughter, I promise).


She has a combination of men's and women's watches. The one hideous cream of the crop is the "Jeans Pocket" watch (also in pocket watch form!). The watches are in steel or rose gold plated with a variety of diamonds and other gems for decoration. Straps are high quality materials such as alligator or leather, and the dials are mostly mother-of-pearl or otherwise. So much variety, and each more fugly than the next. Check out the "lifestyle" pick of the guy with the laptop circa 1993, "strong & clever" like a guy in banana yellow shorts and a pink fanny pack.
These images remind me of those non-sequitur motivational posters that were common in the 90's that showed up in offices to replace "fake" office art that is meant to just take up white wall space. These days such posters are mostly gone, again replaced by framed patterns on the wall that look about as bad as the fabric on bus seats designed to hide stains. I think Ulli Kampelmann might have designed a few of those.

Ulli spent some healthy time with a thesaurus when she came up with these slogan gems. What are the perfect words to describe this creature from the "Blue Lagoon?" Oh yea! "Dark and mysterious." So much better sounding that what she was thinking which was "uninspired scrap metal in black, with blue intestinal lining dial."


Looking at the Mandevilla Dance watch I cringe with pain. Why? Because I am reminded of what the tetanus shot will feel like after I cut myself handling this piece of rusty metal that used to be a fishing lure gone terribly wrong.


By the way, what the hell does "Jean Pocket. Wanted!" even mean? That isn't even a phrase. But apparently, it is "stylish and sassy." Stylish like wearing the worst fashion mistakes, a combination of the 1980s and 1990s birthed while looking at yourself in the mirror on LSD.
Inside these watches is the same quartz movement over and over, and the hands have that "drug-store, Chinese Timex rip-off" look of quality to them. The funniest part of all is that Ulli takes herself so seriously! I don't think anyone in her life has had the balls to tell her that this crap is embarrassingly bad. Ulli is probably a really nice person, but these watches just don't have what it takes to be taken seriously. So just laugh.
Images here are are from Ulli Kampelmann's website and owned by her, used here for satire or news purposes only.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com
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Bell & Ross Instrument BR03-92 Military Ceramic Watch
Posted: April 9th, 2010, 1:04am MDT by admin

I wanted to double up on my coverage of nice, (relatively, in the luxury watch sense) affordable military style watches that were unveiled at Baselworld 2010. I just spoke about the Tag Heuer Formula i Khaki that has a green military strap and dial. Now I would like to share with you the new Bell & Ross BR03-92 Military Ceramic watch. Put in the BR03 case which is 42mm wide, the watch is in a matte finished ceramic in green. Cool! The olive drab green color of the case is lighter than the dark green of the dial. The Bell & Ross BR01/BR03 dial is based on military fonts and a high legibility style - so it looks right at home. The label of "Military Type" is on the dial of the watch in the version I sampled, but not in the marketing image. Hard to say what will be in the final version.
The ceramic that Bell & Ross uses feels nice in the hand, and has the same level of detail and angle crispness that metal has. The case still has the metal screws that the collection is known for. There might be small differences between the production model and the one I am wearing in the images. For instances, the marketing images have screws on the dial of the watch as well as on the case, but the watch I checked out had no screws on the dial. So we will see what ends up in stores.




For me this Khaki ceramic case and military feel to the watch are welcome. The collection has been begging for it, and it feels just right. Bell & Ross has been focusing a lot on the BR03 versus larger BR01 case as of late. The popularity of the collection has prompted more people to demand smaller, more reasonable styles. Plus, service people prefer watches that aren't as much "in the way."
The case of course has a sapphire crystal, and is water resistant to 100 meters. Inside the watch is an automatic ETA 2892 movement. Pretty much everything you would expect from a standard Bell & Ross BR03-92 watch, but now in green and with a ceramic case. The watch will come with either a gray commando style rubber strap, or a matching green synthetic fabric (nylon I guess) Velcro strap. The AR coating on the crystal makes the dial really easy to read, and I love the two green tones on the dial (of course there is lume). A good look, and really fits with the "war games" theme that revolved around in my mind as I wore this watch. If anybody out there knows a stylist, please tell them about this watch so it can show up in the next Hollywood military movie with great special effects and a preachy plot. I really want to see Mr. Military Ceramic in action. The watch should be in stores in the next few months.
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com
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Tag Heuer Formula 1 Khaki Watch
Posted: April 8th, 2010, 1:05am MDT by admin

2010 saw some sleeper introductions from Tag Heuer that are going to be big hits. Items like their Pendulum concept watch that has no hairspring (or changes for sale to the public anytime soon) stole a lot of the attention, but here is one a few good looking Tag Heuer watches to look forward to this year. Over the last few years Tag Heuer has revamped its famous Formula One collection of watches. I predicted that the Tag Heuer Formula 1 Grande Date watch from last year was going to be a bit hit, and it was. For 2010 the Grande Date models get some quite upgrades, and the new model is this army green Formula 1 Khaki.
The watch is a return to the standard three-hand look the collection is popular for, though the subsidiary seconds Grande Date model was pretty kick-ass. The dial is an olive drab green color, with a closely matching green rubber strap. There is also a brand new style of steel bracelet available with a diver's extension. Tag Heuer puts the watch in a 41mm wide steel case with black coated titanium carbide metal (not plastic) rotating diver's style bezel. The mixture of green, steel tone, black, and white make for a very masculine and functional design. The military look of the watch is done on purpose and is a welcome new character for the collection. The Formula 1 date is back as Tag Heuer's entry level work-horse watch. Inside of the 200 meters water resistance case is a Swiss quartz movement.



Like all Formula 1 watches the Khaki is very legible, thanks to a clever hand and indicator design. The dial also has a lot of luminant on it for night viewing. Since the new style of Formula 1 watch has come out, I have appreciated the dimensions of the case as well as the really nice bezel. Tag Heuer says the black coating The black tone extends to the crown guards as well as the large crown itself (which is also in titanium carbide like the bezel). The crystal is sapphire.
Tag Heuer did a nice job with the rubber strap giving it deep vertical grooves and some nice branding. You might find the strap cheesy at first, but it looks good on the wrist and is nice to the touch. Really not much else I can say about this piece. Price is $900 for the watch on either the rubber strap or steel bracelet - with the street price being a bit less I am sure. No doubt that many people will be getting one of these when they are out soon.
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Jack Shephard’s Porsche Design Watch On Lost
Posted: April 7th, 2010, 2:37am MDT by admin

Regular readers of mine know that I get a kick out of spotting watches in TV shows and movies. A regular viewer of Lost, I have always been curious to know what watch was being worn by Matthew Fox's character Jack Shephard. Of course, while on the island he does not wear a watch, but back in civilization in Los Angeles, he is always seen the watch watch. The show producers are loathe to give the watch much camera time. In fact, the only watch that was given attention was the Rolex Daytona that Jin was carrying as a business gift in season 1. But I digress. A few episodes ago (in the final season, maybe episode 3 or so) I was caught off guard as the camera gives Jack's wrist a closeup as he checks the time. Why the chronograph was running in the shot I don't know, but that glimpse was enough for me to spot the brand - Porsche Design.
I still didn't know what model it was though. Searching online I couldn't find images of it, nor did I know the name of the piece. Though it was clear that it was a bit of an older model, and had a quartz movement. Then something really random happened. I was visiting Switzerland and was speaking with a fellow watch writer. Clearly noticing his watch, I realized that he was wearing the precise Porsche Design watch that was in the show. How random right? Thomas (I will spare him by not giving his full name) was clearly perturbed when I asked if I could photograph the watch he had been wearing for many years. But he let me (I don't think I gave him much choice), and I finally had another missing piece of the puzzle. I still didn't know the name of the watch though, but having images of it helped me. A little more Googling and I finally learned the name and model of the watch. Lost's Jack wears a Porsche Design Dashboard 6600.41 watch. It is in steel and about 38mm wide with a sapphire crystal and a Swiss quartz chronograph movement. Finally, the super watch nerd within me has yet another watch mystery solved.



Is this a personal watch of Matthew Fox, or just something that a wardrobe person in the show picked out? Likely the latter, but the reason this watch from the 1990s was picked for his character will remain a mystery. The funny thing is, that someone else out there may very well have had this same question and answered it online already. I was so interested in personally solving this riddle, that I never even bothered to Google "Jack Shephard's watch on Lost." Part of this was about being able to find the answer for myself. Though hopefully I am doing a small service to watch and Lost lovers out there.
You can still find these Porsche Design ref. 6600.41 watches out there online. Most all used versions for under $1000. Now I need to find another watch mystery to solve...
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H. Moser & Cie Perpetual 1 Watch
Posted: April 6th, 2010, 4:00am MDT by admin

This watch isn't exactly new but recently made some headlines by winning the prestigious Golden Unruh (golden balance) award by one of Germany's top watch magazines as voted by the public. You can see how people could like this watch. It is very pretty, and as I will discuss, it has some awesome mechanics behind it. The design is pretty classic, but has a polished sense of refinement that makes it a bit sexy, and very refined. Part of this is due to the fat leaf style hands that look nice against the thin and demure baton hour markers.
H. Moser & Cie is perhaps a brand you haven't heard of before. They are a smaller company, but I have been noticing more and more advertising from them - so they are getting orders or funding from somewhere. Actually, I understand that H. Moser is one of the people that helped make IWC what it is. The connection between IWC and Moser isn't exactly great these days as I understand it. It is true that as a smaller brand with a very complex watch - quality control issues are going to be of concern. At the same time, given the popularity of the piece, combined with the fact that it has been around for a few years, it is likely that H. Moser & Cie has been able to work some of the kinks out of the mechanism. The movement is all in-house made.

The unique manually wound HMC341 movement has a power reserve of 7 days, a power reserve indicator on the dial, and a perpetual calendar. Have you ever seen a more neatly integrated perpetual calendar mechanism before? Plus, the perpetual calendar is really complex because it can be set forwards and backwards. I also think that you have no mechanical penalties for adjusting the calendar anytime of day. The beautifully designed face has two large leaf-shaped hands and a smaller center arrow hand. That smaller hand is a month indicator (using the hours markers to indicate the 12 months). Then you have a power reserve indicator balanced out by the date on the opposite end. While the date is not a "big date," the disc has larger font so it looks like one almost. Then you have a large subsidiary seconds dial on the face. Just marvelous. On the rear of the watch you have a leap year indicator on the movement. That is it, how cool? A fully functional perpetual calendar that is barely noticeable.


The case is very interesting in design. Lots of nice organic curves. Pretty medium in size at just under 41mm in width. Available in white or rose gold, and in platinum. A few dial colors are available as well. It looks great in all of them in my opinion. Crystals are of course sapphire, and the case is water resistant to 30 meters. The straps are alligator. While the price for the platinum version is more, the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual 1 watch costs about 22,000 euros. Really going to be a winner for lots of people. And now a few years after its release, some of the apparent technical issues have been more or less smoothed out. I look forward to checking one out.
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Hublot King Power Tourbillon Manufacture Watch
Posted: April 5th, 2010, 8:31pm MDT by admin
Over at Haute Living I wrote about this interesting new all black Hublot watch - now with an in-house made Tourbillon movement (yay for Hublot "adopting" much of BNB Concept). Pretty interesting and about $160,000.
See my Hublot King Power Tourbillon Manufacture watch article at Haute Lving here.
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Hublot Big Bang King All Black and Blue
US $13,499.00

Hublot SuperB Chronograph Automatic Watch 1926.105.1
US $3,025.00

Hublot Big Bang 44mm Chrono Blk Dial Diamond Bez
US $11,999.00

Hublot Big Bang Rose Gold Gents Watch 341.PX.130.RX
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NEW Hublot Regulateur, 18k Yellow Gold 39mm watch.
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Hublot 18K solid yellow gold MDM 32mm mens Watch 49 grm
US $1,999.00
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